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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Drop | 3-1/4 IN |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 3,500 LB |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2019 - 2024 | Toyota Corolla | Hatchback |
The 19-24 Toyota Corolla Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2373 (Part #HBCW2373) fits 2019-2024 Toyota Corolla models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 19-24 Toyota Corolla Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2373 (Part #HBCW2373) is designed to fit the 2019-2024 Toyota Corolla.
The 19-24 Toyota Corolla Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2373 (Part #HBCW2373) fits the following vehicles: 2019-2024 Toyota Corolla. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 19-24 Toyota Corolla Hatchback 1.25 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2373 (Part #HBCW2373) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) is 2,000 lbs. Tongue weight (TW) is 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: ratchet, flathead screwdriver, 13/16" socket, 10mm socket, socket extension, drill, 1/2" drill bit, die grinder, torque wrench, paint marker, utility knife, tape measure, and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Yes. A die grinder is required to enlarge the drilled 1/2" hole to 1" on both the driver and passenger side frame rails during Step 6.
The kit includes: 4 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 x 1-1/2", grade 5), 4 square-hole spacers (1/4" x 1" x 2-1/2"), 4 flange nuts (7/16"-14), and 4 fishwire tools (7/16").
Installation requires: lowering the exhaust by removing three rearmost rubber exhaust hangers; trimming a 3" x 7" slot from the heat shield; and trimming a 2" x 11-1/4" slot from the underbody panel. These modifications are permanent.
Yes. You must lower the muffler by removing the three rearmost rubber exhaust hangers and support the exhaust to prevent damage during removal.
Use a 5/8" open end wrench: slide it up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the rubber isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps removal.
Trim a 3" x 7" slot from the heat shield. The heat shield is secured by three nuts (10mm socket) which must be removed before trimming.
Trim a 2" x 11-1/4" slot from the underbody panel. Push fasteners must be removed from the underbody panel using a flathead screwdriver before trimming.
Yes. Remove any caulk from the driver and passenger side frame rails using a utility knife. Also remove the rubber plugs on both frame rails before proceeding.
On both the driver and passenger side frame rails, drill a 1/2" hole, then use a die grinder to enlarge it to 1". The hitch bracket's rearmost hole aligns with an existing hole in the frame rail; the forward attachment hole is drilled new.
Yes. You must drill a 1/2" hole on both frame rails and enlarge each to 1" using a die grinder.
Insert the coiled end of the fishwire tool through the hitch mounting hole in the vehicle frame rail and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the square-hole spacer and thread the carriage bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. The fishwire guides the hitch during mounting and prevents loss of bolts or spacers inside the frame rail.
Fishwire the 7/16" carriage bolt and square-hole spacer from the drilled 1" hole into the rearmost existing hole on both sides. Then fishwire the carriage bolt and spacer into the newly drilled 1" hole on both sides. This allows the hitch to be guided into position without losing fasteners inside the frame rail.
Raise the trailer hitch into position, aligning the rearmost hole in the hitch bracket with the rear attachment hole in the frame rail. Mark the drilling locations for the forward attachment hole using a paint marker. Set the hitch aside before drilling.
After drilling and installing the bolts with fishwire, reinstall the trimmed heat shield. Raise the trailer hitch into position over the exhaust and onto the carriage bolts. Remove the fishwire. Loosely install the provided flange nuts. Do not push the fasteners into the frame rail.
Reinstall the underbody panel and exhaust hangers. Return the exhaust to its original position. Then tighten all fasteners with a torque wrench to 59 lb-ft (80 N·m).
Tighten all fasteners with a torque wrench to 59 lb-ft (80 N·m).
The carriage bolts are 7/16"-14 x 1-1/2", grade 5. Four bolts are included in the kit.
The flange nuts are 7/16"-14. Four nuts are included in the kit and are tightened to 59 lb-ft (80 N·m).
The square-hole spacers are 1/4" x 1" x 2-1/2". Four spacers are included in the kit and are installed between the carriage bolts and frame rail using the fishwire technique.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Support the exhaust to prevent damage during removal of the rubber hangers. Do not push fasteners into the frame rail when installing the heat shield. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Refer to the specified torque specifications (59 lb-ft / 80 N·m) when checking fasteners.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify an exact interval; consult your vehicle manufacturer's maintenance schedule or contact CURT Product Support at 877-287-8634 for recommendations.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, as well as helpful videos, guides and more. You can also contact CURT Product Support at 877-287-8634.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
The installation difficulty level is Moderate. Difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and proper tools and equipment.
The Curt 56454 is a powered converter system designed for SUVs and vans. It converts vehicle lighting signals (turn, brake, and tail lights) to a 4-flat trailer connector format. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with color-coded leads (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for tail light), and a powered converter lead that connects to the vehicle battery.
The Curt 56454 is designed for SUVs and Vans (S-series vehicles). The manual does not specify individual makes, model years, or body styles. Consult the product fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Do not use on any other electrical system configuration.
Required tools are: ratchet, cutting tool, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, electrical tape, and wire stripper. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
The kit includes: a converter box, color-coded wiring harness (yellow, green, red, brown leads), powered converter lead with 12 GA wire, double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, cable ties for securing loose wires, a 4-flat dust cover, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, a ring terminal for the white ground wire, a screw for ground wire attachment, and butt connectors.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Remove the floor coverings, skid plate (secured by two push fasteners), and trunk liner (secured by three small push fasteners in the sidewall and one in the floor). Repeat the trunk liner removal on both sides of the vehicle. You will also need to pull back the sidewall panels to access the taillight housings.
On the driver side, locate the taillight housing and separate the connectors carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Install the yellow wire between the separated connectors, then fully insert the connectors with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire. Route the green wire along the back of the trunk below the skid plate to reach the passenger side.
Locate a flat spot on the vehicle on the driver side and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
When in use, route the 4-flat to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Yellow wire = left turn signal; Green wire = right turn signal; Red wire = brake signal; Brown wire = tail light/running light. These color-coded leads connect to the converter box and ultimately to the 4-flat trailer connector.
The power wire is 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. This wire routes from the vehicle battery to the converter system and must be protected by a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Route the 12 GA black power wire from the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Connect the ring terminal to the positive (+) battery terminal. The white ground wire ring terminal should be attached to the vehicle body using the provided screw (drill a 3/32" hole if necessary). Install the fuse holder with 10-amp fuse after all other steps are complete.
When passing the 12 GA power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Signal circuits (turn signals): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
If necessary, drill a 3/32" hole to attach the white ground wire ring terminal to the vehicle body using the provided screw.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface. This prevents personal injury or property damage.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. This should be done before considering the installation complete.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
The Curt 56454 is designed for SUVs and Vans (S-series). Confirm your specific vehicle make, model, and year with the product fitment database or contact Curt Manufacturing.
You need: ratchet, cutting tool, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, electrical tape, and wire stripper.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation and reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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