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Complete CURT Class 2 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2010 - 2019 Ford Taurus Sedan (Excluding Police Package). Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Ford Taurus (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 300 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Ford Taurus, Ford Explorer and Lincoln MKS (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2010 - 2019 | Ford Taurus | Sedan (Excluding Police Package) |
Yes, the CURT 12296 is designed for Ford Taurus including SHO models from 2010 to current, sedan body style only. Confirm your vehicle matches this specification before purchase. The hitch is designed for use with ball mount #45518/D-18.
The CURT 12296 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 3,500 lbs and tongue weight of 300 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Always verify your vehicle's limits before towing.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing holes in the Ford Taurus frame rails and an existing weld nut. Installation uses the fishwire technique to route carriage bolts through access holes in the frame rails.
You do not need to fully remove the exhaust, but you must lower it. Remove the upper exhaust hanger brackets from the rubber isolators and remove the exhaust hangers near the exhaust split forward of the mufflers from their rubber isolators. Support the exhaust to avoid damage during installation. The rubber isolators must be saved and reinstalled after the hitch is mounted.
You will need: 10mm, 18mm, and 19mm sockets; an 8-inch socket extension; a ratchet; a torque wrench; safety glasses; and spray lubricant. A 10mm socket removes the driver side exhaust isolator bracket bolts, an 18mm socket removes the passenger side bracket bolts, and a 19mm socket secures the hitch fasteners.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools and having assistance will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs. Torque all M12 hardware to 79 ft-lbs. The 1/2-inch hardware includes the carriage bolts and flange nuts; the M12 hardware is the hex bolt with conical toothed washer that secures the forward-most hole on the passenger side.
The fishwire technique routes the carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes and into the existing holes in the frame rail before the hitch is positioned. Two 1/2-inch fishwires are included. The driver side bolt is fished forward through the access hole into the existing forward hole. The remaining bolts are reverse-pulled through the rearmost access holes. Detailed diagrams are provided in the manual.
The kit includes: 3× 1/2-13 UNC carriage bolts (1-1/4 inch, grade 8); 3× CM-SP10 spacers (0.250 × 1.00 × 2.50 inch square hole); 3× 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (grade 8); 1× M12×1.75×35mm hex bolt (class 10.9); 2× 1/2-inch fishwires; and 1× 1/2-inch conical toothed washer. All hardware is yellow zinc plated.
Yes. The rubber isolators removed from the upper exhaust hanger brackets in Step 1 must be saved and reinstalled in Step 10. After the hitch is secured, raise the exhaust into position and reinstall the muffler hangers in the isolators, then attach the rubber isolators to the hanger tabs in the hitch side plates. Spray lubricant or soapy water will ease installation of the isolators onto the mount tabs.
1. Remove upper exhaust hanger brackets from rubber isolators and save isolators. 2. Support exhaust and remove forward exhaust hangers from isolators. 3. Remove driver side exhaust isolator bracket (10mm socket, 2 bolts). 4. Remove passenger side exhaust isolator bracket (18mm socket, 2 bolts). 5. Fishwire 1/2-13 carriage bolt and spacer through driver side access hole. 6. Reverse-pull fishwire carriage bolts and spacers into rearmost access holes on both sides. 7. Maneuver hitch into position between exhaust and bumper cover, aligning fishwired hardware with hitch holes. 8. Secure hitch with 19mm socket using 3× flange nuts and 1× M12 hex bolt with washer. 9. Torque 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs and M12 hardware to 79 ft-lbs. 10. Reinstall rubber isolators and raise exhaust into position.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Support the exhaust system to avoid damage when removing the isolators and hangers. Take care not to push the fishwired hardware into the frame rails when positioning the hitch. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and contacting an authorized CURT installer if you are hesitant to undertake the installation yourself.
CURT strongly recommends the use of auxiliary stabilizing straps for all non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads with auxiliary stabilizing straps will void the product warranty. Refer to the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on compatible straps.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but regular inspection of fastener tightness is essential for safe operation.
The CURT 12296 is designed for use with ball mount #45518/D-18. Verify compatibility with your chosen ball mount before purchase.
CURT Manufacturing Inc. warrants the product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, it fits 2010–current Ford Taurus including SHO sedans. It is designed for use with ball mount #45518/D-18.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes and an existing weld nut.
You need 10mm, 18mm, and 19mm sockets; an 8-inch extension; a ratchet; a torque wrench; safety glasses; and spray lubricant.
No, but you must lower it by removing the upper exhaust hanger brackets and forward exhaust hangers from their rubber isolators, and supporting the exhaust system.
Torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all M12 hardware to 79 ft-lbs.
Maximum 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 300 lbs tongue weight, but never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes, CURT strongly recommends auxiliary stabilizing straps for all non-trailer loads. Failure to use them voids the warranty.
Yes, the Curt 56093 wiring harness is designed for Ford Taurus. The installation manual provides specific steps (Steps 1A–8A) for Taurus models, including battery location on the driver side of the engine compartment and taillight connector access through the trunk.
Yes, the Curt 56093 is designed for Ford Explorer 10th generation models. However, installation steps differ by VIN: 10th VIN B, C, or D models use Steps 1B–8B; 10th VIN L models use Steps 1C–8C. The main difference is battery location: VIN B/C/D have the battery on the driver side; VIN L has the battery on the passenger side under a cover.
The Curt 56093 is designed for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems only. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to confirm your system is 12-volt negative ground before installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, paint marker, 8mm socket, pliers, wire stripper, electrical tape, socket extension, cutting tool, and heat gun. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. For Taurus and Explorer (VIN B, C, D), the battery is located on the driver side of the engine compartment. For Explorer (VIN L), the battery is on the passenger side under a cover—push both tabs on the cover towards the rear and lift to access it. Fasten the disconnected negative wire down and away from the battery during installation.
The installation is rated as Easy. Installation difficulty is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
On a Taurus, the taillight wiring harness connectors are located behind the felt trunk liner. Pull back the felt liner after removing the three plastic fasteners securing it with a panel trim removal tool. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Separate them from the taillight housing carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
On Explorer 10th generation models, the taillight housing is accessed by loosening the side wall panels with a panel trim removal tool, starting at the floor and working up to the headliner. Pull back the panel to locate the taillight housing and connectors. The connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. Separate them carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs.
Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side with the green wire.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable existing grounding point is not available. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint before installing the provided screw with the white ground wire ring terminal.
The wiring harness includes: Yellow wire (left turn signal), Green wire (right turn signal), Red wire (brake), Brown wire (taillight), White wire (ground), and Black wire (power). The yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight connector, and the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connector.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter as shown on the provided Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. Take care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Route the green wire along the back of the vehicle under the scuff plate. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. The green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the provided screw. Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before securing the connection.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the specific lamp load rating of your vehicle. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before completing the final installation steps.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate. (3) Remove felt trunk liner fasteners. (4) Connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal on the driver side and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate; fold third row seats forward. (3) Remove cargo hold-down covers and side panel fasteners. (4) Loosen side wall panels and connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Locate the battery on the passenger side under a cover; push both tabs towards the rear and lift to access it. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and fasten it away from the battery. (2) Remove floor coverings and scuff panel from the tailgate; fold third row seats forward. (3) Unthread the cargo net hold-down screw with pliers, loosen the cargo hook fastener cover, and remove the cargo hook with an 8mm socket on both sides. (4) Loosen side wall panels and connect the yellow wire to the driver side taillight connectors. (5) Install the ground wire at a suitable grounding point or drill a 3/32" hole. (6) Route the green wire along the back under the scuff plate and connect to the passenger side. (7) Route the black power wire from the battery per the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. (8) Route and store the 4-flat connector, reinstall removed items, reconnect the battery, and install the dust cover.
Use a panel trim removal tool to remove the scuff panel by pulling out on the bottom and then up. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back. The scuff panel is accessed after opening the tailgate and removing floor coverings.
The battery on Explorer 10th VIN L is located on the passenger side of the engine compartment under a cover. Push both tabs on the cover towards the rear of the vehicle and lift to remove the cover and access the battery.
For Explorer 10th VIN L, use pliers to unthread the screw behind the cargo net hold-down. Use a panel trim removal tool to loosen the cargo hook fastener cover. Use an 8mm socket to remove the cargo hook. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
The Curt 56093 is designed for Ford Taurus and Ford Explorer 10th generation (VIN B, C, D, or L). Confirm your vehicle model and year match before purchasing. It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system.
You need: panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, ratchet, 8mm socket, pliers, cutting tool, heat gun, electrical tape, paint marker, and socket extension. A 3/32" drill bit is needed if drilling for the ground wire.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and fasten it away from the battery. Reconnect it after all other steps are complete.
Drilling may be required. If no suitable existing grounding point is available near the taillight connector, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer before completing final installation steps.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover when not in use to prevent corrosion.
First, verify the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the battery with the correct fuse (10-amp maximum) installed. Check that all wire connections at the taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Ensure the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, rust-free grounding point. Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm proper operation.
The manual states that the vehicle's taillight connectors will be similar to those on the custom wiring harness. If they do not match, verify you have the correct vehicle model and year (Taurus or Explorer 10th generation with correct VIN). Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a Curt representative if connectors are incompatible.
The manual warns to take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the taillight connectors. If the tabs are damaged, the connectors may not stay fully inserted, which could cause the harness to malfunction. Consult the vehicle manufacturer about replacement connector housings or contact Curt for guidance on repair options.
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