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Complete CURT Class 4 2" trailer hitch and 5-flat wiring kit (with 4-way to 5-way adapter for surge brakes) engineered for the 2024 - 2024 Ford F-150 With factory receiver. Vehicle-specific hitch fit, with a universal taillight converter for trailer wiring; all hardware and instructions included.
This custom kit fits the following vehicles:
All Hardware and Installation Instructions Included!
Whatever the next item is on your to-do list -- whether it's arriving at the jobsite before dawn or getting your travel trailer set up in time to see the sunset -- CURT class 4 trailer hitches offer greater towing power to let you Bring It. These custom receiver hitches are built to tackle bigger jobs and bolder adventures, all while giving you a custom fit for your vehicle. Class 4 hitches are available for a variety of makes and models, from pickup trucks and SUVs to full-size and commercial vans. This particular class 4 hitch fits certain years of the Ford F-150 (to verify vehicle compatibility, see application info). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 10,000 lbs. GTW and 1,000 lbs. TW. It can also accept a weight distributing hitch, offering a maximum WD capacity of 12,000 lbs. and a WDTW of 1,200 lbs. CURT class 4 tow hitches are as much suited for work as they are for play. With their high load capacities, they are typically used for towing larger trailers, including everything from a double-axle utility trailer or livestock trailer to a full-length camper or large boat trailer (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest weight capacity of any towing component). All CURT class 4 receiver hitches come with a 2" receiver tube opening and all the necessary hardware for a complete installation. From light-duty to heavy-duty, every CURT custom hitch is engineered to be vehicle-specific, using actual vehicles to create the optimal design. We then combine high-strength steel, precise welding and a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and durable black powder coat to provide you with a hitch you can depend on. To prove it, we test all our hitches in accordance with SAE J684 for safety.
This CURT universal taillight converter is the go-to solution when a vehicle-specific custom harness isn't available for your make and model. It provides a standard 4-way flat trailer connector for tail lights, brake lights and turn signals, and is compatible with most vehicles (light splicing required). Built with surface-mount circuitry and a potted enclosure for durability against moisture, vibration and road debris. Includes a dust cover and is backed by a limited one-year warranty.
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2024 - 2025 | Ford F-150 | With factory receiver |
The 24 - 24 Ford F-150 With factory receiver Curt 2" Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 14021 (Part #5W-CHW-1028) fits 2024-2025 Ford F-150 models. The 2025 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 24 - 24 Ford F-150 With factory receiver Curt 2" Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 14021 (Part #5W-CHW-1028) fits the following vehicles: 2024-2025 Ford F-150. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 24 - 24 Ford F-150 With factory receiver Curt 2" Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 14021 (Part #5W-CHW-1028) is designed to fit the 2024-2025 Ford F-150.
The 24 - 24 Ford F-150 With factory receiver Curt 2" Class 4 Trailer Tow Hitch + 5-Flat Wiring Kit Tow Boat/Utility Trailer with Surge Brakes 14021 (Part #5W-CHW-1028) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The CURT 14021 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 10,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 1,000 lbs. For weight distribution towing, the capacity is 12,000 lbs GTW with 1,200 lbs tongue weight.
Yes. The installation requires lowering the spare tire before beginning work and raising it back into position after final torque is applied.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 10mm socket, 15/16" socket, 13mm socket, and masking tape. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
If present, yes. Using a 10mm socket, remove the grounding cable from the rear of the passenger-side frame rail in Step 1. Return the fastener to the vehicle owner. Reinstall it in Step 5 using the provided M8 flange bolt.
Fishwire is a tool used to guide bolts and spacers through the vehicle frame rails. Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole and out the access hole, pass it through the spacer, thread the bolt into the coil, kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt, then pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole.
All 5/8" fasteners must be torqued to 180 lb-ft in Step 6 after the hitch is raised into final position.
The kit includes: 2 U-shaped spacers (3/16" x 1" x 2"), 6 square-hole spacers (3/8" x 1-1/4" x 2-1/2"), 4 carriage bolts (5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8), 4 serrated-flange nuts (5/8"-11, grade 8), 4 fishwires (5/8"), and 1 flange bolt (M8-1.25 x 25mm, CL10.9).
The installation difficulty level is rated as Easy. However, the actual time and effort may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. If a harness plug is present on the driver-side frame rail, it must be pulled out in Step 2 before installation. After the hitch is raised into position in Step 5, the harness plug is pushed into the 1" hole on the hitch plate on the driver side.
The U-shaped spacer is taped into the recess in the frame at the rearward most holes (Step 3). Two U-shaped spacers are included in the kit (item #1, 3/16" x 1" x 2").
Square-hole spacers (item #2, 3/8" x 1-1/4" x 2-1/2") are threaded onto the 5/8" carriage bolts along with fishwire in Step 4. Two spacers are fishwired through either an access hole or the end of the frame on each side, then pulled into final position in Step 5.
1. Remove ground cable (if present) and lower spare tire. 2. Pull out harness plug (if present). 3. Tape U-shaped spacers into frame recesses at rearward holes. 4. Fishwire carriage bolts and square-hole spacers through access holes on both sides. 5. Raise hitch into position, pull fishwires to final position, remove fishwires, loosely install serrated-flange nuts, reinstall ground cable and harness plug. 6. Torque all 5/8" fasteners to 180 lb-ft and raise spare tire.
No. In Step 5, the serrated-flange nuts are loosely installed after the fishwires are removed and the hitch is in final position. They are fully torqued to 180 lb-ft in Step 6.
Four carriage bolts are used (item #3, 5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8). Two are fishwired through each side of the vehicle frame in Step 4.
The carriage bolts are 5/8"-11 x 1-3/4", grade 8. Four bolts are included in the kit (item #3).
The serrated-flange nuts are 5/8"-11, grade 8. Four nuts are included in the kit (item #4) and are torqued to 180 lb-ft in the final step.
The flange bolt is M8-1.25 x 25mm, CL10.9 (item #6). One bolt is included in the kit and is used to reinstall the ground cable in Step 5.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed the vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. The manual does not specify the inspection interval.
The manual specifies that periodic inspection should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure, but does not provide a specific maintenance schedule or interval.
The CURT taillight converter (56496) is a module that converts a vehicle's taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with a 4-flat plug to vehicles that do not have a factory trailer connector. The converter interprets your vehicle's existing taillight signals (brake, turn, and tail lights) and outputs them through the 4-flat connector to power the trailer lights.
The converter is designed for SUVs, mini and full-sized vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks. The manual provides wiring location guides for three vehicle categories: SUVs/vans (S-series locations), passenger cars (P-series locations), and pickup trucks (T-series locations). However, the manual does not provide a specific year, make, or model compatibility list. Contact CURT or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
The converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Before purchasing, confirm your vehicle uses a 12-volt negative ground system. If your vehicle uses a different voltage or positive ground system, this converter will not work. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer to verify your system type.
Included with the converter: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. You must source separately: 12 gauge wire (or larger), 10-amp fuse (maximum), fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal. Alternatively, CURT part 55151 is a kit that includes these items. Tools needed: multimeter or test light for wiring identification, wire strippers, and a drill with 3/32" bit (if drilling a ground hole is necessary). A socket wrench or screwdriver may be needed to disconnect the battery terminal.
Yes. Step 3 of the installation instructions requires you to locate the vehicle battery and disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the converter. The negative terminal must remain disconnected until Step 7, after all wiring is complete and the fuse is installed. This prevents electrical shorts and damage during installation.
The manual provides a 'How to Determine Vehicle Wiring Types' procedure on page 2. With the vehicle running and all lights off, probe the taillight connectors (still connected to the vehicle) using a multimeter set to DC volts or a test light. Wires carrying less than 2 volts (or that do not illuminate a test light) are not used. Then activate each light circuit (left turn, right turn, tail, brake) one at a time and probe the remaining wires to identify which wires carry which signals. This determines whether your vehicle has a two-wire system (combined stop/turn with independent tail) or three-wire system (independent stop, turn, and tail signals). This information is essential for correctly splicing the converter wires in Step 4.
Mount the converter near the taillight. The manual provides a wiring location guide showing eight possible locations for SUVs/vans (S1–S8), seven for passenger cars (P1–P7), and five for pickup trucks (T1–T5). These locations are behind taillight housings, rear bumpers, rear access panels, or under rear floor panels, depending on vehicle type. Once you have selected the location, adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape and secure it with the included cable ties. Ensure the area is clean and dry before applying the tape.
In Step 4, use snap locks to attach the converter's input wires to the corresponding vehicle harness wires. The converter has four input wires: red (brake), yellow (left turn), green (right turn), and brown (tail). The wiring installation table on page 3 shows which converter wire splices to which vehicle wire, depending on whether your vehicle has a two-wire or three-wire system. For a two-wire system: green splices to the right stop/turn wire, yellow to the left stop/turn wire, brown to the tail wire, and red is grounded. For a three-wire system: green splices to the right turn wire, red to the stop wire, yellow to the left turn wire, and brown to the tail wire. Photos A, B, and C on page 3 show how to install the snap locks.
In Step 6, locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight. The white ground wire has a ring terminal attached. If an existing screw with nut is available in the vehicle frame, attach the ring terminal to that screw. If not, drill a 3/32" pilot hole in a clean, rust-free, paint-free area of the vehicle frame and use the provided screw to secure the ring terminal. Before drilling, check for hidden items behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route 12 gauge wire (or larger) from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery positive (+) terminal, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. At the battery, use a ring terminal (not included) to attach the wire to the positive post. Install a 10-amp fuse (maximum) in a fuse holder (not included) on this power wire, positioned as close to the battery as possible. Install the fuse only after all other wiring steps are complete. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until the fuse is installed.
In Step 7, secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. This prevents wires from moving, chafing, or becoming pinched during vehicle operation. Route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle when in use, and secure it in a convenient out-of-the-way location when not in use.
The converter is rated for a maximum of 3.0 amps per signal circuit (left turn, right turn, brake) and 6.0 amps total for tail and running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings. Also do not exceed your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not use a fuse larger than 10 amps. The fuse holder and fuse are not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit. Install the fuse after all other wiring steps are complete and immediately before reconnecting the negative battery terminal.
Use 12 gauge wire or larger to route from the converter's black power wire to the vehicle battery. This wire must be routed carefully to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. The wire is not included and must be purchased separately, or as part of CURT part 55151 kit.
The converter has four input wires: red (brake signal), yellow (left turn signal), green (right turn signal), and brown (tail/running light signal). There is also a white ground wire with a ring terminal. Each input wire is spliced to the corresponding vehicle taillight wire using snap locks, according to your vehicle's wiring type (two-wire or three-wire system). The black power wire connects to the vehicle battery positive terminal through a fused connection. The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) that may be hidden behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning any wiring work. When routing the power wire to the battery, avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. Ensure the area where you ground the converter is free of rust, dirt, and paint. Do not exceed the converter's amperage rating (3.0 amps per signal circuit, 6.0 amps total for tail/running) or your vehicle's lamp load rating, as this can cause overheating and fire. Use a 10-amp maximum fuse on the battery connection.
The manual provides two testing methods. Method 1 (test light): Attach the ground lead of the tester to the exposed ground terminal of the 4-flat connector. Activate the tow vehicle's left turn, right turn, tail, and brake lights one at a time. Probe the three receptacles of the 4-flat to confirm proper functionality. Method 2 (trailer): Mate the 4-flat with a trailer and run the same test using the trailer lights. If a function on the trailer lights does not work, disconnect the trailer 4-flat, turn the vehicle functions off, and recheck with a circuit tester. If the circuit tester shows the function is good, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter.
Included: snap locks, double-sided tape, cable ties, ground screw, and white ground wire with ring terminal. Not included: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and ring terminal for the battery connection. These items must be purchased separately or as part of CURT part 55151 kit, which is sold separately.
After securing all loose wires with cable ties and installing the fuse on the battery power wire, reinstall all items you removed during installation (trim panels, bumpers, etc.). Reconnect the negative battery terminal. When the converter is in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle. When not in use, secure the connector in a convenient out-of-the-way location to prevent damage.
The converter fits SUVs, vans, passenger cars, and pickup trucks with 12-volt negative ground systems. The manual does not provide a specific year/make/model list. Contact CURT or check a fitment database with your vehicle details to confirm compatibility.
You must source: 12 gauge wire, 10-amp fuse, fuse holder, butt connectors, and a ring terminal for the battery. These are available separately or as CURT part 55151 kit.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal in Step 3 before wiring, and keep it disconnected until the fuse is installed in Step 7.
Drilling may be required. If a suitable existing screw is not available near the taillight for grounding, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole in the vehicle frame. Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage.
Maximum 3.0 amps per signal circuit and 6.0 amps total for tail/running circuits. Do not exceed these ratings or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
Before drilling, check for hidden items (wires, fuel lines, brake lines) behind or under surfaces to avoid damage and personal injury.
Disconnect the trailer 4-flat connector from the converter. Turn off the corresponding function on the vehicle (e.g., turn off the left turn signal if the left turn on the trailer is not working). Recheck the function using a circuit tester on the 4-flat receptacles. If the circuit tester shows the function is working properly, the problem is with the trailer, not the converter. If the circuit tester shows the function is not working, the converter or vehicle wiring connection may be faulty.
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