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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2008 - 2014 MINI Cooper Clubman and Clubman S. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Mini Cooper (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2008 - 2014 | Mercury Cooper | Clubman and Clubman S |
Yes, CURT part number 11387 is designed for MINI Cooper Clubman and Clubman S models from 2008 to current. The hitch attaches using existing vehicle hardware and is designed for use with EURO Ballmount #45551 (1 7/8" ball) or #45552 (2" ball).
The CURT 11387 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs. and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these limits.
You will need: torque wrench, ratchet, 9" socket extension, 13mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, offset Phillips screwdriver (or wrench with Phillips driver bit), power drill, and 2-1/2" hole saw. Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
Yes. You must remove the bumper cover and bumper beam. The bumper cover is secured by 8 fasteners, and the bumper beam is secured by 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts. The hitch is then sandwiched between the bumper beam and the rear of the car using the existing vehicle hardware.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, you can contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Yes. You must drill a 2-1/2" access hole through the bumper cover to allow access to the receiver tube. Mark the drill location by measuring down 3-3/4" from the bumper cover lip and center using the dimple in the license plate cover. When drilling, make sure not to drill through the sensor bracket or loose wiring. Verify the drill location prior to drilling.
All 8mm bolts and 8mm nuts used to secure the hitch must be torqued to 24 ft-lbs. These are the 4 bolts and 4 nuts that attach the hitch between the bumper beam and the rear of the car.
The 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts that originally secure the bumper beam to the vehicle are removed in step 9 and then reused in step 11 to secure the hitch. The hitch attaches using existing vehicle hardware.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on stabilizing straps.
Longer safety chains may be required to reach the chain loops on the hitch. Before towing, verify that your safety chains are long enough to clear the bumper cover while turning. The hitch has chain loops located on the rear bumper beam and rear end panel.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This is especially important before towing. The manual does not specify a particular interval, but regular inspection before use is recommended.
CURT hitch 11387 is designed for use with EURO Ballmount #45551 (1 7/8" ball) and EURO Ballmount #45552 (2" ball). These are the only ballmounts specified in the manual for this hitch.
You must disconnect 2 license plate light harnesses and 1 rear sensor harness when removing the bumper cover. These harnesses must be reconnected when reinstalling the bumper cover during reassembly.
You must remove 7 wiring harness clips from the aluminum bumper beam using a flat blade screwdriver. These clips must be reinstalled after the hitch is secured and before the bumper cover is raised back into position.
Remove fasteners in this order: (1) 8 fasteners securing the bumper cover, (2) fastener 1 from inside the rear wheel well using a Phillips screwdriver (remove rear wheels if needed for access), (3) fastener 2 from the bottom of the bumper near the rear wheel well, (4) fastener 3 hidden behind the fender flare using an offset Phillips screwdriver or wrench with Phillips driver bit, and (5) fastener 4 from the bottom of the bumper cover. After these are removed, the bumper cover is held only by locking tabs and can be pulled free.
Slide one hand past the wheel well liner and fender flare, then push up on the 2 lower tabs that connect the fender flare to the bumper cover. Using your other hand, pry the rear fender flare away from the car until it pops free. Release the side marker bulb from the fender flare. The fender flare is snapped back into place during reassembly.
You must support the bumper beam before removing the bolts to prevent it from falling. The bumper beam is secured by 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts that must be removed using a ratchet, socket extension, and 13mm socket.
Raise the hitch into position by aligning the holes and weld studs on the car with the holes in the hitch. The hitch is then sandwiched between the bumper beam and the rear of the car. It is secured using the 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts that were removed from the bumper beam, torqued to 24 ft-lbs.
Measure down 3-3/4" from the bumper cover lip and center the hole using the dimple in the license plate cover. Use a 2-1/2" hole saw to drill through the license plate holder and bumper cover. Verify the drill location prior to drilling to avoid drilling through the sensor bracket or loose wiring.
After the hitch is fully installed: (1) Reinstall the 7 wiring harness clips removed from the bumper beam, (2) Raise the bumper cover to the car and reconnect the 2 license plate light harnesses and rear sensor harness, (3) Align the bumper cover and pull back on the fender flares, (4) Push bumper lock tabs in place until they snap, (5) Re-attach side marker bulbs to fender flares, (6) Reinstall all 8 fasteners removed previously, and (7) Snap fender flares back into place.
Yes. CURT 11387 is designed for MINI Cooper Clubman and Clubman S, 2008-current. It attaches using existing vehicle hardware and is compatible with EURO Ballmount #45551 (1 7/8" ball) or #45552 (2" ball).
Maximum 2,000 lbs. trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque wrench, ratchet, 9" socket extension, 13mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, offset Phillips screwdriver, power drill, and 2-1/2" hole saw. Safety glasses required.
Yes. Bumper cover and bumper beam removal required. The hitch is sandwiched between the bumper beam and vehicle rear using existing hardware.
Yes. A 2-1/2" hole must be drilled through the bumper cover for receiver tube access. Mark location 3-3/4" down from bumper cover lip, centered on license plate dimple. Verify location before drilling to avoid sensor bracket or wiring.
All 8mm bolts and nuts: 24 ft-lbs. These secure the hitch between bumper beam and vehicle rear.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids warranty. See CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for details.
Periodically check all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. Verify safety chains clear bumper cover while turning before towing.
If you cannot access fastener 1 from inside the rear wheel well, you may remove the rear wheels to gain access to the screw. This is an optional step provided in the manual to facilitate removal.
After removing all fasteners (8 from bumper cover, 1 from wheel well, 1 from bottom near wheel well, 1 hidden behind fender flare, and 1 from bottom of bumper cover), the bumper cover is held only by locking tabs. Pull back on each side of the bumper cover until it pops free. If it resists, ensure all fasteners have been removed and tabs are fully released.
The manual explicitly states: "Verify drill location prior to drilling!" Measure down 3-3/4" from the bumper cover lip and center using the dimple in the license plate cover. Double-check this measurement before using the 2-1/2" hole saw to avoid drilling through the sensor bracket or loose wiring.
The manual warns: "Support bumper beam before removing bolts to prevent from falling." Always support the bumper beam with a jack, stand, or helper before removing the 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts. This prevents injury and damage to the vehicle.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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