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2001 - 2003 Acura MDX
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Color | Black |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S3 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2001 - 2003 | Acura MDX | — |
The 01 - 03 Acura MDX -- 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW11 (Part #HBCW11) fits 2001-2003 Acura MDX models. The 2003 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 01 - 03 Acura MDX -- 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW11 (Part #HBCW11) fits the following vehicles: 2001-2003 Acura MDX. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 01 - 03 Acura MDX -- 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW11 (Part #HBCW11) is designed to fit the 2001-2003 Acura MDX.
The 01 - 03 Acura MDX -- 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW11 (Part #HBCW11) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, CURT part 13423 is designed for the Acura RDX. However, the manual does not specify which model years are compatible. Contact CURT technical support at 1-877-287-8634 or visit www.curtmfg.com to confirm your specific year and trim level.
The manual notes that the hitch may interfere with the functionality of the liftgate sensor. If your vehicle has a power liftgate or liftgate sensor, test the liftgate operation after installation to confirm it functions correctly. If interference occurs, contact CURT technical support at 1-877-287-8634.
The hitch includes 4 M12×1.25 hex cap screws (HHCS), class 8.8, zinc-plated (part 10-10529) and 4 S-CON washers, 1/2 inch, zinc-plated (part 30-00149). All fasteners are torqued to 60 ft-lbs during installation. The hitch mounts to existing weld nuts on both frame rails.
You will need: ratchet, 19mm socket, exhaust removal pliers, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, prybar, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential to achieve the required 60 ft-lbs torque specification on all M12 fasteners.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to lower the spare tire using the vehicle's lowering tools and mechanism before installing the hitch. Consult your Acura RDX owner manual for the specific procedure. The spare tire is reinstalled in its original position after the hitch is secured.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to lower the exhaust by removing the two rearmost rubber exhaust isolators from the frame-mounted hangers. Support the exhaust to prevent damage during this process. The exhaust is reinstalled in its original position after the hitch is secured.
No. The CURT 13423 requires no drilling. The hitch mounts directly to existing weld nuts on both the driver and passenger frame rails.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Use a calibrated torque wrench to achieve this specification. This is performed in step 4 of the installation process.
Periodically check the hitch to ensure that all fasteners remain tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but regular inspection is recommended, especially after the first few towing cycles.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 13423 has a specified gross load capacity, but your Acura RDX's factory towing limit is the controlling factor. Consult your vehicle owner manual for the maximum towing capacity.
Yes, the CURT 13423 is designed for the Acura RDX. Confirm your specific model year with CURT at 1-877-287-8634. The hitch may interfere with the liftgate sensor.
No drilling is required. The hitch mounts directly to existing weld nuts on both frame rails.
You need a ratchet, 19mm socket, exhaust removal pliers, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, prybar, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential for the 60 ft-lbs fastener specification.
Yes. You must lower the spare tire and the exhaust (by removing the two rearmost rubber isolators) before raising the hitch into position. Both are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs using a calibrated torque wrench.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The hitch has a specified gross load capacity; consult your Acura RDX owner manual for the vehicle's maximum towing limit.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The Curt 56509 is a powered converter lead wiring harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts factory vehicle lighting signals to trailer lighting signals via a 4-flat connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with proper lighting control. The system includes a powered converter module that processes turn, brake, and taillight signals from your vehicle's electrical system.
The Curt 56509 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models, or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. The Curt 56509 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Using it on a 24-volt system or a positive ground system will damage the converter and void the warranty.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, wire cutter, wire stripper, crimping tool, panel trim removal tool, large Phillips screwdriver, small Phillips screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver, and an extension. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes a powered converter module, a custom wiring harness with fuse holder, a 10-amp fuse, cable ties, a 4-flat dust cover, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, a ring terminal for the ground wire, a screw for ground attachment, and a white ground wire. The manual does not specify all individual hardware quantities.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Secure this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect it only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the system.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. This rating is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. You must open the rear hatch and pull the levers on the passenger and driver-side rear walls to allow the seats to fold forward. Then remove the floorboard to gain access to the cargo tray, which must be removed to access the installation area.
The converter module is mounted to the factory electrical module located left of the white housing at the inside of the driver-side rear wheel well. Use the provided double-sided tape to secure the converter to the factory module.
Route the white ground wire down to the floor and under the side wall panel to the area under the cargo tray. Use a 10mm socket to loosen the factory ground bolt, install the custom wiring harness ground to this bolt, and tighten it securely.
Route the 4-flat connector with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store the connector in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire attachment. You may need to drill a 3/32" hole in the vehicle body if an existing screw hole is not available for the ring terminal of the white ground wire. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under the surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
No permanent modifications are required. You will use a panel trim removal tool to loosen and remove interior trim panels (threshold, cargo tray, and side wall trim) to access the installation area, but these are reinstalled after installation is complete.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. The kit includes a fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire routed to the vehicle battery. Route this wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter output wires are: Green for right turn signal, Red for brake, Yellow for left turn signal, and Brown for taillight. These connect to the 4-flat trailer connector. The power lead uses a black wire for positive battery connection and a white wire for ground.
Route the 12 GA black power wire to the vehicle battery location, avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal to connect the black wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before making this connection. Install the 10-amp fuse in the fuse holder after all other steps are complete.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole for the screw. Before drilling, check for items behind or under the surface. The ground wire should be routed down to the floor and under the side wall panel to the area under the cargo tray, where it connects to the factory ground bolt.
Locate the white housing at the inside of the driver-side rear wheel well. Install the fuse into the custom harness and plug the harness into this white housing. This connects the converter to the vehicle's factory lighting signals.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a '+' symbol), as this can cause a short circuit, sparks, and electrical shock. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items behind or under surfaces to avoid personal injury or property damage. Route the power wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse to protect the vehicle's electrical system and prevent damage to the converter.
After installation is complete, test for proper function by using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. Verify that all lighting signals (turn signals, brake lights, and taillights) function correctly through the 4-flat connector.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including the cargo tray, threshold, trim panels, and floorboard. Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify inspection intervals beyond 'periodic.' Check the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for more information on recommended maintenance schedules.
The Curt 56509 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle make, model, and year using a fitment database or by contacting Curt Manufacturing before purchasing.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power wire routed to the battery. Route it carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The manual does not specify a maximum towing capacity. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for towing capacity information.
Verify that the negative battery terminal is reconnected after installation. Check that the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. Confirm that the black power wire is securely connected to the positive (+) battery terminal using the ring terminal. Verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle body and that the factory ground bolt is tight. If the fuse is blown, do not reinstall it until the cause of the overload is identified and corrected.
Verify that the custom harness is fully plugged into the white housing at the inside of the driver-side rear wheel well. Confirm that the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. Check that all wires are securely connected and that there is no visible damage. Test the system using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer. If lights still do not function, verify that the vehicle's factory lighting signals are working correctly.
Immediately disconnect the negative battery terminal. Do not reconnect the power wire. Check that no tools are laying across the positive battery terminal, as this can cause a short circuit. Verify that the black power wire is not damaged and that the ring terminal is properly crimped and securely connected to the positive (+) battery terminal. Do not proceed with installation until the cause is identified and corrected. If the issue persists, contact Curt Manufacturing for assistance.
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