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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2004 - 2007 | Chevrolet Malibu | Hatchback, excluding Maxx SS |
Yes, the 04-07 Chevrolet Malibu Hatchback, excluding Maxx SS 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW398 (Part #HBCW398) is designed to fit the 2004-2007 Chevrolet Malibu.
The 04-07 Chevrolet Malibu Hatchback, excluding Maxx SS 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW398 (Part #HBCW398) fits the following vehicles: 2004-2007 Chevrolet Malibu. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 04-07 Chevrolet Malibu Hatchback, excluding Maxx SS 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW398 (Part #HBCW398) fits 2004-2007 Chevrolet Malibu models. The 2007 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 04-07 Chevrolet Malibu Hatchback, excluding Maxx SS 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW398 (Part #HBCW398) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
CURT part 12185 is designed for 2016-present Buick Regal Sportback and Chevrolet Malibu Sedan models only. Verify your vehicle year and model match these applications before purchasing. The hitch is not compatible with other Buick or Chevrolet models.
The CURT 12185 has a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs. trailer weight and 350 lbs. tongue weight when used as a weight carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these ratings.
Required tools are: ratchet, 8 inch socket extension, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 11/16 inch socket, torque wrench, aviation shears, masking tape, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
No, drilling is not required. The CURT 12185 uses fishwire hardware to route bolts through existing access holes in the frame rails, eliminating the need for drilling.
On Chevrolet Malibu models, yes—temporary exhaust removal is required. You must remove the exhaust hanger, disconnect 4 M8 bolts from the exhaust brace and 2 M8 bolts from the exhaust flange, then slide the exhaust forward. On Buick Regal models, you only need to lower the exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators; full removal is not necessary. The exhaust is reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Yes, heat shield trimming is required on both Buick Regal and Chevrolet Malibu models. You must remove 10 speed clips (5 from each side) to access the heat shields, trim them using aviation shears, and reinstall them on the vehicle. On Regal models only, you also need to trim the lower rear fascia.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the installation, having a second person will help, particularly when raising the hitch into position and managing the exhaust.
Torque all 7/16 inch hardware to 60 ft-lbs. Torque all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs. These torque values apply to both the frame attachments and the inside lower bumper bolts. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper fastener tension.
The kit includes: 4 bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-1/2 inch, Grade 8), 2 HHCS M10x1.5x70 bolts, 4 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8), 2 flange nuts (M10x1.5, Class 10), 4 square hole spacers (0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25 inch), and 4 pieces of 7/16 inch fishwire. All fasteners are zinc-plated.
1. On Malibu only: remove exhaust hanger and disconnect exhaust brace and flange bolts. 2. On Malibu only: slide exhaust forward and replace inside lower bumper bolts with supplied M10 bolts. 3. On Regal only: lower exhaust by removing rubber isolators. On both: remove speed clips and trim heat shields. 4. Fishwire the 7/16 inch bolts and spacers through access holes to frame rails. 5. Raise hitch into position, align rear attachment, and loosely install all flange nuts. 6. Torque all fasteners and reinstall exhaust.
Fishwire is a flexible wire included in the kit (4 pieces of 7/16 inch fishwire) used to route bolts through the frame rail access holes. In step 4, you fishwire 2 bolts and 2 spacers from the access hole to the mounting holes on each frame rail, keeping the fishwires attached until the hitch is raised into position in step 5. This eliminates the need for drilling.
Fasteners must be installed loosely first. In step 5, loosely install all 4 flange nuts on the frame attachments and the 2 M10 flange nuts on the inside lower bumper bolts. Only after the hitch is fully positioned and aligned should you torque all fasteners to their final specifications in step 6.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. The installation is rated as moderate to challenging difficulty.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Refer to the CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for further information on stabilizing straps.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
CURT 12185 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Optional ball head options include 45571 (1 7/8 inch ball) and 45572 (2 inch ball). Consult the CURT catalog or website for compatibility details and to select the appropriate ball mount for your towing needs.
The access hole on each side of the vehicle is used to route the fishwire and bolts through to the frame rail mounting holes. This eliminates the need for drilling and allows the bolts to be installed from inside the vehicle without removing the bumper completely.
The CM-SP2 spacers (0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25 inch square hole spacers) are used during installation to properly position the bolts when fishwiring them through the access holes to the frame rail mounting holes. Two spacers are used per side (4 total in the kit).
The manual notes that clearing away caulk may ease installation. This refers to any factory caulk or sealant around the access holes or frame rail area that might interfere with fishwiring the bolts and spacers through to the mounting holes. Removing this material can make the fishwiring process smoother.
Yes, CURT 12185 is designed specifically for 2016-present Buick Regal Sportback and Chevrolet Malibu Sedan models. It is not compatible with other vehicle models.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses fishwire hardware to route bolts through existing access holes in the frame rails.
You need: ratchet, 8 inch socket extension, 13mm, 15mm, and 11/16 inch sockets, torque wrench, aviation shears, masking tape, and safety glasses. Proper tools improve installation quality and reduce time.
Torque all 7/16 inch hardware to 60 ft-lbs and all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper fastener tension.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
Yes, heat shield trimming is required on both models. Remove 10 speed clips, trim the shields with aviation shears, and reinstall. On Regal models, also trim the lower rear fascia.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56313 is designed for the Chevrolet Malibu Premier only. If you have a Premier model, this harness will fit. For other Malibu trim levels or model years, contact the manufacturer or check the fitment database to confirm compatibility.
The Curt 56313 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter that connects to your vehicle's taillight wiring to provide trailer lighting signals. It includes a converter box that processes left turn (yellow wire), right turn (green wire), brake (red wire), and taillight (brown wire) signals, and requires a dedicated 12-volt battery connection with a 10-amp fuse for power.
The Curt 56313 is rated for 3.0 amps per side on signal circuits (left and right turn) and 6.0 amps total on tail and running circuits. The battery connection must be fused at 10 amps maximum. Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's tow lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
No. The Curt 56313 converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
You will need a panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool. The manual also recommends having a drill available in case you need to create a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw if no existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame.
The Curt 56313 includes a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing wires, a 4-flat connector, and a 4-flat dust cover. A fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is also included and must be installed after all other steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is a required safety step. After all other installation steps are complete and the fuse is installed, you will reconnect the negative battery terminal.
On the Chevrolet Malibu Premier, the taillight wiring harness connectors are located behind the taillight housings inside the trunk. The driver side connector (P3) is behind the driver side taillight, and the passenger side connector (P4) is behind the passenger side taillight. You will access them by removing the trunk floor coverings, scuff panel, and felt liner.
Separate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You should first locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Always check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
The pilot hole for the ground screw should be 3/32" in diameter. This hole is only needed if no existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame near the taillight connector.
Mount the black converter box on a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and flat to ensure secure adhesion.
The Curt 56313 uses the following wire colors: Yellow for left turn signal, Green for right turn signal, Red for brake signal, Brown for taillight, and White for ground. The custom harness has a yellow wire end for the driver side and a green wire end for the passenger side. The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery positive terminal to the converter box, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. The fuse holder with 10-amp fuse must be installed after all other steps are complete.
The power wire from the battery must be 12-gauge or larger. It must be protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse installed in a fuse holder. The fuse should be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
The battery connection must be fused at 10 amps maximum. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's tow lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
After installation is complete, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and install the provided 4-flat dust cover before testing.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When routing the power wire, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire. Do not exceed the product rating (3.0 amps per side for signals, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's tow lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
The Curt 56313 is designed for the Chevrolet Malibu Premier only.
Panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, and a drill (for 3/32" pilot hole if needed).
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only if no existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame near the taillight connector. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw.
10 amps maximum. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
12-gauge or larger. The wire must be protected with a 10-amp fuse installed after all other steps are complete.
3.0 amps per side for signal circuits (left and right turn) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's tow lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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