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2025 - 2026 Hyundai Santa Cruz
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Complete CURT Class 3 2" trailer hitch and 4-flat custom wiring kit engineered for the 2025 - 2026 Hyundai Santa Cruz. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Hyundai Santa Cruz (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 5,000 lbs. GTW and 750 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Hyundai Santa Cruz (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494One-Year Limited
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2025 - 2026 | Hyundai Santa Cruz | — |
The CURT 13486 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 5,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify which vehicle makes, models, or years are compatible with part 13486. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
The installation procedure requires lowering the spare tire in Step 1. If your vehicle does not have a spare tire carrier, contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 to determine if this hitch is compatible with your vehicle.
The installation requires lowering the exhaust by removing three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers. The hitch is designed for vehicles with frame-mounted exhaust systems with these specific hanger points. If your exhaust configuration differs, contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 to confirm compatibility.
Required tools are: 12mm socket, 19mm socket, 3" socket extension, 1" or larger wrench, ratchet, torque wrench, universal joint, torque adapter (19mm), exhaust removal tool, and 3/8" socket. A 5/8" open end wrench and pry bar are also needed for rubber isolator removal if an exhaust removal tool is not available. For a complete tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The hitch includes 6 hex bolts (M12-1.25 x 40mm) and 6 conical-toothed washers (1/2"). Three bolts and three washers are used on each side of the vehicle frame. The vehicle provides three existing M12 weld nuts on each frame rail.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for guidance on battery disconnection.
The installation is rated as "Easy" based on time and effort involved, though difficulty may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and proper tools and equipment. The manual does not specify whether professional installation is required or recommended. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 if you have concerns about your ability to complete the installation.
Before installation, you must lower the spare tire and lower the exhaust by removing the three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers. The installation also requires exhaust rod bending. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning, and ensure you have all required tools available.
If an exhaust removal tool is not available, use a 5/8" open end wrench and a pry bar. Slide the wrench up to the rubber isolator, cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of the pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or hanger rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using a lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
To remove debris from the weld nuts in the frame, spray lubricant or compressed air into the hole. For heavy debris, use a wire brush. Take care not to damage the threads.
The conical-toothed washers (1/2") must be installed with the conical teeth facing the hitch side plate. The hex bolt passes through the washer into the weld nut.
1. Lower the spare tire using a 3/8" socket and set aside. 2. Lower the exhaust by removing the three rearmost rubber holders from the exhaust hangers; support the exhaust with a stand. 3. Raise the hitch into position by sliding the passenger side over the exhaust first. 4. Align the three holes in the hitch with the three weld nuts on both frame rails. 5. Loosely install three hex bolts with conical-toothed washers on each side. 6. Torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs. 7. Reinstall the spare tire and exhaust.
Loosely install the three hex bolts with conical-toothed washers on each side first to align the hitch with the weld nuts. Only after all bolts are in place and the hitch is properly aligned should you torque all M12 fasteners to 60 ft-lbs.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 60 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench and torque adapter (19mm) for ease of installation. Proper torque is essential to prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
Use a 19mm socket with a torque adapter (19mm) to torque the M12 bolts to 60 ft-lbs. A 3" socket extension and universal joint may also be needed depending on access.
No drilling is required. The hitch uses three existing M12 weld nuts on each frame rail. However, the installation requires lowering the spare tire, lowering the exhaust, and exhaust rod bending.
The manual states that exhaust rod bending is required for installation but does not specify whether this is a permanent modification or temporary adjustment. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for clarification on the nature and permanence of this modification.
After installation, inspect the hitch and exhaust to ensure there is adequate clearance between them. If additional clearance is needed, remove the rearmost rubber isolator from the frame-rail exhaust hanger rod and bend it down approximately five degrees using a box end wrench, then reinstall the isolator. Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify a particular inspection interval. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for recommended maintenance intervals.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. When lowering the exhaust, use a stand to support it and prevent any damage. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Vehicle compatibility is not specified in the manual. Contact CURT at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your vehicle.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 5,000 lbs; tongue weight capacity is 750 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools include 12mm and 19mm sockets, 3" socket extension, 1" or larger wrench, ratchet, torque wrench, universal joint, 19mm torque adapter, exhaust removal tool, and 3/8" socket. A 5/8" open end wrench and pry bar are needed if an exhaust removal tool is unavailable.
All M12 fasteners must be torqued to 60 ft-lbs using a torque wrench and 19mm torque adapter.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Support the exhaust with a stand when lowering it. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Part 56553 is a powered converter module wiring harness system for SUVs and vans. It converts factory vehicle lighting signals (turn, brake, and taillight) to a 4-flat trailer connector, allowing you to connect a trailer with functioning lights. The system includes a converter box, wiring harness with color-coded wires (yellow for left turn, green for right turn, red for brake, brown for taillight), power lead, ground wire, and all necessary fasteners and connectors.
Part 56553 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not list specific vehicle makes, models, or years. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your vehicle before purchasing.
No. Part 56553 is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Using it on 24-volt or positive ground systems will cause improper function and potential damage.
Required tools are: ratchet, ratchet extension, 10mm socket, wire cutters, wire crimpers, wire strippers, Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, fish wire, and trim panel tool. You will also need an abrasive pad or paper to clean rust and paint from the grounding area, and a drill with a 3/32" bit if a suitable existing screw is not available for the ground connection.
The kit includes: cable ties (for securing wires), double-sided tape (for mounting the converter module), a ground screw with ring terminal, a 4-flat dust cover, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, butt connectors, and a 12 GA power wire. The manual indicates these are supplied items, though it does not provide a complete itemized parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Do not reconnect the battery until Step 10, after all other wiring is complete.
The installation is rated as Difficult. Installation difficulty is based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Step 2: Open the tailgate and locate and remove the two 10mm bolts holding the taillights in place on each side. Step 3: Pull the taillight outwards from the side of the vehicle. Once removed, separate the connector from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillight aside and repeat on the other side.
Step 4: Underneath the vehicle on the driver side, locate the rear protective panel and remove the two 10mm plastic nuts and three push pins. Then remove the cover and set it aside. This provides access to route the wiring harness.
Fish-wiring is a technique to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole or cavity. For part 56553: (1) Insert fish wire (stiff wire, rope, string, or cut wire hanger) through the blind hole between the vehicle body and locate it on the other side. (2) Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire. (3) Pull the harness back up through the cavity. If the wire gets hung up, push back down, wiggle it, or twist to loosen it. The manual warns to avoid damaging the tailgate dampening shock when fish-wiring between the shock and rear bed area.
Step 5: Starting from the driver side, fish wire down between the vehicle body to under the vehicle. Attach the housing with the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull up to the taillight opening. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connector. Attach the connectors between the taillight harness and the factory connectors that were separated in Step 3. Reinstall the taillight into the mount. The yellow wire carries the left turn signal.
Step 6: Route the green wire to the bumper and down to the passenger side. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Repeat Step 5 with the connector containing the green wire, using the same fish-wiring technique to pull the harness up to the passenger side taillight opening and connect it to the factory connectors. The green wire carries the right turn signal.
Step 7 requires grounding the white ground wire. First, locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing screw is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. Clean the area of rust, dirt, and paint using an abrasive pad or paper.
If a suitable existing screw is not available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided ground screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt, and paint; use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Step 8: Locate a flat, clean surface behind the removed rear protective cover. Mount the light modules box using the supplied double-sided tape or cable ties. The module must be mounted in a protected area with the epoxy side down to prevent water buildup and debris collection. Failure to mount in a protected area can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential damage.
Step 8 and the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet detail power connection: Route a 12 GA wire or larger from the converter to the vehicle battery location, avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Connect the black power wire to the positive battery terminal using a ring terminal. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. Install the fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse after all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum; exceeding this rating causes loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The color-coded wires on part 56553 are: Yellow = Left turn signal, Green = Right turn signal, Red = Brake signal, Brown = Taillight (running light). The white wire is the ground wire. These colors match standard trailer lighting conventions and connect to the corresponding factory vehicle lighting circuits.
Step 9: Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. The 4-flat connector is where you will plug in a trailer with functioning lights. Step 10 includes installing the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum. Exceeding this rating causes loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse is provided and must be installed after all other steps are complete.
Part 56553 has the following electrical ratings: Signal circuits (left and right turn) = 3.0 amps per side; Tail/Running circuits = 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Key safety precautions: (1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning and fasten it down and away from the battery. (2) Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (red covers or '+' symbol) to avoid shorts, sparks, and electrical shocks. (3) Do not ground the negative cable to a metal item during installation; this damages the vehicle's electrical system. (4) Check for hidden items before drilling to avoid personal injury and property damage. (5) Avoid damaging the tailgate dampening shock when fish-wiring. (6) Route the power wire avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. (7) Use a grommet or silicone when passing the power wire through sheet metal to protect from sharp edges. (8) Mount the converter module in a protected area to prevent water buildup and debris collection.
Step 10 and the Notice on page 4 require verification that the harness is functioning after installation. Test by: (1) Attaching the 4-flat connector to any trailer with functioning lights, or (2) Using a 4-flat tester, test light, or multimeter to verify proper signal and power. Do not operate the vehicle with a trailer until testing confirms proper function.
Step 10: Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Reinstall all removed items (taillights, rear protective panel, tailgate) in the reverse order of disassembly. Test the harness for proper function using a trailer with functioning lights, a 4-flat tester, test light, or multimeter before operating the vehicle.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval; consult the vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for maintenance recommendations.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting and fasten it away from the battery. Reconnect only after all wiring is complete in Step 10.
Drilling is required only if a suitable existing screw is not available for the ground connection. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (red covers or '+' symbol) during installation; this causes shorts, sparks, and electrical shocks. Also, the battery connection must be fuse-protected at 10 amps maximum to prevent overheating and fire.
If the fish wire or harness gets hung up on something during the fish-wiring process, try the following: (1) Push the wire back down, (2) Wiggle it around to loosen it, or (3) Twist the wire to loosen it from what it is hung up on. If the issue persists, you may need to reposition the fish wire entry point or use a different routing path. Avoid damaging the tailgate dampening shock when working in the rear area.
If the double-sided tape is not holding the converter module securely, use cable ties instead to secure the module to a suitable mounting point behind the rear protective cover. Ensure the mounting surface is clean and flat, and that the module is positioned with the epoxy side down. The module must be mounted in a protected area to prevent water buildup and debris collection.
Verify the following: (1) The negative battery terminal is reconnected. (2) The 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder and is not blown. (3) All wire connectors are fully seated and not damaged, especially the taillight connectors separated in Step 3. (4) The white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle frame with the ring terminal and ground screw. (5) The black power wire is connected to the positive battery terminal with a ring terminal. (6) All wires are routed correctly and not pinched or damaged. (7) Test using a trailer with functioning lights, a 4-flat tester, test light, or multimeter to identify which circuit is not functioning (left turn, right turn, brake, or taillight).
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