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Authorized Dealer| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2012 - 2017 | Cadillac Cadillac | Excluding dual exhaust |
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Yes, the 12-17 Cadillac CADILLAC Excluding dual exhaust 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW219 (Part #HBCW219) is designed to fit the 2012-2017 Cadillac Cadillac.
The 12-17 Cadillac CADILLAC Excluding dual exhaust 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW219 (Part #HBCW219) fits the following vehicles: 2012-2017 Cadillac Cadillac. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 12-17 Cadillac CADILLAC Excluding dual exhaust 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW219 (Part #HBCW219) fits 2012-2017 Cadillac Cadillac models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 12-17 Cadillac CADILLAC Excluding dual exhaust 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW219 (Part #HBCW219) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 11311 is designed for 2013-present Cadillac ATS in both sedan and coupe body styles. Verify your vehicle matches this specification before purchasing.
The CURT 11311 is rated for a maximum of 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower. Check your vehicle's owner manual for the final towing limit.
The CURT 11311 is designed for use with ballmount #45022 (D-230). Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball).
Required tools include: T-15 Torx bit socket, ratchet, socket set (7mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 3/4"), pry bar, spray lubricant, cut-off wheel, tape measure, marker, aviation shears, and a torque wrench. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the job, having a second person is recommended, particularly when raising the hitch and exhaust into position simultaneously in step 9.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing holes in the vehicle frame. However, plastic fascia trimming and heat shield trimming are required.
Two areas require trimming: (1) the plastic fascia at the bottom of the vehicle must be trimmed approximately 1-3/8" on each side to allow hitch side plate reinstallation, and (2) the heat shield must be trimmed to allow access to both frame rails. The studs that secured the heat shield to the frame rails must also be cut off.
The exhaust system must be lowered but not fully removed. You must remove the exhaust hanger brackets (2 bolts on each side from the frame rails) and the rubber exhaust hangers (4 places on sedans, 3 places on coupes). The exhaust support strap may also need to be removed to allow the exhaust to hang lower. After hitch installation, the exhaust is raised back into position and the support strap is reattached.
Fishwiring is a technique where the 1/2" carriage bolts and spacer blocks are threaded up through slots in the vehicle frame and down through the attaching holes in the hitch side plates. This allows the bolts to be positioned correctly before the hitch is raised into final position. The fishwire (a flexible wire guide) helps guide the bolts through the frame slots from below.
All 1/2" hardware (the carriage bolts and flange hex nuts) must be torqued to 110 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening.
The kit includes: (4) 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts, 1-1/2" long (part 10-10287); (4) 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 serrated flange hex nuts (part 20-00062); (4) 0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP6); and (4) 1/2" x 30" fishwire (part 1_2 x 30 FISHWIRE). Additionally, (6) heat shield nuts are retained from vehicle removal for reinstallation.
There are 14 screws that secure the plastic fascia to the bottom of the vehicle. On coupe models, these fasteners are removed with a 7mm socket.
There are 8 nuts that secure the heat shield to the vehicle. After removal, 6 of these nuts must be retained for reinstallation after the heat shield is trimmed.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Refer to the CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for further information on these straps.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty.
Yes, the CURT 11311 is designed for 2013-present Cadillac ATS sedans and coupes. Maximum towing capacity is 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended limit.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame holes. However, you must trim the plastic fascia (approximately 1-3/8" each side) and the heat shield, and cut off the heat shield studs from the frame rails.
You need: T-15 Torx socket, ratchet, socket set (7mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 3/4"), pry bar, spray lubricant, cut-off wheel, tape measure, marker, aviation shears, torque wrench, and safety glasses.
The exhaust must be lowered but not fully removed. Remove the hanger brackets and rubber hangers, and possibly the support strap. After hitch installation, raise the exhaust back into position and reattach the support strap.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 110 lb-ft using a torque wrench.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty. See www.curtmfg.com for details.
Periodically verify that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56180 T-Connector wiring harness is designed for the Cadillac ATS. The manual covers installation on this vehicle model.
The Curt 56180 is a T-Connector wiring harness with a converter module that integrates with your Cadillac ATS taillight wiring to provide trailer lighting control. It includes a converter box that processes the vehicle's lighting signals and outputs a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
The manual does not explicitly require battery disconnection before installation. However, the installation does involve connecting a power wire from the battery with a 10 amp fuse. For safety, consider disconnecting the battery before working with electrical connections, or consult the vehicle manufacturer's guidance.
Open the trunk and remove: all trunk floor covers, the rear scuff panel (by removing two cargo loops and pulling out at the bottom and up at the top), and plastic fasteners holding the felt trunk liner in place on both sides. You will pull back the felt trunk liner to access the taillight wiring harness connectors but do not need to fully remove it.
On the driver's side, pull back the felt trunk liner to locate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the T-Connector end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the T-Connector end with the green wire.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. The manual instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" hole and secure the eyelet of the white ground wire using the provided screw. Always verify that miscellaneous items are not hidden behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
If an existing screw with nut is not available, drill a 3/32" hole to secure the eyelet of the white ground wire using the provided screw.
The Curt 56180 uses the following wire colours: yellow wire on the T-Connector end for the driver's side taillight connection, green wire on the T-Connector end for the passenger's side taillight connection, white wire for the ground connection, and black wire for the power connection from the battery.
The battery connection must be fuse protected at a maximum of 10 amps. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed the lower of your tow vehicle's lamp load rating or the product's signal circuit limit of 3.0 amps per side and tail/running light limit of 6.0 amps total.
The Curt 56180 has the following maximum amperage ratings: Signal circuits – 3.0 amps per side; Tail/Running Lights – 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the lower of your tow vehicle's lamp load rating. Exceeding these limits can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The converter module must be mounted inside the tow vehicle or in a protected area similar to a vehicle interior. Mount it on a flat spot behind the felt trunk liner using the double-sided tape provided. Failure to mount the module in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure including lamp malfunction, overheating and potential fire.
Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wires, particularly when routing the T-Connector end with the green wire to the passenger side behind the removed scuff panel.
Route the 4-flat connector out from under the felt trunk liner to the center of the vehicle when in use. Roll it up and store in an out-of-the-way location when not in use.
Reinstall all items removed during installation: trunk floor covers, rear scuff panel, and plastic fasteners holding the felt trunk liner in place. Ensure the converter module is securely mounted, all connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place, and all wires are secured with cable ties.
The Curt 56180 includes: a T-Connector harness with yellow and green wire ends, a white ground wire with eyelet, a black power wire, a black converter box, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a screw for the ground wire connection, and cable ties for securing loose wires.
The manual does not specify required tools. However, based on the installation steps, you will likely need: a drill with a 3/32" bit (if drilling is required for the ground wire), a screwdriver (to remove trunk components and secure the ground wire), and possibly a wrench or socket (if tightening the ground wire screw to an existing frame screw with nut). Consult the included CME-PCL-INS sheet for battery connection routing details.
Yes, the Curt 56180 is designed for the Cadillac ATS.
10 amps maximum. Exceeding this rating can cause overheating and fire.
Inside the vehicle or in a protected area similar to a vehicle interior. Mounting it outside can cause product failure, lamp malfunction, overheating and fire.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running lights: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these or your vehicle's lamp load rating.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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