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2013 - 2018 Lexus ES300h
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| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | n/a |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2018 | Lexus ES300h | — |
The 13-18 Lexus ES300h 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1660 (Part #HBCW1660) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2018 Lexus ES300h. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 13-18 Lexus ES300h 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1660 (Part #HBCW1660) is designed to fit the 2013-2018 Lexus ES300h.
The 13-18 Lexus ES300h 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1660 (Part #HBCW1660) fits 2013-2018 Lexus ES300h models. The 2018 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 13-18 Lexus ES300h 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1660 (Part #HBCW1660) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 11362 is designed for 2013-Present Lexus ES 350 and ES 300h sedans. The hitch is a weight-carrying type with a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity before towing, as you must not exceed it.
The CURT 11362 is designed for use with ball mount D-55001 or 45501. A Euro mount option is also available with part numbers 45571 (1 7/8" ball) or 45572 (2" ball).
The CURT 11362 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
Required tools include: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm short and long, and 17mm sockets; ratchet; 6-inch extension; torque wrench; die grinder; aviator shears; masking tape; tape measure; screwdriver; and rubber isolator remover. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
Installation is rated as moderate difficulty. Two people may be required to ease installation. Professional installation takes approximately 60 minutes; novice DIY installation takes approximately 120 minutes. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer or call technical support at 877-287-8634.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual does not specify that two people are mandatory, but recommends their use to improve the quality of the install and reduce installation time.
No drilling is required. However, a die grinder is required to enlarge the existing large holes in the frame rails on each side to allow the carriage bolts and spacers to pass through. The heat shield must be trimmed as required to allow bolts to pass through. On single exhaust models, the underbody panel must be trimmed for the hitch to pass through.
No, you do not need to remove the exhaust system. However, you must lower the exhaust by 6-10 inches by removing rubber isolators and hanger brackets. The exhaust is then raised back into location and rubber isolators are reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Torque all 10mm fasteners to 56 lb-ft and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft.
The kit includes: 2 carriage bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-1/4", Grade 8, part 10-10281); 2 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, part 20-00103); 2 square hole spacers (0.250 x 0.88 x 2.25", part CM-SP2); and 2 pieces of 7/16" fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE). Existing fasteners from removed brackets and rubber isolators are reused.
After enlarging the frame rail holes with a die grinder, reverse fishwire the supplied bolts and spacers into the enlarged holes on each side using the two fishwires provided. This technique allows you to thread the fasteners through the holes without removing the frame rail.
The hitch is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight of 200 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these ratings.
Non-trailer loads (wheel-less loads) can be applied to this hitch, but they must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. CURT recommends the use of 18050 stabilizing straps for all non-trailer loads.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval or other maintenance procedures beyond this periodic inspection.
Single exhaust models require removal of 5 isolators (instead of 7 for dual exhaust), removal of 3 push-button fasteners and 3 plastic nuts (instead of 2 and 2), and removal of 1 additional screw from the driver side frame rail. Single exhaust models also require trimming of the underbody panel for the hitch to pass through, as shown in the diagrams. Dual exhaust models do not require this trimming.
Yes, you must remove the heat shield(s) using a 10mm socket to access the frame rails. After enlarging the frame rail holes, the heat shield is trimmed as required to allow bolts to pass through, then clamped between the hitch and the vehicle frame during final installation.
The fasteners removed from the tie down/exhaust hanger brackets in step 3 are reused to attach the hitch to the vertical flange and frame rail. The rubber isolators removed from the exhaust are also kept and reinstalled after the hitch is secured.
Yes, CURT 11362 fits 2013-Present Lexus ES 350 and ES 300h sedans. Maximum capacity: 2,000 lbs trailer weight, 200 lbs tongue weight. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity.
Required: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets; ratchet; 6-inch extension; torque wrench; die grinder; aviator shears; tape measure; screwdriver; rubber isolator remover; masking tape. Safety glasses required.
No drilling required. Die grinder needed to enlarge existing frame rail holes. Heat shield trimming required. Single exhaust models require underbody panel trimming.
Torque all 10mm fasteners to 56 lb-ft and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft.
Yes, but non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to use straps voids the warranty.
Professional installation: 60 minutes. Novice DIY installation: 120 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. No other maintenance procedures are specified in the manual.
Ensure the frame rail holes have been sufficiently enlarged with the die grinder to allow the carriage bolt and spacer to pass through. The holes must be large enough for the fasteners to be threaded through. If the holes are too small, use the die grinder to enlarge them further. If you continue to have difficulty, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
The heat shield should be trimmed as required to allow bolts to pass through. Trim additional material as needed to ensure the shield fits between the hitch and frame without interference. The shield should be clamped securely between the hitch and frame during final installation. If trimming does not resolve the issue, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
Ensure you have removed all required rubber isolators and hanger brackets. Remove 2 rubber isolators by each muffler, 1 hanger on the passenger side by the muffler, and 1-2 center isolators (leaving the isolator by the engine attached). The exhaust should lower 6-10 inches. If it does not lower sufficiently, verify all isolators and brackets have been removed and contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight. Retorque all 10mm fasteners to 56 lb-ft and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but regular inspection and tightening as needed will maintain hitch integrity.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56430 is a powered converter lead wiring harness designed to provide trailer lighting functions on passenger cars. It connects to the vehicle's taillight wiring and includes a converter box that processes signals for left turn (yellow wire), right turn (green wire), brake (red wire), and taillight (brown wire) functions. The system requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system and includes a 4-flat connector for trailer attachment.
The CURT 56430 is designed for passenger cars with rear taillights accessible from inside the trunk. The manual shows wiring locations P3 and P4 (behind driver and passenger side taillight housings inside the trunk) as the primary connection points. Verify your vehicle has accessible taillight connectors in the trunk before purchasing. Consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact CURT for specific vehicle compatibility.
Yes. The CURT 56430 is designed exclusively for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Do not use this converter on any other system type. Verify your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system before installation.
Required tools are: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, and electrical tape. These tools are needed to remove fasteners, disconnect battery, remove trunk panels, separate connectors, and prepare and secure wiring.
The kit includes: a custom wiring harness with yellow wire (driver side) and green wire (passenger side), a black converter box, a black power wire (12 GA), a white ground wire with ring terminal, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, cable ties, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a screw for the ground wire ring terminal, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Locate the battery using your vehicle owner's manual, disconnect the negative terminal, and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Reconnect the negative terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and the harness has been tested.
Remove the following in order: (1) floor coverings, (2) two cargo tie-downs from the trunk scuff panel using a 10mm socket, (3) three push fasteners from the rear scuff panel using a panel trim removal tool, then remove the scuff panel by pulling out at the bottom then up, (4) two push fasteners securing the trunk liner on the driver side using the panel trim removal tool, and (5) the cargo hook by pressing in on the two tabs and pulling away. Repeat steps 4–5 on the passenger side.
Starting on the driver side, pull back the trunk liner to locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wire harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire harness end.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight (on the driver side). Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Ensure the surface is clean and flat to allow the tape to bond properly.
Locate a suitable grounding point between the driver-side taillight wiring and the trunk opening. Use a 10mm socket to remove the existing grounding bolt. Clean the area of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. Ensure all items originally attached to this ground point remain attached, as removing them will cause electrical components to malfunction.
Route the 12 GA black power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or apply silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Route the 12 GA black power wire to the positive (+) battery terminal. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Do not connect the power wire until all other installation steps are complete. After all connections are made and tested, install the 10-amp fuse in the fuse holder as the final step.
Drilling may be required. The white ground wire uses a ring terminal that attaches to the vehicle body with a provided screw. If no existing hole is available at the grounding point, drill a 3/32" hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under the surface to avoid personal injury or property damage.
Signal circuits (left and right turn): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp fuse. Install the fuse in the provided fuse holder after all other installation steps are complete. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Yellow wire: left turn signal. Green wire: right turn signal. Red wire: brake signal. Brown wire: taillight/running light. The yellow and green harness ends connect to the driver and passenger side taillight connectors respectively. The red brake wire must be grounded if the converter is used as a powered module for a two-wire system.
The 4-flat connector is the trailer attachment point. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. A dust cover is provided to help prevent corrosion. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
The manual does not specify a tow rating for the CURT 56430. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact CURT for the specific tow capacity of your vehicle and this product.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not install the fuse until all other steps are complete and testing is successful. Once tested, reinstall all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check that the converter box remains securely adhered and that all cable ties are intact. Verify that the 4-flat connector dust cover is in place when not in use to prevent corrosion.
The CURT 56430 is designed for passenger cars with rear taillights accessible from inside the trunk. It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Verify your vehicle has accessible taillight connectors at locations P3 and P4 (behind driver and passenger side taillight housings inside trunk) before purchasing.
You need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, panel trim removal tool, and electrical tape. All other components including hardware, tape, cable ties, and fuse are included.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire. Reconnect it only after all installation steps are complete and the system has been tested.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire attachment. If no existing hole is available at the grounding point, drill a 3/32" hole. Check for items behind the surface before drilling to avoid injury or damage.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. The battery connection must be fuse-protected. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Yellow = left turn, Green = right turn, Red = brake, Brown = taillight. The yellow and green harness ends connect to driver and passenger side taillight connectors. The black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal.
Verify that all items originally attached to the grounding point (between the driver-side taillight wiring and trunk opening) remain attached after installation. If any items were removed or disconnected during the grounding process, they must be reattached. Loose or missing connections at the grounding point will cause electrical components to malfunction. Inspect the grounding bolt and ring terminal to ensure they are secure.
1. Verify the negative battery terminal is connected. 2. Check that the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. 3. Confirm the black power wire is securely connected to the positive (+) battery terminal with a ring terminal. 4. Verify the white ground wire ring terminal is securely attached to the grounding point and the area is clean of rust and paint. 5. Ensure the yellow and green harness connectors are fully inserted into the vehicle taillight connectors with locking tabs engaged. 6. Test with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to identify which circuit is not working. 7. Inspect all wires for visible damage or loose connections.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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