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| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2-1/2 IN |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 20,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 20,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 2,700 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 2,700 LB |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | T3 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 7-Way RV Blade |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1973 - 1997 | Ford | Cab & chassis with 34" frame width (O.D.) |
Yes, the 73-97 Ford Cab & chassis with 34" frame width (O.D.) 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW897 (Part #HBCW897) is designed to fit the 1973-1997 Ford .
The 73-97 Ford Cab & chassis with 34" frame width (O.D.) 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW897 (Part #HBCW897) fits the following vehicles: 1973-1997 Ford . Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 73-97 Ford Cab & chassis with 34" frame width (O.D.) 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW897 (Part #HBCW897) fits 1973-1997 Ford models. The 1997 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 73-97 Ford Cab & chassis with 34" frame width (O.D.) 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW897 (Part #HBCW897) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT part number 15802 is designed for 2017-Present Ford F-250, F-350, and F-450 pickup trucks. Confirm your truck model year is 2017 or newer and matches one of these three models.
When used as a weight-carrying hitch, the CURT 15802 supports a maximum trailer weight of 20,000 lbs and tongue weight of 2,700 lbs. When used as a weight-distribution hitch, it also supports 20,000 lbs trailer weight and 2,700 lbs tongue weight. However, you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower.
Yes, the CURT 15802 requires the factory bumper to be present. The installation notes explicitly state "REQUIRES FACTORY BUMPER."
You will need: a ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4" socket, 15/16" socket, 24mm socket, and 15/16" open-end wrench. A 21mm socket is also needed for temporary removal of the spare tire, which is recommended to ease installation.
The kit includes: 6 carriage bolts 5/8-11 UNC 1-3/4" (part 10-10292), 6 square hole spacers 0.375 x 1.25 x 2.50" (part CM-SP9), 2 hex head cap screws 5/8-11 UNC 1-3/4" (part 10-10296), 8 serrated flange nuts 5/8-11 UNC (part 20-00105), 2 flat washers 5/8" (part 30-00204), 2 lock washers 5/8" (part 30-00132), 4 hex head cap screws 1/2-13 UNC 1-3/4" (part 10-10370), 4 serrated flange nuts 1/2-13 UNC (part 20-00062), and 4 conical tooth washers 1/2" (part 30-00149).
No, drilling is not required. The installation notes explicitly state "NO DRILLING REQUIRED." The hitch aligns with existing holes in the frame.
Temporary removal of the spare tire is recommended to ease installation. A 21mm socket will be needed to remove it. The spare tire carriage beam is involved in the installation process, particularly in step 3 where a 5/8" hex flange nut is slid from the end of the frame under the spare tire carriage beam.
Two people may be required to ease installation. The manual states "TO EASE INSTALLATION, 2 PEOPLE MAY BE REQUIRED," indicating it is possible but not strictly necessary for one person to complete the installation alone.
1. Position the hitch against the frame, aligning the holes in the hitch with the holes in the frame, and take note of fastener locations before lowering the hitch. 2. Place a carriage bolt and spacer into each bolt location from inside the frame rail. 3. Raise the hitch into position and secure it to the frame rails using hex flange nuts. Under the spare tire carriage beam, slide a 5/8" hex flange nut from the end of the frame and install the 5/8" hex bolt, lock washer, and flat washer. 4. Place the 1/2" hex bolts and conical tooth washers into position and install 1/2" hex flange nuts. 5. Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft and all 5/8" hardware to 212 lb-ft.
All 1/2" hardware on the CURT 15802 must be torqued to 110 lb-ft.
All 5/8" hardware on the CURT 15802 must be torqued to 212 lb-ft.
Safety glasses should be worn at all times while installing this product. Additionally, never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity when using the hitch.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is important for safe operation.
The hitch weight is 50 lbs.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace it at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, the CURT 15802 is designed for 2017-Present Ford F-250, F-350, and F-450 pickup trucks and requires the factory bumper.
You need a ratchet, torque wrench, 3/4", 15/16", 24mm, and 21mm sockets, and a 15/16" open-end wrench.
No, no drilling is required. The hitch aligns with existing frame holes.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 lb-ft and all 5/8" hardware to 212 lb-ft.
The hitch supports 20,000 lbs trailer weight and 2,700 lbs tongue weight, but you must never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 56443 is designed for trucks with factory connectors located on the driver-side frame rail or rear-most cross member. Check your vehicle's frame rail and rear cross member for existing connectors that match the appearance of those shown in the manual. If your truck has these factory connectors, the harness is compatible. If you cannot locate matching connectors, your vehicle may not be equipped for this product.
Part 56443 is a custom wiring harness that connects to a 7-way RV blade connector for trailer lighting and braking functions. It routes from the vehicle's factory connectors to a round USCAR plug that mounts to the vehicle, allowing you to connect a trailer with compatible wiring.
You need a flathead screwdriver. Cable ties are also recommended to secure loose wires during routing. A test light, 7-way RV blade tester, or functioning trailer is required to verify proper function after installation.
Yes. Before beginning installation, locate your vehicle's battery in the engine compartment (typically on the passenger side for most gas engines, and on both sides for some gas engines and all diesel engines) and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation.
The factory connectors are located on the driver-side frame rail or the rear-most cross member of your vehicle. They will resemble the connectors included with your new custom wiring harness. Separate these connectors from their dust covers carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs.
Route the harness to the 7-way mounting location on your vehicle. Install the round USCAR plug into the 7-way RV blade connector and mount it to the vehicle. Use cable ties as needed to secure any loose wires along the route. Once mounted, reconnect the negative battery terminal if it was disconnected.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness and reconnecting the battery, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 7-way RV blade tester, or a functioning trailer. This confirms all connections are working properly before towing.
Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Consult your vehicle's owner's manual and the product documentation for the specific rating of part 56443.
If your vehicle is not factory equipped with trailer brakes, you must consult your vehicle's owner's manual to verify that your vehicle can utilize components and wiring for the trailer braking function. The owner's manual will also specify any fuses that need to be installed. Do not assume your vehicle supports trailer braking without checking the owner's manual first.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Regular maintenance helps prevent electrical failures and ensures safe trailer operation.
The manual provides a wiring location guide for trucks with five reference points: T1 (behind driver side taillight housing), T2 (behind passenger side taillight housing), T3 (behind driver side rear bumper), T4 (behind center of rear bumper fascia), and T5 (behind passenger side rear bumper). These locations help you route the harness correctly during installation.
Part 56443 fits trucks with factory connectors on the driver-side frame rail or rear-most cross member. Check your vehicle for these connectors before purchasing.
You need a flathead screwdriver, cable ties, and a test light or 7-way RV blade tester to verify function after installation.
Yes, disconnect the negative battery terminal before starting installation. Fasten the wire down and away from the battery during the installation process.
Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. If your vehicle lacks factory trailer brakes, verify in the owner's manual that your vehicle can use trailer braking components.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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