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2013 - 2019 Ford Escape
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2013 - 2019 | Ford Escape | — |
Yes, the 13-19 Ford Escape 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW814 (Part #HBCW814) is designed to fit the 2013-2019 Ford Escape.
The 13-19 Ford Escape 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW814 (Part #HBCW814) fits the following vehicles: 2013-2019 Ford Escape. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 13-19 Ford Escape 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW814 (Part #HBCW814) fits 2013-2019 Ford Escape models. The 2019 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 13-19 Ford Escape 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW814 (Part #HBCW814) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
CURT part number 13186 is designed for 2013-Present Ford Escape SUVs only. Verify your vehicle year and model match before purchasing. If you have a different year or model, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 to confirm fitment.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the CURT 13186 supports 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, it supports 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these ratings.
Required tools are: torque wrench, ratchet, 6-inch extension, 13mm socket, 10mm socket, 11/16-inch socket, die grinder, aviation shears, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential for final fastener tightening to the correct specifications (70 ft-lbs for 7/16-inch hardware and 23 ft-lbs for M8 hardware).
The manual does not mention battery disconnection. No electrical work is required for this hitch installation.
Two people may be required to ease installation. While one person may be able to complete the work, having a second person will help, particularly when sliding the hitch into position and managing the fishwire hardware.
Professional installation takes approximately 80 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation takes approximately 45 minutes. These times assume you have the required tools and follow all steps carefully.
The installation is rated as Moderate difficulty. The process involves temporary exhaust lowering, heat shield trimming, access hole enlargement, and fishwire hardware techniques. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer for assistance.
No new drilling is required. However, the existing access holes in the frame rails must be enlarged to allow 7/16-inch carriage bolts to pass through. This enlargement is done using a die grinder or aviation shears as part of Step 3 of the installation process.
Yes. You must remove one fastener securing the heat shield to the bottom of the driver side frame rail, then trim the portion of the heat shield covering the mounting areas of both the driver and passenger side frame rails. After trimming, re-attach the heat shield to the bottom of the driver side. A trim diagram is provided in the manual showing the hatched area to be removed (approximately 1 inch in the reference area shown).
Yes. You must temporarily lower the exhaust by removing four 8mm bolts from the muffler brackets and the forward rubber isolator in Step 1. These four 8mm bolts should be returned to the vehicle owner. The rubber isolator is re-attached in Step 9 after the hitch is fully installed and torqued.
The kit includes: 6 pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire, 6 carriage bolts (7/16-14 x 1.5 inches), 6 square hole spacers (CM-SP7, 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.00 inches), 6 hex flange nuts (7/16-14), 4 washers (5/16 inch), and 4 M8-1.25 x 30 hex head bolts. The four 8mm bolts removed from the muffler brackets are returned to the owner and not reused.
Fishwire is a technique to guide fasteners through frame rail access holes. In Step 4, you thread 7/16-inch carriage bolts and SP7 spacers through the enlarged access hole and out the two rear-most mounting holes on both sides. You then reverse-fishwire a carriage bolt and spacer back through the enlarged access hole on both sides. The fishwires are left attached to prevent loss into the frame rails and are removed in Step 6 when the hitch is in position and fasteners are being secured with flange nuts.
In Step 5, slide the hitch in from the rear passenger side of the vehicle over the exhaust and into position. Feed the fishwires through the mounting holes while raising the hitch. This approach allows the hitch to clear the temporarily lowered exhaust system.
Fasteners are initially loosely secured in Step 6 with 7/16-inch flange nuts on the bottom and side mounting holes. The muffler brackets are re-attached in Step 7 using M8-1.25 hex bolts and 5/16-inch washers. Final tightening occurs in Step 8: torque all 7/16-inch hardware to 70 ft-lbs and all M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs. The rubber isolator is re-attached in Step 9 after all torquing is complete.
All 7/16-inch hardware (carriage bolts and flange nuts) must be torqued to 70 ft-lbs. This includes the fasteners securing the hitch to both the bottom and side mounting holes of the frame rails.
All M8 hardware (the M8-1.25 x 30 hex bolts used to re-attach the muffler brackets) must be torqued to 23 ft-lbs.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While the CURT 13186 is rated for 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight as a weight-carrying hitch (or 5,000 lbs trailer and 500 lbs tongue as a weight-distribution hitch), your Ford Escape may have a lower manufacturer limit that must be observed.
After installation, verify that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. Periodically check the hitch during ownership to ensure all fasteners remain tight and structural integrity is maintained. This ongoing inspection is important for safe towing.
The manual states you should periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. While a specific interval is not provided, regular inspection before towing trips is recommended to maintain safe operation.
The hitch weight is 40 lbs.
Yes, the CURT 13186 is designed for 2013-Present Ford Escape SUVs. Verify your exact year and model match before purchasing.
As a weight-carrying hitch: 3,500 lbs trailer, 350 lbs tongue. As a weight-distribution hitch: 5,000 lbs trailer, 500 lbs tongue. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque wrench, ratchet, 6-inch extension, 13mm/10mm/11/16-inch sockets, die grinder, aviation shears, and safety glasses. A torque wrench is essential for proper fastener tightening.
Torque all 7/16-inch hardware to 70 ft-lbs. Torque all M8 hardware to 23 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench for accuracy.
Professional installation: approximately 80 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation: approximately 45 minutes.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Wear safety glasses during installation. Periodically check all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56448 is a wiring converter system for SUVs and vans that converts vehicle taillight signals to a trailer connector format. It allows you to connect a trailer to your vehicle's existing lighting system. The product handles signal circuits (6.0 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (3.0 amps total).
The Curt 56448 is designed for SUVs and vans. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or check a fitment database with your vehicle's year, make and model to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
Required tools are: ratchet, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, socket extension, small flathead screwdriver, Torx bit T-25, trim panel removal tool, cutting tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, and electrical tape. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes a black converter box, white ground wire with ring terminal, provided screw for grounding, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, sealant for sealing the grommet cut, cable ties for securing wires, a 4-flat dust cover, and a 15-amp fuse holder with fuse. The wiring harness includes yellow (left turn), green (right turn), red (brake), and brown (taillight) wires.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other wiring steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
You must remove both taillights (using an 8mm socket), the floor board to access the spare tire, electrical components in the foam bins at the back of the rear seats, foam spare tire surrounds (four push fasteners, two per side), the scuff plate and threshold fasteners (two T-25 Torx screws and two push fasteners), and side-wall panels for access to the grommet behind each taillight.
Drilling may be required. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box—either an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no existing point is available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Yes. You must remove the grommet behind each taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes through from inside the cabin to the taillight. Cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. After inserting the wiring, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut and around all wires.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits are rated at 6.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 3.0 amps total. Do not exceed these product ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger for the power wire routed from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the wire carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges.
Yellow wire = left turn signal; Green wire = right turn signal; Red wire = brake signal; Brown wire = taillight/running light. The white wire is the ground wire with a ring terminal for vehicle body connection.
Route the custom wiring end with yellow wires (driver side) out through the grommet opening and slit. Insert it between the separated taillight connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire wiring end. Reseat the grommet and seal the cut with provided sealant.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. The area should be clean and suitable for secure mounting.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box—either an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole if necessary. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The installation difficulty is rated as Easy. However, installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not exceed the product rating or vehicle lamp load rating during testing.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the sealant around the grommet and wires for integrity, and verify that the converter box remains securely mounted with the double-sided tape.
The Curt 56448 is designed for SUVs and vans. Check your vehicle's year, make and model against a fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility before purchasing.
No, the Curt 56448 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger for the power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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