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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.0 Amps |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2001 - 2005 | Volkswagen Jetta | Wagon |
The 01-05 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2501 (Part #HBCW2501) fits 2001-2005 Volkswagen Jetta models. The 2005 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 01-05 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2501 (Part #HBCW2501) is designed to fit the 2001-2005 Volkswagen Jetta.
The 01-05 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2501 (Part #HBCW2501) fits the following vehicles: 2001-2005 Volkswagen Jetta. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 01-05 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2501 (Part #HBCW2501) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the CURT 11234 is designed for Volkswagen Passat Sedan models from 2012 to present. Confirm your vehicle matches this specification before purchasing.
The CURT 11234 is rated for a maximum of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on the 18050 straps.
The CURT 11234 is designed for use with ballmount #D-55001 or #45501. Euro mount options are available: #45571 (1-7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball). Consult CURT or your installer for specific compatibility with your trailer coupler.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing mounting points on the vehicle's bumper beam supports and drain holes in the trunk pan.
Yes, fascia trimming is required. You must mark and trim the rear plastic fascia using the Fascia Trim Diagram provided. Dimensions are approximate (2.50 in and 4.75 in from the center of the vehicle), so confirm fit prior to trimming. If present, the underbody panel must also be trimmed using the Underbody Trim Diagram (5.50 in from center).
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" socket, 10mm socket, 9" extension, T-15 and T-25 Torx bits, rotary cutting tool, masking tape, tape measure, silicone caulk, and safety glasses. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
The kit includes: 2× carriage bolts 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/2" (part 10-10287), 4× hex cap screws 1/2-13 UNC 5-1/2" (part 10-10477), 2× serrated flange nuts 1/2-13 UNC (part 20-00062), 4× conical toothed washers 1/2" (part 30-00149), 2× 0.250" spacer plates (part CM-SP62), and 2× nut plate weldments (part 11234-NPWA).
You must remove: the 3 fascia screws and clips holding the rear plastic fascia (retain 2 for reinstallation, return 1 to owner), the spare tire from inside the trunk, and the 2 rearmost rubber drain plugs from the bottom of the trunk pan (return to owner). If present, also remove the underbody panel by removing 5 screws and 5 plastic nuts (save for reinstallation).
1. Remove fascia screws, clips, spare tire, and drain plugs. 2. Mark and trim rear fascia and underbody panel as needed. 3. Flex fascia and place nut plates on bumper beam supports. 4. Seal drain holes with silicone caulk. 5. Raise hitch into position, aligning slots with nut plate holes. 6. Loosely secure with 1/2-13 x 5" hex bolts and washers. 7. Insert spacers and 1/2-13 x 1-1/2" carriage bolts in drain holes, secure from below with flange nuts. 8. Torque all fasteners. 9. Return spare tire and reinstall fascia screws and underbody panel.
Torque all 1/2" x 1-1/2" hardware (carriage bolts at drain holes) to 110 ft-lbs. Torque all 1/2" x 5-1/2" hardware (hex cap screws at nut plates) to 75 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Loosely secure the hitch into position first using the 1/2-13 x 5" hex bolts and washers. After inserting the spacers and carriage bolts at the drain holes, torque all fasteners in the final step: 1/2" x 1-1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and 1/2" x 5-1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs.
The drain holes in the trunk pan are sealed with silicone caulk before inserting the spacer plates and carriage bolts. This prevents water intrusion into the trunk area after the drain plugs are replaced with the hitch fasteners.
After installation, periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Verify that the hitch is properly aligned and that the fascia and underbody panel are securely reinstalled. Check that the spare tire is returned to the trunk.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection before towing is recommended.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. Using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, the CURT 11234 is designed for Volkswagen Passat Sedan models from 2012 to present.
Maximum 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, drilling is not required. Fascia trimming is required.
Ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" and 10mm sockets, 9" extension, T-15 and T-25 Torx bits, rotary cutting tool, masking tape, tape measure, silicone caulk, and safety glasses.
Torque 1/2" x 1-1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and 1/2" x 5-1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
Non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56440 is a powered converter lead designed to convert a vehicle's factory taillight wiring into a trailer lighting connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with standard lighting to a passenger car that does not have factory trailer wiring. The converter processes the vehicle's existing taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and tail/running lights) and outputs them through a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
The CURT 56440 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not provide a specific list of makes, models, or years. Consult the CURT fitment database or contact CURT directly to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. The CURT 56440 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
You will need: Allen wrench #3, wire crimper, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, and a cutting tool. You may also need a drill with a 3/32" bit if you need to create a new grounding point on the vehicle frame.
The kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a ground screw, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing loose wires, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Look up the battery location in your vehicle's owner's manual. Be sure to fasten the disconnected wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal after all other installation steps are complete.
Open the vehicle trunk and remove all trunk floor coverings and storage trays. This provides access to the interior felt liners and taillight wiring harness connectors needed for installation.
The black converter box mounts inside the vehicle on a flat spot near the taillight, using the provided double-sided tape. The box must be mounted in a protected area. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
Remove the interior side felt liner to access the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Route the custom wiring harness end with the green wire down behind the interior side felt liner and out to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panel. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the last page of the manual. When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable grounding point does not already exist on the vehicle frame near the converter box. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint before drilling. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The installation uses double-sided tape to mount the converter box and does not require permanent modifications to the vehicle structure. However, you may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if no existing fastener is available. The interior trim panels are removed but not modified and are reinstalled after installation.
Signal circuits (left turn and right turn): 5.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 7.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The power wire is 12 gauge (12 GA) or larger. Route the 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The wiring harness uses the following colors: Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Brown = Tail/Running lights. The custom wiring harness has a yellow wire end for the driver side and a green wire end for the passenger side. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Connect the ring terminal to the positive battery (+) terminal. Install the provided fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse after all other installation steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse.
Locate a grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no existing fastener is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the last page of the manual. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The maximum fuse rating is 15 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Ensure the converter box is mounted in a protected area to prevent overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including trunk floor coverings, storage trays, interior felt liners, and scuff panels. Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning of installation. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat connector and dust cover regularly to ensure they are clean and free from corrosion.
The CURT 56440 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Consult the CURT fitment database or contact CURT directly to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle make, model, and year before purchasing.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required. You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable grounding point does not already exist on the vehicle frame near the converter box. Check for hidden items before drilling.
The power wire is 12 gauge (12 GA) or larger. Route it from the converter to the vehicle battery positive terminal using a ring terminal and 15-amp fuse.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Ensure the area is free from rust, dirt, and paint before securing fasteners.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all wires and connections are secure and free from damage.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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