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2005 - 2007 Mercury Montego
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| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 500 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S6 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2005 - 2007 | Mercury Montego | — |
The 05-07 Mercury Montego 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1940 (Part #HBCW1940) fits the following vehicles: 2005-2007 Mercury Montego. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 05-07 Mercury Montego 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1940 (Part #HBCW1940) fits 2005-2007 Mercury Montego models. The 2007 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 05-07 Mercury Montego 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1940 (Part #HBCW1940) is designed to fit the 2005-2007 Mercury Montego.
The 05-07 Mercury Montego 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1940 (Part #HBCW1940) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Curt part number 13587 is designed for 2004–2007 Ford Freestar and 2004–2007 Mercury Monterey models only. Verify your vehicle year and model before purchasing.
The kit includes: four 1/2-13 UNC Grade 8 carriage bolts, 1-3/4" long (part 10-10272); two 1/2-13 UNC Grade 8 carriage bolts, 2-1/2" long (part 10-10306); six 1/2-13 UNC Grade 8 serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062); two 0.250 × 1.50 × 3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP4); two 0.250 × 1.00 × 2.50" square hole spacers (part CM-SP10); two 0.250 × 1.50 × 2.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP1); and six 1/2" fishwires.
No, you do not need to remove the exhaust system completely. The installation procedure requires you to lower the exhaust by removing the rearmost exhaust hanger to provide clearance for hitch installation. After the hitch is secured, the exhaust is re-attached.
Fishwire is a flexible wire used to route fasteners through the vehicle frame. For the Curt 13587, you use fishwire to thread the large spacer blocks and long carriage bolts into existing slots on the bottom of the frame (step 2), and then to route remaining fasteners through the large access slot on the bottom of the frame and out through existing holes on the side of the frame (step 4). This technique allows fasteners to be positioned without direct access.
1. Lower the exhaust by removing the rearmost exhaust hanger. 2. Use fishwire to thread the large spacer blocks and long carriage bolts into existing slots on the bottom of the frame. 3. Raise the hitch into position under the frame and over the previously installed bolts, then attach a flange nut to each bolt (hand tighten only). 4. Fishwire the remaining fasteners through the large access slot on the bottom of the frame and out through existing holes on the side of the frame. 5. Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb.-ft. and re-attach the exhaust.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 lb.-ft. This torque is applied after the hitch is positioned and all fasteners are hand-tightened.
Before installation, check the mounting holes in the vehicle frame for misalignment. If misalignment is present, enlarge the holes to provide proper bolt clearance. The hitch relies on existing frame access slots and holes, so verify these are present and accessible on your vehicle.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, so inspect before each towing use and at regular service intervals.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The Curt 13587 has its own gross load capacity specifications, but your vehicle's towing limit is the controlling factor. Consult your Ford Freestar or Mercury Monterey owner's manual for the maximum towing and tongue weight your vehicle can safely handle.
The Curt 13587 is designed for 2004–2007 Ford Freestar and 2004–2007 Mercury Monterey models only.
No. You only need to lower the exhaust by removing the rearmost exhaust hanger for clearance, then re-attach it after installation.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 lb.-ft. after the hitch is positioned and hand-tightened.
The manual does not specify required tools. Standard hand tools for removing and re-attaching the exhaust hanger and a torque wrench capable of measuring 110 lb.-ft. are necessary. Consult the manufacturer if you need a detailed tool list.
The manual does not specify whether professional installation is required. The procedure involves lowering the exhaust, using fishwire to route fasteners through frame slots, and torquing to 110 lb.-ft. Contact Curt Manufacturing or a qualified installer if you are unsure of your ability to complete these steps safely.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, Curt part 56073 is designed for Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey models. The installation manual specifically covers these two vehicles.
Curt part 56073 is a trailer wiring harness T-connector designed to integrate trailer lighting with the factory taillight wiring on Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey vehicles.
You will need three relays and two 20 amp mini fuses. The relays are inserted into positions 29, 30, and 31 in the main fuse center, and the 20 amp mini fuses are inserted into positions 46 and 52. These items are not included with the product and must be purchased separately.
The taillight wiring harness is located behind the rear bumper. You will need to access this area to locate the factory harness connector for the T-connector installation.
The main fuse center is located on the driver's side of the engine compartment at the front of the vehicle. You will need to access this to install the relays and fuses required for the trailer wiring harness.
1. Locate the factory harness connector behind the rear bumper. 2. Remove the protective dust cover from the factory connector and clean away any dirt, dust or debris. 3. Insert the T-connector harness end into the factory harness connector. 4. Firmly press the ends together until the locking tabs engage.
Use cable ties to secure the T-connector wires to the vehicle. This prevents the wires from moving or becoming damaged during vehicle operation.
The three relays are inserted into positions 29, 30, and 31 in the main fuse center. Refer to the label on the inside of the fuse panel cover for exact position locations.
The two 20 amp mini fuses are inserted into positions 46 and 52 in the main fuse center. Refer to the label on the inside of the fuse panel cover for exact position locations.
Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items (such as wiring, fuel lines, or other components) are not hidden behind or under any surface you plan to drill into. This will avoid damage to the vehicle and prevent personal injury.
Yes, Curt 56073 is designed for Ford Freestar and Mercury Monterey vehicles.
You must purchase three relays and two 20 amp mini fuses separately; these are not included with the product.
No. The T-connector harness inserts directly into the factory harness connector behind the rear bumper. You do not need to remove or cut the factory connector.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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