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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2018 | Kia Forte | Sedan |
Yes, the 14-18 KIA Forte Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1591 (Part #HBCW1591) is designed to fit the 2014-2018 Kia Forte.
The 14-18 KIA Forte Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1591 (Part #HBCW1591) fits 2014-2018 Kia Forte models. The 2018 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 14-18 KIA Forte Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1591 (Part #HBCW1591) fits the following vehicles: 2014-2018 Kia Forte. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 14-18 KIA Forte Sedan 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1591 (Part #HBCW1591) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt hitch model 11434 is designed for the Kia Forte. It uses the vehicle's existing tow loop and weldnuts on the frame rails, so no drilling is required.
Curt hitch 11434 is designed for use with ballmount #55001 or #45501.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the gross load capacity is 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
You will need a socket wrench, torque wrench, 3/4 in. socket, and 17mm socket.
The hitch includes: one 1/2-13 UNC carriage bolt (part 10-10272), one 0.250 x 1.50 x 3.00" square hole spacer (CM-SP4), one 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nut (part 20-00062), four M10×1.25 hex cap screws (part 10-10373), and four 7/16" conical toothed washers (part 30-00163).
No. The hitch uses the vehicle's existing tow loop and existing weldnuts on both frame rails. No drilling is required.
Yes. You must lower the exhaust for ease of installation by removing two rubber isolators from the exhaust before installing the hitch. The exhaust is raised back into position after the hitch is secured.
1. Lower the exhaust by removing two rubber isolators. 2. Install the 1/2" carriage bolt and CM-SP4 spacer through the top of the existing vehicle tow loop. 3. Raise the hitch into position over the exhaust. 4. Loosely install the 1/2" hex flange nut onto the carriage bolt. 5. Loosely secure the hitch with M10-1.25 hex bolts and 3/8" conical toothed washers through the existing weldnuts in the frame rails. 6. Torque the M10-1.25 hardware to 48 lb-ft and the 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft. 7. Raise the exhaust back into position.
Torque M10-1.25 hex bolts to 48 lb-ft.
Torque the 1/2" carriage bolt and hex flange nut to 110 lb-ft.
Non-trailer loads can be applied to this hitch only if they are supported by auxiliary stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound.
Yes, designed for Kia Forte. Uses existing tow loop and weldnuts—no drilling required.
Socket wrench, torque wrench, 3/4 in. socket, and 17mm socket.
No. The hitch uses existing vehicle tow loop and weldnuts on frame rails.
Yes. Remove two rubber isolators from the exhaust before installation, then raise it back after securing the hitch.
M10-1.25 bolts: 48 lb-ft. 1/2" hardware: 110 lb-ft.
2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight as a weight-carrying hitch. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Only with auxiliary stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56078 custom wiring harness is designed for the Hyundai Santa Fe. Installation requires access to the tailgate, removal of cargo loops, jack storage compartment, scuff panels and rear trim panels to reach the taillight wiring connectors.
Yes, the Curt 56078 custom wiring harness is designed for the Kia Forte. Installation requires access to the tailgate, removal of the rear scuff panel and trunk liner fasteners to reach the taillight wiring connectors.
The Curt 56078 has a signal circuit rating of 3.0 amps per side and a tail/running circuit rating of 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding it can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
You will need a Phillips screwdriver, a flat blade screwdriver, and a panel trim removal tool. These tools are required to remove fasteners and interior trim panels to access the taillight connectors.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact the vehicle manufacturer or Curt Manufacturing for guidance on this safety requirement.
Drilling may be required. Step 3 instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, which can be an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Separate the vehicle connectors carefully without damaging the alignment tabs. Starting on the driver side, insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat this process on the passenger side using the harness end with the green wire.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly.
Reinstall all items removed during installation. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Open the vehicle tailgate and remove two cargo loops (one on each side). Open the jack storage compartment and remove three 10 mm bolts securing it, then pull out the jack compartment. Remove the rear scuff panel by pulling up. Remove the rear trim panels by removing the Phillips screw and plastic wing nut securing each panel. Pull the rear trim panel out to access the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors.
Open the vehicle tailgate. Remove the rear scuff panel by removing the plastic fasteners securing it in place. Remove the two plastic fasteners on each side of the vehicle and pull back on the felt trunk liner to locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors.
The Curt 56078 is designed for Hyundai Santa Fe and Kia Forte models.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Phillips screwdriver, flat blade screwdriver, and panel trim removal tool.
Drilling may be required if no existing screw with nut is available at the grounding point. If drilling is necessary, a 3/32" pilot hole is required. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Yellow wire connects to the driver side. Green wire connects to the passenger side. White wire is the ground wire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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