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2011 - 2015 Mazda 2
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LBS |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | PWM-STT |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2015 | Mazda 2 | — |
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity is 2,000 lbs. Tongue weight (TW) capacity is 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The kit includes 4 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 UNC, 1-1/2"), 4 serrated flange nuts (7/16"-14 UNC), and 4 square-hole spacers (0.25" × 0.88" × 2.25"). The manual also references 4 fishwire tools included with the product.
Required tools: ratchet, die grinder, 10mm and 17mm sockets, socket extension (6"), flathead screwdriver, exhaust removal pliers (or 5/8" open-end wrench as alternative), torque wrench, and 7/16" fishwire (4 included). A full tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. If exhaust removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench instead. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
Moderate. Installation difficulty is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. Remove four rivets from the underbody panel using a flathead screwdriver, then use a 10mm socket to remove two screws. Depress a small plastic tab to release the panel from the vehicle. The panel should be returned to the vehicle owner after installation.
The exhaust does not need to be fully removed, but it must be lowered. Remove the four rearmost rubber hangers (two on each side) to lower the exhaust. Be sure to support the exhaust before removing the hangers. The exhaust is reinstalled in Step 8 after the hitch is mounted.
Yes. The access hole in each frame rail must be enlarged to approximately 1" diameter using a die grinder. This is required to allow the fishwire and hardware to pass through during installation.
Yes. The heat shield must be bent slightly away from the mounting area to avoid interference during installation. This is a minor modification performed in Step 4.
All 7/16" hardware (carriage bolts and serrated flange nuts) must be torqued to 59 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
The fishwire guides the 7/16" carriage bolts and square-hole spacers through the frame rail access holes without losing them inside the frame. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the spacer and thread the bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. Leave the fishwire attached during hitch positioning, then remove it before securing with serrated flange nuts.
1. Remove underbody panel (rivets and screws). 2. Lower exhaust by removing four rearmost rubber hangers; support exhaust. 3. Enlarge access holes in frame rails to approximately 1" diameter using die grinder. 4. Bend heat shield away from mounting area. 5. Use fishwire to guide 7/16" carriage bolts with spacers through access holes; leave fishwire attached. 6. Raise hitch into position, feed fishwire through hitch slots, remove fishwire, and secure with serrated flange nuts. 7. Torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs. 8. Raise exhaust and reinstall rubber hangers.
After using fishwire to guide the carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes, raise the hitch into position. Feed each fishwire through the slots in the hitch. Remove the fishwire from the carriage bolts and secure the hitch to the vehicle frame with serrated flange nuts. Be careful not to push the hardware into the frame during this process.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Support the exhaust before removing the rubber hangers to prevent it from dropping. Be careful not to push hardware into the frame during hitch mounting. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval; contact CURT Product Support at 877.287.8634 for recommended maintenance schedules.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs. with 200 lbs. tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Yes. The 56435 is designed for both sedan and hatchback passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Installation steps differ between body styles: hatchbacks follow steps 3A through 7A, and sedans follow steps 3B through 7B. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm the electrical system type before installation.
Signal circuits are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 10 mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and electrical tape. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and before testing the harness.
Open the vehicle trunk and remove the floor covering, rear cargo area cover, and both side covers. Remove the fasteners securing the rear scuff panel, then remove the scuff panel by pulling out on the bottom and then up. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back.
The custom wiring end with the yellow wire connects between the separated driver-side taillight connectors. The custom wiring end with the green wire connects between the separated passenger-side taillight connectors. Both connectors must be fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the original connectors.
On the driver side, locate a flat spot behind the trunk liner. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Ensure the surface is clean and dry before applying the tape for best adhesion.
12 gauge (12 GA) wire or larger is used for the power lead from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route this wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
A 15-amp maximum fuse is required. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp fuse holder. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Green = Right turn; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn; Brown = Taillight. These wires connect to the corresponding vehicle taillight circuits. If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. Drill a 3/32-inch hole if necessary. Ensure a clean, bare metal connection for proper grounding.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire from being damaged and causing electrical shorts or fire.
Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Route the black power wire to the vehicle battery location using cable ties to secure it to the vehicle chassis, keeping it away from pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms all circuits are working before final use.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat connector dust cover regularly to ensure it is in place and preventing corrosion.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with yellow, green, red, and brown signal wires; a black converter box; a white ground wire with ring terminal; a black power wire; a 4-flat connector with dust cover; double-sided tape for mounting the converter box; cable ties for securing wires; a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse; and a mounting screw for the ground wire.
The 56435 fits passenger cars (sedans and hatchbacks) with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system type. Different installation steps apply to sedans versus hatchbacks.
You will need: ratchet, panel trim removal tool, 10 mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and electrical tape.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and before testing.
A 15-amp maximum fuse is required for the battery connection. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
12 gauge (12 GA) wire or larger is used for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter.
First, verify that the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal through the 15-amp fuse holder, and that the white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle body with good metal-to-metal contact. Confirm that the yellow wire is fully inserted with locking tabs in place at the driver-side taillight connector, and the green wire is fully inserted at the passenger-side taillight connector. Test using a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. Check that the negative battery terminal is reconnected. Inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections.
The manual warns to take care not to damage the locking tabs when separating the original taillight connectors from the taillight housing. If tabs are damaged, the connectors may not stay fully inserted, causing intermittent or complete loss of function. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or a professional installer for repair or replacement of the damaged connector assembly, as the manual does not provide a repair procedure.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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