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2020 - 2024 Ford Explorer
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 400 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 4,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 500 LB |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 7-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S7 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2020 - 2024 | Ford Explorer | — |
The 20-24 Ford Explorer 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW830 (Part #HBCW830) fits the following vehicles: 2020-2024 Ford Explorer. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 20-24 Ford Explorer 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW830 (Part #HBCW830) fits 2020-2024 Ford Explorer models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 20-24 Ford Explorer 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW830 (Part #HBCW830) is designed to fit the 2020-2024 Ford Explorer.
The 20-24 Ford Explorer 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW830 (Part #HBCW830) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
No. The 13386 requires no drilling. Installation uses existing holes in the frame rails and existing vehicle weldnuts. The installation does require lowering the exhaust system and using fishwire to route hardware through the frame.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 18mm socket, 3/4" socket, 19mm socket, 5/8" socket, and safety glasses. A 5/8" open-end wrench and pry bar are also needed for rubber isolator removal. For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Gross trailer weight (GTW): 4,000 lbs. Tongue weight (TW): 400 lbs. Weight distribution (WD): 5,000 lbs. WD tongue weight (WDTW): 500 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Torque all M12 hardware to 79 lb-ft and all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper fastener tension during installation.
Yes. The installation requires lowering the exhaust system by removing three rubber isolators. The exhaust must be supported during installation to prevent damage. After the hitch is secured, the exhaust is raised back into position.
Yes. Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Check hardware tightness regularly during use.
The kit includes: 4 hex bolts M12-1.75 x 40mm CL10.9, 4 conical-toothed washers 1/2", 1 fishwire 1/2", 1 serrated-flange nut 1/2"-13, 1 square-hole spacer 1/4" x 1" x 2-1/2", 1 carriage bolt 1/2"-13 x 1-1/2" grade 8, 4 flat washers 7/16", 2 nylock nuts 7/16"-14, and 2 hex bolts 7/16"-14 x 2-1/2" grade 8.
Use exhaust hanger removal pliers if available. If not, use a 5/8" open-end wrench: slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and rubber isolator helps removal.
The reverse pull fishwire technique is used to route the 1/2" carriage bolt and square-hole spacer through the existing hole in the passenger-side frame rail. Attach the fishwire to the carriage bolt, slide the spacer onto the fishwire, push the bolt through the hole followed by the spacer, then pull the bolt back into position protruding from the frame. This allows installation without drilling.
1. Remove three rubber isolators to lower the exhaust (support exhaust during installation). 2. Remove two rubber isolators from the muffler and remove the exhaust hanger and/or exhaust hanger with existing tow loop; return these to the vehicle owner. 3. Install the removed rubber isolators onto the trailer hitch with 7/16" hex bolts, flat washers, and nylock nuts. 4. Use reverse fishwire technique to route the 1/2" carriage bolt and square-hole spacer through the existing hole in the passenger-side frame rail. 5. Raise the trailer hitch into position and secure with M12 hex bolts and 1/2" conical-toothed washers into existing vehicle weldnuts; secure the 1/2" carriage bolt with serrated-flange nut. 6. Torque all M12 hardware to 79 lb-ft and 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft. Raise the exhaust back into position.
The two rubber isolators removed from the muffler in Step 2 are installed onto the trailer hitch in Step 3. They are secured using the provided 7/16" hex bolts (#9), 7/16" flat washers (#7), and nylock nuts (#8).
The M12 hex bolts are secured using 1/2" conical-toothed washers and are fastened into existing vehicle weldnuts on both the driver-side and passenger-side frame rails. These bolts are torqued to 79 lb-ft.
The 1/2" carriage bolt (1/2"-13 x 1-1/2" grade 8) is secured with a serrated-flange nut (1/2"-13). This fastener is torqued to 110 lb-ft.
The rubber isolators are secured to the hitch using 7/16" hex bolts (7/16"-14 x 2-1/2" grade 8), 7/16" flat washers, and 7/16"-14 nylock nuts. Two isolators are installed, requiring two bolts, two washers, and two nuts.
Yes. The manual explicitly states: "Support the exhaust during installation to prevent damage." This is required when lowering the exhaust by removing the rubber isolators in Step 1.
The exhaust hanger and/or exhaust hanger with existing tow loop removed in Step 2 should be returned to the vehicle owner. These components are not part of the hitch installation.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing the CURT 13386. Additionally, the exhaust must be supported during installation to prevent damage. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
The installation difficulty is rated as Easy. However, the manual notes that installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, helpful videos, guides, and more. For product support, call 877.287.8634. For a tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation. For towing safety information, visit curtmfg.com/understanding-towing. To register your purchase or access warranty information, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 56306 is designed for Ford Explorer and other SUVs, mini and full-sized vans in the S-series category. The connector mounts behind the passenger side rear bumper (location S7) and interfaces with the black vehicle tow plug located behind the rear tire along the frame rail.
The Curt 56306 is a custom wiring connector that interfaces between your vehicle's factory tow plug and a 7-way trailer connector. It provides connections for stop/turn lights, taillights, backup lights, battery power, trailer brakes, and reverse lights, allowing you to safely tow a trailer with proper lighting and brake control.
The Curt 56306 has seven color-coded wires: White (1) is ground, Blue (2) is trailer brake, Brown (3) is tail and running light, Black (4) is battery positive, Yellow (5) is left turn and brake, Green (6) is right turn and brake, and Red (7) is reverse lights. Each wire connects to a specific terminal on the 7-way connector.
The Curt 56306 has the following amperage ratings: Stop/Turn Light – 10 amps, Taillights – 10 amps, Backup – 10 amps, Power Circuit – 30 amps, and Trailer Brakes (3 Axles/6 Brakes) – 20 amps. Do not exceed these ratings or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. This is the first step in the installation process and is required for safety.
The black vehicle tow plug is located behind the rear tire along the frame rail. You will separate the connectors on this plug and insert the custom wiring connector between them.
Locate the black vehicle tow plug behind the rear tire along the frame rail. Carefully separate the connectors, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring connector between the separated tow plug connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the seven-wire end of the custom connector along the inside of the bumper toward the center of the vehicle to the 7-way mounting location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties to prevent movement and damage.
The manual does not specify any tools needed for installation. The installation process involves disconnecting the battery terminal, separating and reconnecting connectors, and routing wires with provided cable ties.
After installation is complete, test and verify the product by one of these methods: if your vehicle is equipped with a brake controller, use a properly wired trailer or a brake system tester; if not equipped with a brake controller, use a properly wired trailer or test lamps. For the initial test, reset the electrical system by temporarily removing the vehicle key from the ignition. Note that the battery positive output may not be active until the vehicle is started and the brake is depressed with the trailer connected.
The manual does not specify a maximum towing load rating. It only provides amperage ratings for individual circuits and warns not to exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for towing capacity information.
Yes, the Curt 56306 is designed for Ford Explorer and other SUVs, mini and full-sized vans (S-series). It mounts behind the passenger side rear bumper.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it after all connections are complete.
Stop/Turn Light and Taillights: 10 amps each; Backup: 10 amps; Power Circuit: 30 amps; Trailer Brakes (3 Axles/6 Brakes): 20 amps. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating.
The connector inserts between the separated connectors of the black vehicle tow plug located behind the rear tire along the frame rail. The seven-wire end routes to a 7-way mounting location behind the passenger side rear bumper.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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