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2024 - 2026 Chrysler Grand Caravan
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2024 - 2026 Chrysler Grand Caravan. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Chrysler Pacifica and Chrysler Voyager (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 4,000 lbs. GTW and 400 lbs. TW. It is also compatible with a weight distribution hitch for level towing and a rating of 5,000 lbs. WD and 500 lbs. WDTW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.

CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts)
2 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2024 - 2026 | Chrysler Grand Caravan | — |
| 2022 - 2025 | Lexus NX350 | Excluding F Sport |
Part number 13383 is a receiver hitch designed for 2017-present Chrysler Pacifica vans. It is a weight-carrying hitch with a gross load capacity of 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 400 lbs tongue weight. When used as a weight distribution hitch, capacity increases to 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. The hitch itself weighs 90 lbs.
Part 13383 is designed for 2017-present Chrysler Pacifica vans. The manual does not specify whether it fits all trim levels or configurations within this model year range. For fitment confirmation on your specific vehicle, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 or visit www.curtmfg.com.
Yes. Hybrid models require two additional steps: (1) temporarily remove the emissions canister on the driver side frame rail using a 10mm socket to remove 2 bolts, then reinstall using provided M6 hardware, and (2) enlarge holes on the driver side frame rail using a die grinder as shown in the Hole Enlargement Diagram. Non-hybrid models do not require these steps.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 3/4-inch socket, universal joint socket, screwdriver, masking tape, aviation shears, and die grinder. Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation.
The hitch includes: (5) 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 carriage bolts 1-1/2 inches long (part 10-10287), (5) 0.250 x 1.00 x 2.50-inch square hole spacers (part CM-SP10), (5) 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062), (5) 1/2-inch fishwires (part 1_2 FISHWIRE), (1) tap bolt (part 10-10513), (1) 1/4-20 x 1.00 hex bolt (part 10-10424), and (1) hex nut (part 20-00192). Hybrid models also receive M6 hardware for emissions canister reinstallation.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, CURT recommends contacting an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Professional installation time is 90 minutes. Novice (DIY) installation time is 45 minutes. Actual time may vary depending on experience, tool availability, and vehicle condition.
Yes, trimming is required. You must trim the underbody panel and heat shield. The underbody panel requires a 0.5-inch by 10-inch slot marked with masking tape and cut using aviation shears. The heat shield requires a 5-inch by 13-inch section marked and trimmed using aviation shears. On hybrid models, holes on the driver side frame rail must be enlarged using a die grinder.
The underbody panel slot must be 0.5 inches wide by 10 inches long, marked 6 inches from the center of the hole. Use masking tape to mark the area and aviation shears to trim it.
The heat shield section must be 5 inches by 13 inches, marked with masking tape and trimmed using aviation shears.
A die grinder is required only on hybrid Chrysler Pacifica models. It is used to enlarge holes on the driver side frame rail as shown in the Hole Enlargement Diagram. Non-hybrid models do not require this step.
All 1/2-inch hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. This is the final torque specification applied after the hitch is raised into position and all bolts are loosely fastened.
The hitch weight is 90 lbs.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the maximum capacity is 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 400 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
When used as a weight distribution hitch, the maximum capacity is 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
The installation sequence is: (1) Remove underbody panel fasteners (5 screws, 7 nuts, 2 bolts, 2 plastic screws); (2) Remove 3 screws from driver side wheel well, remove underbody panel, trim 0.5" x 10" slot, set panel aside; (3) Lower exhaust by removing 2 rubber isolators; (4) Remove 2 plastic nuts, remove heat shield, trim 5" x 13" section, reinstall with 1 nut; (5-6) On hybrid only: remove emissions canister and enlarge frame rail holes with die grinder; (7) Fishwire bolts and spacers through access holes; (8) Remove 1 nut from driver side frame rail, relocate electrical ground if present; (9) Raise hitch starting with passenger side, align with fishwires, loosely fasten nuts; (10) Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs, reinstall underbody panel.
Yes, the exhaust must be lowered by removing 2 rubber isolators. This is a temporary step to provide clearance for installation. The exhaust is not permanently removed.
Fishwire is used to thread 1/2-inch carriage bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes before the hitch is raised into position. The fishwires help align the bolts with the hitch holes during installation, making it easier to fasten the nuts. The fishwires are removed before final fastening.
No. After fishwiring the bolts and spacers through the frame rail access holes and raising the hitch into position, fasteners should be loosely fastened only. Specifically, loosely fasten 2 hex flange nuts on the driver side and 3 hex flange nuts on the passenger side. All fasteners are fully torqued to 110 ft-lbs only after the hitch is properly aligned and positioned.
On the driver side frame rail, if an electrical ground is present, it must be relocated using the provided 1/4-inch hardware (1/4-20 x 1.00 hex bolt and hex nut). Ensure the area is free of rust, dirt, and paint before reinstalling the ground.
After removing the underbody panel in Step 2, set it aside for later reinstallation. After trimming the 0.5-inch by 10-inch slot, the panel is reinstalled in Step 10 by following Steps 1 and 2 in reverse order.
After removing the heat shield in Step 4, trim the marked 5-inch by 13-inch section using aviation shears, then reinstall it with 1 nut using a 10mm socket. If there is no underbody panel, instead remove 4 plastic nuts, trim the panel, and reinstall with 3 plastic nuts.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. While CURT part 13383 has a maximum capacity of 4,000 lbs trailer weight and 400 lbs tongue weight for weight-carrying use (or 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight for weight distribution use), your Chrysler Pacifica's manufacturer specifications may be lower. Always follow the more restrictive limit.
After installation, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is critical to safe operation.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact inspection interval. For specific maintenance recommendations, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 or visit www.curtmfg.com.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when the product is returned, prepaid, with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse, or improper installation of this product voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and specifically excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
CURT part 13383 complies with safety specifications and requirements for connecting devices and towing systems of the state of New York, V.E.S.C. Regulation V-5 and SAE J684.
Yes, CURT part 13383 is designed for 2017-present Chrysler Pacifica vans. For fitment confirmation on your specific vehicle, contact CURT at 877-287-8634 or www.curtmfg.com.
You need: ratchet, torque wrench, 6-inch socket extension, 8mm/10mm/3/4-inch sockets, universal joint socket, screwdriver, masking tape, aviation shears, die grinder, and safety glasses. Hybrid models require the die grinder; non-hybrid models may not.
Yes. You must trim a 0.5" × 10" slot in the underbody panel and a 5" × 13" section of the heat shield using aviation shears. Hybrid models also require hole enlargement on the driver side frame rail using a die grinder.
All 1/2-inch hardware must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs after the hitch is raised into position and loosely fastened.
Weight-carrying: 4,000 lbs trailer, 400 lbs tongue. Weight distribution: 5,000 lbs trailer, 500 lbs tongue. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended capacity.
Professional: 90 minutes. Novice (DIY): 45 minutes. Two people may be required to ease installation.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Periodically check all fasteners are tight and structural components are sound.
Use the fishwires to help align the bolts with the hitch holes. Thread the fishwires through the holes on the hitch after raising it into position. This will guide the bolts into proper alignment before you remove the fishwires and fasten the nuts.
If there is no underbody panel, skip Step 2 (underbody panel removal and trimming). Proceed directly to Step 3 (lowering the exhaust). For the heat shield in Step 4, instead of removing 2 plastic nuts, remove 4 plastic nuts, trim the panel, and reinstall with 3 plastic nuts.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. If fasteners have loosened, retorque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs using a torque wrench. If fasteners continue to loosen, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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