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2015 - 2021 Subaru WRX
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Authorized Dealer| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2021 | Subaru WRX | — |
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The 15-21 Subaru WRX 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2322 (Part #HBCW2322) fits 2015-2021 Subaru WRX models. The 2021 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 15-21 Subaru WRX 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2322 (Part #HBCW2322) fits the following vehicles: 2015-2021 Subaru WRX. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 15-21 Subaru WRX 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2322 (Part #HBCW2322) is designed to fit the 2015-2021 Subaru WRX.
The 15-21 Subaru WRX 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2322 (Part #HBCW2322) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11408 is designed for 2015-present Subaru WRX and WRX STI sedans. It is also compatible with 2015-present Subaru Impreza sedans and 2012-2014 Subaru Impreza sedans (excluding WRX models).
No. CURT 11408 is designed for 2012-2014 Subaru Impreza sedans (excluding WRX) and 2015-present Impreza and WRX/WRX STI models. Your 2011 Impreza is not listed as compatible.
The manual specifies a gross load capacity of 2,000 lbs. trailer weight and 200 lbs. tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The manual states that all non-trailer loads applied to this product must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Refer to the CURT catalog or www.curtmfg.com for further information on the 18050 straps.
You will need: aviator shears, 3/4" socket, 10mm socket, ratchet, torque wrench, die grinder, and safety glasses. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
The kit includes: 4 bolts (1/2"-13 UNC, 1-1/2", grade 8, part 10-10287), 4 serrated flange nuts (1/2"-13 UNC, grade 8, part 20-00062), 4 square hole spacers (0.250" x 1.00" x 3.00", part CM-SP6), and 4 pieces of 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE).
The manual states that 2 people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, CURT recommends contacting an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. You can also call technical support at 1-877-287-8634.
Professional installation time is 35 minutes. Novice DIY installation time is 70 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on your experience and familiarity with the vehicle.
The manual does not mention disconnecting the battery as part of the installation procedure.
Yes. The first installation step is to lower the exhaust by removing 5 rear rubber isolators. The manual notes that you must support the exhaust as required during this step. If needed to access outside hangers, you must also remove plastic underbody panels by removing plastic fittings (7 per side). After the hitch is installed and torqued, you must reinstall the exhaust and underbody panels.
No drilling is required. However, the installation does require cutting a hole in the heat shield, enlarging existing access holes on both sides of the frame to allow 1/2" fasteners to pass through, and trimming a 1" hole on the dimple on both the right and left sides. These modifications are performed using a die grinder and aviator shears.
Yes. You must remove the heat shield by removing 4 small screws with a 10mm socket, then cut a hole in the heat shield as shown in the installation diagram. After fishwiring the hardware into position, you reinstall the heat shield with 3 of the fasteners, leaving out the one between the mounting holes. The heat shield will be sandwiched between the hitch and vehicle frame rails.
Fishwiring is the process of threading the 1/2" hardware (bolts, nuts, spacers, and fishwire) through the access holes in the frame rails into position on both sides of the vehicle. The fishwire is used to guide the hardware through the enlarged access holes before the hitch is raised into position.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 lb-ft. This is done after the hitch is raised into position and before the exhaust and underbody panels are reinstalled.
CURT 11408 is designed for use with ballmount #45521. Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) or #45572 (2" ball).
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but recommends regular inspection as part of ongoing vehicle maintenance.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. The exhaust must be supported as required during the lowering step. Before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer.
CURT Manufacturing LLC. warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when the product is returned, prepaid, with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of products found to be defective, and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, if you have a 2015-present WRX/WRX STI or Impreza sedan, or a 2012-2014 Impreza sedan (excluding WRX). Check your model year and body style against the manual's application list.
Professional: 35 minutes. Novice DIY: 70 minutes. Two people may be required.
All 1/2" fasteners must be torqued to 110 lb-ft after the hitch is raised into position.
Only with CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Non-trailer loads without proper support will void the warranty.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, part 56259 is designed for Subaru Impreza sedans with 2.0i engine in all trims. It is also compatible with Subaru WRX models. Verify your vehicle matches these specifications before purchasing.
Yes, the 56259 custom wiring harness is compatible with Subaru WRX models.
The signal circuits are rated for 3.0 amps per side, and the tail/running circuits are rated for 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
You will need: flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, ratchet, 10mm socket, and cutting tool.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is the first step in the installation process.
The wiring connection points are located behind the taillight housings inside the trunk. The driver side connection point (P3) is behind the driver side taillight housing, and the passenger side connection point (P4) is behind the passenger side taillight housing.
The custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire connects to the driver side taillight connectors. The harness end with the green wire connects to the passenger side taillight connectors.
Drilling may be required for the grounding point. You will need to locate an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame near the taillight connector. If no suitable existing screw is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The white wire is the ground wire. It must be secured using the ring terminal and provided screw to a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame or a newly drilled 3/32" pilot hole.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this fuse rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
After installation, reinstall all items removed during the install and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to prevent corrosion. Test the wiring harness for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Remove the fasteners securing the rear scuff panel, then pull out on the bottom and then up to remove it. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the backside of the panel.
Pull back on the felt trunk liner to locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Insert the custom wiring harness end (yellow wire for driver side, green wire for passenger side) between the separated vehicle taillight connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Yes, the 56259 is designed for Subaru Impreza sedans (2.0i all trims) and Subaru WRX models.
Flat blade screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire stripper, wire crimper, ratchet, 10mm socket, and cutting tool.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation.
Drilling may be required for the grounding point if an existing screw is not available. You would drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required for the battery connection. Do not exceed this rating.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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