Our in-house experts typically reply within one business day.
CURT
Verify Fitment
Select your vehicle to confirm this part fits.
2015 - 2024 Ford Transit-150
Confirmed to Fit
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
Always the correct part
We know our products
Quality Products
Free Shipping!
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 900 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 8,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 900 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2024 | Ford Transit-150 | — |
The 15-24 Ford Transit-150 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW991 (Part #HBCW991) fits 2015-2024 Ford Transit-150 models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 15-24 Ford Transit-150 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW991 (Part #HBCW991) fits the following vehicles: 2015-2024 Ford Transit-150. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 15-24 Ford Transit-150 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW991 (Part #HBCW991) is designed to fit the 2015-2024 Ford Transit-150.
The 15-24 Ford Transit-150 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW991 (Part #HBCW991) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The part number is 13193. This is a Class II weight-carrying hitch with a 6,000 lbs trailer weight capacity and 900 lbs tongue weight capacity when used as a weight-carrying hitch, or 8,000 lbs trailer weight and 900 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-distribution hitch.
Yes, CURT part number 13193 is designed for the 2015 Ford Transit Van. Before installation, verify that your hitch matches the vehicle photo and hitch illustration provided in the manual to confirm correct fitment.
The tongue weight capacity is 900 lbs for both weight-carrying and weight-distribution modes.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the trailer weight capacity is 6,000 lbs. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, the trailer weight capacity is 8,000 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools are: safety glasses, spray lubricant, wire pipe brush, ratchet, 17mm socket, 3/4" socket, 3" socket extension, and torque wrench. A M12-1.75 tap may ease installation but is optional.
The hitch includes: 4 M12x1.75 hex flange self-tapping bolts (part 10-10430), 2 1/2"-13 UNC car bolts 1-1/2" long (part 10-10287), 2 .250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP6), 2 1/2"-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), and 2 1/2" x 30" fishwires (part 1_2 x 30 FISHWIRE).
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses self-tapping bolts that thread into the frame rails at pre-existing locations.
1. Clean frame bolt locations with lubricant and brush. Thread the 4 self-tapping M12 bolts into the frame rail locations (2 on each side) halfway or more, keeping bolts perpendicular to the frame. Remove the bolts to be installed later. 2. Fishwire the 1/2" bolt and spacer into each frame rail. 3. Raise the hitch into location, being careful not to push bolts back into the frame. Secure with the provided M12 bolts and 1/2" hex nuts. 4. Torque M12 bolts to 90 ft-lbs and 1/2" hex nuts to 110 ft-lbs.
Torque the M12 bolts to 90 ft-lbs.
Torque the 1/2" hex nuts to 110 ft-lbs.
The fishwire is used to thread the 1/2" bolt and spacer into each frame rail before raising the hitch into position. This helps align and secure the hitch during installation.
The two .250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP6) are fishwired into each frame rail along with the 1/2" bolts to help position and support the hitch during installation.
No. Thread the 4 self-tapping M12 bolts into the frame rail locations halfway or more while keeping them perpendicular to the frame, then remove them. They will be reinstalled later after the hitch is raised into position.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This should be done regularly throughout the life of the hitch.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While CURT 13193 has a 6,000 lbs trailer weight capacity in weight-carrying mode or 8,000 lbs in weight-distribution mode, your 2015 Ford Transit Van may have a lower manufacturer-recommended limit that must be observed.
Yes, CURT 13193 is designed for the 2015 Ford Transit Van. Verify fitment by comparing your vehicle to the vehicle photo and hitch illustration in the manual.
You need safety glasses, spray lubricant, wire pipe brush, ratchet, 17mm and 3/4" sockets, 3" socket extension, and torque wrench. An optional M12-1.75 tap may ease installation.
Torque M12 bolts to 90 ft-lbs and 1/2" hex nuts to 110 ft-lbs.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound throughout the life of the hitch.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56327 custom wiring harness is designed for Ford Transit SUVs, mini and full-sized vans (S-series). The harness connects behind the driver and passenger side taillight housings. Confirm your vehicle is a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
The Curt 56327 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter that integrates your Ford Transit's taillight signals and running lights to power a trailer connector. It includes a converter box, wiring for left turn (yellow), right turn (green), brake (red), and taillight (brown) circuits, plus a 4-flat connector for the trailer.
You will need: 6mm socket, 10mm socket, 1/4" socket, T-20 Torx bit, ratchet, cutting tool, flat blade screwdriver, and panel trim remover tool. A drill may be required if a suitable existing screw with nut is not available at the grounding location.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery on the driver side under the front seat and disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. The battery must remain disconnected until Step 13, when you reconnect it after all other installation steps are complete.
The black converter box mounts on a flat spot inside the vehicle on the driver side using the provided double-sided tape (Step 9). Choose a location that is accessible but out of the way, as the converter must remain in the vehicle during operation.
Remove the taillight housing using two T-20 Torx screws (Step 3). Separate the vehicle's taillight wiring harness connectors from the housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs (Step 4). Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire (driver side) or green wire (passenger side) between the separated connectors, ensuring they are fully inserted with locking tabs in place (Step 7). Repeat on the passenger side.
Drilling may be required. Step 8 instructs you to locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame. If no suitable existing screw is available, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Always check for hidden items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
Step 5 requires you to remove the grommet that the vehicle's taillight wiring harness passes through. Make a cut in the grommet from the middle outwards, large enough to pass the custom wiring harness housing through. In Step 6, reseat the grommet using the provided sealant to seal the cut and around all wires. This modification is permanent and necessary on both driver and passenger sides.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse only after all other installation steps are complete (Step 13).
The custom wiring harness includes four signal wires: yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, and brown for taillight. The harness also includes a white ground wire with a ring terminal and a black power wire that connects to the vehicle battery. The 4-flat connector is used to connect the trailer.
Signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your vehicle's lamp load specifications.
Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the included CME-PCL-INS sheet (Step 11). The manual notes that battery location may differ depending on the vehicle. When routing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw to a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector (Step 8). The grounding point should be an existing screw with nut in the vehicle's frame, or you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint before attachment.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location (Step 12). When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent damage and keep the installation neat.
After installation, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer (as stated in the Notice on page 1). All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly. Verify that left turn, right turn, brake, and taillight circuits operate correctly before towing.
No. The converter system is designed for use only on 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not attempt to use it on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
The manual does not specify a maximum towing load. It states: do not exceed the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your vehicle's lamp load specifications and towing capacity.
Yes, the Curt 56327 is designed for Ford Transit SUVs, mini and full-sized vans (S-series) with 12-volt negative ground systems.
You will need: 6mm, 10mm, and 1/4" sockets; T-20 Torx bit; ratchet; cutting tool; flat blade screwdriver; panel trim remover tool; and possibly a drill for the 3/32" ground hole.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Keep it disconnected until all wiring is complete, then reconnect in the final step.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw with nut is not available at the grounding location, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The battery connection must use a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Install the fuse only after all other steps are complete.
Signal circuits are rated 3.0 amps per side; tail and running circuits are rated 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
No, the converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use on 24-volt or positive ground systems.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
On Sale Today
Original price was $906.60. Current price is $670.13.You save $236.47 (26%)
Free Shipping
Ships free on all orders
Authorized Dealer
Quick Ship
In stock and ready to ship — order now!
FREE ShippingFREE SHIPPING
Estimated delivery Sun, Aug 9 - Wed, Aug 12
Order before 2 PM EST Monday–Friday for same-day processing
Guaranteed safe & secure checkout
No reviews have been added for this product.