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| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 2,400 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 16,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 17,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 2,400 LB |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | T3 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1973 - 1999 | Ford | Old body, excluding 10" drop bumper and 73: 79 crew cab |
The 73-99 Ford Old body, excluding 10" drop bumper and 73-79 crew cab 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW875 (Part #HBCW875) fits the following vehicles: 1973-1999 Ford . Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 73-99 Ford Old body, excluding 10" drop bumper and 73-79 crew cab 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW875 (Part #HBCW875) is designed to fit the 1973-1999 Ford .
The 73-99 Ford Old body, excluding 10" drop bumper and 73-79 crew cab 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW875 (Part #HBCW875) fits 1973-1999 Ford models. The 1999 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 73-99 Ford Old body, excluding 10" drop bumper and 73-79 crew cab 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW875 (Part #HBCW875) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, the Curt 15300 fits 1973–92 Ford F-Series trucks. Your 1985 F-150 is within this range. Installation requires lowering the spare tire and drilling six holes in the frame: two for 9/16" hardware and four for 1/2" hardware.
Yes, the Curt 15300 fits 1993–97 Ford F-Series trucks, which includes the 1995 F-250. Installation involves using the hitch slot as a guide over the stock rivet, checking for existing 1/4" holes that may need enlargement to 9/16", and drilling additional 1/2" holes.
Yes, the Curt 15300 fits 1978–97 Ford Bronco Full Size. Installation requires lowering the spare tire, drilling six holes (two for 9/16" hardware, four for 1/2" hardware), and using fishwire hardware on the two forward holes on each side due to tight gas tank clearance. If the bumper interferes, loosen and reposition it upward.
Yes, the Curt 15300 fits 1967–02 Dodge Full Size trucks, which includes the 1990 Dodge Ram. Installation involves enlarging existing 1/2" round holes at the rear of the frame to 9/16", installing 9/16" bolts, then drilling four additional 1/2" holes and installing 1/2" bolts. If the bumper interferes, loosen and reposition it upward.
No. The Curt 15300 is designed for 1967–02 Dodge Full Size trucks only. Your 2005 Dodge is outside this range and requires a different hitch model. Contact Curt Manufacturing technical support at 1-877-287-8634 for the correct part number for your vehicle.
If the bumper interferes with the receiver hitch on a 1978–97 Ford Bronco or 1967–02 Dodge Full Size, loosen the bumper brackets and reposition the bumper upward, then retighten the brackets.
Required tools are: torque wrench, ratchet, 9" extension, drill, center punch, 3/4" socket, 7/8" socket, and safety glasses.
The kit includes: four 1/2"-13 UNC carriage bolts (part 10-10288), two 9/16"-12 UNC carriage bolts (part 10-10328), four 1/2" flange nuts (part 20-00062), two 9/16" flange nuts (part 20-00104), six .250 × 1.50 × 2.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP1), two .313 × 1.50 × 2.00" 9/16" square hole spacers (part CM-SP71), four 1/2" fishwire (part 1_2 FISHWIRE), and two 9/16" fishwire (part 9_16 FISHWIRE).
Yes. For all vehicle models (1973–92 Ford, 1993–97 Ford, 1978–97 Ford Bronco, and 1967–02 Dodge), the spare tire must be lowered before installation begins.
Professional installation takes approximately 30 minutes. DIY installation for a novice takes approximately 60 minutes.
Yes, drilling is required. The number and size of holes depends on your vehicle model. For 1973–92 Ford and 1978–97 Bronco, you drill six holes: two for 9/16" hardware and four for 1/2" hardware. For 1993–97 Ford, some models have existing 1/4" holes that may need enlargement to 9/16", plus additional 1/2" holes. For 1967–02 Dodge, you enlarge existing 1/2" round holes to 9/16" and drill four additional 1/2" holes.
Drill two rearmost holes to accommodate 9/16" hardware and four forward-most holes to accommodate 1/2" hardware. Use the large hole in the hitch as a guide, place the slot over the stock rivet on each side of the frame, center the hitch, and mark all six holes before drilling.
Yes. On 1978–97 Ford Bronco Full Size, the two forward holes on each side must be fishwired due to tight clearance with the gas tank. Feed the bolts through the frame access hole located next to the cross member. Take extra care around the gas tank when drilling.
1. Use the large slot in the hitch as a guide and place it over the stock rivet on each side of the frame. 2. Check if the rearmost holes in the hitch line up with small 1/4" holes in the vehicle frame. If yes, drill these out to 9/16"; if no, follow the 1973–92 Ford instructions. 3. Place 9/16" carriage bolts and square hole spacers through the frame in the drilled holes. 4. Raise the hitch over the bolts and secure with flange nuts, hand-tightening only. 5. Center the hitch and drill the remaining 1/2" holes using the hitch as a guide. The hitch must have 3 bolts on each side or failure may result. 6. Install 1/2" carriage bolts and square hole spacers in remaining holes and secure with flange nuts.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs. Torque all 9/16" hardware to 130 ft-lbs.
The hitch weight is 52 lbs.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The Curt 15300 hitch itself does not set the towing limit; your vehicle's manufacturer specifications do.
The hitch must have 3 bolts on each side or failure may result. This is a structural requirement for safe operation.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound.
Curt Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, Curt Manufacturing may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse, or improper installation voids the warranty. Curt Manufacturing's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
The Curt 15300 fits 1973–92 Ford F-Series, 1993–97 Ford F-Series, 1978–97 Ford Bronco Full Size, and 1967–02 Dodge Full Size trucks.
Yes, drilling is required. The number and size of holes varies by vehicle model: 1973–92 Ford and 1978–97 Bronco require six holes (two 9/16", four 1/2"); 1993–97 Ford may have existing 1/4" holes to enlarge plus additional 1/2" holes; 1967–02 Dodge requires enlarging existing 1/2" holes to 9/16" and drilling four additional 1/2" holes.
Required tools: torque wrench, ratchet, 9" extension, drill, center punch, 3/4" socket, 7/8" socket, and safety glasses.
Torque all 1/2" hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all 9/16" hardware to 130 ft-lbs.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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