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2015 - 2018 Ford Edge
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2015 - 2018 Ford Edge. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX and Lincoln Nautilus (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 4,500 lbs. GTW and 675 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 4,500 lbs. WD and 675 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2018 | Ford Edge | — |
Yes, CURT part number 13452 is designed for 2015-2020 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and Lincoln Nautilus models. The hitch is a weight-carrying receiver hitch with a maximum trailer weight capacity of 4500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch, or 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight distribution hitch. Always verify your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity before towing, as you must never exceed it.
The hitch weight is 45 lbs.
CURT 13452 has a maximum trailer weight capacity of 4500 lbs and tongue weight capacity of 675 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. When used as a weight distribution hitch, the capacity is also 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch capacity.
Required tools are: safety glasses, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, 5mm socket, 10mm socket, 7/16-inch socket, T20 Torx bit socket, screwdriver, die grinder, and torque wrench. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
No, drilling is not required. The installation uses existing frame holes and does not require any new holes to be drilled.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
Professional installation time is approximately 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is approximately 37 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on experience and familiarity with the vehicle.
The kit includes: 8 carriage bolts (7/16-14 UNC, 1-3/4 inch, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 10-10314); 6 serrated flange nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 20-00103); 2 hex nuts (7/16-14 UNC, Grade 8, yellow zinc, part 20-00147); 2 lock washers (7/16 inch, yellow zinc, part 30-00184); 8 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50 inch, part CM-SP11); and 8 pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire (part 7_16 FISHWIRE).
Installation follows this sequence: (1) Remove bottom side plastic panel by removing 2 bolts on fascia and 2 flange nuts under the car by the muffler on each side; (2) For models with heat shield, remove center plastic panel with heat shields by removing 6 bolts and 1 flange nut; (3) For Lincoln models, remove bumper fascia by removing 7 push fasteners in wheel well and 1 bolt on each side; (4) For Lincoln models, disconnect electrical connectors from fascia; (5) For Ford models, lower muffler by removing exhaust hanger rod from rubber isolator on both sides and support with stand; (6) Use die grinder to cut off stud above center of muffler; (7) Feed carriage bolts and spacers through 4 large frame holes using fishwire; (8) Feed fishwires through 4 holes in hitch; (9) Raise hitch into position by sliding over passenger side exhaust; (10) Pull fishwires for 2 side plate bolts to hold hitch in place; (11) Pull fishwires for 2 bottom plate bolts; (12) Remove fishwires and loosely install 3 flanged hex nuts and 1 lock washer and hex nut on each side; (13) Torque all 7/16-inch fasteners to 59 lb-ft; (14) Reinstall all panels, fascia, wheel wells, muffler, and reconnect electrical connectors.
The manual instructs to use a die grinder to cut off the stud above the center of the muffler in Step 6, but does not specify whether this is a permanent modification or temporary removal. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 for clarification on whether the stud can be reinstalled or if this is a permanent alteration.
All 7/16-inch fasteners must be torqued to 59 lb-ft. This is applied in Step 13 after all bolts and nuts are loosely installed. Lock washers and hex nuts should be placed on the bolt closest to the gusset on the hitch.
Fishwire is used to feed carriage bolts and spacers through the 4 large holes in the frame (Step 7) and then through the 4 holes in the hitch (Step 8). The fishwires are then pulled to guide the bolts into position for the side plate bolts (Step 10) and bottom plate bolts (Step 11) before being removed and replaced with nuts and washers (Step 12). Eight pieces of 7/16-inch fishwire are included in the kit.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. However, for Lincoln models, Step 4 requires disconnecting electrical connectors attached to the fascia and vehicle. Contact CURT Technical Support at 877-287-8634 if you have concerns about electrical safety during installation.
For Ford models, the exhaust hanger rod must be removed from the rubber isolator on both sides to lower the muffler. This is necessary to provide clearance for raising the hitch into position. The muffler must be supported with a stand to prevent damage. The muffler is then reinstalled in Step 14.
Bumper fascia removal is recommended for easier installation on Lincoln models. The removal process involves removing 7 push fasteners in the wheel well and 1 bolt on each side, then gently pulling the wheel well trim. The fascia is then disconnected from electrical connectors in the trunk. All components are reinstalled in Step 14.
The hitch is raised into position by sliding it over the passenger side exhaust first (Step 9). The fishwires for the 2 side plate bolts on each side are then pulled to hold the hitch in place (Step 10), followed by pulling the fishwires for the 2 bottom plate bolts on each side (Step 11).
On each side of the hitch, 3 flanged hex nuts (part 20-00103) and 1 lock washer (part 30-00184) and 1 hex nut (part 20-00147) are installed. The lock washer and hex nut should be placed on the bolt closest to the gusset on the hitch. All fasteners are torqued to 59 lb-ft.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify a retorque interval, but recommends regular inspection as part of vehicle maintenance.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. When lowering the muffler on Ford models, a stand must be used to support and prevent damage. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
CURT 13452 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, CURT 13452 is designed for 2015-2020 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX, and Lincoln Nautilus. Maximum capacity is 4500 lbs trailer weight and 675 lbs tongue weight, but never exceed your vehicle's manufacturer towing capacity.
You need: safety glasses, ratchet, 6-inch socket extension, 5mm/10mm/7/16-inch sockets, T20 Torx bit socket, screwdriver, die grinder, and torque wrench. No drilling is required.
Professional installation takes approximately 90 minutes; DIY installation approximately 37 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
All 7/16-inch fasteners must be torqued to 59 lb-ft after loose installation is complete.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound. No specific retorque interval is stated in the manual.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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