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2003 - 2008 Honda Pilot
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | N/A |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 7-Way Round |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2003 - 2008 | Honda Pilot | — |
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, CURT part 56421 is designed for both Honda Pilot and Honda Passport SUVs. However, the installation procedure differs between the two vehicles. Honda Pilot installation follows steps 2A through 10A, while Honda Passport installation follows steps 2B through 7B. Both vehicles then proceed to the common steps 11 onwards.
The product has the following electrical ratings: signal circuits are rated at 3.0-amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0-amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Required tools are: 8mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, cutting tool, panel trim removal tool, large Phillips screwdriver, small flat head screwdriver, and impact screwdriver with large Phillips head. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery using the owner's manual, then disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery when completing the installation. The powered converter lead instruction sheet also specifies: disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire.
The installation difficulty level is rated as Moderate. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and following all steps to ensure the product functions properly.
Drilling may be required for the ground connection. Step 13 instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw if no existing point is available. The area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint. A caution warns to check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Three fuses are required: one 10-amp (red) inline fuse installed in the fuse holder on the factory harness during the initial wiring steps, and two additional fuses installed in the engine compartment fuse panel. In Step 14, install two 20-amp (yellow) fuses in locations three and eleven, and one 30-amp (pink) fuse in location two of the fuse panel next to the brake fluid reservoir. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max.
The power wire is 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. This wire routes from the vehicle battery to the converter system. The powered converter lead instruction sheet specifies that the 12 GA wire should be routed to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter output wires are: Green for right turn, Red for brake, Yellow for left turn, and Brown for taillight. These wires connect to the trailer lighting system.
The black converter box is mounted using the provided double-sided tape. Step 13 instructs you to locate a flat spot on the floor board of the vehicle and adhere the converter box using this tape. The converter should be positioned near the grounding point.
Step 12 instructs you to use a cutting tool to carefully cut the grommet, creating a large enough opening for the custom wiring harness to pass through while allowing the grommet to be pushed back into place in the vehicle body. After routing the harness, use the provided tube of silicone to seal around the custom wiring harness.
If the backup sensor housing is already connected to a harness, you will need to disconnect it. After installing the custom wiring harness to the vehicle wiring harness, reconnect the backup sensor to the single wire connector on the custom wiring harness. This allows the backup sensor to continue functioning. Make sure all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Routing varies by vehicle. For Honda Pilot: the white connector end routes between the vehicle floor pan and the driver-side wall, in front of the jack mount and behind the access panel (Step 8A). The round housing feeds down through the grommet under the third row seat, with the USCAR plug fitting through the oval opening sideways (Step 10A). For Honda Passport: the harness runs under the carpet and through the grommet hole, with the USCAR plug fitting through the oval opening sideways (Step 7B). For both vehicles, the wiring routes in the center of the vehicle (above the spare tire on the Pilot) and is secured with zip ties as needed before plugging into the 7-way socket connector (Step 11).
The converter system is designed for use only on 12-volt negative ground systems. The powered converter lead instruction sheet explicitly states: "This converter system is to be used only on 12 volt negative ground systems."
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. The powered converter lead instruction sheet warns: "When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges."
Do not lay tools across the positive terminal (typically labeled with red covers or a red "+" symbol). This can cause a ground to short, causing sparks and/or electrical shocks. Additionally, disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire to avoid accidental short circuits.
After completing all installation steps and reconnecting the negative battery terminal, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual states: "Once the 12 volt power wire is connected to the harness verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer."
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and safety of the wiring harness.
If lights do not function, perform the following checks: (1) Verify the inline fuse is good. (2) Check the grounding location using a test light by attaching the clip end to the ground location and using the probe end on the power wire from the battery. (3) Make sure the surface around the ring terminal is raw or bare metal, free of rust, dirt, and paint. Poor grounding is a common cause of non-functioning lights.
Yes, CURT 56421 is designed for both Honda Pilot and Honda Passport. Installation procedures differ between the two vehicles, but both are fully supported.
You need: 8mm socket, ratchet, socket extension, cutting tool, panel trim removal tool, large Phillips screwdriver, small flat head screwdriver, and impact screwdriver with large Phillips head.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten the wire down and away from the battery.
Drilling may be required for the ground connection. You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if no existing mounting point is available. Check for hidden items before drilling.
Install one 10-amp (red) inline fuse in the factory harness, then install two 20-amp (yellow) fuses and one 30-amp (pink) fuse in the engine compartment fuse panel locations 3, 11, and 2 respectively.
Signal circuits: 3.0-amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0-amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
CURT 56421 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only.
Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer after reconnecting the battery and completing all installation steps.
Possible causes include: (1) a faulty inline fuse, (2) poor grounding connection, or (3) corroded or painted surface around the ring terminal. Check the inline fuse first. Then use a test light to verify the grounding location by attaching the clip end to the ground location and the probe end to the power wire from the battery. Ensure the surface around the ring terminal is raw or bare metal, free of rust, dirt, and paint.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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