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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2015 - 2020 Ford F-150 Excluding factory receiver or Police Responder. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Ford F-150 (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 6,000 lbs. GTW and 900 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 10,000 lbs. WD and 1,000 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Ford Edge (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2015 - 2020 | Ford F-150 | Excluding factory receiver or Police Responder |
The CURT 13475 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 6,000 lbs. and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 900 lbs. If using weight distribution, the weight distribution (WD) capacity is 10,000 lbs. with a WD tongue weight (WDTW) of 1,000 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. The installation requires the spare tire to be lowered before beginning. After installation is complete, the spare tire is raised back into position in Step 6.
You will need: a ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket, 15/16" socket, 13mm socket, and masking tape. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 2 U-shaped spacers (3/16" x 1" x 2"), 6 square-hole spacers (3/8" x 1-1/4" x 2-1/2"), 4 carriage bolts (5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8), 4 serrated-flange nuts (5/8"-11, grade 8), 4 fishwires (5/8"), and 1 flange bolt (M8-1.25 x 25mm, CL10.9).
If a grounding cable is present on the rear of the passenger side frame rail, it must be temporarily removed using a 10mm socket in Step 1. The fastener should be returned to the vehicle owner. After the hitch is installed, the grounding cable is reinstalled using the provided M8 flange bolt in Step 5.
If present, a harness plug is located on the driver side frame rail and must be pulled out in Step 2 before installation. After the hitch is installed, the harness plug is pushed back into the 1" hole on the hitch plate on the driver side in Step 5.
Fishwire is a tool used to guide hardware through the vehicle frame rails. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole in the frame rail and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through a spacer and thread a bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. This prevents loss of bolts or spacers inside the frame rail.
In Step 4, two 5/8" carriage bolts are fishwired through either an access hole or the end of the frame on each side (for a total of 4 carriage bolts). The hardware is left in the frame with the fishwires attached until Step 5, when the hitch is raised into position and the fishwires are pulled to position the bolts.
In Step 3, U-shaped spacers are taped into the recess in the frame at the rearward most holes on both sides of the vehicle.
All 5/8" fasteners must be torqued to 180 lb-ft in Step 6 after the hitch is raised into position and the serrated flange nuts are loosely installed.
The grounding cable is reinstalled using the provided M8 flange bolt (M8-1.25 x 25mm, CL10.9) in Step 5 after the hitch is installed.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Yes, the spare tire must be lowered before installation and raised back into position after the hitch is installed.
A torque wrench is essential, along with a ratchet, 10mm socket, 15/16" socket, 13mm socket, and masking tape.
All 5/8" fasteners must be torqued to 180 lb-ft.
The tongue weight capacity is 900 lbs. (or 1,000 lbs. if using weight distribution).
Yes, safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product.
No, the installation difficulty level is rated as Easy, though this may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and proper tools and equipment.
The CURT 56436 is a powered converter harness designed for SUVs and vans. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals into a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to tow a trailer with integrated lights. The converter box processes the vehicle's turn signal, brake, and taillight circuits and outputs them to a standard 4-flat connector mounted near the hitch.
The CURT 56436 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models or years. Contact CURT or consult your vehicle's owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system before purchasing.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. Using it on any other electrical system will not function properly and may cause damage.
You will need: ratchet, cutting tool, socket extension, wire crimper, Torx bit T-25, wire stripper, small flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, and flathead screwdriver. A fish wire (which can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) is also required to route wires through blind holes.
The manual confirms the following items are provided: double-sided tape for mounting the converter box, a screw and ring terminal for the white ground wire, zip ties for securing loose wires, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 15-amp fuse. The manual does not specify whether the 4-flat connector itself or the converter box are included or must be purchased separately.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep this wire fastened down and away from the battery during the entire installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other installation steps are complete and you have tested the harness for proper function.
The installation difficulty is rated as Moderate. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Remove the taillight housing by using a pry tool to loosen it carefully (being careful not to dent or scratch the vehicle) and pull it rearward. Behind the taillight, locate the vehicle taillight wiring harness connectors. Disconnect the housing by releasing the locking tabs. The T-connector with the yellow wire is then routed down through the bumper area using a fish wire and pulled back up to connect to the factory wiring at the taillight pocket.
Fish wire is a flexible tool used to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. It can be made from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side before inserting it.
Mount the black converter box on a flat, clean surface that is out of the path of spray and debris from the rear wheels and road. Use the provided double-sided tape to adhere it. Failure to mount the box in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter box, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
Route the black 12-gauge power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter box, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Do not connect the power wire to the battery until all other steps are complete and you are ready to test the harness.
Route the green wire to the passenger side, up and out of the way. Repeat the same process used for the driver-side taillight (Step 6) to route the green wire to the passenger-side taillight housing, using a fish wire to pull it through the bumper area.
Route the trailer 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and mount it near the hitch.
Drilling may be required. You must drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw only if no suitable existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame near the converter box. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The signal circuits (turn signals) are rated at 5.0 amps per side.
The tail and running light circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed this rating. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the black power wire routed from the vehicle battery to the converter box.
The wire colors are: Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn signal, Brown = Taillight, White = Ground. These wires connect to the corresponding circuits in the vehicle's taillight harness.
The T-connector end with the yellow wire is routed down through the bumper area using a fish wire and pulled back up to the taillight pocket. Install the connector onto the factory wiring to keep it from falling down. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse.
Route the black power wire to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not reinstall all items removed during installation or reconnect the negative battery terminal until you have confirmed proper function.
After confirming proper function with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer, reinstall all items removed during harness installation, reconnect the negative battery terminal, and install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent corrosion or electrical issues.
The provided 4-flat dust cover should be installed to help prevent corrosion of the 4-flat connector.
The CURT 56436 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual or contact CURT to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and keep it fastened away from the battery. Reconnect only after testing the harness for proper function.
Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Yellow = Left turn, Brown = Taillight, White = Ground.
Mount the converter box on a flat, clean surface away from spray and debris from rear wheels and road, using the provided double-sided tape. Failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating and potential fire.
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