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2025 Lincoln Lincoln
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Universal, Potted, Powered, Protected, PWM |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S3,S4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 7.5 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 5.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 2025 | Lincoln Lincoln | — |
The 25-25 Lincoln LINCOLN 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1722 (Part #HBCW1722) fits the following vehicles: 2025 Lincoln Lincoln. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 25-25 Lincoln LINCOLN 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1722 (Part #HBCW1722) is designed to fit the 2025 Lincoln Lincoln.
The 25-25 Lincoln LINCOLN 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1722 (Part #HBCW1722) fits 2025 Lincoln Lincoln models. The 2025 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 25-25 Lincoln LINCOLN 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1722 (Part #HBCW1722) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 13438 is designed for 2020-present Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
Yes, CURT part number 13438 is designed for 2020-present Lincoln Aviator and Ford Explorer SUVs. Confirm your vehicle year and model match this range before purchasing.
The CURT 13438 is rated for a maximum of 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight when used as a weight-carrying hitch. You must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Required tools are: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 7mm/10mm/21mm sockets, aviation shears, power drill with 1/4" drill bit, marker, tape measure, safety glasses, and plastic rivet gun. Using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that using proper tools will greatly improve the quality of the install and reduce the time required.
No, the CURT 13438 requires no frame drilling. It uses fishwire hardware to route fasteners through existing access holes and mounting holes on the frame.
Yes, trimming is required. You must trim the rear fascia and wire track using aviation shears. The trim diagram shows approximate dimensions of 4.75" and 3.5". All dimensions are approximate, so you must confirm fit prior to trimming. You must also remove the heat shield and wheel well fasteners to access the installation area.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust by removing one fastener on the outside of each frame rail using a 10mm socket, and remove two exhaust isolator hangers using the Rubber Isolator Removal Diagram as reference. You must support the exhaust to avoid damage during this process.
If an underbody panel is present, you must remove it by removing eight fasteners using a 10mm socket and four plastic fasteners. Set the panel aside for reinstallation after the hitch is installed.
Remove the M16 bumper bolt in the frame on each side using a 21mm socket. Return these bolts to the vehicle owner—they are not part of the hitch installation.
Fishwire two 1/2" carriage bolts and two CM-SP6 spacers into the access hole and out the mounting holes on each side. Do not reinstall the rearward most frame rail nut. Reinstall the trimmed heat shield after fishwiring the hardware.
Torque the 1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs. This is applied after raising the hitch into position.
Torque the M16 hardware to 146 ft-lbs. This is applied after raising the hitch into position.
Reinstall vehicle components using steps 1–5 in reverse order. This means reinstalling the M16 bumper bolts, wheel well fasteners and heat shield, exhaust isolator hangers and exhaust fasteners, and finally the underbody panel if it was present.
If a kick sensor is present, remove four of the six rivets using a drill along the rear fascia, starting from the driver side, to avoid damaging the kick sensor while trimming. Replacement rivets are included in the hardware kit. When raising the hitch into position, it will be positioned between the upper and lower kick sensor wires.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product.
All non-trailer loads applied to this product must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing inspection helps maintain the integrity and safety of the installation.
The kit includes: four 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/4" grade 8 carriage bolts (10-10278), four serrated flange nuts 1/2-13 UNC grade 8 (20-00062), four 0.250 x 1.00 x 3.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP6), four 1/2" fishwire (1_2 FISHWIRE), four M6 black nylon rivets (10-10401), two M16x2 35mm class 10.9 hex cap screws (10-10403), and two M16 flat washers (30-00185).
When trimming the fascia and wire track using aviation shears, move the sensor wire out of the wire track to avoid cutting it. If a kick sensor is present, remove four of the six rivets using a drill along the rear fascia, starting from the driver side, before trimming to avoid damaging the kick sensor.
Yes, the CURT 13438 is designed for 2020-present Ford Explorer and Lincoln Aviator SUVs.
The CURT 13438 is rated for 6,000 lbs trailer weight and 600 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
No, the CURT 13438 requires no frame drilling. It uses fishwire hardware through existing frame access holes.
Yes, you must trim the rear fascia and wire track using aviation shears. Approximate trim dimensions are 4.75" and 3.5", but you must confirm fit prior to trimming.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, 6" socket extension, 7mm/10mm/21mm sockets, aviation shears, power drill with 1/4" drill bit, marker, tape measure, safety glasses, and plastic rivet gun.
Torque 1/2" hardware to 75 ft-lbs and M16 hardware to 146 ft-lbs.
All non-trailer loads must be supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads voids the warranty.
Yes, you must lower the exhaust by removing one fastener on each side using a 10mm socket and remove two exhaust isolator hangers. Support the exhaust to avoid damage.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The Curt 56453 is a wiring converter system for SUVs and vans that converts factory taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It includes a powered converter module that processes left turn (yellow), right turn (green), brake (red), and taillight (brown) signals from the vehicle's existing taillights and routes them to a 4-flat connector for trailer use.
The Curt 56453 is designed for SUVs and vans with third-row seats and spare tire access in the cargo area. The manual does not specify which makes and model years are compatible. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult a fitment database to confirm compatibility with your specific vehicle.
No. The converter system is designed only for 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. It cannot be used on positive ground vehicles.
Required tools are: ratchet, 7mm socket, socket extension, flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, cutting tool, and electrical tape. Cable ties and double-sided tape are provided with the product.
The kit includes a black converter box, a 4-flat connector with dust cover, a white ground wire with ring terminal, yellow, green, brown and red signal wires, a black 12-gauge power wire with fuse holder (15-amp max), cable ties, double-sided tape, a screw for the ground connection, and a 15-amp fuse.
Yes. You must disconnect the negative battery terminal in the engine compartment on the driver side before beginning installation. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the fuse is installed.
Open the trunk and place third-row seats in the down position. Remove floor coverings to expose the spare tire. Remove trim covers from cargo tie-down points using a flathead screwdriver, then remove the cargo tie-downs using a 7mm socket. Remove the skid plate by releasing push fasteners with a panel trim removal tool and separating the hatch sensor connector. Remove side panel pockets using the panel trim removal tool.
The yellow wire (left turn signal) is routed from the converter box to the driver-side taillight housing. It is installed between the main harness and the taillight connector. The converter box itself is adhered to a flat spot inside the vehicle near the taillight where the yellow wire is routed, using the provided double-sided tape.
The green wire (right turn signal) is routed along the back of the vehicle from the driver side to the passenger side. It is installed between the main harness and the passenger-side taillight connector, following the same procedure as the yellow wire on the driver side.
Use a panel trim removal tool to loosen the sidewall panels and locate the taillight housing. Separate the existing connectors carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Install the signal wire (yellow on driver side, green on passenger side) between the main harness and the taillight. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. You must locate a suitable grounding point near the converter, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no existing point is available, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole for the provided screw. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. Always check for hidden items behind or under any surface before drilling to avoid damage and personal injury.
If a suitable existing grounding point is not available, drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint.
Signal circuits are rated at 5.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 7.5 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 15-amp maximum fuse. A fuse holder with 15-amp fuse is provided. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
The power wire is 12-gauge or larger. It is routed from the vehicle battery to the converter using butt connectors, as shown in the Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet.
Yellow = left turn signal; Green = right turn signal; Red = brake signal; Brown = taillight (running light). The white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame. The black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal.
Route the 12-gauge black power wire from the vehicle battery to the converter, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using the screw provided. Locate a suitable grounding point near the converter, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame, or drill a 3/32-inch pilot hole if necessary. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint.
When not in use, roll up the 4-flat connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location. When in use, route it to the center of the vehicle. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is especially important when drilling the 3/32-inch pilot hole for the ground wire connection.
Once the 12-volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Do not install the fuse until all other steps are complete.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion when the connector is not in use.
The Curt 56453 is designed for SUVs and vans with third-row seats and spare tire access. It requires a 12-volt negative ground electrical system. Confirm your specific vehicle make and model with Curt Manufacturing or a fitment database.
You need a ratchet, 7mm socket, socket extension, flathead screwdriver, panel trim removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, cutting tool, and electrical tape. Cable ties and double-sided tape are included.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Reconnect it only after all steps are complete and the 15-amp fuse is installed.
The battery connection must use a 15-amp maximum fuse. A fuse holder with 15-amp fuse is provided. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
Yellow = left turn, Green = right turn, Red = brake, Brown = taillight, White = ground, Black = power. The 12-gauge black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire, test the harness with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer before installing the fuse.
First, verify that the 15-amp fuse is installed in the fuse holder. Check that all wire connections are fully inserted with locking tabs in place at both the driver-side and passenger-side taillight connectors. Ensure the white ground wire ring terminal is securely attached to the vehicle frame and the black power wire is properly connected to the positive battery terminal. Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to identify which circuits are not working. Inspect all wires for visible damage or loose connections.
The yellow wire (left turn signal) may not be properly installed between the main harness and the driver-side taillight connector. Verify that the yellow wire is fully inserted and the connector locking tabs are in place. Check that the converter box is securely mounted with double-sided tape near the driver-side taillight. Inspect the yellow wire for visible damage. Test the circuit with a test light to confirm signal presence.
The green wire (right turn signal) may not be properly installed between the main harness and the passenger-side taillight connector. Verify that the green wire is fully inserted and the connector locking tabs are in place. Check that the green wire is properly routed along the back of the vehicle from the driver side to the passenger side without kinks or damage. Inspect the wire for visible damage and test the circuit with a test light.
The red brake wire may not be properly connected in the converter system. If the converter is being used as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded. Verify that all connections at the taillight connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Check that the white ground wire is securely attached to the vehicle frame. Test the brake circuit with a test light.
The product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating is being exceeded. Verify that the total electrical load does not exceed 5.0 amps per side for signal circuits or 7.5 amps total for tail and running circuits. Ensure the 15-amp fuse is the correct rating and is properly installed. Check that the battery connection is secure and there are no short circuits in the wiring. If the fuse continues to blow, discontinue use and contact the manufacturer.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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