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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 500 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 5,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | n/a |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Superceded by Item | 56478 |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2022 - 2024 | Ram ProMaster 1500 | Excluding remote proximity keyless entry |
The 22-24 RAM ProMaster 1500 Excluding remote proximity keyless entry 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2155 (Part #HBCW2155) fits 2022-2024 Ram ProMaster 1500 models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 22-24 RAM ProMaster 1500 Excluding remote proximity keyless entry 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2155 (Part #HBCW2155) fits the following vehicles: 2022-2024 Ram ProMaster 1500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 22-24 RAM ProMaster 1500 Excluding remote proximity keyless entry 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2155 (Part #HBCW2155) is designed to fit the 2022-2024 Ram ProMaster 1500.
The 22-24 RAM ProMaster 1500 Excluding remote proximity keyless entry 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2155 (Part #HBCW2155) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13295 is designed to fit 2014-current RAM ProMaster vans. However, you should verify your specific vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing. If you have questions about fitment for your exact vehicle, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
The CURT 13295 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 5,000 lbs and a tongue weight of 500 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating. Always check your RAM ProMaster owner's manual for the vehicle's maximum towing limit.
No. All non-trailer (wheel-less) loads applied to this hitch must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Do not attach cargo carriers, roof boxes, or similar items without these straps. See the CURT catalog or visit www.curtmfg.com for further information on the 18050 stabilizing straps.
You will need: a ratchet, torque wrench, 15mm socket, 16mm socket, 3/4" socket, T30 torx bit, and safety glasses. The installation requires no drilling. You may also want to have 2 people available to help with the installation.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. However, the installation does involve removing the bumper cover, which may have a rear back-up sensor that must be disconnected before complete removal. If you are unsure, contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
Yes, you must temporarily remove the bumper cover. Open the rear vehicle doors to expose the bumper cover and fasteners. Using a T30 torx bit, remove 8 fasteners and the bumper cover. If a rear back-up sensor is present, disconnect it before completely removing the cover. The bumper cover is reinstalled at the end of the installation.
No, drilling is not required. The installation uses existing holes in the bumper beam and frame. The hitch is secured using fishwire hardware and existing fastener locations.
1. Open rear doors and remove 8 T30 torx fasteners to remove the bumper cover (disconnect back-up sensor if present). 2. Remove 2 M10 bolts and 1 M10 nut from each side of the bumper beam (use 16mm socket for bolts, 15mm socket for nuts). 3. Fishwire the 1/2" carriage bolts and SP6 spacers through access holes and out existing bumper beam holes. 4. With hitch side plates flat on ground, align center holes with fishwired bolts and loosely secure with 1/2" flange nuts. 5. Raise hitch and bumper beam into position, aligning holes with frame holes, and secure with M10-1.25 x 30mm hex flange bolts and the M10 nuts from step 2. 6. Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all M10 hardware to 48 ft-lbs. 7. Reinstall bumper cover with original fasteners, starting with outside bottom fasteners and working in. Reconnect back-up sensor if present.
Torque all 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts and flange nuts) to 110 ft-lbs. Torque all M10 hardware (M10-1.25 x 30mm hex flange bolts and M10 nuts) to 48 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightness.
Fishwire is a technique for routing fasteners through access holes. In step 3, you thread the 1/2" carriage bolts and SP6 spacers through the access holes in the bumper and out through the existing holes in the bumper beam. This allows you to position the bolts before raising the hitch into place. The manual provides 1/2" fishwire as part of the hardware kit to assist with this process.
In step 4, you loosely secure the hitch to the bumper beam with 1/2" flange nuts. Do not fully tighten these yet. After raising the hitch and bumper beam into position in step 5 and securing with the M10 hardware, then torque all fasteners to their final specifications in step 6: 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and M10 hardware to 48 ft-lbs.
The kit includes: 2 carriage bolts (1/2-13 UNC, 1-1/4", grade 8, part 10-10278); 2 serrated flange nuts (1/2-13 UNC, grade 8, part 20-00062); 4 M10x1.25 x 30mm hex flange bolts (class 10.9, part 10-10279); 2 square hole spacers (0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00", part CM-SP6); and 2 pieces of 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE). The M10 nuts and bolts securing the bumper beam are reused from the vehicle.
Yes. In step 2, you remove 2 M10 bolts and 1 M10 nut from each side of the bumper beam. These original fasteners are reused in step 5 to secure the hitch and bumper beam to the frame. Do not discard them.
In step 7, reinstall the bumper cover using the 8 T30 torx fasteners that were removed in step 1. Start with the outside bottom fasteners and work inward. You may need to gently flex the bumper cover to align it with the fastener holes. If a back-up sensor was disconnected, reconnect it before fully securing the cover.
Wear safety glasses at all times while installing this product. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that 2 people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance. You can reach CURT technical support at 877-287-8634.
After installation, periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This is an ongoing maintenance requirement, not a one-time check. Regularly inspect the hitch before towing to ensure it remains in safe working condition.
The manual states you should periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. It does not specify an exact interval. As a best practice, inspect the hitch before each towing trip and at regular maintenance intervals. If fasteners become loose, retorque them to the original specifications: 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and M10 hardware to 48 ft-lbs.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Warranty is voided by alteration, misuse, or improper installation. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, the CURT 13295 fits 2014-current RAM ProMaster vans. Verify your vehicle year matches this range.
Maximum 5,000 lbs trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Ratchet, torque wrench, 15mm/16mm/3/4" sockets, T30 torx bit, and safety glasses. Two people may be required.
Torque 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and M10 hardware to 48 ft-lbs.
No. Non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. See www.curtmfg.com for details.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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