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Complete kit bundle containing all necessary components for your project. Professional-grade components designed for reliable performance and long-lasting durability.
Want to take the family on a cross-country adventure? Or perhaps you're planning a shorter trip to your favorite campground. Whatever your destination, it's important to have the right equipment, especially when towing a fifth wheel trailer. To ensure proper hookup and safety while towing, you'll need something to attach your fifth wheel hitch in the bed on your truck. Many pickups come equipped with factory-installed rails or puck systems, but if you don't have one of these already installed, don't worry. REESE has an extensive line of mounting rails and bracket kits, custom-made to the exact specifications needed based on your truck's year, make, and model. REESE also offers several Industry Standard designs, as well as fastener kits, spacer kits, and a Power Puck mounting kit, so you can be sure you're covered, no matter what pickup you're using to tow. So make it easy. Make it fun. Make it REESE, so you can make the journey as enjoyable as the destination.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 30035 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED 10 YEAR WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 53.5 LBS |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| WELDING REQUIRED: | NO |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| RAILS INCLUDED: | YES |
| DRILLING REQUIRED: | YES |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 |
| LOCKABLE: | NO |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
Towing and trailering require the right equipment, and sometimes that equipment requires accessories. Thankfully, REESE has all the 'things' to make pulling your fifth wheel easier and safer than ever before. From fifth wheel covers, lube plates, and kits of all kinds to mounting rails, gooseneck hitches, and everything in between, REESE's extensive line of accessories is your one-stop-shop. Providing quick and easy installation, unmatched safety, reliability, and performance have made REESE the brand of choice among novice and professional towers alike for nearly 70 years! Towing is an adventure which is why REESE wants you to have everything you need to enjoy the journey as much as the destination.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 49080 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED 10 YEAR WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 35.95 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 25,000 LBS. |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
| LOCKABLE: | NO |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | NO |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| FINISH: | BLACK POWDER COAT |
Professional grade component designed for reliable performance and long-lasting durability.
Keywords: RE300354908021406 bundle kit, complete kit, professional components, industrial kit, RE30035, RE49080, RE50040,
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
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The 30035 is a fifth wheel hitch base rail mounting kit designed to attach fifth wheel hitches to the truck bed of compatible pickup trucks. It is a 10-bolt rail kit that uses Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and washers to secure mounting brackets to the truck frame and bed. The kit includes two base rails, mounting brackets, spacers, carriage bolts, and hardware. It is manufactured by Reese Products (Horizon Global) and is compatible with a wide range of Chevrolet, GMC, Ford, Dodge/RAM, Toyota, and Nissan pickup trucks from 1973 to current models, though specific applications vary by year, cab style, and bed length.
The 30035 is compatible with many Chevrolet, GMC, Ford, Dodge/RAM, Toyota, and Nissan pickup trucks, but fitment depends on the specific year, model, cab style, and bed length. The manual includes detailed installation diagrams for Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra (1973–2016), Ford F-150/F-250/F-350 (1973–2016), Dodge/RAM 1500/2500/3500 (1973–2012), Toyota Tundra (2000–current), Nissan Titan (2004–2015), and Dodge Dakota (1994–2004). Before purchasing, verify your truck's year, model, cab type, and bed length against the manual's vehicle-specific pages (pages 5–17) or visit www.ReeseProducts.com to confirm compatibility. Some applications require additional kits (see page 18).
No, plastic bed liners must be cut out of the way before installation. The manual states: "Do not install mounting rails over plastic bed liners. Plastic bed liners must be cut out of the way." However, spray-in bed liners are permitted. The manual notes: "Base rails may be installed on spray in liner. Note: Consult installer for recommended curing time." If you have a spray-in liner, confirm with the installer that it has cured sufficiently before installation begins.
The minimum bed length is 6 feet without a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox. The manual states: "DO NOT INSTALL ON OR ATTEMPT TO TOW WITH A TRUCK HAVING LESS THAN A 6' BED WITHOUT A REESE SIDEWINDERTM PINBOX INSTALLED ON THE TRAILER." Short bed trucks (with a minimum of 38" from the back of the cab to the axle centerline) require either a 13" extended pin box or a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox for regular maneuvers. If your truck has a bed shorter than 6 feet, you must use a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox on the trailer.
For long bed trucks, the center of the hitch should be at least 52" from the back of the cab to prevent the trailer from hitting the cab when the trailer is turned 90°. The actual distance required depends on the trailer width and king pin location. Short bed trucks (minimum 38" from back of cab to axle centerline) do not require the 52" measurement if equipped with a 13" extended pin box or Reese Sidewinder Pinbox. Always measure your specific truck and trailer before installation to ensure adequate clearance at both the cab and bumper for turns.
A Reese Sidewinder Pinbox is required for certain short-bed and crew-cab applications. Specifically: trucks with beds shorter than 6 feet require a Sidewinder Pinbox on the trailer; 2004–2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 crew cabs with ~5'8" beds require a Sidewinder Pinbox; 2004–2014 Ford F-150 and 2015+ Ford F-150 with ~5'2" beds require a Sidewinder Pinbox; 2007+ Toyota Tundra CrewMax with ~5.5' bed requires a Sidewinder Pinbox; and several RAM and Nissan models with ~5'2" beds require a Sidewinder Pinbox. Check page 18 of the manual for your specific truck model and bed length, or visit www.ReeseProducts.com for current vehicle listings.
Some vehicles require additional kits to complete installation. Check page 18 of the manual for your specific truck model. For example: 2000–2006 Toyota Tundra requires kit 58197; 2007+ Toyota Tundra requires kit 58309; 2003–2012 Dodge RAM 2500/3500 with overload brackets requires kit 58186; 2004–2015 Nissan Titan requires kit 58405; 2004–2014 Ford F-150 requires kit 58426N; 2015+ Ford F-150 requires kit 58545N; and several RAM models require kits 58386N, 58520N, 58522N, or 58523N. Do not start installation until you have read the instructions included with any additional kits, as they contain important details.
The following tools are required: 1/8" drill bit, 17/32" drill bit, 3/4" socket and open-end wrench, 100 lb-ft torque wrench, and C-clamps. Some Dodge applications also require a 1" drill bit. A jack and jack stands are needed to raise and support the truck. The manual recommends that the truck be raised high enough to allow jack stands to be placed under the rear spring hanger bracket to provide maximum room for installation.
The kit includes: 2 long brackets, 2 short brackets, 10 1/2" spacers, 2 spacers, 10 carriage bolts, 8 knurled bolts, 18 1/2" nuts, 18 1/2" lockwashers, 6 1/2" serrated washers, 4 1/2" flat washers, 2 4-1/2" carriage bolts, 2 tube spacers, 2 base rails, and 1 pull wire. The manual notes: "NOT ALL HARDWARE IS GOING TO BE USED ON ALL INSTALLATIONS." The specific hardware used depends on your vehicle's configuration. All bolts are Grade 5 and nuts are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise.
1. Raise the rear of the truck high enough to allow jack stands to be placed under the rear spring hanger bracket. Ensure the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent it from falling. 2. Remove any plastic bed liners; spray-in liners may remain if cured. 3. Familiarize yourself with all parts by checking them against the parts list (Fig. 1). 4. Locate the vehicle-specific installation diagram for your truck model and year (pages 5–17). 5. Before drilling, check for obstructions such as fuel lines, brake lines, and structural members beneath the truck bed. 6. Gather all required tools: 1/8" and 17/32" drill bits, 3/4" socket and open-end wrench, 100 lb-ft torque wrench, and C-clamps.
1. Center the hitch between the fender wells. 2. Make sure the rails are square by adjusting their position until both diagonal measurements (measured from the same reference point on the truck bed) are the same. This ensures the rails are parallel and will allow proper installation of a gooseneck or other fifth wheel. 3. Refer to the vehicle-specific diagram for your truck model (pages 5–17) to determine the correct distance from the rear edge of the truck bed to the rear edge of the base rail. Distances vary by vehicle; for example, 2011–2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 HD with an 8' box requires 29¾", while a 6' box requires 25¼". 4. Once positioned correctly, proceed to drilling.
Yes, drilling is required. The installation involves drilling 10 holes in the truck bed and frame. The process is: 1. Drill all 10 holes with a 1/8" drill bit as pilot holes. 2. Temporarily position the frame brackets to the frame and align them with the pilot holes to ensure the brackets and holes in the bed align without interference with any structure below the truck bed. 3. If holes do not align, restart positioning at step 7. 4. Enlarge the pilot holes with a 17/32" drill bit. 5. Install 1/2" carriage bolts into the enlarged holes. Some Dodge applications may also require a 1" drill bit. Always check for obstructions (fuel lines, brake lines, structural members) before drilling.
Three drill bit sizes are used: 1/8" for pilot holes, 17/32" for enlarging holes in the chassis frame, and 1" for some Dodge applications. The manual emphasizes: "It is important that 17/32" drill be used for holes in chassis frame as rib neck bolts may break if too small a hole is used and neck may not grip if too large a hole is used." Always use the correct size to ensure proper bolt grip and prevent bolt failure.
Bracket modifications are required for specific vehicles. For Dodge Dakota (1994–2004), the manual states: "Cut 1" from top flange of brackets. Under bed, mount brackets with flanges facing out." For other vehicles, no cutting is mentioned. However, the manual notes that on some vehicles, long and short brackets may need to be switched or repositioned to avoid interference with exhaust hangers, fuel lines, brake cable hangers, or overload springs. Refer to your vehicle-specific installation diagram (pages 5–17) for any required bracket modifications.
The primary permanent modification is drilling 10 holes in the truck bed and frame. For Dodge Dakota models, cutting 1" from the top flange of brackets is required. Plastic bed liners must be cut away or removed. On some vehicles, brackets may need to be repositioned or switched to avoid interference with factory components. The manual notes that on 2013 RAM 2500 HD, a tube spacer must be dropped through a hole in the truck bed to avoid crushing the bed sill when torquing the 4-1/2" carriage bolt. These modifications are permanent and cannot be easily reversed.
All nuts must be torqued to 85 lb-ft. However, there is one important exception: for 1973–1987 Chevrolet and GMC models (both with outside and inside shock absorbers), the manual states: "DO NOT Torque to 85lb-ft (tighten but do not crush bed sill)." For these older models, tighten the nuts firmly but do not apply full torque to avoid crushing the bed sill. Use a 100 lb-ft torque wrench for all other applications.
The kit uses 1/2" carriage bolts, 1/2"-13x1-3/8" ribbed neck bolts (rib neck bolts), and 4-1/2" carriage bolts. All bolts are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise. The manual states: "Use only HORIZON GLOBAL supplied bolts, nuts, and washers to install this kit. All bolts are Grade 5 and nuts are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise." Rib neck bolts have threads pointing outward and must be lubricated on the knurls only; do not lubricate the threads, as this may cause bolt failure.
Spacers fill corrugations and gaps in the truck bed floor to ensure proper bolt seating and prevent crushing of the bed. The kit includes 1/2" spacers and 5/16" thick slotted spacers. For most vehicles, a 5/16" thick slotted spacer is installed above or below the bed to fill corrugations. For Toyota 2000–2006 Tundra, part #58197 spacer kit is required; stack one 3/16" and one 5/16" thick slotted spacer to avoid crushing the truck bed. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, a tube spacer is used with the 4-1/2" carriage bolt to attach through the rear bed sill (Row 3) and avoid crushing the bed sill when torquing.
1. Install mounting brackets onto carriage bolts with long brackets on forward bolts and short brackets on rearward bolts. (Long and short brackets can be interchanged as needed for your specific vehicle.) 2. Secure bolts through mounting brackets with serrated washers, lock washers, and hex nuts. 3. Secure the other four bolts through the bed with flat washers, lock washers, and nuts. 4. Drill two holes in the frame for each bracket, selecting the holes that give the greatest spread between bolts. 5. Install eight 1/2"-13x1-3/8" ribbed neck bolts (threads pointing out), lock washers, and hex nuts. Tighten nuts until bolt heads seat. 6. Lubricate the knurls of all rib neck bolts (do not lubricate threads). 7. Torque all nuts to 85 lb-ft. Refer to your vehicle-specific diagram for bracket positioning and row placement.
The pull wire is provided to pull rib neck bolts through the frame as needed per application. On some vehicles, particularly those with tubular frames or complex frame designs, the rib neck bolts cannot be easily inserted from the outside. The pull wire allows the installer to thread the bolts through access holes in the frame. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, the manual notes: "Rib neck bolts will need to be pulled through access holes in frame with supplied pull wire. Wire extensions will need to be added on to the pull wires for the forward rib bolts." If you encounter difficulty inserting bolts, use the pull wire as directed in your vehicle-specific installation diagram.
The bed sill is a critical structural component, and drilling in the wrong location can cause damage. Follow these steps: 1. Find the parallel rows of bed sill spot welds in the truck bed. 2. Do not drill in the ~4" gap between the parallel rows of spot welds where the bed sill sits. 3. Refer to your vehicle-specific diagram (pages 5–17) to identify the correct rows for drilling. 4. After positioning the rails, temporarily install the frame brackets and align them with pilot holes to ensure they do not interfere with the bed sill. 5. If holes do not align without interference, restart positioning. 6. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, ensure brackets in Row 2 are close to the rear side of the bed sill as shown in the diagram to avoid interference when drilling in Row 3. Always check for obstructions before drilling.
The manual states: "Must install center bolt in one of the center holes in each rail. Check to make sure center bolt does not interfere with bed sill." This note appears on all vehicle-specific diagrams. The center bolt refers to one of the bolts that passes through the center holes of each base rail. You must select one of the center holes for bolt installation and verify that it does not interfere with the bed sill structure before drilling.
The manual includes a critical warning: "If the truck is raised, be sure that the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent the truck from falling. Failure to do so may result in the truck suddenly falling, causing death or serious injury." Specifically: 1. Raise the rear of the truck high enough to allow jack stands to be placed under the rear spring hanger bracket. 2. Use jack stands to support the truck; do not rely on a jack alone. 3. Ensure the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent it from falling. 4. Never work under a truck supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands as the primary support.
Before drilling, you must check for obstructions beneath the truck bed. The manual states: "Check for obstructions before drilling. Failure to do so could result in damaged fuel or brake lines, structural members, etc." Specifically, check for: fuel lines, brake lines, and structural members. The manual notes: "HORIZON GLOBAL does its best to communicate tow vehicle manufacturer changes; however, it is ultimately the responsibility of the installer to prevent damage due to installation." If you are unsure about what lies beneath the truck bed, consult the truck's service manual or a professional installer.
Lubricate only the knurls of the rib neck bolts. The manual includes a warning: "DO NOT lubricate threads. It may cause bolt failure." The knurls are the ridged portions of the bolt that grip the frame. Lubricating the threads can weaken the bolt and cause it to fail under load. Apply lubricant to the knurled (ridged) surface only, not to the threaded portion.
After installation, perform the following checks: 1. Verify that all nuts are torqued to 85 lb-ft (or tightened firmly without crushing the bed sill for 1973–1987 Chevrolet/GMC models). 2. Ensure the hitch is centered between the fender wells and that both diagonal measurements are the same. 3. Confirm that the center bolt does not interfere with the bed sill. 4. Check that the hitch center is at least 52" from the back of the cab (for long bed trucks) or meets the minimum distance for short bed trucks. 5. Verify that all brackets are properly seated and secure. 6. Check for any interference with suspension components, exhaust hangers, fuel lines, or brake cable hangers. 7. Measure the truck and trailer to ensure adequate clearance at the cab and bumper for turns. The manual states: "Always measure truck and trailer before installing hitch to be sure that there is clearance at the cab and at the bumper to allow for turns."
The manual does not provide a specific maintenance schedule. However, it is recommended that you periodically inspect the installation to ensure all bolts remain tight and that there is no rust or corrosion on the hardware. If you notice any loose bolts, retorque them to 85 lb-ft. For warranty information, the kit is covered by a 10-year limited warranty against defects in material and workmanship under normal use. For specific maintenance recommendations, contact Reese Products at 1-800-632-3290.
If the frame brackets do not align with the holes in the bed after drilling pilot holes, the manual instructs: "If holes do not align with the brackets and rails, restart installation at step 7." This means you must reposition the base rails until both diagonal measurements are the same, ensuring the rails are square and centered between the fender wells. Then repeat the drilling process with new pilot holes. Do not force misaligned brackets, as this can cause improper installation and potential failure.
If rib neck bolts do not fit or grip properly, the hole size is likely incorrect. The manual emphasizes: "It is important that 17/32" drill be used for holes in chassis frame as rib neck bolts may break if too small a hole is used and neck may not grip if too large a hole is used." If holes are too small, the bolt may break; if too large, the knurled neck will not grip. Verify that you used a 17/32" drill bit to enlarge the pilot holes. If the holes are incorrect, you may need to drill new holes in a different location or consult a professional installer. The pull wire provided can help pull bolts through frame access holes if needed.
If the center bolt interferes with the bed sill, you must reposition the base rails. The manual notes on all vehicle-specific diagrams: "Check to make sure center bolt does not interfere with bed sill." If interference occurs, adjust the position of the rails forward or backward (typically +/- 1/2") and re-drill the pilot holes. Ensure both diagonal measurements remain the same to keep the rails square. Do not force a bolt through the bed sill, as this can cause structural damage.
If brackets interfere with exhaust hangers or fuel lines, the manual provides several solutions depending on your vehicle: 1. Switch the positions of the long and short brackets on the driver's side (noted for Ford 1997–2003 F-150 and some other models). 2. Move the base rail location +/- 1/2" to ensure frame brackets do not interfere with bed sills or other components. 3. For some vehicles, reposition forward brackets to Row 2 to avoid brake cable hangers and overload springs. Refer to your vehicle-specific installation diagram (pages 5–17) for recommended bracket positions. If interference persists, consult a professional installer or contact Reese Products at 1-800-632-3290.
The manual notes: "On vehicles with heavy duty suspensions, check for interference with bolts where brackets are mounted to frame. If interference with suspension spring results, cut bolt flush to nut outboard of frame or use weld option." If bolts interfere with suspension springs, you have two options: 1. Cut the bolt flush to the nut on the outboard side of the frame, or 2. Use the optional weld method instead of bolts. Consult your vehicle-specific diagram for the optional weld pattern, or contact a professional installer if you are unsure how to proceed.
If the truck bed is being crushed when torquing bolts, spacers are not being used correctly. The manual states: "Install 5/16" thick slotted spacer above or below bed to fill corrugations in bed floor." Spacers prevent the bed from being crushed by distributing the clamping force. For Toyota 2000–2006 Tundra, stack one 3/16" and one 5/16" thick slotted spacer to avoid crushing. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, drop a tube spacer through a hole in the truck bed before torquing the 4-1/2" carriage bolt. If crushing has already occurred, stop torquing immediately and verify that spacers are properly installed before continuing. For 1973–1987 Chevrolet/GMC models, do not torque to 85 lb-ft; tighten only until the bolt head seats to avoid crushing the bed sill.
A Reese Sidewinder Pinbox is required for trucks with beds shorter than 6 feet and for certain crew-cab models with ~5'2" beds. Check page 18 of the manual for your specific truck model and bed length, or visit www.ReeseProducts.com.
Required tools: 1/8" and 17/32" drill bits, 3/4" socket and open-end wrench, 100 lb-ft torque wrench, C-clamps, jack, and jack stands. Some Dodge applications also require a 1" drill bit.
Torque all nuts to 85 lb-ft. Exception: for 1973–1987 Chevrolet and GMC models, tighten firmly but do not crush the bed sill (do not apply full 85 lb-ft torque).
Use jack stands to support the truck; never work under a truck supported only by a jack. Ensure the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent falling. Check for fuel lines, brake lines, and structural members before drilling. Do not lubricate threads of rib neck bolts; lubricate knurls only.
The minimum bed length is 6 feet without a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox. Short bed trucks require a 13" extended pin box or Reese Sidewinder Pinbox.
Restart installation at step 7 (positioning the rails). Reposition the base rails until both diagonal measurements are the same, ensuring the rails are square and centered between the fender wells. Then repeat the drilling process with new pilot holes. Do not force misaligned brackets, as this can cause improper installation and potential failure.
Verify that you used a 17/32" drill bit to enlarge the pilot holes. The manual states: "It is important that 17/32" drill be used for holes in chassis frame as rib neck bolts may break if too small a hole is used and neck may not grip if too large a hole is used." If holes are too small, the bolt may break; if too large, the knurled neck will not grip. If holes are incorrect, drill new holes in a different location or consult a professional installer. The pull wire provided can help pull bolts through frame access holes if needed.
Reposition the base rails forward or backward (typically +/- 1/2") and re-drill the pilot holes. Ensure both diagonal measurements remain the same to keep the rails square. Do not force a bolt through the bed sill, as this can cause structural damage.
Refer to your vehicle-specific installation diagram (pages 5–17) for recommended bracket positions. Solutions may include: 1. Switching the positions of long and short brackets on the driver's side, 2. Moving the base rail location +/- 1/2", or 3. Repositioning forward brackets to Row 2. If interference persists, consult a professional installer or contact Reese Products at 1-800-632-3290.
If bolts interfere with suspension springs, you have two options: 1. Cut the bolt flush to the nut on the outboard side of the frame, or 2. Use the optional weld method instead of bolts (shown on the vehicle-specific diagram). Consult your vehicle-specific diagram for the optional weld pattern, or contact a professional installer if you are unsure how to proceed.
Stop torquing immediately. Spacers are not being used correctly. Verify that a 5/16" thick slotted spacer is installed above or below the bed to fill corrugations. For Toyota 2000–2006 Tundra, ensure one 3/16" and one 5/16" thick slotted spacer are stacked. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, ensure a tube spacer is dropped through a hole in the truck bed before torquing the 4-1/2" carriage bolt. For 1973–1987 Chevrolet/GMC models, do not torque to 85 lb-ft; tighten only until the bolt head seats to avoid crushing the bed sill.
The Pro Series Gooseneck (part number 49080) is a truck bed gooseneck trailer hitch designed to tow trailers. It mounts to truck bed base rails and allows the trailer ball to be positioned over or in front of the tow vehicle's axle center for optimal towing performance. The gooseneck can be installed in either a rear or forward position on the base rails.
Yes. Base rails are sold separately and are required for installation. You will need to install a base rail mounting kit (either 30439 or 30035) according to the base rail kit instructions before installing the gooseneck.
The maximum trailer weight is 25,000 lbs and the maximum tongue weight is 6,250 lbs. You must not exceed the manufacturer's GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) for your vehicle.
Yes, the gooseneck can be installed in either the rear or forward position on the base rails. However, the ball must not be positioned behind the axle center of the tow vehicle. For best towing performance, install the gooseneck so the ball is over or in front of the tow vehicle's axle center.
Install pull pins through the gooseneck and base rails, then lock them in place with spring cotter pins.
Secure the safety chains through the slots on the sides of the gooseneck plate.
Drilling is required only if you are using the 30095 base rail application and the two center bolts are not already installed. In that case, you must drill a ½" hole through the truck bed using the center hole in the base rail as a guide. Before drilling, you must check for clearance around the gas tank and any other obstructions.
For the 30095 application, the hardware includes: ½" carriage bolt (part 29), spacer (part 30), serrated washer (part 31), lock washer (part 32), and ½" hex nut (part 33). Two sets of this hardware are required, one for each base rail.
The spacer (part 30) is inserted between the truck bed and the base rail at the bed's corrugation. It prevents the truck bed from being crushed when the bolt is tightened.
The ½" nuts on the center bolts must be torqued to 75 ft/lbs.
Install the bolt in whichever position is closer to the under-bed support. The manual indicates that you should install the bolt in either position, choosing the one nearest to the under-bed support structure.
Check the hitch periodically to ensure that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection is critical for safe operation.
No, base rails are sold separately. You must purchase a base rail mounting kit (30439 or 30035) and install it according to the kit instructions before installing the gooseneck.
The ball must not be behind the axle center. For best towing, position it over or in front of the tow vehicle's axle center.
Drilling is required only for the 30095 application if the two center bolts are not already installed. You must drill a ½" hole through the truck bed and check for gas tank clearance before drilling.
The ½" nuts must be torqued to 75 ft/lbs.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
No. The 50040 is designed for Dodge Ram 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton models from 2002–2008 (1500) and 2003–2012 (2500), but explicitly excludes Megacab models.
The maximum gross trailer weight is 18,000 lb. (8,160 kg) and the maximum tongue weight is 4,500 lb. (2,040 kg). However, you must not exceed the lower of this rating or your towing vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The kit includes: 1 left frame bracket (A), 1 right frame bracket (B), 2 front straps (C), 2 front spacer straps (D), 2 rear straps (E), 8 carriage bolts (1/2" × 4-1/2"), 2 carriage bolts (1/2" × 4"), 6 carriage bolts (1/2" × 2-1/4"), 16 hex nuts (1/2"), 4 rear bushings (black), 4 front bushings (colored), 6 front bushings (yellow), 8 U-shaped spacers, 6 spacers (1/4" × 1-1/2" × 2"), 2 spacers (1/4" × 2" × 3"), 1 plastic wire tie, and 16 lock washers (1/2"). The 5th wheel mounting rails are not included.
Required tools include: center punch, 1/8" drill bit, 1/2" drill bit, 9/16" drill bit, 3/4" step drill, 3/4" wrench and socket, 13mm socket, 100 ft-lbs (203 N-m) torque wrench, and measuring tape. For 6' truck boxes only, a reciprocating saw (Saws All) is also required to cut the box support extensions.
Yes. The spare tire must be lowered and removed before installation begins, and it is reinstalled as the final step after all fasteners are torqued and the wire harness is secured.
Yes. The emergency brake cable hanger on the driver's side wheel well must be removed and kept along with its bolts before installation. It is reinstalled loosely in step 12 and then tightened in step 19 after the frame brackets are torqued.
The manual does not require battery disconnection. However, you must detach the two electrical harness hanger plugs from the inside driver's side of the frame just rear of the fuel tank, and remove the ground wire attachment from the frame if required.
Yes. Drilling is required. You must drill holes using a 1/8" bit first, then enlarge them with a 3/4" step drill to the sizes specified in the illustrations. You must also drill a 1/2" hole through the bottom of the box support using a bushing as a guide, then re-drill that hole with a 9/16" bit.
Yes. On 6' truck boxes only, you must use a reciprocating saw to cut off the extension attached to the truck box support beams that straddles the frame. This extension is not a structural part and is used only by the manufacturer during assembly. This cutting is required to allow the frame brackets to mount to the outside of the truck frame.
No. Plastic bed liners must be cut out of the way to provide metal-to-metal contact between the mounting rails and the truck bed. Spray-in liners are acceptable and do not need to be removed.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 72 ft-lbs (203 N-m). The torque sequence is: first torque the mounting rails to the frame brackets, then torque the frame brackets to the truck frame. A 100 ft-lbs (203 N-m) torque wrench is required.
1. Lower and remove spare tire. 2. Remove emergency brake cable hanger (driver's side). 3. Detach electrical harness plugs (driver's side, rear of fuel tank). 4. Remove ground wire if required. 5. On 6' boxes only, cut box support extensions with reciprocating saw. 6. Place first mounting rail in truck box, centered between weld seams. 7. Mark and center punch holes, drill with 1/8" bit. 8. Temporarily position frame bracket and verify hole alignment. 9. Enlarge holes with step drill. 10. Install bushings using 1/2" drill bit as guide, drill 1/2" hole through box support, re-drill with 9/16" bit. 11. Loosely install frame brackets with straps, bushings, bolts and nuts. 12. Loosely install emergency brake cable hanger. 13. Position first mounting rail, insert 4" carriage bolts and front bushings. 14. Install 2½" carriage bolts with U-shaped spacers in corrugations. 15. Position second mounting rail with 5th wheel saddles/slider/goose. 16. Repeat steps 7, 9, and 14 for second rail. 17. Reinstall ground wire if removed. 18. Torque all fasteners (72 ft-lbs for 1/2" hardware): first the mounting rails to frame brackets, then frame brackets to truck frame. 19. Tighten emergency brake cable hanger bolts. 20. Secure wire harness with supplied plastic tie. 21. Reinstall spare tire.
Use colored bushings and colored straps in the front. Use black bushings and black straps in the rear. The front spacer strap (D) is required only on 1500 applications.
Use 1/2" × 4-1/2" carriage bolts (8 total) for general frame bracket attachment. Use 1/2" × 4" carriage bolts (2 total) for the front of the mounting rail with front bushings—these are the bolts that require fuel tank protection on the driver's side. Use 1/2" × 2-1/4" carriage bolts (6 total) for other mounting points. All bolts are Grade 5.
During drilling on the driver's side, place a piece of metal between the box support and the fuel tank to prevent drilling through the fuel tank. Be sure to use only 4" carriage bolts in this location.
Always measure the truck and trailer before installing the hitch to ensure there is sufficient clearance at the cab and at the bumper to allow the vehicle to turn. Installation is the responsibility of the installer and owner.
Each mounting rail must be centered between the weld seams on the length of the truck box floor and positioned at the proper distance from the rear edge of the truck box as illustrated in the manual. The second rail is positioned using the 5th wheel saddles/slider/goose to ensure correct alignment and a snug fit.
U-shaped spacers are installed with the 2½" carriage bolts and positioned in the corrugation between the truck box and the mounting rail. They ensure metal-to-metal contact between the rail and the box.
Frame brackets and straps are installed loosely in step 11. The emergency brake cable hanger is installed loosely in step 12. The mounting rail bolts are tightened snug (but not fully torqued) in step 14 to keep the rail from moving. All fasteners are fully torqued to 72 ft-lbs in step 18, in the sequence: first the mounting rails to the frame brackets, then the frame brackets to the truck frame. The emergency brake cable hanger is tightened in step 19.
Place the bushing on a 1/2" drill bit and insert it into the pre-drilled 3/4" hole. Using the bushing as a guide, drill a 1/2" hole through the bottom of the box support. Remove the drill and bushing, then re-drill the 1/2" hole with a 9/16" drill bit.
Rotate the mounting rail up on its edge. Insert the 4" long carriage bolts into the rail and place the front bushings over the bolts. While holding the bushings in position, rotate the rail into place, inserting the bushings and bolts into the pre-drilled holes.
The supplied plastic wire tie is used to secure the electrical harness after installation to prevent it from moving or becoming damaged.
No. The 5th wheel mounting rails are not included with the 50040 kit. They must be purchased separately.
All bolts and nuts supplied are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise. Only the supplied bolts, nuts, and washers should be used for installation.
No. The 50040 is designed for Dodge Ram 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton models (2002–2008 1500 and 2003–2012 2500) but explicitly excludes Megacab models.
Maximum gross trailer weight is 18,000 lb. and maximum tongue weight is 4,500 lb., but you must not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's towing capacity, whichever is lower.
You need: center punch, 1/8", 1/2", 9/16" drill bits, 3/4" step drill, 3/4" wrench and socket, 13mm socket, 100 ft-lbs torque wrench, measuring tape, and (for 6' boxes only) a reciprocating saw.
All 1/2" hardware must be torqued to 72 ft-lbs. Torque the mounting rails to the frame brackets first, then the frame brackets to the truck frame.
Place a metal shield between the box support and fuel tank on the driver's side during drilling to prevent drilling through the fuel tank. Use only 4" carriage bolts in this location.
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