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2007 - 2008 Honda Fit
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| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LBS |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2007 - 2008 | Honda Fit | — |
The 07-08 HONDA Fit 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1366 (Part #HBCW1366) fits the following vehicles: 2007-2008 Honda Fit. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 07-08 HONDA Fit 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1366 (Part #HBCW1366) is designed to fit the 2007-2008 Honda Fit.
The 07-08 HONDA Fit 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1366 (Part #HBCW1366) fits 2007-2008 Honda Fit models. The 2008 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 07-08 HONDA Fit 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1366 (Part #HBCW1366) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 11640 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify which vehicles are compatible with the CURT 11640. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle make, model, and year.
You will need: ratchet, flathead screwdriver, torque wrench, rotary tool, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, 3/4" socket, tape measure, and tape. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 1 carriage bolt (1/2" - 13 x 2"), 4 hex bolts (M8 - 1.25 x 40), 1 serrated-flange nut (1/2" - 13), 4 conical-toothed washers (3/8"), and 1 spacer (2.00" x 1.50" x .25").
You do not need to fully remove the bumper. You must remove the lower fascia panel by removing two push fasteners from the bottom, one push fastener from the middle of the bumper cover inside the bumper, and one screw from each end of the panel. After installation, you will trim and reinstall the bumper panel.
1. Remove the lower fascia panel (two push fasteners from bottom, one from middle of bumper cover, one screw from each end). 2. Remove the bottom two M8 bolts from each bumper beam connection. 3. Raise the hitch into position and loosely secure with M8 bolts and conical-toothed washers. 4. Install the 1/2" carriage bolt through the hitch, vehicle recovery loop, and spacer; secure with serrated flange nut. 5. Torque M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs and 1/2" hardware to 90 ft-lbs. 6. Trim the bumper panel and reinstall.
Yes, bumper fascia trimming is required. After securing all hardware, trim the bumper panel using the trim diagram provided in the manual. The trim is centered on the bumper, with cuts 2" and 2-1/4" from the center reference point. After trimming, reinstall the bumper panel.
Torque the M8 hex bolts to 23 ft-lbs and the 1/2" carriage bolt and serrated-flange nut to 90 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
In Step 3, loosely secure the hitch with M8 bolts and conical-toothed washers. Do not fully tighten them until Step 5, after the carriage bolt and spacer assembly is complete. At Step 5, torque the M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs and the 1/2" hardware to 90 ft-lbs.
The conical-toothed washers (4 included, 3/8" size) are used with the M8 hex bolts to secure the hitch to the vehicle frame. They should be oriented with the teeth facing the frame to provide a secure grip and prevent loosening. Install one washer under each of the four M8 bolts.
The spacer (2.00" x 1.50" x .25") is installed on the 1/2" carriage bolt between the vehicle recovery loop and the serrated-flange nut. It maintains proper spacing and alignment of the hitch assembly.
Wear safety glasses at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. After installation, perform periodic inspections to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
After installation, verify that all mounting hardware is tight and structural components are secure. Perform periodic inspections to ensure the hitch remains in proper condition. Refer to the final installed image in the manual to confirm the hitch is positioned correctly and the bumper panel is properly trimmed and reinstalled.
The manual specifies that periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the exact interval; consult curtmfg.com or contact product support at 877.287.8634 for recommended inspection schedules.
Vehicle compatibility is not specified in the manual. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
No drilling is required. The installation uses existing vehicle frame holes and bumper beam connections. Bumper fascia trimming is required using a rotary tool.
Torque M8 bolts to 23 ft-lbs and 1/2" hardware to 90 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs; tongue weight capacity is 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Wear safety glasses at all times. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Perform periodic inspections to ensure all hardware remains tight.
Curt 56483 is a custom wiring harness system for SUVs and vans that includes a powered converter module. It provides signal circuits (7.5 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (7.5 amps total) for trailer lighting. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with color-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), a 4-flat connector, ground wire with ring terminal, power wire, cable ties, double-sided tape, and a 4-flat dust cover.
Curt 56483 is designed for SUVs and vans. The manual does not specify individual vehicle makes, models, or years. Battery location and wiring access points may differ depending on the specific vehicle. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
Yes. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. If your vehicle uses a different electrical system configuration, this product is not compatible.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 8mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, and flathead screwdriver. A fish wire (or equivalent such as a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) is also needed to route wires through blind holes. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes: custom wiring harness with color-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), powered converter box, 4-flat connector, white ground wire with ring terminal, black power wire, cable ties, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, 4-flat dust cover, and a ground screw. A 15-amp fuse holder is also included and must be installed after all other steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. If the battery was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect the negative battery terminal after all other installation steps are complete and before installing the fuse.
Using a panel trim removal tool or small flathead screwdriver, remove the taillight fastener covers. Use an 8mm socket to remove the taillight fasteners on both sides of the vehicle. Carefully pull the taillight straight back. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors (which will be similar to those on the custom wiring product). Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillight aside in a safe place. Repeat on the other side.
Fish wiring is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert a fish wire (which can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) through the blind hole, making sure it is long enough to stick out on the other side. Locate the fish wire on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. For the driver side, attach the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull up into the factory taillight connector. For the passenger side, route the green wire over to the rear bumper and repeat the process.
Locate a flat, clean surface on the driver side that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape or cable ties. Mounting the box in a protected area is critical; failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no suitable existing fastener is available, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint if necessary. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route the 4-flat along the rear bumper and mount it near the receiver tube. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. After mounting, install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling may be required only if no suitable existing fastener is available for grounding the white ground wire. In that case, you must drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole in a clean area free from rust, dirt, and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. No other drilling is required for standard installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 7.5 amps per side. Tail/running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole if an existing fastener is not available for grounding the white ground wire. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint.
Yellow wire = left turn signal. Green wire = right turn signal. Red wire = brake signal. Brown wire = taillight (running light). These color-coded wires connect the factory taillight connectors to the custom wiring harness. The white wire is the ground wire with a ring terminal. The black wire is the power wire that connects to the positive battery terminal.
The power wire must be 12 GA (gauge) or larger. Route the 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges.
A 15-amp fuse is the maximum allowed. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Route the black 12 GA power wire to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. The ring terminal must be securely attached to the positive battery terminal. After all other installation steps are complete, install the 15-amp fuse in the fuse holder. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a '+' symbol) as this can cause a ground short, sparks, or electrical shock.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten it down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (red covers or '+' symbol) as this can cause a ground short, sparks, or electrical shock. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect from sharp edges. Route the power wire avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. Mount the converter box in a protected area away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
After installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected at the beginning. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the product for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. Ensure all wires are secured with cable ties and the converter box is mounted securely in a protected area. All steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check that the converter box remains securely mounted and that all cable ties are intact. Verify that the 4-flat dust cover is in place to help prevent corrosion.
Curt 56483 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes or models. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
You need: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 8mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and a fish wire (or equivalent such as a wire hanger or rope).
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it after all other steps are complete, before installing the fuse.
Maximum 15-amp fuse. Install after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
12 GA (gauge) or larger. Route to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal connection.
Mount on the driver side in a flat, clean, protected area away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use provided double-sided tape or cable ties. Failure to mount in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections. Ensure the converter box remains securely mounted and the 4-flat dust cover is in place.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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