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| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2017 | Nissan JUKE | AWD, excluding Nismo |
Yes, CURT part number 11302 is designed for 2011 Nissan Juke FWD models. However, it does not fit NISMO variants. Confirm your vehicle is FWD and not NISMO before purchasing.
No. CURT part number 11302 is designed for 2011 Nissan Juke FWD models excluding NISMO. NISMO variants are not compatible with this hitch.
The CURT 11302 has a gross load capacity of 2000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
Non-trailer loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on stabilizing straps.
Required tools include: torque wrench, ratchet, 3/4" socket, die grinder, pry bar, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce installation time.
Yes. The first installation step is to lower the vehicle exhaust by removing the rubber isolator from the muffler. This provides access to the mounting holes. After installation is complete, the exhaust is raised back into position.
No drilling is required. However, you must enlarge an existing hole under the driver side frame rail from its current size to 1" using a die grinder. This enlargement provides access to the attachment holes.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the installation, having a second person will help, particularly when raising the hitch into position.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft.-lbs. This applies to the carriage bolts and flange nuts used to secure the hitch to the frame and tow loop.
The fishwire tool is used to thread the 1 3/4" carriage bolts with CM-SP6 spacers through the access hole and out through the mounting holes. The fishwires are then removed once the hitch is raised into position and the bolts are secured with flange nuts.
Two types of spacers are used: CM-SP6 (.250 x 1.00 x 3.00") and CM-SP12 (.250 x 1.00 x 2.00"). The CM-SP6 spacers are placed with the 1 3/4" carriage bolts during fishwiring. The CM-SP12 spacer is placed on the bottom of the tow loop under the 2" carriage bolt.
If the exhaust hanger rod interferes with the side bracket, it may be necessary to bend the hanger rod slightly inboard. This is noted as a potential adjustment during the installation process.
The CURT 11302 is designed for use with ballmount #D-20/45520. Euro mount options are also available: #45561 (1 7/8" ball) and #45562 (2" ball).
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Regular inspection will help maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Yes, the CURT 11302 is designed for 2011 Nissan Juke FWD models (excluding NISMO).
2000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque wrench, ratchet, 3/4" socket, die grinder, pry bar, and safety glasses.
No drilling required, but you must enlarge an existing hole under the driver side frame rail to 1" using a die grinder for access.
Yes, lower the exhaust by removing the rubber isolator from the muffler before installation. Raise it back after installation is complete.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 ft.-lbs.
Non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, part number 56124 is designed for the Nissan Juke. The installation involves accessing the vehicle's taillight wiring harnesses located behind the rear trim panels.
You must remove the lift gate, spare tire cover, foam storage tray, spare tire, and rear scuff panel. You will also need to pull out the rear trim panels on the driver and passenger sides to access the taillight wiring harnesses.
The kit includes a T-Connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, double-sided tape, cable ties, a white ground wire with ring terminal, and a screw for grounding.
You may need a drill with a 3/32" bit if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw and nut is not available on the vehicle's frame. Otherwise, no special tools are mentioned in the installation instructions.
Drilling is not always required. You should first locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. Only if no existing point is available should you drill a 3/32" hole to secure the white ground wire.
If drilling is necessary, drill a 3/32" hole. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and screw provided in the kit.
Before drilling, verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface will not be damaged. Drilling into hidden components can cause damage and/or personal injury.
On the driver side, separate the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the T-Connector end with the green wire, routing it across under the removed rear scuff panel.
The manual does not specify the function of the yellow and green wires. The yellow wire end connects on the driver side and the green wire end connects on the passenger side. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for wire function details.
Adhere the black converter box to the frame of the vehicle using the double-sided tape provided in the kit.
Route the 4-flat wire out from under the rear trim panel to the center of the vehicle. When in use, extend the 4-flat from the hatch. When not in use, roll it up and store it in an out-of-the-way location in the rear cargo area.
Yes. After connecting the T-Connector, secure any loose parts of the T-Connector with the cable ties provided in the kit.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and screw provided. If no existing point is available, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the ground wire to it.
Reinstall all items that were removed during installation: the rear scuff panel, spare tire, foam storage tray, spare tire cover, and lift gate.
Yes, the Curt 56124 is designed for the Nissan Juke.
Remove the lift gate, spare tire cover, foam storage tray, spare tire, rear scuff panel, and access the rear trim panels on both sides.
Only if no existing grounding point is available. If needed, drill a 3/32" hole for the ground wire.
The kit includes a T-Connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, a black converter box, double-sided tape, cable ties, a white ground wire with ring terminal, and a grounding screw.
Verify that miscellaneous items hidden behind or under surfaces will not be damaged by drilling.
Separate the vehicle's taillight connectors on each side and insert the T-Connector ends (yellow on driver side, green on passenger side) between them, ensuring locking tabs are fully engaged.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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