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Complete CURT Class 2 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2013 - 2016 Ford Escape Excluding SE models. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next checkpoint is on your adventure -- whether it's getting your bike on the trail before sunrise or making it to the campground before dark -- CURT class 2 hitches let you Bring It with confidence. These receiver hitches are made to handle most light-duty towing applications and offer a custom fit for your vehicle. Typically used on full-size cars, crossovers, compact SUVs, minivans or even compact pickup trucks, a CURT class 2 trailer hitch complements the design of smaller vehicles. This particular class 2 hitch is made to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Ford Escape (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It offers a weight carrying capacity of 3,500 lbs. GTW and 350 lbs. TW. Class 2 trailer hitches can typically be used to tow a variety of lightweight trailers, such as a small utility trailer, small fishing boat trailer or popup camper (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). They are also perfect for adding cargo space to your vehicle with a bike rack or cargo carrier. This class 2 hitch features a 1-1/4" receiver tube to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch-mounted accessory. For safety, it is tested in accordance with SAE J684. A custom trailer hitch design requires extra care, and as such, CURT class 2 hitches are engineered using real vehicles and hands-on research. We use high-strength steel, robotic welding and rigorous testing to produce hitches that are built to fit your lifestyle. To ensure that each hitch will be a reliable extension of your vehicle, we also finish our hitches in a co-curing of liquid A-coat and black powder coat, giving them long-lasting rust and wear resistance.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Ford Escape (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2016 | Ford Escape | Excluding SE models |
The 13 - 16 Ford Escape Excluding SE models Curt 1-1/4" Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 12111 (Part #5W-CHW-962) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2016 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 13 - 16 Ford Escape Excluding SE models Curt 1-1/4" Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 12111 (Part #5W-CHW-962) fits 2013-2016 Ford Escape models. The 2016 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 13 - 16 Ford Escape Excluding SE models Curt 1-1/4" Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 12111 (Part #5W-CHW-962) is designed to fit the 2013-2016 Ford Escape.
The 13 - 16 Ford Escape Excluding SE models Curt 1-1/4" Class 2 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 12111 (Part #5W-CHW-962) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the CURT 12111 is designed for 2013-Present Ford Escape SUVs. It is a weight-carrying hitch with a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The CURT 12111 has a gross load capacity of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The hitch weight is 80 lbs.
You will need: torque wrench, ratchet, 6" extension, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, 11/16" socket, die grinder, aviation shears, and safety glasses. Proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Professional installation takes approximately 45 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation takes approximately 80 minutes.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning installation.
Yes. You must enlarge the access holes to allow 7/16" carriage bolts to pass through. A die grinder is required for this task.
Yes. You must trim the portion of the heat shield covering the mounting areas of the driver and passenger side frame rails. See the heat shield trim diagram in the manual. After trimming, re-attach the heat shield to the bottom of the driver side.
Yes. You must temporarily lower the exhaust by removing the four 8mm bolts from the muffler brackets and the forward rubber isolator. Return the four 8mm bolts to the vehicle owner. The rubber isolator is re-attached after the hitch is secured.
The hitch includes: 6 bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-1/2", Grade 8), 4 hex cap screws (M8x1.25, 30mm, Class 10.9), 6 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8), 4 flat washers (5/16"), 6 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.00 x 2.00"), and 6 pieces of 7/16" fishwire.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs. Torque all M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs.
1. Lower exhaust by removing four 8mm bolts from muffler brackets and rubber isolator. 2. Remove one fastener from heat shield and trim the portion covering mounting areas; re-attach. 3. Enlarge access holes for 7/16" carriage bolts. 4. Fishwire the carriage bolts and spacers through enlarged holes and rear-most mounting holes. 5. Slide hitch in from rear passenger side over exhaust, feeding fishwires through mounting holes. 6. Remove fishwires and loosely secure with 7/16" flange nuts; pull fishwires through side mounting holes and loosely secure. 7. Re-attach muffler brackets using M8 hex bolts and 5/16" washers. 8. Torque 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs and M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs. 9. Re-attach rubber isolator.
Fishwire is a flexible wire included with the hitch that helps guide the carriage bolts and spacers through the enlarged access holes and out the rear-most mounting holes on both sides. You thread the fishwire through the holes, then use it to pull the bolts and spacers into position. The fishwire should be left attached to prevent loss into the frame rails, and the side fasteners should be pushed back into the frame rail before raising the hitch into position.
Fasteners should be loosely secured initially. After removing the fishwires from the carriage bolts in the bottom of the frame rails, loosely secure the hitch with 7/16" flange nuts. Pull the fishwires through the side mounting holes and loosely secure them with 7/16" flange nuts. Only after the muffler brackets are re-attached should you torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs and all M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs.
The four 8mm bolts removed from the muffler brackets and rubber isolator in Step 1 are returned to the vehicle owner and not reused. The muffler brackets are re-attached using the provided M8-1.25 hex bolts and 5/16" washers.
The CURT 12111 is designed for use with ball mount 45518. Euro mount options are also available: 45551 (1-7/8") and 45552 (2").
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify the exact interval for these checks.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, it fits 2013-Present Ford Escape SUVs. Towing capacity is 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight, but do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque wrench, ratchet, 6" extension, 10mm/13mm/11/16" sockets, die grinder, aviation shears, and safety glasses.
Yes, you must enlarge the access holes to allow 7/16" carriage bolts to pass through using a die grinder. You must also trim the heat shield covering the mounting areas.
Yes, you must temporarily lower the exhaust by removing four 8mm bolts from the muffler brackets and rubber isolator. The rubber isolator is re-attached after installation.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs and all M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs.
The hitch supports 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight, but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids the warranty.
Yes, the Curt 56335 is designed for Ford Escape vehicles in the SUV category. The manual confirms it is a custom wiring harness for this application.
The Curt 56335 is a custom wiring harness that connects to your Ford Escape's taillight wiring to provide trailer lighting control. It includes a converter box and a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
You will need: 8mm socket, T-25 Torx bit, ratchet, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool. These are required to remove panels, disconnect fasteners, and route the wiring.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any installation work.
The installation follows this sequence: (1) disconnect battery, (2) remove trunk coverings and storage trays, (3) remove rear scuff panel, (4) remove driver side trim panel, (5) remove taillight cover and fasteners, (6) disconnect taillight connectors, (7) modify grommet, (8) route yellow and red wires through grommet and insert into connectors, (9) reseal grommet, (10) ground white wire, (11) mount converter box, (12) repeat steps 4–9 on passenger side with green wire, (13) route power wire from battery, (14) secure loose wires, (15) reinstall removed items and reconnect battery.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. Step 10 states you should locate an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame for grounding, but if none is suitable, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. You must also check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes. Step 7 requires you to locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle taillight wiring passes through, remove it, and cut a slit large enough to route the custom wiring harness through. Step 9 then requires you to reseat the grommet and seal the cut using the provided sealant.
The harness includes: yellow wire (connects to driver side taillight 2-pin connectors), red wire (connects to driver side taillight 3-pin connectors), green wire (connects to passenger side taillight connectors), white wire (ground connection), and black wire (power connection from vehicle battery). Each wire is routed through the grommet and inserted between the separated factory connectors.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a maximum 10-amp fuse. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. The area should be checked for hidden items before drilling.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. This is done after the driver side wiring is complete and before routing the harness to the passenger side.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The manual specifies that you must reseat the grommet using the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires, but does not name the specific sealant type. Refer to any included materials or contact the manufacturer for the exact sealant product.
After installation is complete, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly.
Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. This is done during the final reinstallation step after all other work is complete.
Yes. Step 5 requires you to locate and remove the cover on the taillight assembly, then remove the two 8mm screws securing the taillight and gently pull the light straight back. This must be done on both driver and passenger sides to access the taillight wiring connectors.
You must remove: trunk floor coverings, storage trays, the rear scuff panel (using Torx and push fasteners), and the driver and passenger side trim panels to access the taillight wiring harness. The scuff panel should be pulled out at the bottom first, then up, taking care not to damage the alignment tabs.
Separate the factory taillight connectors from the taillight housing. Route the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire through the grommet and insert it between the separated 2-pin connectors. Route the red wire between the 3-pin connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side using the green wire.
Yes, the Curt 56335 is designed for Ford Escape vehicles.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a maximum 10-amp fuse. Do not exceed this rating.
You will need: 8mm socket, T-25 Torx bit, ratchet, socket extension, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and cutting tool.
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