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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2006 - 2010 Ford Explorer Fits beneath factory 1-1/4" receiver hitch. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 5,000 lbs. GTW and 500 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 8,000 lbs. WD and 800 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2006 - 2010 | Ford Explorer | Fits beneath factory 1: 1/4" receiver hitch |
The 06 - 10 Ford Explorer Fits beneath factory 1-1/4" receiver hitch Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13112 (Part #5W-CHW-986) fits 2006-2010 Ford Explorer models. The 2010 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 06 - 10 Ford Explorer Fits beneath factory 1-1/4" receiver hitch Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13112 (Part #5W-CHW-986) fits the following vehicles: 2006-2010 Ford Explorer. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 06 - 10 Ford Explorer Fits beneath factory 1-1/4" receiver hitch Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13112 (Part #5W-CHW-986) is designed to fit the 2006-2010 Ford Explorer.
The 06 - 10 Ford Explorer Fits beneath factory 1-1/4" receiver hitch Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13112 (Part #5W-CHW-986) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The hitch weight specification is not provided in the installation manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for this specification.
The gross load capacity values for both trailer weight and tongue weight are not filled in the installation manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 to obtain these specifications before installation.
The gross load capacity values for both trailer weight and tongue weight are not filled in the installation manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 to obtain these specifications before installation.
Yes, the Curt 13112 is designed for Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer. It fits below the OEM receiver hitch. Do not use both the OEM hitch and this receiver at the same time, as this may overload and damage the vehicle.
No. If your vehicle is equipped with an OEM hitch, do not use both receivers at the same time. Using both may overload and cause damage to the vehicle.
Yes. The installation notes state that this hitch fits below the OEM receiver hitch.
No. The manual explicitly states that no drilling is required for installation.
The manual does not specify which tools are required. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for a complete tool list. The installation process involves fishwiring, hand tightening, torquing fasteners to 110 lb-ft, and using cable ties, so you will need at least a torque wrench and hammer (for flattening the frame rail if needed).
The parts list includes: 1 × 1/2" fishwire, 2 × .250 × 1.50 × 3.00" square hole spacer (CM-SP4), 4 × 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts (10-10288), 4 × 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (20-00062), 2 × .250 × 1.00 × 3.00" square hole spacer (CM-SP6), and 2 × 11/64 × 15" 50 lb UV black cable ties (CM-116415-CT).
The fishwire is used to guide the carriage bolts and spacers through the access slots on either side of the frame rail during the forward and rearward attachment steps. It helps insert the fasteners through the frame without pushing the carriage bolt and block back into the frame.
The manual does not state that spare tire removal is required. Step 6 mentions re-installing the spare tire if it was removed prior to installation, suggesting it is optional. Contact Curt Manufacturing at 1-877-287-8634 if you are unsure whether removal is necessary for your vehicle.
Remove the electrical bracket from the bumper and disconnect the rubber electrical connector from the metal bracket. Replace the bolt and return the bracket to the owner. This is step 1 of the installation process.
1. Remove the electrical bracket from bumper and disconnect the rubber electrical connector; replace the bolt and return the bracket. 2. Install the carriage bolt and spacer using the fishwire for the forward attachment through the access slot on either side of the frame rail. 3. Raise the hitch into position and hand tighten the conical washer and hex nut (being careful not to push the carriage bolt and block back into the frame). 4. Using the fishwire, install the remaining carriage bolts and spacers for the rearward attachment through the same access slot on either side of the frame rail. 5. Torque all 1/2 fasteners to 110 lb-ft. 6. Using the cable ties supplied, attach the trailer wiring plug in a suitable location for future access. Re-install spare tire if it was removed prior to installation.
Install the carriage bolt and spacer using the fishwire for the forward attachment. Insert the fasteners through the access slot on either side of the frame rail. The fishwire helps guide the fasteners without pushing the carriage bolt and block back into the frame.
After installing the forward attachment fasteners, raise the hitch into position and hand tighten the conical washer and hex nut. Be careful not to push the carriage bolt and block back into the frame while raising the hitch.
Using the fishwire, install the remaining carriage bolts and spacers for the rearward attachment. Insert the fasteners through the same access slot on either side of the frame rail, just as you did for the forward attachment.
On some vehicles, the rearward attachment hole may have minor deformation. If there is interference with raising the hitch into position, use a hammer to flatten the frame rail.
Using the cable ties supplied with the hitch, attach the trailer wiring plug in a suitable location for future access. This is the final step before re-installing the spare tire if it was removed.
Torque all 1/2 fasteners to 110 lb-ft.
The carriage bolts are 1/2-13 UNC, grade 8, yellow zinc plated (part number 10-10288). Four bolts are included in the kit.
The nuts are 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts, grade 8, yellow zinc plated (part number 20-00062). Four nuts are included in the kit.
Two types of spacers are included: 2 × .250 × 1.50 × 3.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP4) and 2 × .250 × 1.00 × 3.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP6).
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The Curt 13112 specifications are not fully provided in the manual; contact Curt Manufacturing at 1-877-287-8634 for complete capacity information.
If your vehicle is equipped with an OEM hitch, do not use both receivers at the same time. Using both may overload and cause damage to the vehicle.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a maintenance interval; contact Curt Manufacturing at 1-877-287-8634 for recommended inspection frequency.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound, but does not specify a maintenance interval. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for recommended inspection frequency.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, Curt Manufacturing may repair or replace the product at their option when the product is returned, prepaid, with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. Curt Manufacturing's liability is limited to repair or replacement of products found to be defective and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Professional installation takes approximately 60 minutes. DIY/novice installation takes approximately 33 minutes.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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