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All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford Flex (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 5,000 lbs. GTW and 500 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
CURT custom wiring is the best option for equipping your vehicle with a trailer wiring connector. It offers a vehicle-specific solution with no need for cutting, splicing or soldering. However, if custom wiring is not available for your specific vehicle, CURT offers the taillight converter -- a universal trailer wiring option. This CURT taillight converter provides a standard 4-way flat connection for hooking up your trailer lights to your vehicle. It features highly durable construction, able to withstand harsh elements, road salt and vibrations. The converter is built with a potted enclosure in which the electrical components are encased in a solid compound that seals them off from moisture and impacts. Even when mounted outside, underneath the vehicle, it provides long-lasting dependability. This taillight converter is compatible with a wide variety of vehicles, including models from Dodge, Ford, GM, Honda, Kia, Mazda, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota, Volkswagen, Volvo and many others (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). The converter is designed to convert a 3-wire vehicle system to function with a 2-wire trailer system. The converter features color-coded wires and a wiring guide for easier installation, and it comes with snap locks for a secure connection (a powered taillight converter wiring kit, such as the CURT #55151, is also required for installation). Most CURT taillight converters are constructed with surface-mount technology or SMT. This type of circuitry features smaller electrical components that mount directly to the face of the circuit board, resulting in reduced heat generation, enhanced performance under vibration conditions, maximum light intensity and maximum operating life. CURT converters are also fully tested, both optically and load-tested, to ensure reliable performance.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 | Ford Flex | Without dual exhaust |
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No. The Curt 13551 receiver hitch is designed for Ford Flex vehicles but explicitly excludes EcoBoost models. If you have a Ford Flex with an EcoBoost engine, this hitch is not compatible.
The Curt 13551 has a gross load capacity of 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than these figures.
You will need: a drill with a 1-1/4" bit, a ratchet, a 10" extension, an 18mm socket, a 19mm socket, and a torque wrench. The torque wrench is essential because fasteners must be torqued to specific values (110 lb-ft for 1/2" bolts and 79 lb-ft for M12 fasteners).
Yes. The installation requires lowering the muffler brackets. The muffler brackets will be positioned between the frame and hitch bracket during installation. The M12 bolts on the forward edge of the muffler bracket on each side must be removed first and then re-installed after the hitch is in position.
Yes, drilling is required. You must drill a 1-1/4" access hole in the frame on each side (both driver and passenger sides), positioned approximately halfway between the existing M12 weldnut and the existing hole. This is a permanent modification to the vehicle frame.
Fishwire is used to route the 1/2" carriage bolts and spacers through the access holes you drill in the frame and out through the existing holes. The fishwires remain attached to the bolts and are then threaded through the hitch bracket to pull the bolts into position. This allows you to route the fasteners through the frame without direct access.
The kit includes: 2× 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts (1-3/4" long), 2× 0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers, 2× 1/2" fishwire, 2× 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts, 1× M12x1.75 class 10.9 hex cap screw (30mm), 1× 1/2" S-con washer, and 1× 0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00" square hole spacer. The M12 bolts from the muffler bracket are reused.
Yes. The M12 bolts removed from the forward edge of the muffler bracket in step 1 must be saved and re-installed in step 5 after the hitch is positioned. Do not discard these bolts.
All 1/2" bolts must be torqued to 110 lb-ft. All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 79 lb-ft. Hand-tighten all fasteners first, then apply final torque values using a torque wrench.
1. Remove the M12 bolts from the forward edge of the muffler bracket on each side (save these bolts). 2. Drill a 1-1/4" access hole in the frame on each side, approximately halfway between the M12 weldnut and existing hole. 3. Fishwire the 1/2" carriage bolts and spacers through the access holes and out the existing holes, leaving fishwires attached. 4. Raise the hitch into position against the frame with muffler brackets between frame and hitch. 5. Thread fishwires through the hitch and install 1/2" flange nuts; re-install the M12 bolts. Hand-tighten all fasteners. 6. Torque 1/2" bolts to 110 lb-ft and M12 fasteners to 79 lb-ft.
If the vehicle has a single exhaust, the passenger side uses items 5, 6, and 7 from the parts list in place of the bracket. These are: a 1/2" S-con washer (item 5), a 0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00" square hole spacer (item 6), and a 0.250 x 1.50 x 2.00" square hole spacer (item 7).
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain safe operation and prevents loosening of critical fasteners.
Curt Manufacturing warrants the product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If defective, Curt may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. The warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. Curt's liability is limited to repair or replacement and excludes incidental or consequential loss or damage.
The Curt 13551 fits Ford Flex vehicles, but excludes EcoBoost models. Confirm your vehicle is not an EcoBoost before purchasing.
Yes. You must drill two 1-1/4" access holes in the frame (one on each side). A drill with a 1-1/4" bit is required.
The hitch supports 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight, but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque all 1/2" bolts to 110 lb-ft and all M12 fasteners to 79 lb-ft. A torque wrench is required.
You need a drill with 1-1/4" bit, ratchet, 10" extension, 18mm socket, 19mm socket, and torque wrench.
Yes. You must remove the M12 bolts from the muffler bracket and lower it. The muffler brackets will sit between the frame and hitch bracket during installation.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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