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2018 - 2022 Toyota C-HR
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| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical Package Type | Packaged |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2022 | Toyota C-HR | — |
The 18-22 Toyota C-HR 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2360 (Part #HBCW2360) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2022 Toyota C-HR. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 18-22 Toyota C-HR 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2360 (Part #HBCW2360) is designed to fit the 2018-2022 Toyota C-HR.
The 18-22 Toyota C-HR 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2360 (Part #HBCW2360) fits 2018-2022 Toyota C-HR models. The 2022 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 18-22 Toyota C-HR 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2360 (Part #HBCW2360) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, if you have a 2018 or newer Toyota C-HR or Toyota Corolla Hatchback. This hitch is designed specifically for these models.
The hitch has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight capacity of 200 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
You will need a ratchet, 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm sockets, a torque wrench, a flat head screwdriver, a hammer, and safety glasses. No power tools are required.
No, drilling is not required. The hitch uses existing holes and weldnuts on the vehicle's rear frame.
Yes. You must remove the bumper beam assembly to install this hitch. The installation process requires removing underbody panels, the lower rear fascia, and the bumper beam. The bumper beam is then reattached as part of the hitch assembly.
Two people may be required to ease installation, though the manual does not state this is mandatory. The installation is rated as 'Challenging' difficulty.
All M8 fasteners (part 10-10268) must be torqued to 23 lb-ft.
The hitch includes 8 M8x1.25x25 bolts, grade CL10.9, zinc-plated (part 10-10268). These fasteners attach the hitch to the existing weldnuts on the rear face of the vehicle cabin.
Yes. In step 3, you must use a hammer to flatten the tabs on the end of the bumper beam assembly so they are flush before raising the hitch into position.
Leave the fasteners loose initially. In step 4, loosely install the supplied fasteners with a 13mm socket. Only after the hitch is positioned should you torque all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft in step 5.
Use a 12mm socket to remove the 8 bolts attaching the bumper assembly to the rear face of the cabin.
Use a 13mm socket to install the supplied M8 fasteners.
Remove 14 push pin fasteners and 3 twist-type fasteners attaching the 2 underbody panels to the rear of the vehicle. Also locate and remove the 6 blue fascia clips holding the lower bumper fascia to the rear bumper body panel.
Remove the center portion of the rear bumper fascia by removing the lowest screw from each side of the rear of the bumper cover, then push out the tabs on the back. There are 2 wire harness mounting clips on the top that also need to be removed.
Yes. After removing the bumper assembly in step 2, return the original flange bolts to the vehicle owner.
After torquing all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft, reinstall the lower bumper fascia in reverse order of removal (step 6), then reinstall any remaining underbody panels removed in step 1 (step 7).
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT stabilizing straps part 18050. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Although the hitch is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, your vehicle's manufacturer may specify a lower limit, which must be observed.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
The CURT 11567 is designed for use with ballmount part 45521. Two ball options are available: part 45571 (1 7/8" ball) and part 45572 (2" ball).
Yes. This product complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Retorque all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft. The manual recommends periodically checking the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners remain tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
Part 56517 is a custom wiring harness with powered converter manufactured by Curt Manufacturing. It is designed to provide trailer lighting control for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The system converts vehicle taillight signals (left turn, right turn, brake, and running lights) to control a trailer's lighting functions via a 4-flat connector.
The 56517 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes or models. Wiring locations vary by vehicle; the manual defines seven possible locations (P1–P7) for taillight housings and rear bumper areas. Contact the manufacturer or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. Using it on a 24-volt system or positive ground system will not function correctly and may cause damage.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, and electrical tape. The manual notes that proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
The kit includes the custom wiring harness with connectors (yellow, green, white, black, red, and brown wires), a powered converter box, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, a ground screw, cable ties, a 4-flat dust cover, and a ring terminal for battery connection. A 15-amp fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse has been installed.
Open the rear hatch and locate the taillight fasteners on the driver side. Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts in the taillight trim. Pull the taillight straight back toward the rear of the vehicle. Locate the taillight housing and separate the connectors from it, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Fishwiring is a technique to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert a fish wire (which can be a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope, or string) through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Ensure the wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
Route a fish wire down between the bumper cover in the further rear opening of the bumper cover and the body of the vehicle on the driver side. Attach the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull up to the factory harness connector. Connect the custom harness to the factory harness.
Route the housing with the green wire above the bumper mount and along the back side of the bumper to the passenger side. Secure it with zip ties as needed along the bumper.
Yes. Repeat steps 2, 3, and 4 on the passenger side of the vehicle to connect the passenger-side taillight to the harness.
You may use an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame as a grounding point, or you may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no suitable existing fastener is available. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Secure the white ground wire with the ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw.
Locate a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
Route a 12 GA wire or larger from the vehicle battery location to the converter, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Connect the black power wire to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be protected by a 15-amp fuse (max), which should be installed after all other steps are complete. Disconnect the negative battery cable before wiring the power wire.
The harness uses the following wire colors: yellow for left turn signal, green for right turn signal, red for brake signal, brown for taillight (running lights), and white for ground. These colors correspond to standard trailer lighting functions.
The signal circuits (left turn and right turn) are rated at 5.0 amps per side. The tail and running light circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically noted with red covers or a '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse has been installed.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before considering the installation complete.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Reinstall all items removed during installation.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
The 56517 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground systems. Wiring locations vary by vehicle. Consult the manufacturer or a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific make and model before purchasing.
You will need a ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, and electrical tape.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse is installed.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire connection if no existing fastener is available on the vehicle frame. A 3/32" pilot hole is drilled if needed. Check for hidden items before drilling to avoid damage.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA wire or larger for the battery connection. Route it to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components, and protect it with a grommet or silicone when passing through sheet metal.
Mount the converter box on a flat, clean surface away from spray and debris from the rear wheels using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to mount it in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire and installing the 15-amp fuse, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer to verify proper operation.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during routing, try pushing back down, wiggling it around, or twisting the wire to loosen it from what it is caught on. Ensure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before attempting to pull it through.
Verify that the harness is functioning by testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Ensure the 12-volt power wire is properly connected to the battery with the ring terminal, the 15-amp fuse is installed, the white ground wire is securely connected to the vehicle frame, and all factory harness connectors are properly seated and not damaged. Check that the negative battery terminal has been reconnected.
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