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2021 - 2024 Acura TLX
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Complete CURT Class 1 1-1/4" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2021 - 2025 Acura TLX. Vehicle-specific fit, plug-and-play installation, all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
However you define adventure -- whether it's climbing onto the back of a mountain bike, hunting from the top of a tree stand or camping with the family a long way from nowhere -- CURT class 1 hitches provide a light-duty towing receiver to help you Bring It. Each is made to fit a specific vehicle, providing easier installation, a better fit and optimal towing capacity. Custom class 1 trailer hitches are available for a variety of smaller vehicle types, including the compact car, crossover, minivan and small SUV. This particular class 1 hitch is designed to be a custom hitch for certain years of the Acura TLX (to verify vehicle compatibility, see the CURT application guide at curtmfg.com). Tested in accordance with SAE J684, it offers a weight carrying capacity of 2,000 lbs. GTW and 200 lbs. TW. It is equipped with 1-1/4" receiver tube opening to accept a ball mount shank or other hitch mount. This class 1 hitch also comes with all necessary mounting hardware. With its lightweight design and smaller receiver tube size, a class 1 hitch is especially useful for adding cargo space with a hitch-mounted bike rack or cargo carrier. They can also typically be used to tow small trailers such as a utility trailer, kayak trailer or teardrop camper (never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component; i.e. the vehicle, hitch, trailer, etc). Though CURT class 1 trailer hitches are only intended for light-duty towing, we apply the same principles of quality as we do to the rest of our rear mount hitches. Each class 1 hitch is made with hands-on engineering, high-strength steel and precise welding. We use a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat, inside and out, and durable black powder coat to provide a lasting defense against rust, chips and UV rays.
If your vehicle is not equipped with wiring for towing a trailer, CURT custom wiring is the ideal solution. A custom wiring harness -- also called a T-connector -- is a simple, plug-and-play electrical device that plugs into your automotive electric system and provides a standard, universal trailer wiring connection. This is done using two or more vehicle-specific, OEM-compatible connectors to plug into the taillight assembly, eliminating the need for cutting, splicing and soldering during installation. Custom wiring harnesses are made vehicle-specific, and while they are not available for all vehicles, they do offer one of the fastest, easiest and most secure ways to wire a vehicle for towing. This particular plug-in harness provides a 4-way flat connector socket and is designed to be a custom wiring harness to fit certain years of the Acura TLX (to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary wiring components to establish a reliable trailer wiring connection, as well as a dust cover to keep the connector clean when not in use. You have a picture in mind of your next destination -- maybe it's the boat landing at your favorite fishing spot, maybe it's a campsite that overlooks one of nature's masterpieces, or maybe it's the next big jobsite. However, turning that picture into a reality takes more than just daydreaming. It takes a solid connection and the right amount of power. CURT custom wiring is made with some of the most sophisticated technology in the industry and is designed to install with ease, giving you a long-lasting electrical connection for your towing hitch setup.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2021 - 2024 | Acura TLX | — |
The 21 - 24 Acura TLX Curt 1-1/4" Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 11670 (Part #5W-CHW-30) fits 2021-2024 Acura TLX models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 21 - 24 Acura TLX Curt 1-1/4" Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 11670 (Part #5W-CHW-30) is designed to fit the 2021-2024 Acura TLX.
The 21 - 24 Acura TLX Curt 1-1/4" Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 11670 (Part #5W-CHW-30) fits the following vehicles: 2021-2024 Acura TLX. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 21 - 24 Acura TLX Curt 1-1/4" Class 1 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 11670 (Part #5W-CHW-30) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 11670 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, or year compatibility. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific vehicle.
Required tools are: ratchet, drill, 10mm socket, 11/16" socket, 1/2" drill bit, marker, 7/16" fishwire (4 qty included), flathead screwdriver, and tin snips. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 4 carriage bolts (7/16" - 14 x 1.5"), 4 spacers (2.25" x 0.88" x 0.25"), and 4 serrated-flange nuts (7/16" - 14).
Yes. Step 1 requires carefully removing the exhaust from the two rubber isolators. Place supports under the exhaust to prevent damage to the vehicle. The exhaust is reinstalled in step 8 after the hitch is secured.
The manual provides an alternative technique if exhaust hanger removal pliers are not available: use a 5/8" open end wrench, slide it up to the rubber isolator cradling the hanger rod. Place the flat edge of a pry bar between the wrench and the hanger stop or rod, then rotate the pry bar toward the wrench to remove the isolator. Using lubricant or soapy water on the hanger rod and isolator helps removal.
Yes. Step 2 requires removing four bolts from each heat shield on either side of the exhaust using a 10mm socket. Remove both heat shields and set them aside with their eight bolts for reinstallation in step 8.
Yes. Step 4 requires drilling new forward attachment holes using a 1/2" drill bit on marks made in step 3. You must also enlarge the existing rear attachment holes to 1/2" on both sides of the vehicle frame rails.
Yes. Step 7 requires trimming the heat shields. Using a tape measure, marker, and tin snips, measure and mark the area as shown in the diagram (7-1/2" and 3-1/2" dimensions), then trim accordingly. The trimmed heat shields are reinstalled in step 8.
The fishwire technique guides the carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame rails to the mounting holes without losing them inside the frame. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, pass it through the spacer, thread the bolt into the coil, kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole.
Step 5 requires fishwiring two 7/16" bolts through the spacer into the existing access hole in the frame rail on each side of the vehicle (four bolts total).
Torque the 7/16" hardware (carriage bolts and serrated-flange nuts) to 59 ft-lbs. This is applied in step 6 after the hitch is raised into position and the fishwires are removed.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. When removing the exhaust in step 1, place supports under it to prevent damage to the vehicle. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual recommends referring to specified torque specifications (59 ft-lbs for 7/16" hardware) when checking hardware during inspection.
The manual does not specify vehicle compatibility. Contact CURT at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your specific make, model, and year.
You need: ratchet, drill, 10mm and 11/16" sockets, 1/2" drill bit, marker, 7/16" fishwire (4 qty included), flathead screwdriver, and tin snips.
Yes. You must drill new forward attachment holes with a 1/2" bit and enlarge existing rear holes to 1/2" on both frame rails.
Yes. The exhaust must be lowered from its rubber isolators in step 1 and reinstalled in step 8 after the hitch is secured.
Torque all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs with a 200 lb tongue weight capacity. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The Curt 56528 is a powered converter lead system that provides trailer lighting control for passenger cars. It converts the vehicle's taillight signals (brake, left turn, right turn, and taillight) into a 4-flat trailer connector. The system includes a powered converter module that mounts in the battery area and custom wiring harnesses that route through the vehicle's trunk to the taillights.
The Curt 56528 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The installation requires access to the trunk, taillight housings, and battery. The manual shows wiring locations for passenger cars (P1–P7) behind taillight housings and rear bumper areas. For vehicle-specific fitment confirmation, consult the vehicle manufacturer or a fitment database, as the manual does not list specific vehicle makes and models.
No. The converter system is designed for use only on 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or vehicles with positive ground electrical systems.
You will need: a ratchet, an 8mm socket, a cutting tool, and a panel trim removal tool. The manual lists these as required tools. Additional items provided with the product include silicone sealant, double-sided tape, cable ties, a 4-flat dust cover, and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse.
The product includes: a powered converter module (black box), custom wiring harnesses with brown, red, yellow, and green wires, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, silicone sealant, double-sided tape, cable ties, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, a white ground wire with ring terminal, and a screw for ground attachment. A ring terminal is required for the battery connection.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. In Step 1, open the trunk, remove floor coverings and the foam tray to access the battery, then disconnect the negative terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during installation. Reconnect it only after all other installation steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
The installation is rated as 'Easy'. However, the manual notes that difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and whether proper tools and equipment are available.
In Step 3, pull back the felt trunk liner in front of the taillight. Use an 8mm socket to remove the two taillight fasteners (nuts). Pull the taillight out straight back from the vehicle. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors, which will be similar to those on the new custom wiring product. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat this process on the passenger side.
In Step 5, locate the grommet behind the taillight where the vehicle's taillight wiring passes through from inside the cabin to the taillight. Remove the grommet and cut a slit large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. Route the custom wiring end with the brown and red wires out through the grommet opening and through the slit in the grommet. Insert the custom wiring end with brown and red wires between the separated connectors, ensuring the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Reseat the grommet and use the provided sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires.
In Step 8, connect the power wire (black wire with the fuse holder) to the positive post of the battery, and the ground wire to the negative post. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. Adhere the black converter box in the base of the battery mount area using the provided double-sided tape. Do not install the fuse until all other steps are complete. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector along the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Drilling may be required only for the ground wire attachment. According to the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet, attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. A 3/32-inch hole must be drilled only if a suitable existing mounting point is not available. The manual does not require drilling for any other part of the installation.
Yes. In Step 5, you must cut a slit in the grommet behind the taillight large enough to route the new custom wiring end through. After routing the wires, reseat the grommet and use the provided silicone sealant to seal the cut in the grommet and around all wires. This is a permanent modification to the grommet.
The Curt 56528 has the following electrical ratings: Signal circuits (left turn, right turn) are rated at 3.0 amps per side; Tail/Running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
An 8mm socket is required to remove the two taillight fasteners (nuts) in Step 3. The manual does not specify a torque value for reinstallation.
The power wire is 12 gauge (12 GA) or larger. This wire connects from the battery to the converter module and must be routed to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
The wiring colors are: Green = Right turn; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn; Brown = Taillight. The black wire with fuse holder is the power wire that connects to the positive battery terminal. The white wire is the ground wire that connects to the negative battery terminal or vehicle body.
The manual identifies seven wiring locations (P1–P7) for passenger cars: P1 = Behind driver side taillight housing, outside of trunk; P2 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, outside of trunk; P3 = Behind driver side taillight housing, inside of trunk; P4 = Behind passenger side taillight housing, inside of trunk; P5 = Behind driver side rear bumper; P6 = Behind center of rear bumper; P7 = Behind passenger side rear bumper. The installation uses P1 and P2 as the primary connection points.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse should be installed only after all other installation steps are complete.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks. When reconnecting the battery at the end of installation, ensure the negative terminal is fastened securely. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse.
Route the 12-gauge power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface. This is necessary to avoid personal injury or property damage. The only drilling required is a 3/32-inch hole for the ground wire attachment if a suitable existing mounting point is not available.
In Step 8, test the 4-flat connector with a working trailer or tester. This should be done before reinstalling grommets and other components. The manual recommends using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer to verify proper function.
After installation is complete and tested, reinstall all items removed during installation, including: the grommets (with green and yellow wires in the cuts, sealed with silicone sealant), the felt trunk liner, the threshold, and the trunk floor coverings. Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval. Check the 4-flat connector and dust cover regularly, and ensure the silicone sealant around the grommet cuts remains intact to prevent water intrusion.
Yes, the Curt 56528 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Fitment requires trunk access and accessible taillight housings. Consult a fitment database or the vehicle manufacturer for specific vehicle compatibility.
Yes, you must disconnect the negative battery terminal before installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Drilling is required only for the ground wire attachment if no existing mounting point is available; a 3/32-inch hole is needed. You must also cut a slit in the grommet behind the taillight to route the custom wiring through.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits (left/right turn) are rated at 3.0 amps per side; Tail/Running circuits are rated at 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting. Do not lay tools across the positive terminal (risk of short, sparks, electrical shock). Route the power wire away from hot and rotating components. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse.
First, verify that you tested the 4-flat connector with a working trailer or tester as instructed in Step 8. If the connector does not function: (1) Check that the black converter module is properly connected to both the positive and negative battery terminals with the correct wire colors (black to positive, white to negative). (2) Verify that the 10-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. (3) Confirm that the custom wiring connectors (brown and red wires) are fully inserted between the separated taillight connectors with locking tabs in place. (4) Inspect all wires and connections for visible damage or loose connections as part of periodic maintenance. (5) Ensure the vehicle's taillight circuits are functioning properly by checking the taillights and turn signals.
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