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2018 - 2024 Jeep Compass
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2018 - 2024 | Jeep Compass | — |
Yes, the 18-24 JEEP Compass 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1541 (Part #HBCW1541) is designed to fit the 2018-2024 Jeep Compass.
The 18-24 JEEP Compass 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1541 (Part #HBCW1541) fits the following vehicles: 2018-2024 Jeep Compass. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 18-24 JEEP Compass 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1541 (Part #HBCW1541) fits 2018-2024 Jeep Compass models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 18-24 JEEP Compass 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1541 (Part #HBCW1541) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 12174 is designed for 2017.5–present Jeep Compass SUV models. The manual confirms this application. If your Compass is a tow hook equipped model, follow the alternative installation path (steps 5, 6, 8, and 9 only), which uses the existing 14mm hex bolts from the vehicle frame.
CURT 12174 is rated for a maximum of 3,500 lbs trailer weight and 350 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The manual emphasizes this as a critical safety requirement.
CURT 12174 is designed for use with ball mount #45521 (euro mount). Optional ball mount configurations are available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball). Consult CURT's catalog or website for compatibility details.
Yes. All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information.
Required tools are: T30 Torq bit, 13mm socket, 15mm socket, 3/4" socket, 6" socket extension, ratchet, torque wrench, pliers, die grinder, aviation shears or tin snips, tape measure, masking tape, marker, and safety glasses. The manual lists these as essential for proper installation.
The kit includes: (6) 1/2"-13 UNC carriage bolts, grade 8, 1-3/4" long (part 10-10272); (2) M8×1.25 hex cap screws, 45mm, class 10.9 (part 10-10464); (6) 1/2"-13 UNC serrated flange nuts, grade 8 (part 20-00062); (6) 0.250" × 1.00" × 2.50" square hole spacers (part CM-SP10); and (6) 1/2" fishwires (part 1_2 FISHWIRE). All fasteners are provided; no factory hardware is reused for the main hitch attachment.
Temporary exhaust removal is recommended to ease installation. You must remove the (1) nut on each of the (2) rearward most exhaust hanger brackets using a 13mm socket. Support the exhaust before removing the nuts to prevent damage. To fully remove the exhaust, loosen the nut at the bolted connection in the middle of the vehicle with a 15mm socket. The exhaust is reinstalled in step 9.
You must: (1) Remove (2) T30 screws attaching the bumper fascia to body mounts and save them for reinstallation; (2) Remove (3) sheet metal nuts holding the heat shield, remove the heat shield, and trim the exhaust attachment tabs from it, then reinstall the heat shield center; (3) Trim a 2 1/2" side-to-side and 2 5/8" lengthwise cutout from the bumper cover using aviation shears or tin snips. These dimensions are reference only—check hitch location on your vehicle before trimming.
Yes. You must use a die grinder to enlarge the rearward most holes in the bottom of the frame to allow the supplied carriage bolts and spacers to pass through. Remove any plastic hole covers first. This is a permanent modification to the vehicle frame.
Using pliers, bend the (2) small locator tabs flat on each exhaust bracket or remove them entirely. Then reinstall the exhaust hanger and replace the factory hardware with an M8 tap bolt on each side. These modifications allow the hitch to fit without interference.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes this as a helpful consideration, particularly when raising the hitch into position and managing the bumper cover.
The installation is rated as CHALLENGING. The manual requires removal and modification of the exhaust, heat shield, and bumper cover; die grinder work; and precise measurement and trimming. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer for assistance. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners (carriage bolts and flange nuts) to 110 lb-ft. Torque all M8 fasteners (exhaust bracket bolts) to 23 lb-ft. The manual does not specify a torque value for M14 fasteners in the context of this hitch; the reference to 126 lb-ft for M14 appears in the general specifications but is not used in the 12174 installation steps.
Thread fishwires into the hitch mounting holes and raise the hitch into mounting position with the main body on the rearward side of the bumper fascia body mounts. Pull downward on the rear bumper cover approximately 5" to accomplish getting the hitch in position. Once positioned, remove the fishwires and install the (6) 1/2" hex flange nuts provided.
Standard installation sequence: (1) Remove bumper fascia screws; (2) Remove exhaust hanger nuts and support exhaust; (3) Remove and modify heat shield; (4) Enlarge frame holes and fishwire carriage bolts and spacers; (5) Mark and trim bumper cover cutout; (6) Modify exhaust brackets and reinstall with M8 bolts; (7) Raise hitch into position using fishwires and bumper cover; (8) Install flange nuts and torque fasteners; (9) Reinstall exhaust and bumper fascia screws. For tow hook equipped models, skip steps 2–3 and follow steps 5, 6, 8, and 9 only.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is critical to safe operation. The manual emphasizes this as a regular maintenance requirement, not a one-time check.
Wear safety glasses at all times while installing this product. Support the exhaust before removing hanger nuts to prevent damage. Use proper tools to improve installation quality and reduce time. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer. Technical support is available at 877-287-8634.
Yes. CURT 12174 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5, and SAE J684.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, CURT 12174 is designed for 2017.5–present Jeep Compass SUV. Tow hook equipped models use an alternative installation path.
T30 Torq bit, 13mm/15mm/3/4" sockets, 6" extension, ratchet, torque wrench, pliers, die grinder, aviation shears, tape measure, masking tape, marker, and safety glasses.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb-ft and all M8 fasteners to 23 lb-ft.
Wear safety glasses at all times. Support the exhaust before removing hanger nuts. If hesitant, contact an authorized CURT installer at 877-287-8634.
Periodically check the hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56369 Custom Wiring Harness is designed for Jeep Compass vehicles. It is also compatible with SUVs, mini and full-sized vans in the S-class category. For confirmation of fitment on your specific year and model, check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer.
The Curt 56369 has two circuit ratings: signal circuits are rated at 3.0 amps per side, and tail/running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these product ratings or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
You will need: ratchet, ratchet extension, T-25 Torx bit, T-30 Torx bit, flat blade screwdriver, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, fishwire, electrical tape, and a drill with a 3/32" bit. The manual also references a CME-PCL-INS sheet for battery power wire routing instructions.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a maximum 10-amp fuse. Do not exceed this rating, as it can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Yes, you must open the vehicle tailgate as the first step of installation. You will also need to remove trunk floor coverings, the rear scuff panel, side storage trays, and both taillights to access the wiring connectors and routing points.
The yellow wire end of the custom wiring harness is routed to the driver side taillight. It is inserted between the separated vehicle taillight connectors to integrate the custom harness with the factory wiring.
The green wire end of the custom wiring harness is routed to the passenger side taillight. It is inserted between the separated vehicle taillight connectors on the passenger side, following the same procedure as the yellow wire on the driver side.
Drilling may be required if a suitable grounding point is not available. You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided grounding screw. However, you can first check for an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame that can be used as a grounding point. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Remove the factory grommet from the floor panel, then cut a slit large enough to route the custom wiring harness through it. Route the harness end with the yellow wire out through the grommet opening and through the slit. After installation, reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires.
The black converter box should be adhered to a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight using the provided double-sided tape.
The white ground wire must be secured to a suitable grounding point near the connector using the provided ring terminal and screw. You can use an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The grounding area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness functions properly.
Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back of the scuff panel or break the hatch sensor located in the center of the vehicle under the rear scuff panel. Pull the panel up gently to avoid damage.
Remove the taillight by gently pulling rearward. Take care not to damage the locking tabs. When separating the taillight wiring harness connectors, also take care not to damage the locking tabs on the connectors.
Yes, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This should be done after routing the 4-flat connector and before reinstalling all removed items.
Yes, install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. This should be done as part of the final reinstallation step.
The Curt 56369 is designed for Jeep Compass and SUVs, mini and full-sized vans in the S-class category. Confirm fitment with your vehicle manufacturer.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. Do not exceed this rating as it can cause overheating and fire.
You will need: ratchet, ratchet extension, T-25 and T-30 Torx bits, flat blade screwdriver, wire stripper, wire crimper, cutting tool, fishwire, electrical tape, and a drill with 3/32" bit.
Drilling may be required only if no existing grounding point is available. A 3/32" pilot hole may be needed for the provided grounding screw. Check for existing vehicle frame screws first.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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