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| Mount Location | Rear |
| 1775 | No |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Class | III |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 150 LBS |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 1,500 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps Per Circuit |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2002 - 2006 | Nissan Altima | Sedan |
Yes, the 02-06 Nissan Altima Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2011 (Part #HBCW2011) is designed to fit the 2002-2006 Nissan Altima.
The 02-06 Nissan Altima Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2011 (Part #HBCW2011) fits the following vehicles: 2002-2006 Nissan Altima. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 02-06 Nissan Altima Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2011 (Part #HBCW2011) fits 2002-2006 Nissan Altima models. The 2006 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 02-06 Nissan Altima Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2011 (Part #HBCW2011) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
Part 56511 is designed for passenger cars with factory taillight connectors located behind the driver and passenger side taillight housings outside the trunk (P1 and P2 locations). Before purchasing, verify your vehicle has accessible taillight connectors at these locations. If your vehicle's taillight connectors are located inside the trunk (P3/P4) or behind the bumper (P5/P6/P7), this product may not be compatible. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a Curt representative to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
The product has the following electrical ratings: signal circuits (turn signals) are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Required tools are: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, wire cutter, wire stripper, wire crimp tool, panel trim removal tool, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required. You will also need a fish wire or equivalent (such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) to route the harness through blind holes in the vehicle.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Locate the battery under the hood on the passenger side, disconnect the negative terminal, and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and the fuse has been installed.
Open the hatch and locate the taillight trim covers. Use a panel trim tool to loosen the trim cover. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two taillight fasteners. Remove the taillight by pulling out at an angle to the rear and side of the vehicle. Repeat this process on the other side. Do not disconnect the connector at the taillight itself; instead, locate the other connector just below the taillight connector and separate it from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Fish wiring is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert a fish wire (which can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Ensure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before inserting it.
Starting below the bumper, remove nine push fasteners securing the rear bumper trim. At the opening on the side of the driver-side bumper cover, route the fish wire down the bumper cover and locate it under the bumper cover at the rear of the vehicle. Locate the harness with the yellow wire and pull it up to the driver-side factory taillight harness, then attach the mating connectors. Route the green wire along the rear bumper to the passenger side and repeat the process with the green wire on the passenger side.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Mounting the box in a protected area is critical; failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA wire or larger to route from the vehicle battery to the converter. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
The converter harness uses the following wire colors: green for right turn signal, red for brake, yellow for left turn signal, and brown for taillight. These wires connect to the factory taillight connectors at the P1 and P2 locations.
When in use, route the 4-flat with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual emphasizes that all steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
The converter system is designed to be used only on 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Verify your vehicle has this type of electrical system before installation.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. When routing the power wire to the battery, take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
The 56511 is designed for passenger cars with factory taillight connectors at P1 and P2 locations (behind driver and passenger side taillight housings, outside the trunk). Verify your vehicle has connectors at these locations before purchasing.
You need a ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, wire cutter, wire stripper, wire crimp tool, panel trim removal tool, electrical tape, and a fish wire (or equivalent like a wire hanger). Cable ties and double-sided tape are provided.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Drilling is required only if no existing screw or bolt is available for the ground wire connection. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free area. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's lamp load rating.
Use 12 GA wire or larger from the vehicle battery to the converter. The connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse, installed after all other steps are complete.
The 56511 is designed for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems only. Verify your vehicle has this system before installation.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer to verify proper operation.
The gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity is 1,500 lbs. and the tongue weight (TW) capacity is 150 lbs.
The kit includes one trailer hitch, four M12 hex bolts, and four 1/2" conical-toothed washers.
Required tools are: ratchet, flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket, 19mm socket, 3" socket extension, tape, tape measure, torque wrench, and a rotary tool. A full tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes, bumper fascia trimming is required. The manual includes a trim diagram showing 2-1/2" and 3-1/4" measurements, center aligned, for reference during trimming.
Yes, temporary underbody panel removal is required. In Step 1, remove the underbody panel from the rear of the vehicle by removing eleven push fasteners and three nuts using a 10mm socket with 3" extension. The panel is reinstalled after the hitch is secured in Step 3.
Torque all M12 hex bolts to 86 ft-lbs.
The conical-toothed washers should be placed between the hex bolt and the hitch side plate. The manual includes a diagram showing the correct orientation of the conical-toothed washer, hex bolt, and hitch side plate assembly.
1. Remove the underbody panel from the rear of the vehicle by removing eleven push fasteners and three nuts using a 10mm socket with 3" extension. 2. Trim the bumper cover using the trim diagram provided (2-1/2" and 3-1/4" measurements, center aligned). 3. Raise the hitch into position, gently pulling down on the bumper cover to allow the hitch to slide into place. 4. Secure with M12 hardware and torque to 86 ft-lbs. 5. Reinstall the underbody panel.
To remove debris from weldnuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. This helps prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
The installation difficulty level is rated as Moderate. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
To get copies of product warranties, register your purchase, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. For towing safety information, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation. Product support is available at 877.287.8634.
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