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Complete kit bundle containing all necessary components for your project. Professional-grade components designed for reliable performance and long-lasting durability.
Want to take the family on a cross-country adventure? Or perhaps you're planning a shorter trip to your favorite campground. Whatever your destination, it's important to have the right equipment, especially when towing a fifth wheel trailer. To ensure proper hookup and safety while towing, you'll need something to attach your fifth wheel hitch in the bed on your truck. Many pickups come equipped with factory-installed rails or puck systems, but if you don't have one of these already installed, don't worry. REESE has an extensive line of mounting rails and bracket kits, custom-made to the exact specifications needed based on your truck's year, make, and model. REESE also offers several Industry Standard designs, as well as fastener kits, spacer kits, and a Power Puck mounting kit, so you can be sure you're covered, no matter what pickup you're using to tow. So make it easy. Make it fun. Make it REESE, so you can make the journey as enjoyable as the destination.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 30035 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED 10 YEAR WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 53.5 LBS |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | UNIVERSAL |
| WELDING REQUIRED: | NO |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| RAILS INCLUDED: | YES |
| DRILLING REQUIRED: | YES |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 |
| LOCKABLE: | NO |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
The name you know and the brand you trust brings you the latest in fifth wheel towing: the REESE M5. Whether youre a novice or youve been towing for years, REESE has the hitch you need to connect your truck and trailer safely and securely. Designed with state-of-the-art equipment by top-of-the-line engineers, REESEs complete line of M5 fifth wheel hitches is built to last! Featuring a three-part modular design, with wider stance legs, tighter tolerances, and the industrys best shock absorption system! Plus, an exclusive Talon Jaw that is always ready to receive, gripping the pin to eliminate lateral chucking and reduce sway and noise.
The REESE M5 fifth wheel hitch line combines the latest in technology, rugged endurance, and a sleek design for a quick hook-up and strong performance while on the road, with a clear tow/no tow indicator so you know when your connection is secure, and an ergonomic, easy-reach handle that requires less force to operate. When youre done towing, REESEs fifth wheel hitches are easy to remove, giving you access to the bed of your truck in no time. So tow with the confidence that only REESE can provide and make the journey as enjoyable as the destination.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 30928 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 142.5 LBS |
| CAPACITY: | 20,000 LBS. |
| PIN WEIGHT CAPACITY: | 5,000 LBS. |
| GROSS TOWING WEIGHT: | 20,000 LBS. |
| BASE LENGTH: | 32.26 IN. |
| BASE WIDTH: | 24.68 IN. |
| BASE HEIGHT: | 16.38 IN. |
| VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT: | 14 IN. TO 18 IN. |
| WELDING REQUIRED: | NO |
| LOCKABLE: | YES |
| WIRING HARNESS INCLUDED: | NO |
| JAW TYPE: | SINGLE |
| FORE AND AFT PIVOT: | 15 DEGREE |
| DRILLING REQUIRED: | NO |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | NO |
| MOUNTING HOLE QUANTITY: | 4 |
| HITCH TYPE: | STATIONARY |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| SIDE TO SIDE PIVOT: | 15 DEGREES |
| BOLT GRADE: | METRIC 10.9 |
| COLOR: | BLACK/BLUE |
Want to take the family on a cross-country adventure? Or perhaps you're planning a shorter trip to your favorite campground. Whatever your destination, it's important to have the right equipment, especially when towing a fifth wheel trailer. To ensure proper hookup and safety while towing, you'll need something to attach your fifth wheel hitch in the bed on your truck. Many pickups come equipped with factory-installed rails or puck systems, but if you don't have one of these already installed, don't worry. REESE has an extensive line of mounting rails and bracket kits, custom-made to the exact specifications needed based on your truck's year, make, and model. REESE also offers several Industry Standard designs, as well as fastener kits, spacer kits, and a Power Puck mounting kit, so you can be sure you're covered, no matter what pickup you're using to tow. So make it easy. Make it fun. Make it REESE, so you can make the journey as enjoyable as the destination.
| BRAND: | REESE |
| PART NUMBER: | 50082 |
| WARRANTY: | LIMITED 10 YEAR WARRANTY |
| WEIGHT: | 31.8 LBS |
| UNIVERSAL OR SPECIFIC FIT: | SPECIFIC |
| WELDING REQUIRED: | NO |
| MOUNTING HARDWARE INCLUDED: | YES |
| RAILS INCLUDED: | NO |
| DRILLING REQUIRED: | YES |
| MATERIAL: | STEEL |
| BOLT GRADE: | GRADE 5 |
| LOCKABLE: | NO |
| COLOR: | BLACK |
Keywords: RE300353092821162 bundle kit, complete kit, professional components, industrial kit, RE30035, RE30928, RE50082,
Reese has designed towing equipment since 1952 and remains a benchmark for heavy-duty towing. The line covers fifth wheel hitches such as the modular M5, gooseneck couplers including the Goose Box, air-ride and short-bed pin boxes, weight distribution systems with active sway control, and the accessories that connect them, all built to exceed published industry standards.
Reese has been pioneering towing performance since 1952, when Margaret Reese asked her husband TJ to stop travel trailers rocking every time somebody walked through them. His answer, the first pair of stabilising jacks, was simple and effective enough to change the RV industry. From that starting point Reese grew into a designer and manufacturer of complete towing systems, and today it anchors the heavy-duty end of the Horizon Global towing portfolio.
Fifth wheel towing is where the brand's engineering is most visible. The M5 fifth wheel hitch uses a modular design that breaks into manageable sections for assembly, with a wider stance, tighter tolerances and a shock absorption system aimed at the jolts that travel up through a truck bed. For owners who would rather tow from a gooseneck coupler and keep the bed clear, the Goose Box 20K replaces the trailer's king pin with a gooseneck connection carrying its own air-ride cushioning.
Pin boxes are a Reese speciality. The 5th Airborne uses air-ride technology to dampen road shock and reduce the chucking motion that makes fifth wheel towing tiring, while the Sidewinder was designed for short-bed pickups, pivoting the connection point so the trailer can turn sharply without the front cap meeting the cab.
For conventional towing, Reese weight distribution systems restore load to the tow vehicle's front axle and control sway. The Pro Round Bar distributes weight evenly while damping sway, and the Pro Dual Cam II uses active cam-based sway control that works harder the stronger the sway force becomes. Complete kits pair bars, head and shank to a rated tongue weight, and dedicated sway control kits can be added to existing setups. The products suit RV owners, horse and livestock haulers and anyone towing near the upper end of a vehicle's rating.
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494The 30035 is a fifth wheel hitch base rail mounting kit designed to attach fifth wheel hitches to the truck bed of compatible pickup trucks. It is a 10-bolt rail kit that uses Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and washers to secure mounting brackets to the truck frame and bed. The kit includes two base rails, mounting brackets, spacers, carriage bolts, and hardware. It is manufactured by Reese Products (Horizon Global) and is compatible with a wide range of Chevrolet, GMC, Ford, Dodge/RAM, Toyota, and Nissan pickup trucks from 1973 to current models, though specific applications vary by year, cab style, and bed length.
The 30035 is compatible with many Chevrolet, GMC, Ford, Dodge/RAM, Toyota, and Nissan pickup trucks, but fitment depends on the specific year, model, cab style, and bed length. The manual includes detailed installation diagrams for Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra (1973–2016), Ford F-150/F-250/F-350 (1973–2016), Dodge/RAM 1500/2500/3500 (1973–2012), Toyota Tundra (2000–current), Nissan Titan (2004–2015), and Dodge Dakota (1994–2004). Before purchasing, verify your truck's year, model, cab type, and bed length against the manual's vehicle-specific pages (pages 5–17) or visit www.ReeseProducts.com to confirm compatibility. Some applications require additional kits (see page 18).
No, plastic bed liners must be cut out of the way before installation. The manual states: "Do not install mounting rails over plastic bed liners. Plastic bed liners must be cut out of the way." However, spray-in bed liners are permitted. The manual notes: "Base rails may be installed on spray in liner. Note: Consult installer for recommended curing time." If you have a spray-in liner, confirm with the installer that it has cured sufficiently before installation begins.
The minimum bed length is 6 feet without a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox. The manual states: "DO NOT INSTALL ON OR ATTEMPT TO TOW WITH A TRUCK HAVING LESS THAN A 6' BED WITHOUT A REESE SIDEWINDERTM PINBOX INSTALLED ON THE TRAILER." Short bed trucks (with a minimum of 38" from the back of the cab to the axle centerline) require either a 13" extended pin box or a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox for regular maneuvers. If your truck has a bed shorter than 6 feet, you must use a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox on the trailer.
For long bed trucks, the center of the hitch should be at least 52" from the back of the cab to prevent the trailer from hitting the cab when the trailer is turned 90°. The actual distance required depends on the trailer width and king pin location. Short bed trucks (minimum 38" from back of cab to axle centerline) do not require the 52" measurement if equipped with a 13" extended pin box or Reese Sidewinder Pinbox. Always measure your specific truck and trailer before installation to ensure adequate clearance at both the cab and bumper for turns.
A Reese Sidewinder Pinbox is required for certain short-bed and crew-cab applications. Specifically: trucks with beds shorter than 6 feet require a Sidewinder Pinbox on the trailer; 2004–2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 crew cabs with ~5'8" beds require a Sidewinder Pinbox; 2004–2014 Ford F-150 and 2015+ Ford F-150 with ~5'2" beds require a Sidewinder Pinbox; 2007+ Toyota Tundra CrewMax with ~5.5' bed requires a Sidewinder Pinbox; and several RAM and Nissan models with ~5'2" beds require a Sidewinder Pinbox. Check page 18 of the manual for your specific truck model and bed length, or visit www.ReeseProducts.com for current vehicle listings.
Some vehicles require additional kits to complete installation. Check page 18 of the manual for your specific truck model. For example: 2000–2006 Toyota Tundra requires kit 58197; 2007+ Toyota Tundra requires kit 58309; 2003–2012 Dodge RAM 2500/3500 with overload brackets requires kit 58186; 2004–2015 Nissan Titan requires kit 58405; 2004–2014 Ford F-150 requires kit 58426N; 2015+ Ford F-150 requires kit 58545N; and several RAM models require kits 58386N, 58520N, 58522N, or 58523N. Do not start installation until you have read the instructions included with any additional kits, as they contain important details.
The following tools are required: 1/8" drill bit, 17/32" drill bit, 3/4" socket and open-end wrench, 100 lb-ft torque wrench, and C-clamps. Some Dodge applications also require a 1" drill bit. A jack and jack stands are needed to raise and support the truck. The manual recommends that the truck be raised high enough to allow jack stands to be placed under the rear spring hanger bracket to provide maximum room for installation.
The kit includes: 2 long brackets, 2 short brackets, 10 1/2" spacers, 2 spacers, 10 carriage bolts, 8 knurled bolts, 18 1/2" nuts, 18 1/2" lockwashers, 6 1/2" serrated washers, 4 1/2" flat washers, 2 4-1/2" carriage bolts, 2 tube spacers, 2 base rails, and 1 pull wire. The manual notes: "NOT ALL HARDWARE IS GOING TO BE USED ON ALL INSTALLATIONS." The specific hardware used depends on your vehicle's configuration. All bolts are Grade 5 and nuts are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise.
1. Raise the rear of the truck high enough to allow jack stands to be placed under the rear spring hanger bracket. Ensure the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent it from falling. 2. Remove any plastic bed liners; spray-in liners may remain if cured. 3. Familiarize yourself with all parts by checking them against the parts list (Fig. 1). 4. Locate the vehicle-specific installation diagram for your truck model and year (pages 5–17). 5. Before drilling, check for obstructions such as fuel lines, brake lines, and structural members beneath the truck bed. 6. Gather all required tools: 1/8" and 17/32" drill bits, 3/4" socket and open-end wrench, 100 lb-ft torque wrench, and C-clamps.
1. Center the hitch between the fender wells. 2. Make sure the rails are square by adjusting their position until both diagonal measurements (measured from the same reference point on the truck bed) are the same. This ensures the rails are parallel and will allow proper installation of a gooseneck or other fifth wheel. 3. Refer to the vehicle-specific diagram for your truck model (pages 5–17) to determine the correct distance from the rear edge of the truck bed to the rear edge of the base rail. Distances vary by vehicle; for example, 2011–2016 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 HD with an 8' box requires 29¾", while a 6' box requires 25¼". 4. Once positioned correctly, proceed to drilling.
Yes, drilling is required. The installation involves drilling 10 holes in the truck bed and frame. The process is: 1. Drill all 10 holes with a 1/8" drill bit as pilot holes. 2. Temporarily position the frame brackets to the frame and align them with the pilot holes to ensure the brackets and holes in the bed align without interference with any structure below the truck bed. 3. If holes do not align, restart positioning at step 7. 4. Enlarge the pilot holes with a 17/32" drill bit. 5. Install 1/2" carriage bolts into the enlarged holes. Some Dodge applications may also require a 1" drill bit. Always check for obstructions (fuel lines, brake lines, structural members) before drilling.
Three drill bit sizes are used: 1/8" for pilot holes, 17/32" for enlarging holes in the chassis frame, and 1" for some Dodge applications. The manual emphasizes: "It is important that 17/32" drill be used for holes in chassis frame as rib neck bolts may break if too small a hole is used and neck may not grip if too large a hole is used." Always use the correct size to ensure proper bolt grip and prevent bolt failure.
Bracket modifications are required for specific vehicles. For Dodge Dakota (1994–2004), the manual states: "Cut 1" from top flange of brackets. Under bed, mount brackets with flanges facing out." For other vehicles, no cutting is mentioned. However, the manual notes that on some vehicles, long and short brackets may need to be switched or repositioned to avoid interference with exhaust hangers, fuel lines, brake cable hangers, or overload springs. Refer to your vehicle-specific installation diagram (pages 5–17) for any required bracket modifications.
The primary permanent modification is drilling 10 holes in the truck bed and frame. For Dodge Dakota models, cutting 1" from the top flange of brackets is required. Plastic bed liners must be cut away or removed. On some vehicles, brackets may need to be repositioned or switched to avoid interference with factory components. The manual notes that on 2013 RAM 2500 HD, a tube spacer must be dropped through a hole in the truck bed to avoid crushing the bed sill when torquing the 4-1/2" carriage bolt. These modifications are permanent and cannot be easily reversed.
All nuts must be torqued to 85 lb-ft. However, there is one important exception: for 1973–1987 Chevrolet and GMC models (both with outside and inside shock absorbers), the manual states: "DO NOT Torque to 85lb-ft (tighten but do not crush bed sill)." For these older models, tighten the nuts firmly but do not apply full torque to avoid crushing the bed sill. Use a 100 lb-ft torque wrench for all other applications.
The kit uses 1/2" carriage bolts, 1/2"-13x1-3/8" ribbed neck bolts (rib neck bolts), and 4-1/2" carriage bolts. All bolts are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise. The manual states: "Use only HORIZON GLOBAL supplied bolts, nuts, and washers to install this kit. All bolts are Grade 5 and nuts are Grade 5 unless specified otherwise." Rib neck bolts have threads pointing outward and must be lubricated on the knurls only; do not lubricate the threads, as this may cause bolt failure.
Spacers fill corrugations and gaps in the truck bed floor to ensure proper bolt seating and prevent crushing of the bed. The kit includes 1/2" spacers and 5/16" thick slotted spacers. For most vehicles, a 5/16" thick slotted spacer is installed above or below the bed to fill corrugations. For Toyota 2000–2006 Tundra, part #58197 spacer kit is required; stack one 3/16" and one 5/16" thick slotted spacer to avoid crushing the truck bed. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, a tube spacer is used with the 4-1/2" carriage bolt to attach through the rear bed sill (Row 3) and avoid crushing the bed sill when torquing.
1. Install mounting brackets onto carriage bolts with long brackets on forward bolts and short brackets on rearward bolts. (Long and short brackets can be interchanged as needed for your specific vehicle.) 2. Secure bolts through mounting brackets with serrated washers, lock washers, and hex nuts. 3. Secure the other four bolts through the bed with flat washers, lock washers, and nuts. 4. Drill two holes in the frame for each bracket, selecting the holes that give the greatest spread between bolts. 5. Install eight 1/2"-13x1-3/8" ribbed neck bolts (threads pointing out), lock washers, and hex nuts. Tighten nuts until bolt heads seat. 6. Lubricate the knurls of all rib neck bolts (do not lubricate threads). 7. Torque all nuts to 85 lb-ft. Refer to your vehicle-specific diagram for bracket positioning and row placement.
The pull wire is provided to pull rib neck bolts through the frame as needed per application. On some vehicles, particularly those with tubular frames or complex frame designs, the rib neck bolts cannot be easily inserted from the outside. The pull wire allows the installer to thread the bolts through access holes in the frame. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, the manual notes: "Rib neck bolts will need to be pulled through access holes in frame with supplied pull wire. Wire extensions will need to be added on to the pull wires for the forward rib bolts." If you encounter difficulty inserting bolts, use the pull wire as directed in your vehicle-specific installation diagram.
The bed sill is a critical structural component, and drilling in the wrong location can cause damage. Follow these steps: 1. Find the parallel rows of bed sill spot welds in the truck bed. 2. Do not drill in the ~4" gap between the parallel rows of spot welds where the bed sill sits. 3. Refer to your vehicle-specific diagram (pages 5–17) to identify the correct rows for drilling. 4. After positioning the rails, temporarily install the frame brackets and align them with pilot holes to ensure they do not interfere with the bed sill. 5. If holes do not align without interference, restart positioning. 6. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, ensure brackets in Row 2 are close to the rear side of the bed sill as shown in the diagram to avoid interference when drilling in Row 3. Always check for obstructions before drilling.
The manual states: "Must install center bolt in one of the center holes in each rail. Check to make sure center bolt does not interfere with bed sill." This note appears on all vehicle-specific diagrams. The center bolt refers to one of the bolts that passes through the center holes of each base rail. You must select one of the center holes for bolt installation and verify that it does not interfere with the bed sill structure before drilling.
The manual includes a critical warning: "If the truck is raised, be sure that the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent the truck from falling. Failure to do so may result in the truck suddenly falling, causing death or serious injury." Specifically: 1. Raise the rear of the truck high enough to allow jack stands to be placed under the rear spring hanger bracket. 2. Use jack stands to support the truck; do not rely on a jack alone. 3. Ensure the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent it from falling. 4. Never work under a truck supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands as the primary support.
Before drilling, you must check for obstructions beneath the truck bed. The manual states: "Check for obstructions before drilling. Failure to do so could result in damaged fuel or brake lines, structural members, etc." Specifically, check for: fuel lines, brake lines, and structural members. The manual notes: "HORIZON GLOBAL does its best to communicate tow vehicle manufacturer changes; however, it is ultimately the responsibility of the installer to prevent damage due to installation." If you are unsure about what lies beneath the truck bed, consult the truck's service manual or a professional installer.
Lubricate only the knurls of the rib neck bolts. The manual includes a warning: "DO NOT lubricate threads. It may cause bolt failure." The knurls are the ridged portions of the bolt that grip the frame. Lubricating the threads can weaken the bolt and cause it to fail under load. Apply lubricant to the knurled (ridged) surface only, not to the threaded portion.
After installation, perform the following checks: 1. Verify that all nuts are torqued to 85 lb-ft (or tightened firmly without crushing the bed sill for 1973–1987 Chevrolet/GMC models). 2. Ensure the hitch is centered between the fender wells and that both diagonal measurements are the same. 3. Confirm that the center bolt does not interfere with the bed sill. 4. Check that the hitch center is at least 52" from the back of the cab (for long bed trucks) or meets the minimum distance for short bed trucks. 5. Verify that all brackets are properly seated and secure. 6. Check for any interference with suspension components, exhaust hangers, fuel lines, or brake cable hangers. 7. Measure the truck and trailer to ensure adequate clearance at the cab and bumper for turns. The manual states: "Always measure truck and trailer before installing hitch to be sure that there is clearance at the cab and at the bumper to allow for turns."
The manual does not provide a specific maintenance schedule. However, it is recommended that you periodically inspect the installation to ensure all bolts remain tight and that there is no rust or corrosion on the hardware. If you notice any loose bolts, retorque them to 85 lb-ft. For warranty information, the kit is covered by a 10-year limited warranty against defects in material and workmanship under normal use. For specific maintenance recommendations, contact Reese Products at 1-800-632-3290.
If the frame brackets do not align with the holes in the bed after drilling pilot holes, the manual instructs: "If holes do not align with the brackets and rails, restart installation at step 7." This means you must reposition the base rails until both diagonal measurements are the same, ensuring the rails are square and centered between the fender wells. Then repeat the drilling process with new pilot holes. Do not force misaligned brackets, as this can cause improper installation and potential failure.
If rib neck bolts do not fit or grip properly, the hole size is likely incorrect. The manual emphasizes: "It is important that 17/32" drill be used for holes in chassis frame as rib neck bolts may break if too small a hole is used and neck may not grip if too large a hole is used." If holes are too small, the bolt may break; if too large, the knurled neck will not grip. Verify that you used a 17/32" drill bit to enlarge the pilot holes. If the holes are incorrect, you may need to drill new holes in a different location or consult a professional installer. The pull wire provided can help pull bolts through frame access holes if needed.
If the center bolt interferes with the bed sill, you must reposition the base rails. The manual notes on all vehicle-specific diagrams: "Check to make sure center bolt does not interfere with bed sill." If interference occurs, adjust the position of the rails forward or backward (typically +/- 1/2") and re-drill the pilot holes. Ensure both diagonal measurements remain the same to keep the rails square. Do not force a bolt through the bed sill, as this can cause structural damage.
If brackets interfere with exhaust hangers or fuel lines, the manual provides several solutions depending on your vehicle: 1. Switch the positions of the long and short brackets on the driver's side (noted for Ford 1997–2003 F-150 and some other models). 2. Move the base rail location +/- 1/2" to ensure frame brackets do not interfere with bed sills or other components. 3. For some vehicles, reposition forward brackets to Row 2 to avoid brake cable hangers and overload springs. Refer to your vehicle-specific installation diagram (pages 5–17) for recommended bracket positions. If interference persists, consult a professional installer or contact Reese Products at 1-800-632-3290.
The manual notes: "On vehicles with heavy duty suspensions, check for interference with bolts where brackets are mounted to frame. If interference with suspension spring results, cut bolt flush to nut outboard of frame or use weld option." If bolts interfere with suspension springs, you have two options: 1. Cut the bolt flush to the nut on the outboard side of the frame, or 2. Use the optional weld method instead of bolts. Consult your vehicle-specific diagram for the optional weld pattern, or contact a professional installer if you are unsure how to proceed.
If the truck bed is being crushed when torquing bolts, spacers are not being used correctly. The manual states: "Install 5/16" thick slotted spacer above or below bed to fill corrugations in bed floor." Spacers prevent the bed from being crushed by distributing the clamping force. For Toyota 2000–2006 Tundra, stack one 3/16" and one 5/16" thick slotted spacer to avoid crushing. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, drop a tube spacer through a hole in the truck bed before torquing the 4-1/2" carriage bolt. If crushing has already occurred, stop torquing immediately and verify that spacers are properly installed before continuing. For 1973–1987 Chevrolet/GMC models, do not torque to 85 lb-ft; tighten only until the bolt head seats to avoid crushing the bed sill.
A Reese Sidewinder Pinbox is required for trucks with beds shorter than 6 feet and for certain crew-cab models with ~5'2" beds. Check page 18 of the manual for your specific truck model and bed length, or visit www.ReeseProducts.com.
Required tools: 1/8" and 17/32" drill bits, 3/4" socket and open-end wrench, 100 lb-ft torque wrench, C-clamps, jack, and jack stands. Some Dodge applications also require a 1" drill bit.
Torque all nuts to 85 lb-ft. Exception: for 1973–1987 Chevrolet and GMC models, tighten firmly but do not crush the bed sill (do not apply full 85 lb-ft torque).
Use jack stands to support the truck; never work under a truck supported only by a jack. Ensure the truck is properly blocked and restrained to prevent falling. Check for fuel lines, brake lines, and structural members before drilling. Do not lubricate threads of rib neck bolts; lubricate knurls only.
The minimum bed length is 6 feet without a Reese Sidewinder Pinbox. Short bed trucks require a 13" extended pin box or Reese Sidewinder Pinbox.
Restart installation at step 7 (positioning the rails). Reposition the base rails until both diagonal measurements are the same, ensuring the rails are square and centered between the fender wells. Then repeat the drilling process with new pilot holes. Do not force misaligned brackets, as this can cause improper installation and potential failure.
Verify that you used a 17/32" drill bit to enlarge the pilot holes. The manual states: "It is important that 17/32" drill be used for holes in chassis frame as rib neck bolts may break if too small a hole is used and neck may not grip if too large a hole is used." If holes are too small, the bolt may break; if too large, the knurled neck will not grip. If holes are incorrect, drill new holes in a different location or consult a professional installer. The pull wire provided can help pull bolts through frame access holes if needed.
Reposition the base rails forward or backward (typically +/- 1/2") and re-drill the pilot holes. Ensure both diagonal measurements remain the same to keep the rails square. Do not force a bolt through the bed sill, as this can cause structural damage.
Refer to your vehicle-specific installation diagram (pages 5–17) for recommended bracket positions. Solutions may include: 1. Switching the positions of long and short brackets on the driver's side, 2. Moving the base rail location +/- 1/2", or 3. Repositioning forward brackets to Row 2. If interference persists, consult a professional installer or contact Reese Products at 1-800-632-3290.
If bolts interfere with suspension springs, you have two options: 1. Cut the bolt flush to the nut on the outboard side of the frame, or 2. Use the optional weld method instead of bolts (shown on the vehicle-specific diagram). Consult your vehicle-specific diagram for the optional weld pattern, or contact a professional installer if you are unsure how to proceed.
Stop torquing immediately. Spacers are not being used correctly. Verify that a 5/16" thick slotted spacer is installed above or below the bed to fill corrugations. For Toyota 2000–2006 Tundra, ensure one 3/16" and one 5/16" thick slotted spacer are stacked. For 2013 RAM 2500 HD, ensure a tube spacer is dropped through a hole in the truck bed before torquing the 4-1/2" carriage bolt. For 1973–1987 Chevrolet/GMC models, do not torque to 85 lb-ft; tighten only until the bolt head seats to avoid crushing the bed sill.
The M5 ISR 20K LEGS (part number 30926) are support legs for a 5th wheel hitch system rated for 20,000 lbs towing capacity with a maximum pin weight of 5,000 lbs. The legs attach to the M5 Center Section and provide vertical support for the hitch assembly when mounted on a truck. They must be used together with the M5 Head (part 30892) and M5 Center Section (part 30884).
The M5 ISR 20K LEGS are designed for installation on trucks with existing above-bed rails. The legs attach to the M5 Center Section, which then mounts to these rails using provided pins and spring clips. The manual does not specify which truck models or years are compatible. Contact the manufacturer at 1-800-632-3290 or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
No. The M5 ISR 20K LEGS are designed specifically for installation with the M5 Head (part 30892) and M5 Center Section (part 30884). The legs attach to the center section structure and cannot function as a standalone product.
You will need an M24 wrench and a torque wrench. The M24 wrench is used to tighten the handle assembly on the head unit. The torque wrench is required to tighten the M16 hex-head bolts to the specified 220 ft-lb torque value.
The M5 ISR 20K LEGS (part 30926) include: 2 M5 ISR Legs, 4 M16 x 2 x 40mm CL10.9 hex-head bolts, 4 5/8-inch conical washers, 4 half-inch pins, and 4 spring clips. The legs also have 4 holes for anti-rattle accessories, which are sold separately.
Yes. The M5 ISR 20K LEGS come ready to install. No pre-assembly or preparation of the legs themselves is required before attachment to the center section.
A minimum of 6 inches of clearance is required between the truck bed rail and the bottom of the trailer. The legs must be attached at the same height on both sides of the unit. The M5 ISR 20K LEGS provide 4 inches of vertical adjustment to help achieve this clearance. For detailed guidance on matching the hitch, truck, and trailer, refer to the guidelines in the M5 Head and Center Section instruction sheet.
Using the 4 M16 x 2 x 40mm hex-head bolts, attach the legs to the center section structure by threading the bolts from the inside of the center section into the threaded portion of the legs. Finger-tighten the bolts initially until final adjustments are made. Make sure the collars on each leg are completely seated in the corresponding holes in the center section before final tightening.
Once the legs are attached to the center section and the unit is placed in the existing above-bed rails, use the provided half-inch pins to secure the assembly to the rails. Insert the pins through the alignment holes and secure each pin with a spring clip to prevent the pin from coming out. The spring clip must be used on all pins.
Each M16 hex-head bolt that connects the legs to the center section must be tightened to 220 ft-lb of torque. The bolts should be finger-tightened initially until final adjustments are made, then torqued to the final specification once the legs are pinned and securely held in the above-bed rails.
After tightening each M16 hex-head bolt to 220 ft-lb of torque, verify that the hitch is tight to the truck by lifting each side of the hitch. You must also verify that other components of your towing system do not reduce the overall tow rating of the hitch. Once these checks are complete, assemble the head to the center section per the instructions included with the M5 Center Section and Head.
The hitch system is rated for 20,000 lbs towing capacity with a maximum pin weight of 5,000 lbs. However, you must not exceed the towing vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity or the lowest rated component of your system, whichever is lower.
Before any trip, verify that the pins and spring clips are undamaged and secure. Every 1,000 miles, check the M16 hex bolts that connect the center section to the legs to ensure they are still torqued to 220 ft-lb. For general maintenance of the entire 5th wheel hitch assembly, refer to the M5 Head and Center Section instruction sheet.
After tightening the M16 hex-head bolts to 220 ft-lb of torque, lift each side of the hitch to verify it is tight to the truck. The pins and spring clips must be secure and undamaged. Verify that other components of your towing system do not reduce the overall tow rating of the hitch.
The M5 ISR 20K LEGS provide 4 inches of vertical adjustment. This allows you to position the hitch at the correct height to maintain a minimum of 6 inches of clearance between the truck bed rail and the bottom of the trailer.
The M5 ISR 20K LEGS are designed for trucks with existing above-bed rails. The manual does not specify compatible vehicle models. Contact the manufacturer at 1-800-632-3290 or consult a fitment database for your specific truck.
You need an M24 wrench and a torque wrench. The torque wrench must be capable of measuring 220 ft-lb.
No drilling is required. The legs attach to the center section using existing threaded holes and are secured to the truck's above-bed rails using provided pins.
Tighten each M16 hex-head bolt to 220 ft-lb of torque. Check this torque every 1,000 miles during maintenance.
The hitch is rated for 20,000 lbs towing capacity with a maximum pin weight of 5,000 lbs. Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Check the M16 hex bolts every 1,000 miles to ensure they remain torqued to 220 ft-lb. Before any trip, verify that the pins and spring clips are undamaged and secure.
A minimum of 6 inches of clearance is required between the truck bed rail and the bottom of the trailer. The legs provide 4 inches of vertical adjustment to achieve this.
Yes. Part number 50082 is designed for 1999 to 2010 Ford Super Duty F-250/F-350 and 2008 to 2010 F-450 trucks. Your 2006 F-250 is within the supported range.
No. The 50082 is designed for 1999 to 2010 Ford Super Duty F-250/F-350 and 2008 to 2010 F-450 only. A 2011 model is outside the supported range and may not fit correctly.
Yes. The 50082 is compatible with 2008 to 2010 F-450 trucks, which includes your 2009 model.
You will need: wrenches in 3/4", 7/8", 15/16", and 15 mm sizes; drill bits in 1/8" and 9/16" (for 10-bolt system) or 11/16" (for 4-bolt system); a center punch; and a measuring tape. The fastener kit 50082F is also required.
Yes. The instructions refer to using a "step drill" to enlarge the initial 1/8" holes to either 9/16" (10-bolt system) or 11/16" (4-bolt system). A step drill is the recommended tool for this enlargement.
Not necessarily. The manual states to "lower and remove spare tire if extra room is needed for the installation." This is optional and depends on whether you have sufficient working space without removing it.
No. The manual explicitly states: "Do not install mounting rails over plastic bed liners. Plastic bed liners must be cut out of the way to provide metal to metal contact." However, spray-in liners are acceptable and do not need to be removed.
The vapor tube runs along the inside of the driver's side frame rail. On 2005 to 2010 gas engine vehicles only, this tube must be relocated before installing the driver's side bracket. You will remove the flange nut from the outside of the frame, rotate the tubes up and out of the way, and install an L-bracket (part 7) with 1/4" hardware to hold them in place. The flange nut is reused to secure the tube holder after installation.
Yes. On 1999 to 2004 vehicles only, you must remove the upper emergency brake cable hanger from the frame and keep the hardware for reuse. This hardware is then used to attach the upper brake cable to the frame bracket during installation.
Yes. Drilling is required. You must drill initial 1/8" holes through the truck bed floor at marked positions, then enlarge them to 9/16" (10-bolt system) or 11/16" (4-bolt system). The manual warns that when drilling, you must be aware of potential risks to brake lines and fuel tanks and take appropriate safeguards to protect them from damage.
For the 10-bolt system, you first drill 1/8" holes, then enlarge them to 9/16" using a step drill.
For the 4-bolt system, you first drill 1/8" holes, then enlarge them to 11/16" using a step drill.
All 1/2" Grade 5 hardware must be torqued to 72 ft-lbs (98 N-m). This applies to both the 10-bolt and 4-bolt systems.
All 5/8" Grade 5 hardware must be torqued to 150 ft-lbs (204 N-m). This applies to both the 10-bolt and 4-bolt systems.
All 5/8" Grade 8 hardware must be torqued to 212 ft-lbs (287 N-m). This applies to both the 10-bolt and 4-bolt systems.
Tighten fasteners in this sequence: 1) torque the mounting rails to the frame brackets, 2) torque the frame brackets to the truck frame. Then apply the specified torque values: 1/2" Grade 5 to 72 ft-lbs (98 N-m), 5/8" Grade 5 to 150 ft-lbs (204 N-m), and 5/8" Grade 8 to 212 ft-lbs (287 N-m).
Place the mounting rail in the truck bed and use a measuring tape to center it between the weld seams on the length of the truck box floor. Position it at the proper distance from the rear edge of the truck box as illustrated in the installation figures (Figure 5 for 10-bolt, Figure 7 for 4-bolt). The manual specifies approximate distances: for an 8-foot bed, approximately 52-5/16" from the front of the box; for a 6-foot 6-inch bed, approximately 36-1/8" from the front of the box.
No. The manual requires you to hand-tighten or finger-tighten fasteners during initial installation, then tighten them in a specific sequence at the end. Frame brackets are attached with hand-tightened u-bolts and finger-tightened carriage bolts. Mounting rail fasteners are snugged to keep the rail from moving. Final torque is applied only after both rails are positioned and aligned.
The 10-bolt system uses rail kit 58058 or 30035 and requires drilling 9/16" holes. The 4-bolt system uses rail kit 30124 or 30095 and requires drilling 11/16" holes. The 10-bolt system uses 1/2" x 2" carriage bolts with U-shaped spacers at the ends and a conical washer in the middle. The 4-bolt system uses 5/8" carriage bolts with 1-1/4" tube spacers and 5/16" spacers positioned based on corrugation location. Both systems use the same frame bracket attachment method but differ in rail-to-bed attachment.
For 2008 and later trucks, use the slot in the frame that is over the axle to attach the frame bracket with a 5/8" carriage bolt (part 9). Use a 5/8" spacer (part 10) between the bracket and frame on the outside. On the inside of the frame, attach the 5/8" bolt with a 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 3" spacer (part 11), lock washer (part 12), and hex nut (part 13). Finger-tighten only during initial installation.
For 1999–2007 trucks, use the slot in the frame that is under the rear bed support to attach the frame bracket with a 5/8" carriage bolt (part 9). Do not use a 5/8" spacer between the bracket and frame. On the inside of the frame, attach the 5/8" bolt with a 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 3" spacer (part 11), lock washer (part 12), and hex nut (part 13). Finger-tighten only during initial installation.
The U-shaped spacer (part 1) is installed in the corrugation between the truck bed and the mounting rails before inserting the 1/2" carriage bolts. It ensures metal-to-metal contact between the rail and bed. U-shaped spacers are used at the ends of the rails but are not needed for the attachment at the center of the rail.
The 4-bolt system uses two types of spacers: a 5/16" spacer (part 3) placed between the bed and rail if the drilled hole is in the bottom of the corrugation, or between the bottom of the bed and the bracket below the bed if the hole is on top of the corrugation; and 1-1/4" tube spacers (part 2) placed under the rails. These ensure proper alignment and metal-to-metal contact.
Place the unassembled fifth wheel saddles/slider/goose into the already installed first mounting rail. Position the second mounting rail with the saddles/slider/goose by inserting the tabs into the mounting rail and pushing the mounting rail tight towards the other mounting rail. Ensure the second rail is centered between the weld seams on the length of the truck box floor. If more than one hitch product will be used with the rails, use both at the same time to align the second rail and ensure one product does not compromise the fit of the other.
Yes. The manual states: "Always measure truck and trailer before installing hitch to be sure that there is clearance at the cab and at the bumper to allow for turns." This is a critical safety step to verify the installation does not interfere with vehicle operation.
The 50082 kit includes: 8 spacers 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 2"; 4 hex nuts 1/2"-13; 4 conical washers 1/2"; 2 flat washers 1/4"; 1 nylok nut 1/4"-20; 6 hex head bolts 1/4"-20 x 1-1/4" Grade 2; 1 L-bracket; 2 U-bolts 1/2"-13 x 7-3/8" x 4"; 2 carriage bolts 5/8"-11 x 2-1/2" Grade 8; 2 blocks 5/8" x 1-1/2" x 2-1/8"; 2 spacers 1/4" x 1-1/2" x 3"; 2 lock washers 5/8" plated; and 2 hex nuts 5/8"-11 Grade 8. Additional fasteners are supplied with rail kits 30035, 58058, 30124, or 30095.
The fastener kit part number is 50082F. This kit contains all the bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, and brackets needed for installation.
If fasteners with the rail kit are missing, order service kit 58430. The manual notes that fasteners listed in the kit chart are supplied with the 50082, while all other unidentified fasteners are supplied with part numbers 30035, 58058, 30095, or 30124 (the rail kits).
No. The manual explicitly states: "Use only bolts, nuts, and washers supplied to install this kit." All bolts are Grade 5 and nuts are Grade 5 unless otherwise specified. Using non-supplied fasteners may compromise the integrity and safety of the installation.
The manual does not specify a towing capacity for the kit itself. However, it includes this warning: "Under no circumstances do we recommend exceeding the towing vehicle manufacturers recommended vehicle towing capacity." You must consult your Ford Super Duty owner's manual for the vehicle's maximum towing capacity and never exceed it.
When drilling holes, be aware of potential risks to vehicle components such as brake lines and fuel tanks, and take appropriate safeguards to protect them from damage. The manual emphasizes this warning twice during the drilling steps to ensure you do not accidentally damage critical vehicle systems.
The 50082 fits 1999–2010 Ford Super Duty F-250/F-350 and 2008–2010 F-450 only. Check your truck's year and model against this range.
You need wrenches (3/4", 7/8", 15/16", 15 mm), drill bits (1/8", 9/16" for 10-bolt or 11/16" for 4-bolt), a center punch, measuring tape, and fastener kit 50082F.
Yes. You must drill 1/8" holes through the truck bed, then enlarge them to 9/16" (10-bolt) or 11/16" (4-bolt). When drilling, protect brake lines and fuel tanks from damage.
No. Plastic bed liners must be cut away to provide metal-to-metal contact. Spray-in liners are acceptable.
Torque 1/2" Grade 5 fasteners to 72 ft-lbs (98 N-m), 5/8" Grade 5 to 150 ft-lbs (204 N-m), and 5/8" Grade 8 to 212 ft-lbs (287 N-m). Tighten rails to brackets first, then brackets to frame.
On 2005–2010 gas engines, relocate the vapor tube and use an L-bracket. On 1999–2004 models, remove the emergency brake cable hanger. Both are required modifications.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Always measure truck and trailer clearance at the cab and bumper before use to ensure safe turning.
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