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2021 - 2026 Hyundai Elantra Sedan Hybrid
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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2021 - 2026 Hyundai Elantra Sedan, Hybrid. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Hyundai Elantra (excluding N and N Line; to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Limited lifetime warranty (one-year finish, one-year parts)
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2026 | Hyundai Elantra Sedan Hybrid | — |
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
The CURT 11687 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools include: ratchet, torque wrench, sockets (8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, 11/16"), utility knife, masking tape, fishwire (7/16", 2 qty. included), center punch, aviation shears, exhaust isolator removal tool, Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, tape measure, paint marker, drill, drill bit (1/2"), and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The CURT 11687 is rated as moderate difficulty. Installation requires lowering the exhaust, removing body panels, taillights and bumper cover, trimming panels, and drilling. Proper tools and mechanical experience are necessary. Difficulty may vary based on installer expertise and vehicle condition.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with part number 11687. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle before purchasing.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 2 pieces of 7/16" fishwire, 2 flange nuts (7/16"-14), 4 round-hole spacers (1/4" x 1" x 1-1/2"), 4 hex bolts (M10–1.25 x 35mm, Class 10.9), 4 conical-toothed washers (7/16"), 2 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 x 1-3/4", grade 8), 4 conical-toothed washers (3/8"), 4 hex bolts (M8–1.25 x 40mm, Class 10.9), and 2 spacers (1/4" x 7/8" x 2-1/4").
Installation requires removal of: driver-side underbody panel (5 push pins and 1 plastic nut), passenger-side underbody panel (4 push pins, 1 plastic nut, and 2 additional nuts), both taillights with wiring harnesses, bumper cover (multiple fasteners and clips), and lowering of the exhaust system onto jack stands. All components are reinstalled after hitch mounting.
The manual does not specify whether battery disconnection is required. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for guidance on electrical safety precautions before beginning installation.
Yes. A 1/2" diameter hole must be drilled in the driver-side frame rail at the forward mounting location of the hitch side mounting strap. The hitch is raised into position, the hole location is marked, then the hitch is lowered and the hole is drilled.
The bumper cover requires a 5" x 3-3/4" rectangular cutout from the bottom edge. The central underbody panel requires a 5" x 1" rectangular cutout from the rear edge. Both are trimmed with aviation shears or suitable tool. Additional trimming of the driver-side underbody panel may be needed near the forwardmost attachment tab for proper fit.
Yes. The manual requires trimming a 5" x 3-3/4" section from the bottom of the bumper cover and a 5" x 1" section from the central underbody panel using aviation shears. These are permanent modifications to fit the hitch. The trimmed bumper cover is reinstalled after hitch mounting.
For the bumper cover: find the center of the bottom edge, mark points 2-1/2" to either side of center (5" total span), then draw a rectangle from the 5" base up 3-3/4" from the lower edge. For the underbody panel: mark the center, mark points 2-1/2" to either side (5" total span), then mark a rectangle 1" from the rear edge toward the front. Use a paint marker for visibility.
Fishwire is used to guide carriage bolts and spacers through internal frame rail passages where direct access is not possible. The coiled end of the fishwire is inserted through the mounting hole, passed through the spacer, and threaded into the bolt coil. The fishwire then pulls the bolt and spacer through the frame and out the mounting hole, preventing loss of hardware inside the frame rail.
The manual provides two methods. Method 1: Use exhaust hanger removal pliers if available. Method 2: Use a 5/8" open-end wrench slid up to the rubber isolator to cradle the hanger rod, place a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
Driver side first: remove 5 push pins with a flathead screwdriver, then remove 1 plastic nut with a 15mm socket. Passenger side: remove 4 push pins, then remove 1 plastic nut with a 15mm socket and 2 additional nuts with a 12mm socket. Set all fasteners aside for reinstallation.
Open the trunk and remove the taillight access panel on the driver side. Using a 10mm socket, remove 2 nuts inside the panel opening. Unclip the taillight wiring harness carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Slide the taillight rearward out of the vehicle. Repeat on the passenger side. In the rear wheel well, remove 3 screws (Phillips) and 1 bolt (8mm socket), plus 1 screw and 1 push pin in the taillight area.
Remove 2 bumper bolts from each side (4 total) using either an 8mm socket (Korean-made models) or 10mm socket (US-made models) on the forward part of the rear flange. Remove 3 push pins from the lower edge near the wheel well (2 passenger side, 1 driver side). Gently pull the bumper cover away starting at the top edge by the wheel well, working around the top edge. A panel trim removal tool may ease removal of clips.
The conical-toothed washers must be oriented with the teeth pointing toward the hitch side plate and the flat side facing outward. The diagram on page 2 shows the correct orientation: teeth engage the hitch side plate to prevent loosening.
Raise the hitch into position and mark the forward mounting hole on the driver-side mounting strap. Lower the hitch and drill the 1/2" hole. Then raise the hitch again into position, thread the fishwire through the side mounting straps, and secure with the appropriate bolts and washers depending on vehicle origin (M10 or M8 bolts with corresponding washers).
The choice depends on vehicle origin. US-made vehicles use M10 bolts (M10–1.25 x 35mm, Class 10.9) with 7/16" conical-toothed washers. Korean-made vehicles use M8 bolts (M8–1.25 x 40mm, Class 10.9) with 3/8" conical-toothed washers. The manual does not specify how to determine vehicle origin; contact CURT at 877.287.8634 if uncertain.
Torque all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb-ft, all 8mm fasteners to 23 ft-lb, and all 10mm fasteners to 48 lb-ft. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
All 7/16" fasteners, including the flange nuts and carriage bolts, must be torqued to 70 lb-ft.
All 8mm fasteners must be torqued to 23 ft-lb.
All 10mm fasteners must be torqued to 48 lb-ft.
The kit includes 2 carriage bolts, 7/16"-14 x 1-3/4", grade 8. These are secured with 7/16" flange nuts and must be torqued to 70 lb-ft.
The kit includes two types of hex bolts: 4 pieces of M10–1.25 x 35mm, Class 10.9 (torque to 48 lb-ft) and 4 pieces of M8–1.25 x 40mm, Class 10.9 (torque to 23 ft-lb). Which type is used depends on vehicle origin (US-made or Korean-made).
A 1/2" diameter hole must be drilled in the driver-side frame rail at the forward mounting location of the hitch side mounting strap.
Before final torquing, temporarily reinstall the bumper cover and check the fit of the cut-out areas. Raise the hitch into position and verify clearance around the hitch, enlarging cut-outs as needed. Check for proper fit around the driver-side underbody panel and trim near the forwardmost attachment tab if needed. After installation, perform periodic inspection to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The manual states that periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Specific intervals are not provided; contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for recommended inspection schedules.
The manual does not specify a retorque interval. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com for maintenance and retorque recommendations.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The exhaust must be supported on jack stands or other suitable supports while lowered to prevent damage to the vehicle. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The CURT 11687 is rated for a gross trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight of 200 lbs, but your vehicle's capacity may be lower. Consult your vehicle's owner manual for the maximum towing capacity.
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