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2024 Chevrolet Traverse Limited
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| Mount Location | Rear |
| 1775 | No |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Class | III |
| Main Body Shape | Round |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LBS |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Electrical Component Location | Vehicle / Trailer |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2024 | Chevrolet Traverse Limited | — |
Yes, the 24-24 Chevrolet Traverse Limited 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW614 (Part #HBCW614) is designed to fit the 2024 Chevrolet Traverse Limited.
The 24-24 Chevrolet Traverse Limited 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW614 (Part #HBCW614) fits 2024 Chevrolet Traverse Limited models. The 2024 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 24-24 Chevrolet Traverse Limited 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW614 (Part #HBCW614) fits the following vehicles: 2024 Chevrolet Traverse Limited. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 24-24 Chevrolet Traverse Limited 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW614 (Part #HBCW614) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
Gross trailer weight (GTW) is 2,000 lbs. Tongue weight (TW) is 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
You will need: ratchet, utility knife, 17mm socket, safety glasses, and torque wrench. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. After installation, perform periodic inspection to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The kit includes: 1 trailer hitch, 4 carriage bolts (7/16"), 4 serrated-flange nuts (7/16"), 4 square-hole spacers (0.25" × 0.88" × 2.25"), and 4 fishwire tools (7/16").
The fishwire is a coiled wire tool used to guide the carriage bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame rails without losing them inside the frame. Insert the coiled end through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, pass it through the spacer, thread the bolt into the coil, kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pull the fishwire, spacer and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. This prevents loss of hardware inside the frame rail.
Step 1: Using the provided fishwire, pull two 7/16" carriage bolts and spacers into the two rear-most holes in each frame rail through the larger access holes, leaving fishwire attached. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle. Step 2: Raise the hitch into place using the attached fishwire as a guide and pull the carriage bolts through the mounting holes. Step 3: Remove the fishwire and hand tighten the serrated flange nuts to secure the hitch. Step 4: Use a torque wrench and 17mm socket to torque the four nuts to 70 ft-lbs.
It may be required to trim some of the caulking on the frame rail seam using a utility knife to allow the holes to align properly.
After pulling the carriage bolts through the mounting holes in Step 2, you may need to re-position the carriage bolt and spacer to seat flush against the inside of the frame rail. The spacer should sit flat and fully against the frame, not at an angle or protruding.
Torque the four 7/16" serrated-flange nuts to 70 ft-lbs using a torque wrench and 17mm socket.
You need a 17mm socket to torque the four 7/16" serrated-flange nuts.
Yes. Before you begin installation, read all instructions thoroughly. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. This helps prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the instruction manual, as well as helpful videos, guides and more. You can also contact product support at 877.287.8634.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtmfg.com/surveys.
The Curt 56514 is a custom wiring harness with a powered converter designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. It converts vehicle taillight signals to trailer lighting signals and includes a converter box that mounts inside the trunk. The system handles signal circuits (7.5 amps per side) and tail/running circuits (5.0 amps total).
The Curt 56514 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system and to locate the battery. The manual does not specify which vehicle models or years are compatible, so contact Curt Manufacturing or your dealer for fitment confirmation.
Yes. The installation involves locating your vehicle's taillight wiring connectors (behind the taillight housing inside the trunk on both driver and passenger sides) and inserting the custom harness T-end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. The connectors have external red locks and internal locks that must be released carefully during disconnection.
You will need: ratchet, wire cutter, 10mm socket, wire crimp tool, and panel trim removal tool. These are listed as required tools on page 1 of the manual.
The manual shows a Hardware Photo but does not itemize the included components. Based on the installation steps, the kit includes: a black converter box, a T-end connector with yellow wire, white ground wire with ring terminal, green wire, black power wire, ground screw, double-sided tape, cable ties, 4-flat dust cover, and a 15-amp fuse holder. Contact Curt Manufacturing for a complete parts list.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery during the installation process. Reconnect the negative battery terminal only after all other steps are complete and before testing the system.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to remove the floor board to expose the spare tire. Use a trim tool to loosen the threshold and remove it straight up. The manual does not specify whether the spare tire itself must be removed or whether the floor board is reinstalled after installation.
The manual rates the installation difficulty as 'Easy'. However, the actual time and effort may vary depending on your experience level, your vehicle's condition, and whether you have the proper tools and equipment.
The black converter box mounts on a flat spot on the bottom of the trunk between the driver-side wall panel using the provided double-sided tape (Step 6). The area must be clean and flat for proper adhesion.
Locate the taillight wiring connectors behind the taillight housing (accessed after loosening the sidewall with a trim tool). The connectors have an external red lock that must be released by moving the tab towards the housing wire, and an internal lock that must be pressed in to unlock. The housings release easier if you push them together, press the lock release until it clicks, then pull the housings apart. Take care not to damage the locking tabs.
The green wire routes from the driver side to the passenger side along the back of the vehicle. Secure it in place using the provided cable ties (Step 8). This routing is done after repeating the taillight connector installation steps on the passenger side.
When in use, route the 4-flat with the center of the vehicle and out of the hatch to the trailer, staying clear of the hatch's latching mechanism. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. Step 7 instructs you to locate an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame as a grounding point, or drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole if no existing fastener is available. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint (use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it). Always check for hidden items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
If an existing fastener is not available, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole for the ground wire connection. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint before drilling.
No permanent modifications are required. The installation involves removing and reinstalling interior trim panels (floor board, threshold, sidewall) using a trim tool. All removed items must be reinstalled after the wiring is complete.
Signal circuits are rated at 7.5 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 5.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse must be installed after all other installation steps are complete.
The power wire is 12 GA (12 gauge) or larger. It must be routed from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges.
The wiring harness includes: green wire (right turn), red wire (brake), yellow wire (left turn), and brown wire (taillight). The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame. The black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal. The yellow wire T-end installs between the vehicle's taillight connectors.
The white ground wire has a ring terminal that must be attached to the vehicle body using either an existing screw or bolt in the frame, or a provided ground screw in a 3/32-inch drilled hole. The mounting area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint. Use an abrasive pad or paper to clean the area before securing the ring terminal.
Route the 12 GA black power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter using the provided 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' on page 5 of the manual. The black wire connects to the positive (+) battery terminal using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse, installed after all other steps are complete. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties, and protect it from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal using an existing grommet, adding a grommet, or using silicone.
The installation uses wiring locations P3 and P4: P3 is behind the driver side taillight housing inside the trunk, and P4 is behind the passenger side taillight housing inside the trunk. These locations are where the vehicle's taillight wiring connectors are accessed to install the custom harness.
Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal (typically marked with red covers or a red '+' symbol), as this can cause a ground short resulting in sparks and electrical shocks. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and fasten it down and away from the battery. Check for hidden items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury. Route the 12 GA power wire avoiding pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use a ring terminal for the battery connection. If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded.
The manual does not specify a maximum tow load or capacity rating. It states: 'Do not exceed product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.' Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the tow vehicle lamp load rating.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual recommends testing before fully completing the installation to ensure proper function.
After installation, reinstall all items removed during the installation process (floor board, threshold, sidewall, cargo tie-downs). Reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to confirm proper operation.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. The manual does not specify an inspection interval. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact Curt Manufacturing for recommended maintenance intervals.
The Curt 56514 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle's electrical system type in your owner's manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing for specific vehicle model compatibility.
First, verify that the 15-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder after all other installation steps are complete. Confirm that the negative battery terminal is reconnected. Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer. Check that all wire connections are secure and that the taillight connectors are properly seated with the yellow wire T-end installed between them. Inspect all wires for visible damage or loose connections. Ensure the white ground wire ring terminal is securely attached to a clean, rust-free mounting point on the vehicle frame.
The connectors have an external red lock and an internal lock. Release the external red lock by moving the tab towards the housing wire. Press the internal lock to unlock the housings. The housings release easier if you push them together first, then press the lock release until it clicks, and finally pull the housings apart. Take care not to damage the locking tabs during this process.
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