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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 150 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 1,500 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 2W/PWM |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2011 - 2019 | Ford Fiesta | Hatchback |
Yes, the 11-19 Ford Fiesta Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW927 (Part #HBCW927) is designed to fit the 2011-2019 Ford Fiesta.
The 11-19 Ford Fiesta Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW927 (Part #HBCW927) fits 2011-2019 Ford Fiesta models. The 2019 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 11-19 Ford Fiesta Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW927 (Part #HBCW927) fits the following vehicles: 2011-2019 Ford Fiesta. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 11-19 Ford Fiesta Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW927 (Part #HBCW927) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 11067 is designed for Ford Fiesta Hatchback models from 2011 to current, including the ST variant. Confirm your vehicle year and body style match before purchasing.
The hitch has a gross load capacity of 1,500 lbs trailer weight and 150 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The installation requires lowering the exhaust by removing two rubber isolators from the hangers attached to the frame. The hitch is then raised over the exhaust and slid past the exhaust hanger. After installation, the exhaust is raised back into position. No permanent modification to the exhaust is required.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing frame holes for mounting.
Yes, the heat shield must be trimmed. Remove the three fasteners securing the heat shield, mark and trim it according to the heat shield trim diagram (approximately 2.00 inches, though dimensions are approximate), then reattach using the same fasteners. Confirm fit prior to trimming.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 9-inch extension, 10mm socket, 11/16-inch socket, and aviation shears. Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
The kit includes: four 7/16-14 UNC 1-1/4 inch grade 8 carriage bolts (part 10-10281), four 7/16-14 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (part 20-00103), four 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50 inch square hole spacers (part CM-SP11), and two 7/16-inch fishwires (part 7_16 FISHWIRE).
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
All 7/16-inch hardware must be torqued to 59 ft-lbs.
1. Lower the exhaust by removing two rubber isolators from the frame hangers. 2. Remove three fasteners securing the heat shield and remove it. 3. Mark and trim the heat shield, then reattach using the same fasteners. 4. Fishwire a 7/16-14 x 1-1/4 inch carriage bolt and SP11 spacer through the rearmost frame hole and out the next hole toward the front on both sides. 5. Reverse fishwire the same bolt and spacer into the rearmost hole on both sides. 6. Raise the hitch over the exhaust and slide it past the exhaust hanger, then secure using 7/16-14 flange nuts. 7. Torque all 7/16-inch hardware to 59 ft-lbs. 8. Raise the exhaust back into position.
Fishwire is a technique to guide fasteners through frame holes without losing them inside the frame rails. For the 11067, you thread a 7/16-14 x 1-1/4 inch carriage bolt and CM-SP11 spacer through the rearmost hole in the frame and out the next hole toward the front on both sides. Then reverse the same bolt and spacer back into the rearmost hole on both sides. This allows you to position the hitch without losing bolts and spacers inside the frame.
All non-trailer loads (wheel-less loads) applied to this hitch must be supported by Curt 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. The manual recommends the use of 18050 stabilizing straps for all non-trailer loads.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While the hitch is rated for 1,500 lbs trailer weight and 150 lbs tongue weight, your Ford Fiesta's manufacturer specifications may be lower and must be followed.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection is critical to safe operation.
The hitch is designed for use with Curt ballmount part number 55001 or 45501. Euro mount options are also available: part number 45571 (1-7/8 inch ball) and part number 45572 (2 inch ball).
Yes. The manual explicitly states: before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. This will help you understand the complete process, required tools, and safety precautions.
Yes, the 11067 is designed for Ford Fiesta Hatchback models from 2011 to current, including the ST variant.
The hitch is rated for 1,500 lbs trailer weight and 150 lbs tongue weight, but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, no drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame holes.
Yes, the heat shield must be trimmed approximately 2.00 inches according to the trim diagram. Confirm fit before trimming, then reattach with the original fasteners.
You need a ratchet, torque wrench, 9-inch extension, 10mm socket, 11/16-inch socket, and aviation shears. Wear safety glasses throughout installation.
All 7/16-inch hardware must be torqued to 59 ft-lbs.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by Curt 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56064 is a custom wiring harness that connects your vehicle's taillight circuits to a 4-flat trailer connector. It includes a converter box that processes the vehicle's taillight signals and outputs them to the trailer connector for towing.
The Curt 56064 is designed for Ford Fiesta hatchback and Lincoln MKS models. If you own one of these vehicles, the harness is compatible. For other makes and models, you will need a different part number.
You will need a panel trim removal tool. The manual also mentions the possibility of drilling a 3/32" pilot hole if a suitable existing screw is not available for the ground wire connection, so a drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed.
The harness includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow and green wire ends, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a black converter box, a provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for the converter box, a 4-flat dust cover, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
The manual does not explicitly state whether the battery must be disconnected. However, it does require that the battery connection be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Consult the included CME-PCL-INS sheet or contact Curt Manufacturing for specific battery disconnection requirements.
Open the trunk and remove the rear scuff panel. Partially remove the felt trunk liner behind both taillight housings by removing several plastic fasteners. Behind the trunk liner you will locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors.
Separate the vehicle taillight connectors from the housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors on the driver side. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The manual does not specify whether this adhesive is permanent or removable.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route it to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Drilling is not always required. The manual instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. Only if no suitable existing screw is available should you drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Signal Circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running Circuits: 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Yellow wire: connects to the driver side taillight connector. Green wire: connects to the passenger side taillight connector. White wire: ground wire with ring terminal that must be secured to a suitable grounding point. Black wire: power wire from the vehicle battery that must be routed through a rubber grommet in the trunk area if possible.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. If no suitable existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet. Route the black wire through a rubber grommet in the trunk area if possible. The manual does not provide detailed routing instructions; refer to the CME-PCL-INS sheet for specific guidance.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw.
Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation, including the rear scuff panel and felt trunk liner. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
Yes, the Curt 56064 is designed for Ford Fiesta hatchback and Lincoln MKS models.
You need a panel trim removal tool. A drill with 3/32" bit may be needed if no existing screw is available for grounding.
10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Check for miscellaneous items hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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