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2013 - 2017 Audi Q5
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2013 - 2017 Audi Q5. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Audi Q5 and SQ5 (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 5,000 lbs. GTW and 750 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Audi Q5 (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2017 | Audi Q5 | — |
Yes, the 13 - 17 Audi Q5 Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13499 (Part #5W-CHW-68) is designed to fit the 2013-2017 Audi Q5.
The 13 - 17 Audi Q5 Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13499 (Part #5W-CHW-68) fits 2013-2017 Audi Q5 models. The 2017 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 13 - 17 Audi Q5 Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13499 (Part #5W-CHW-68) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2017 Audi Q5. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 13 - 17 Audi Q5 Curt 2" Class 3 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 13499 (Part #5W-CHW-68) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 13499 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 5,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years the 13499 is designed for. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket, 16mm socket, 17mm socket, T-20 torx bit socket, T-25 torx bit socket, 6" socket extension, and trim panel pry tool. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar are also helpful for removing exhaust hangers. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
You must temporarily remove the bumper fascia and bumper beam. This requires removing multiple screws from the bumper fascia, wheel well lining, wheel well trim, trunk floor, and trunk edge trim, plus nuts and bolts securing the bumper beam to the frame. All components are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Remove four screws from the bottom of the bumper fascia using a T-25 torx bit socket. Additionally, remove one screw from the bottom inside of each rear wheel well (two screws total) using the same T-25 torx bit socket.
Pull away the wheel well lining to reveal six screws (three on each side). Remove each screw using a T-25 torx bit socket. Then pull the wheel well trim away to reveal one additional screw per side and remove using a T-25 torx bit socket.
Remove the trunk floor and use a trim panel pry tool to remove the trunk edge trim starting from the side. Open the liftgate to reveal two screws and remove using a T-20 torx bit socket. From inside the trunk, locate two rubber plugs (one on each side) and use the trim panel pry tool to remove them to access two nuts underneath; remove each nut using a 10mm socket.
Remove the access panel on both sides of the trunk to locate two nuts (one on each side). Remove the nuts using a 10mm socket.
After removing the bumper fascia, locate eight M10 bolts on the bumper beam and remove using a 16mm socket. Remove the bumper beam and bumper beam bracket together and set aside for reinstallation.
The hitch is secured with eight M10 hex bolts (#1) and eight conical-toothed washers (#2). The washers must be oriented with the conical teeth facing the vehicle frame. The bolts are torqued to 45 ft-lbs.
Torque the M10 mounting bolts to 45 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
The conical-toothed washers must be oriented with the conical teeth facing the vehicle frame, not the hitch. This is shown in the Assembly diagram on page 2.
Reinstall the bumper fascia by following Steps 1 through 7 in reverse order. This includes reinstalling the trunk edge trim, trunk floor, liftgate screws, wheel well trim and lining screws, rubber plugs, access panel nuts, and all bumper fascia screws.
To remove debris from weldnuts, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
If exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available, use a 5/8" open-end wrench to slide up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps with removal.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The CURT 13499 is rated as Difficult. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
To get copies of product warranties, register your purchase, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. You can also contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. You can also visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation for a tools reference guide.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 5,000 lbs; tongue weight capacity is 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. You must temporarily remove the bumper fascia and bumper beam. Both are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Torque the M10 mounting bolts to 45 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Perform periodic inspections to ensure all hardware remains tight.
The CURT 56404 is a custom trailer light harness designed for SUVs and Vans with rear lift gates. It integrates with the vehicle's factory taillight system to provide trailer lighting control. The harness connects to the vehicle's electrical system and outputs a 4-flat trailer connector. It requires a powered converter module to function and must be used on 12-volt negative ground systems only.
The CURT 56404 is designed for SUVs and Vans with rear lift gates. The harness uses wiring locations S9 and S10, which are behind the driver and passenger side rear access panels. Verify your vehicle has these access panels and a rear lift gate. The system requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or the vehicle manufacturer to confirm compatibility with your specific make and model.
The CURT 56404 must be used only on 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The converter system is designed specifically for this configuration and will not function on positive ground or other voltage systems.
Required tools are: ratchet, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bits (T-20 and T-15), wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, electrical tape, and flathead screwdriver. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The manual shows a Hardware Photo on page 1 but does not itemize the contents. Based on the instructions, the kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow, green, and black wires; a powered converter module; a 4-flat connector; cable ties; a 4-flat dust cover; a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse; double-sided tape for converter mounting; a ring terminal for ground connection; and a screw for ground attachment. Verify the contents of your kit match the Hardware Photo.
Yes. The negative battery terminal must be disconnected before beginning installation. In Step 2, lift the floor panel and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Be sure to fasten this wire down and away from the battery when completing the installation. The negative battery cable must also be disconnected before wiring the power wire to the converter.
In Step 1, open the rear lift gate and remove: all trunk floor coverings, the trunk storage tray, the sub-woofer housing (disconnect it first), and the spare tire (loosen the tie-down first). Set these items aside. Additional panels and trim will be removed during subsequent steps, but these are the initial removals required to access the battery and wiring routes.
In Step 10, open the battery compartment and locate a spot to mount the converter close enough to connect the power and ground wires. The converter is mounted using the provided double-sided tape. Do not connect the power and ground wires at this point; complete all other installation steps first.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Remove trunk items and disconnect battery; (2) Remove rear scuff panel and disconnect latch sensor; (3) Remove taillight access panels and fasteners; (4) Remove rear hatch trim and disconnect lift gate light and hatch close connectors; (5) Remove driver-side trim cover and access panel; (6) Remove weather stripping and side wall trim; (7) Mount converter near battery; (8) Route custom wiring harness from floor through side panels to lift gate hinge and to taillight connectors; (9) Connect custom wiring to driver-side taillight with yellow wire between factory harness; (10) Connect custom wiring with green wire to passenger-side taillight; (11) Reinstall all panels and connectors; (12) Route black power wire from battery to converter; (13) Connect ground wire; (14) Install fuse and test; (15) Reconnect negative battery terminal.
In Step 12, disconnect the driver-side factory wiring and install the custom wiring end with the yellow wire in between the factory harness. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully to avoid damaging the locking tabs. In Step 13, route the custom wiring with the green wire to the passenger-side taillight connectors and repeat the same process. The factory connectors remain in place; the custom harness wires are inserted between the factory harness and the taillight.
In Step 11, route the custom wiring ends along the floor to the driver-side access panel and up the side wall behind the vehicle side trim panels, along the removed weather stripping to the lift gate hinge. Then route the custom wiring along the lift gate hinge and out under the removed lift gate trim panel to the driver-side taillight connectors. Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wires while routing. When not in use, the 4-flat connector should be rolled up and stored in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk.
The custom wiring harness contains the following signal wires: Yellow = Left turn signal; Green = Right turn signal; Red = Brake signal; Brown = Taillight (running lights). The harness also includes a black power wire that connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal and a white ground wire that connects to the vehicle body. These colors match standard trailer lighting conventions.
Route the black 12 GA power wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Connect the black wire to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Install the fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse after all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. If necessary, drill a 3/32-inch hole to mount the ground connection. Ensure the ground connection is secure and makes good contact with the vehicle body.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. The fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse is provided. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 15-amp rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits (left turn, right turn, brake): 5.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits (taillight): 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
If necessary, drill a 3/32-inch hole to mount the ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body. Use the screw provided to secure the connection.
The harness will not function until all connectors and panels are reinstalled and the vehicle hatch is closed. The vehicle will not have functionality of taillights when the hatch is open. The hatch must be closed for trailer lights to function correctly. If the connectors and panels are not replaced, the taillight will not function and an error message will be shown on the vehicle dash display.
Route the 12 GA power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Ensure all panels are reinstalled, all connectors are plugged in, and the hatch is closed before testing. If the harness does not function, check that all connections are secure and the fuse is properly installed.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the harness, converter, power wire, ground connection, and all panel connections regularly. Tighten any loose connections and replace damaged wires or connectors immediately.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as Moderate. The installation involves removing multiple interior trim panels, routing wiring through the vehicle, making electrical connections, and drilling a hole for the ground wire. While the manual provides detailed step-by-step instructions, the complexity and the need for proper tools suggest that professional installation may be beneficial. Consult with a qualified installer if you are unsure about any step.
The CURT 56404 is designed for SUVs and vans with rear lift gates and uses wiring locations S9 and S10 (behind driver and passenger rear access panels). Verify your vehicle has these access panels and a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Contact CURT or your vehicle manufacturer to confirm fitment for your specific make and model.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. The negative battery cable must also be disconnected before wiring the power wire to the converter. Reconnect it after all other installation steps are complete.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding 15 amps can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Drilling may be required. You will need to drill a 3/32-inch hole for the ground wire connection to the vehicle body if an existing hole is not available. No other drilling is specified in the installation steps.
No. The harness will not function until all panels are reinstalled and the vehicle hatch is closed. The hatch must be closed for trailer lights to function correctly. If panels are not replaced, the taillight will not function and an error message will appear on the vehicle dash display.
First, verify that all connectors and panels are reinstalled and the vehicle hatch is closed. The harness will not function if the hatch is open or if panels are not replaced. Check that the negative battery terminal is reconnected. Verify that the 12-volt power wire is connected to the converter and the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal. Confirm that the fuse holder with a 15-amp fuse is properly installed. Test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. If the harness still does not function, check that all wiring connections are secure and that the yellow wire is properly inserted between the factory harness at the driver-side taillight and the green wire is properly connected at the passenger-side taillight.
An error message on the vehicle dash display indicates that the connectors and panels have not been properly reinstalled. Verify that all removed panels are reinstalled, all connectors (including the latch sensor and lift gate light connectors) are plugged in, and the vehicle hatch is closed. The harness will not function until all connectors and panels are reinstalled and the hatch is closed. If the error persists after reinstalling all panels and connectors, check that the custom wiring is properly connected to the factory taillight harness.
Yes, this is normal and expected behavior. The harness will not function when the hatch is open. The vehicle will not have functionality of taillights when the hatch is open. The hatch must be closed for trailer lights to function correctly. This is by design to prevent electrical issues when the hatch is open.
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