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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2014 - 2019 | Mini Cooper | Base, hatchback, excluding with spare tire |
Yes, CURT part number 11387 is designed for MINI Cooper Clubman and Clubman S models from 2008 to current. The hitch attaches using existing vehicle hardware and is designed for use with EURO Ballmount #45551 (1 7/8" ball) or #45552 (2" ball).
The CURT 11387 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs. and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these limits.
You will need: torque wrench, ratchet, 9" socket extension, 13mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, offset Phillips screwdriver (or wrench with Phillips driver bit), power drill, and 2-1/2" hole saw. Safety glasses should be worn at all times during installation.
Yes. You must remove the bumper cover and bumper beam. The bumper cover is secured by 8 fasteners, and the bumper beam is secured by 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts. The hitch is then sandwiched between the bumper beam and the rear of the car using the existing vehicle hardware.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, you can contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Yes. You must drill a 2-1/2" access hole through the bumper cover to allow access to the receiver tube. Mark the drill location by measuring down 3-3/4" from the bumper cover lip and center using the dimple in the license plate cover. When drilling, make sure not to drill through the sensor bracket or loose wiring. Verify the drill location prior to drilling.
All 8mm bolts and 8mm nuts used to secure the hitch must be torqued to 24 ft-lbs. These are the 4 bolts and 4 nuts that attach the hitch between the bumper beam and the rear of the car.
The 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts that originally secure the bumper beam to the vehicle are removed in step 9 and then reused in step 11 to secure the hitch. The hitch attaches using existing vehicle hardware.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on stabilizing straps.
Longer safety chains may be required to reach the chain loops on the hitch. Before towing, verify that your safety chains are long enough to clear the bumper cover while turning. The hitch has chain loops located on the rear bumper beam and rear end panel.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This is especially important before towing. The manual does not specify a particular interval, but regular inspection before use is recommended.
CURT hitch 11387 is designed for use with EURO Ballmount #45551 (1 7/8" ball) and EURO Ballmount #45552 (2" ball). These are the only ballmounts specified in the manual for this hitch.
You must disconnect 2 license plate light harnesses and 1 rear sensor harness when removing the bumper cover. These harnesses must be reconnected when reinstalling the bumper cover during reassembly.
You must remove 7 wiring harness clips from the aluminum bumper beam using a flat blade screwdriver. These clips must be reinstalled after the hitch is secured and before the bumper cover is raised back into position.
Remove fasteners in this order: (1) 8 fasteners securing the bumper cover, (2) fastener 1 from inside the rear wheel well using a Phillips screwdriver (remove rear wheels if needed for access), (3) fastener 2 from the bottom of the bumper near the rear wheel well, (4) fastener 3 hidden behind the fender flare using an offset Phillips screwdriver or wrench with Phillips driver bit, and (5) fastener 4 from the bottom of the bumper cover. After these are removed, the bumper cover is held only by locking tabs and can be pulled free.
Slide one hand past the wheel well liner and fender flare, then push up on the 2 lower tabs that connect the fender flare to the bumper cover. Using your other hand, pry the rear fender flare away from the car until it pops free. Release the side marker bulb from the fender flare. The fender flare is snapped back into place during reassembly.
You must support the bumper beam before removing the bolts to prevent it from falling. The bumper beam is secured by 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts that must be removed using a ratchet, socket extension, and 13mm socket.
Raise the hitch into position by aligning the holes and weld studs on the car with the holes in the hitch. The hitch is then sandwiched between the bumper beam and the rear of the car. It is secured using the 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts that were removed from the bumper beam, torqued to 24 ft-lbs.
Measure down 3-3/4" from the bumper cover lip and center the hole using the dimple in the license plate cover. Use a 2-1/2" hole saw to drill through the license plate holder and bumper cover. Verify the drill location prior to drilling to avoid drilling through the sensor bracket or loose wiring.
After the hitch is fully installed: (1) Reinstall the 7 wiring harness clips removed from the bumper beam, (2) Raise the bumper cover to the car and reconnect the 2 license plate light harnesses and rear sensor harness, (3) Align the bumper cover and pull back on the fender flares, (4) Push bumper lock tabs in place until they snap, (5) Re-attach side marker bulbs to fender flares, (6) Reinstall all 8 fasteners removed previously, and (7) Snap fender flares back into place.
Yes. CURT 11387 is designed for MINI Cooper Clubman and Clubman S, 2008-current. It attaches using existing vehicle hardware and is compatible with EURO Ballmount #45551 (1 7/8" ball) or #45552 (2" ball).
Maximum 2,000 lbs. trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque wrench, ratchet, 9" socket extension, 13mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, offset Phillips screwdriver, power drill, and 2-1/2" hole saw. Safety glasses required.
Yes. Bumper cover and bumper beam removal required. The hitch is sandwiched between the bumper beam and vehicle rear using existing hardware.
Yes. A 2-1/2" hole must be drilled through the bumper cover for receiver tube access. Mark location 3-3/4" down from bumper cover lip, centered on license plate dimple. Verify location before drilling to avoid sensor bracket or wiring.
All 8mm bolts and nuts: 24 ft-lbs. These secure the hitch between bumper beam and vehicle rear.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads must be supported by 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to do so voids warranty. See CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for details.
Periodically check all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. Verify safety chains clear bumper cover while turning before towing.
If you cannot access fastener 1 from inside the rear wheel well, you may remove the rear wheels to gain access to the screw. This is an optional step provided in the manual to facilitate removal.
After removing all fasteners (8 from bumper cover, 1 from wheel well, 1 from bottom near wheel well, 1 hidden behind fender flare, and 1 from bottom of bumper cover), the bumper cover is held only by locking tabs. Pull back on each side of the bumper cover until it pops free. If it resists, ensure all fasteners have been removed and tabs are fully released.
The manual explicitly states: "Verify drill location prior to drilling!" Measure down 3-3/4" from the bumper cover lip and center using the dimple in the license plate cover. Double-check this measurement before using the 2-1/2" hole saw to avoid drilling through the sensor bracket or loose wiring.
The manual warns: "Support bumper beam before removing bolts to prevent from falling." Always support the bumper beam with a jack, stand, or helper before removing the 4 8mm bolts and 4 8mm nuts. This prevents injury and damage to the vehicle.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56236 is a taillight converter that adapts vehicle taillight signals to a 4-flat connector. It converts various vehicle wiring types (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, and PWM-STT) into a standardized 4-flat output. The converter is powered by the vehicle battery and includes short circuit, overload, and thermal protection.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. It supports four wiring types: two-wire (combined stop and turn with independent tail), three-wire (independent stop, turn and tail), PWM-ST (combined stop and tail with independent turn), and PWM-STT (combined stop, turn and tail). You must first identify your vehicle's wiring type using the testing procedure on page 2 before installation.
No. The converter is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24 volt vehicles or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
The converter includes the black converter box, snap locks for wiring connections, double-sided tape for mounting, cable ties for securing wires, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a ground screw, and input wires (green, red, yellow, and brown). Not included are 12 gauge wire, 15 amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items can be purchased separately or as CURT part 55152 kit.
A multimeter or test light is required to identify your vehicle's wiring type. A drill with a 3/32" bit may be needed if a suitable existing screw is not available for the ground connection. A wire stripper, crimper, and basic hand tools are needed to prepare and connect the 12 gauge battery wire and butt connectors, though these are not explicitly listed in the manual.
With the vehicle running and all lights off, use a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light to probe the taillight connectors. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify the pattern. Match your results to the 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' chart on page 2. The chart shows five wiring types: two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, PWM-STT, and SUVS/vans/cars/trucks variants.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation procedure requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The battery must remain disconnected until all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed.
After identifying your vehicle's wiring type, use the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 to match each converter wire (green, red, yellow, brown) to the correct vehicle wire. Use the provided snap locks to attach the converter input wires to the vehicle harness wires. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks. The specific connections vary by wiring type: for example, in a two-wire system, green splices to the right stop/turn wire, red grounds with the white wire, yellow splices to the left stop/turn wire, and brown splices to the tail wire.
Locate a flat spot near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Secure it with the included cable ties. The mounting location should be clean and free of obstructions to allow proper heat dissipation.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt, and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage or personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire from the converter to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal to attach the black wire to the positive battery terminal. Install a 15 amp fuse in a fuse holder on the positive wire between the battery and converter. Do not exceed 15 amps. The fuse must be installed after all other steps are complete. The negative battery terminal should remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground connection. If a suitable existing screw with nut is not available in the vehicle frame near the converter, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage or personal injury. No other drilling is required for the converter installation.
The battery connection must be fuse protected with a maximum of 15 amps. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit (left and right turn) and 7.5 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
12 gauge wire or larger must be used to route from the converter to the vehicle battery. The wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The converter has four input wires: green (right turn signal), red (brake/stop signal), yellow (left turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). The white wire is the ground. The specific connections to your vehicle's wires depend on your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT). Refer to the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 for your specific wiring type.
Two testing methods are supported. With a test light: attach the ground lead to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat end, then activate the vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time and probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. With a trailer: mate the 4-flat with the trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a trailer function does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a test light. If the vehicle test light shows good function, the issue is with the trailer.
No. The converter is designed only for 12 volt negative ground systems. It is not suitable for 24 volt vehicles or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems. Additionally, the converter must not be used on vehicles where the lamp circuits exceed the product's amperage ratings (5.0 amps per signal circuit, 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits).
Before drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground screw, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The drilling area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and reinstalling all items removed during installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal. Test the converter using either a test light or by connecting a trailer and activating each light function (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) to confirm proper operation. When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location.
Pulsing lights indicate that the lamp circuits exceed the converter's ratings or there is a wiring issue with the trailer. The converter's short circuit, overload, and thermal protection features cause this pulsing behavior when overloaded. Check that your vehicle's lamp circuits do not exceed 5.0 amps per signal circuit or 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. If the vehicle circuits are within limits, disconnect the trailer 4-flat and test the vehicle lights with a test light. If the vehicle lights function properly, the issue is with the trailer wiring or lamps.
First, disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector. Turn off the corresponding light function on the vehicle and recheck the function with a test light attached to the 4-flat ground terminal. If the vehicle test light shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer lights or wiring, not the converter. If the vehicle test light does not show the function, the converter wiring may be incorrect; refer to the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 to verify your connections match your vehicle's wiring type.
The CURT 56236 is designed for 12 volt negative ground vehicles (SUVs, vans, cars, and pickup trucks) with two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT taillight wiring. It does not work on 24 volt or positive ground systems. You must identify your vehicle's wiring type using a multimeter or test light before purchase to confirm compatibility.
You must source 12 gauge wire, a 15 amp fuse, a fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery connection. These items are available separately or as CURT part 55152 kit. The converter includes snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, and a ground screw.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground connection. If no existing screw is available in the vehicle frame, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 15 amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating or the vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit and 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or the vehicle's lamp load rating. Exceeding limits can cause overheating and fire.
First, verify that the negative battery terminal is reconnected and the 15 amp fuse is installed in the battery circuit. Check that all snap lock connections are fully seated and that the converter input wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire, three-wire, PWM-ST, or PWM-STT). Verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean, unpainted metal surface on the vehicle frame. If all connections are correct, test the vehicle lights directly with a test light to confirm the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning.
Verify that the converter input wires are connected to the correct vehicle wires for your specific wiring type. Incorrect connections are the most common cause of partial function loss. Check the 'Wiring Installation' table on page 3 and confirm each wire (green, red, yellow, brown) is connected to the correct vehicle wire. Also verify that the white ground wire is securely attached to a clean metal surface. If connections are correct, test the vehicle lights directly with a test light to determine if the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning properly.
The vehicle's lamp circuits are exceeding the converter's amperage ratings. The converter is rated for 5.0 amps per signal circuit and 7.5 amps total for tail/running circuits. If the vehicle's lamp load exceeds these limits, the converter's thermal protection will activate, causing the fuse to blow or the converter to overheat. Do not replace the fuse with a higher amperage rating. Instead, reduce the lamp load by removing or replacing high-wattage bulbs, or consult the vehicle manufacturer about the lamp circuit specifications.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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