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2017 - 2024 Chrysler Pacifica
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 400 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 4,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2017 - 2024 | Chrysler Pacifica | — |
The 17-24 Chrysler Pacifica 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW639 (Part #HBCW639) fits the following vehicles: 2017-2024 Chrysler Pacifica. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 17-24 Chrysler Pacifica 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW639 (Part #HBCW639) fits 2017-2024 Chrysler Pacifica models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 17-24 Chrysler Pacifica 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW639 (Part #HBCW639) is designed to fit the 2017-2024 Chrysler Pacifica.
The 17-24 Chrysler Pacifica 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW639 (Part #HBCW639) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Part number 13383 is a receiver hitch designed for 2017-present Chrysler Pacifica vans. It is a weight-carrying hitch with a gross load capacity of 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 400 lbs tongue weight. When used as a weight distribution hitch, capacity increases to 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. The hitch itself weighs 90 lbs.
Part 13383 is designed for 2017-present Chrysler Pacifica vans. The manual does not specify whether it fits all trim levels or configurations within this model year range. For fitment confirmation on your specific vehicle, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 or visit www.curtmfg.com.
Yes. Hybrid models require two additional steps: (1) temporarily remove the emissions canister on the driver side frame rail using a 10mm socket to remove 2 bolts, then reinstall using provided M6 hardware, and (2) enlarge holes on the driver side frame rail using a die grinder as shown in the Hole Enlargement Diagram. Non-hybrid models do not require these steps.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/4-inch socket, universal joint socket, screwdriver, masking tape, aviation shears, and die grinder. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
The hitch includes: (5) 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts 1-1/2 inches long (part 10-10287), (5) 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50-inch square hole spacers (part CM-SP10), (5) 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), (5) 1/2-inch fishwires (part 1_2 FISHWIRE), (1) tap bolt (part 10-10513), (1) 1/4-20 x 1.00 hex bolt (part 10-10424), and (1) hex nut (part 20-00192). Hybrid models also receive M6 hardware for emissions canister reinstallation.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, CURT recommends contacting an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Professional installation time is 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is 45 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on experience, tool availability, and vehicle condition.
Yes, trimming is required. You must trim the underbody panel and heat shield. The underbody panel requires a 0.5-inch by 10-inch slot marked with masking tape and cut using aviation shears. The heat shield requires a 5-inch by 13-inch section marked and trimmed using aviation shears. On hybrid models, holes on the driver side frame rail must be enlarged using a die grinder.
The underbody panel slot must be 0.5 inches wide by 10 inches long, marked 6 inches from the center of the hole. Use masking tape to mark the area and aviation shears to trim it.
The heat shield section must be 5 inches by 13 inches, marked with masking tape and trimmed using aviation shears.
A die grinder is required only on hybrid Chrysler Pacifica models. It is used to enlarge holes on the driver side frame rail as shown in the Hole Enlargement Diagram. Non-hybrid models do not require this step.
All 1/2-inch hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. This is the final torque specification applied after the hitch is raised into position and all bolts are loosely fastened.
The hitch weight is 90 lbs.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the maximum capacity is 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 400 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
When used as a weight distribution hitch, the maximum capacity is 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The installation sequence is: (1) Remove underbody panel fasteners (5 screws, 7 nuts, 2 bolts, 2 plastic screws); (2) Remove 3 screws from driver side wheel well, remove underbody panel, trim 0.5" x 10" slot, set panel aside; (3) Lower exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators; (4) Remove 2 plastic nuts, remove heat shield, trim 5" x 13" section, reinstall with 1 nut; (5-6) On hybrid only: remove emissions canister and enlarge frame rail holes with die grinder; (7) Fishwire bolts and spacers through access holes; (8) Remove 1 nut from driver side frame rail, relocate electrical ground if present; (9) Raise hitch starting with passenger side, align with fishwires, loosely fasten nuts; (10) Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs, reinstall underbody panel.
Yes, the exhaust must be lowered by removing 2 rubber isolators. This is a temporary step to provide clearance for installation. The exhaust is not permanently removed.
Fishwire is used to thread 1/2-inch carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes before the hitch is raised into position. The fishwires help align the bolts with the hitch holes during installation, making it easier to fasten the nuts. The fishwires are removed before final fastening.
No. After fishwiring the bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes and raising the hitch into position, fasteners should be loosely fastened only. Specifically, loosely fasten 2 hex flange nuts on the driver side and 3 hex flange nuts on the passenger side. All fasteners are fully torqued to 110 ft-lbs only after the hitch is properly aligned and positioned.
On the driver side frame rail, if an electrical ground is present, it must be relocated using the provided 1/4-inch hardware (1/4-20 x 1.00 hex bolt and hex nut). Ensure the area is free of rust, dirt, and paint before reinstalling the ground.
After removing the underbody panel in Step 2, set it aside for later reinstallation. After trimming the 0.5-inch by 10-inch slot, the panel is reinstalled in Step 10 by following Steps 1 and 2 in reverse order.
After removing the heat shield in Step 4, trim the marked 5-inch by 13-inch section using aviation shears, then reinstall it with 1 nut using a 10mm socket. If there is no underbody panel, instead remove 4 plastic nuts, trim the panel, and reinstall with 3 plastic nuts.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While CURT part 13383 has a maximum capacity of 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 400 lbs tongue weight for weight-carrying use (or 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight for weight distribution use), your Chrysler Pacifica's manufacturer specifications may be lower. Always follow the more restrictive limit.
After installation, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is critical to safe operation.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact inspection interval. For specific maintenance recommendations, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 or visit www.curtmfg.com.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when the product is returned, prepaid, with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
CURT part 13383 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, CURT part 13383 is designed for 2017-present Chrysler Pacifica vans. For fitment confirmation on your specific vehicle, contact CURT at 877-287-8634 or www.curtmfg.com.
You need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 8mm/10mm/3/4-inch sockets, universal joint socket, screwdriver, masking tape, aviation shears, die grinder, and safety glasses. Hybrid models require the die grinder; non-hybrid models may not.
Yes. You must trim a 0.5" × 10" slot in the underbody panel and a 5" × 13" section of the heat shield using aviation shears. Hybrid models also require hole enlargement on the driver side frame rail using a die grinder.
All 1/2-inch hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs after the hitch is raised into position and loosely fastened.
Weight-carrying: 4,000 lbs trailer, 400 lbs tongue. Weight distribution: 5,000 lbs trailer, 500 lbs tongue. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended capacity.
Professional: 90 minutes. Novice (DIY): 45 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Periodically check all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound.
Use the fishwires to help align the bolts with the hitch holes. Thread the fishwires through the holes on the hitch after raising it into position. This will guide the bolts into proper alignment before you remove the fishwires and fasten the nuts.
If there is no underbody panel, skip Step 2 (underbody panel removal and trimming). Proceed directly to Step 3 (lowering the exhaust). For the heat shield in Step 4, instead of removing 2 plastic nuts, remove 4 plastic nuts, trim the panel, and reinstall with 3 plastic nuts.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. If fasteners have loosened, retorque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. If fasteners continue to loosen, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 56399 is designed for SUVs and Vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system. The manual does not list specific vehicle models or years compatible with this part number. Contact CURT or your retailer with your vehicle's year, make and model for fitment confirmation.
Signal circuits are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, utility knife, Torx bit T-27, wire crimper, socket extension, wire stripper, flathead screwdriver, and fish wire. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Be sure to fasten this wire down and away from the battery when completing the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
The custom wiring harness has two ends: one with a green wire and one with a yellow wire. Route the green wire end along the rear bumper and up behind the fender to the opening underneath the driver side taillight. Route the yellow wire end along the rear bumper to the passenger side taillight. Use fish wire to help route the harness from underneath the vehicle. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing S1 (behind driver side taillight) and S2 (behind passenger side taillight) as the primary connection points.
Remove the taillight by removing two fasteners and gently pulling rearward and out. Separate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end (with green wire for driver side, yellow wire for passenger side) between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Reinstall the taillight.
You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire. Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw to a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame or a 3/32" pilot hole you drill. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Use the ring terminal for the battery connection and the screw provided in the kit.
Locate a flat clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and cable ties. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
The wiring color code is: Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Brown = Taillight. The custom harness ends are identified by green wire (driver side) and yellow wire (passenger side). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal. The white wire is the ground connection.
Use 12 GA (gauge) wire or larger to route from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the cable ties provided.
Route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. Secure the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle in a convenient, out-of-the-way location or the rear hitch. Use the provided cable ties to secure any loose wires. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The installation difficulty level is Moderate. Before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. All steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly.
Once installed, test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the product will function properly.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps prevent overheating, fire hazard, and warranty loss.
No. This converter system is to be used only on 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
The CURT 56399 is designed for SUVs and Vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle's electrical system type in your owner's manual. Contact CURT with your vehicle's year, make and model for specific fitment confirmation.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required for the ground connection. You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame. Check for hidden items before drilling.
A 15-amp maximum fuse is required for the battery connection. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Mount the black converter box in a flat, clean, protected area away from spray and debris from the rear wheels and road, using the provided double-sided tape and cable ties. Improper mounting can cause warranty loss, product failure, overheating and fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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