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2011 - 2017 Nissan Quest
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 300 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 500 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2017 | Nissan Quest | — |
The 11-17 Nissan Quest 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2059 (Part #HBCW2059) fits 2011-2017 Nissan Quest models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 11-17 Nissan Quest 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2059 (Part #HBCW2059) is designed to fit the 2011-2017 Nissan Quest.
The 11-17 Nissan Quest 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2059 (Part #HBCW2059) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2017 Nissan Quest. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 11-17 Nissan Quest 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2059 (Part #HBCW2059) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt part number 13563 is designed for the Nissan Quest. This is a receiver hitch installation for that vehicle.
The manual specifies gross load capacity ratings for both weight carrying and weight distribution modes, but the specific capacity values are not filled in on this copy of the installation document. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for the exact towing and tongue weight capacities. Always verify that your vehicle's towing capacity does not exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended limit.
The hitch weight specification is not filled in on this copy of the installation manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for the exact hitch weight.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing weldnuts in the vehicle frame for fastening.
Yes. You must remove the plastic rivets that fasten the bumper fascia tabs to the back of the vehicle. To remove them, use a screwdriver to remove the center of the rivet, or push down on the center piece from the top side. Keep these rivets—you will reinstall them after the hitch is installed.
Yes, the exhaust must be lowered to provide clearance for the hitch. You will remove the rubber from the muffler hanger and loosen the two nuts that secure the exhaust hanger bracket to the chassis ahead of the muffler, adjacent to the rear axle. After the hitch is installed, you will lift the exhaust back into position and reinstall the hangers.
Pull and hold the muffler to the side, then remove the screw attaching the ground strap to the passenger side frame rail and keep it. Remove the two screws that attach the aluminum heat shield to the frame. Return the heat shield and its screws to the customer. After the hitch is installed, reinstall the ground strap and screw.
The kit includes 6 hex tap bolts (part number 10-10277) and 6 conical toothed washers (part number 30-00149, size 1/2 inch). These are 12mm fasteners that attach the hitch to the existing weldnuts in the vehicle frame.
All 12mm fasteners (hex bolts and conical toothed washers) must be torqued to 86 lb.-ft. Install them loosely first, then torque them to this specification after the hitch is raised into place.
Position the hitch toward the driver side to allow maximum muffler clearance. This positioning is important to avoid interference with the exhaust system.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, Curt may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection is essential for safe towing.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The Curt 13563 has its own gross load capacity ratings, but your vehicle's manufacturer limit is the controlling factor. Verify both the hitch capacity and your vehicle's capacity before towing.
Yes, the Curt 13563 is designed for the Nissan Quest.
No. The hitch uses existing weldnuts in the frame.
Yes to both. You must remove plastic rivets from the bumper fascia and lower the exhaust by removing the muffler hanger rubber and loosening the exhaust bracket nuts.
Six 12mm hex tap bolts and six conical toothed washers (1/2 inch).
Torque all 12mm fasteners to 86 lb.-ft.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 55570 custom wiring harness is designed for the Nissan Quest. The harness connects to the vehicle's taillight wiring behind the driver and passenger side taillight housings.
The Curt 55570 is a custom wiring harness that integrates with your Nissan Quest's taillight system to provide trailer lighting connections. It includes a converter box that processes the vehicle's taillight signals and a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
You need a panel trim removal tool. If a suitable grounding point with an existing screw is not available, you will also need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole, which requires a drill with a 3/32" bit.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a black converter box, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a 10-amp fuse for the 'TOW LAMP' fuse slot, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat dust cover.
The manual does not specify whether battery disconnection is required. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult your vehicle owner's manual for this information.
Open the tailgate and remove the side access panel. Partially remove the rear trim panels by removing the plastic wing nuts holding them in place. Remove the scuff panel by pulling out at the bottom and then up, taking care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back. The taillight wiring harness connectors will be visible behind these panels.
Locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors behind the rear trim panels. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire. Also insert the custom wiring harness power wire into its mating connector located next to the vehicle wiring harness.
Drilling is required only if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw is not available near the taillight connector. If drilling is necessary, you will drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and dry for proper adhesion.
The 'TOW LAMP' fuse slot is located in the fuse box next to the battery. Insert the provided 10-amp fuse into this slot.
The Curt 55570 has the following circuit ratings: Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Additionally, before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes, the Curt 55570 custom wiring harness is designed for the Nissan Quest.
A panel trim removal tool is required. A drill with a 3/32" bit is needed only if no existing grounding screw is available.
Drilling is required only if a suitable grounding point with an existing screw is not available. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole.
A 10-amp fuse is required and must be inserted into the 'TOW LAMP' fuse slot in the fuse box next to the battery.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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