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Authorized Dealer2011 - 2014 Hyundai Sonata
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2014 | Hyundai Sonata | — |
The 11-14 Hyundai Sonata 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1449 (Part #HBCW1449) fits 2011-2014 Hyundai Sonata models. The 2014 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 11-14 Hyundai Sonata 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1449 (Part #HBCW1449) is designed to fit the 2011-2014 Hyundai Sonata.
The 11-14 Hyundai Sonata 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1449 (Part #HBCW1449) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2014 Hyundai Sonata. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 11-14 Hyundai Sonata 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1449 (Part #HBCW1449) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the Curt 11325 is designed for Hyundai Sonata GL and GLS models. It is compatible with existing weldnuts in both frame rails and requires no drilling.
The manual states a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm long socket, 9/16" socket, 11/16" socket, torque wrench, pen or marker, aviation shears, and rotary tool.
The kit includes: four M10×1.25×30 mm class 10.9 hex head cap screws (part 10-10271), one 3/8-16 UNC carriage bolt 1-3/4" long grade 8 (part 10-10473), one 3/8-16 UNC hex nut grade 8 (part 20-00166), one 3/8" S-CON washer (part 30-00148), four 7/16" S-CON washers (part 30-00163), and one 0.250" spacer (part CM-11325-SP).
No. The Curt 11325 requires no drilling. It uses existing weldnuts in both frame rails.
You may need to notch the bumper fascia on the driver side. The manual states "Notch bumper fascia as needed on drivers side" during installation step 3.
You may need to trim the plastic underbody panel. The manual states you should "Trim and reattach plastic underbody panel as shown, if needed" in step 6. You will also need to remove it initially in step 1 to access the muffler heat shield.
Yes. You must remove the passenger side muffler heat shield by first removing the two rearmost muffler mounts. This allows access to the four heat shield mounting fasteners and the forward-most frame weldnut.
All 10mm fasteners must be torqued to 48 ft-lbs.
All 3/8" fasteners must be torqued to 45 ft-lbs.
1. Remove plastic underbody panel fasteners if needed. 2. Remove passenger side muffler heat shield by removing two rearmost muffler mounts, then remove four heat shield fasteners and access the forward-most frame weldnut. 3. Place rectangular spacer with 3/8" carriage bolt through tow loop and raise hitch into position over muffler heat shield(s); notch bumper fascia on driver side as needed. 4. Install 10mm fasteners into existing weldnuts in frame rails; install 3/8" conical toothed washer and 3/8" nut through hitch plate and secure to hitch. 5. Torque all 10mm fasteners to 48 ft-lbs and all 3/8" fasteners to 45 ft-lbs. 6. Trim and reattach plastic underbody panel as shown if needed.
All non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by auxiliary stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound.
The Curt 11325 is designed for use with ballmount #55001 or #45501.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, Curt may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, the Curt 11325 is designed for Hyundai Sonata GL and GLS models.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing weldnuts in the frame rails.
You may need to notch the driver side bumper fascia and trim the plastic underbody panel as needed.
You will need a ratchet, 10mm long socket, 9/16" socket, 11/16" socket, torque wrench, pen/marker, aviation shears, and rotary tool.
Torque all 10mm fasteners to 48 ft-lbs and all 3/8" fasteners to 45 ft-lbs.
The hitch has a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, part 56247 is designed for Hyundai Sonata models, excluding Hybrid variants. If you own a Sonata Hybrid, this harness is not compatible.
The harness is rated for Signal Circuits at 3.0 amps per side and Tail/Running Circuits at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
You will need a panel trim removal tool and a Phillips screwdriver. You may also need a drill with a 3/32" bit if you need to create a pilot hole for the grounding screw, depending on whether a suitable existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame.
Yes. The first step of installation is to locate the vehicle's battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. This must be done before proceeding with any other installation steps.
The black converter box should be adhered to a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify an exact location, only that it should be mounted near the taillight.
Pull back the side trim panel to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the T-connector end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Not necessarily. First, locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no existing screw is available, you will need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw. The grounding point should be located near the taillight connector on a flat area of the vehicle frame that is free of rust, dirt and paint.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. This should be done after all other installation steps are complete and the battery has been reconnected.
All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. The manual does not provide detailed testing procedures beyond this.
1. Open the trunk and remove all trunk floor coverings. 2. Remove the fasteners securing the rear scuff panel and pull it out at the bottom then up. 3. Remove the push fastener and Phillips screw from the felt liner. 4. Pull back on the side trim panel to locate the taillight wiring harness connectors. Repeat this sequence on both the driver and passenger sides.
The driver side taillight wiring is located behind the driver side taillight housing, inside the trunk (P3). The passenger side taillight wiring is located behind the passenger side taillight housing, inside the trunk (P4). These are the two connection points for the yellow and green T-connector ends.
The T-connector end with the yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight. The T-connector end with the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight. The white ground wire is used for the grounding connection near the taillight connectors.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw.
No. The Curt 56247 is designed for Hyundai Sonata models excluding Hybrid variants.
Panel trim removal tool, Phillips screwdriver, and optionally a drill with 3/32" bit if no existing grounding point is available.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Only if no existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame for grounding. If drilling is needed, a 3/32" pilot hole is required.
3/32" pilot hole.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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