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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LBS |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | Blank |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1979 - 1983 | Toyota Corolla | Wagon |
The 79-83 Toyota Corolla Wagon FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2378 (Part #HBCW2378) fits 1979-1983 Toyota Corolla models. The 1983 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 79-83 Toyota Corolla Wagon FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2378 (Part #HBCW2378) is designed to fit the 1979-1983 Toyota Corolla.
The 79-83 Toyota Corolla Wagon FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2378 (Part #HBCW2378) fits the following vehicles: 1979-1983 Toyota Corolla. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 79-83 Toyota Corolla Wagon FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2378 (Part #HBCW2378) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The manual does not specify the vehicle make, model, or year. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your vehicle.
The CURT 11637 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: ratchet, torque wrench, paint marker or masking tape, utility knife or aviation shears, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, tape measure, flathead screwdriver, and Phillips screwdriver. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
The kit includes 8 hex head cap screws (M8) and 8 conical-toothed washers (3/8"). These fasteners are used to secure the hitch to the vehicle frame.
Installation requires removal of both taillights, the bumper beam (8 bolts), and the bumper cover. The bumper cover fascia must also be trimmed. Mudguards, if present, must be removed.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for guidance on electrical safety before beginning installation.
Open the rear hatch and use a 10mm socket to remove two screws from each taillight. Carefully slide each taillight rearward—it will make a snap sound when removed. Unplug the electrical connectors and set the taillights aside.
Remove four 10mm socket screws and two Phillips head screws from the bumper cover in the hatch area (Step 2). Remove mudguards if present (Step 3). Remove five plastic push rivets from each side in the wheel well area using a flathead screwdriver (Step 4). Pull the bumper cover outward to peel the wheel well liner to the tire for hand access. Remove the plastic push rivet at the top of the bumper cover on each side (Step 5). Unplug any electrical components. Finally, use a 12mm socket to remove the eight bolts securing the bumper beam (Step 6).
Place the hitch into position aligning with the bumper beam holes. Loosely install the supplied M8 bolts and conical washers as shown in the assembly diagram. Do not fully tighten at this stage.
Torque all M8 fasteners to 23 ft-lbs.
No drilling is required. The hitch aligns with existing bumper beam holes. However, trimming of the bumper cover fascia is required.
Measure and mark the center area of the fascia: 3 inches from each side and 2-5/8 inches from the top, with a 1-5/8 inch height. Before cutting, verify there are no electrical components in the marked area. After trimming, hold the bumper cover in position to check if further trimming is required.
Use a utility knife or aviation shears to trim the bumper cover fascia.
The manual instructs you to measure and mark the center area of the fascia before cutting and to be sure there are not electric components in the marked area. If you are unsure whether electrical components are present, contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 or consult your vehicle's service manual.
Reinstall the bumper cover by reversing the removal steps. Reconnect any electrical components removed earlier. Reinstall the mudguards and taillights.
Wear safety glasses at all times while installing this product. Before trimming the bumper cover fascia, verify there are no electrical components in the marked cutting area. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Verify all M8 fasteners are torqued to 23 ft-lbs.
The manual states that periodic inspection should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure, but does not specify an inspection interval. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for recommended inspection frequency.
The manual does not specify a retorque interval. Contact CURT product support at 877.287.8634 for guidance on retorque schedules.
The Curt 56479 is a powered converter lead that converts your vehicle's factory taillight wiring to a 4-flat trailer connector. It allows you to connect a trailer with functioning lights to your passenger car without requiring permanent modifications to the vehicle's electrical system.
The Curt 56479 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not provide a specific vehicle compatibility list. Contact Curt Manufacturing or consult your vehicle's owner's manual to confirm compatibility with your specific make, model and year.
The manual specifies that the Curt 56479 is designed for passenger cars. The wiring location guide provided is for passenger cars only. Compatibility with trucks, SUVs or other body styles is not addressed in the manual. Contact the manufacturer to confirm fitment on your vehicle type.
You will need: ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, cutting tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, electrical tape, and a 3/32" drill bit (if drilling a ground hole). A fish wire or equivalent (cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string) is also required to route wiring through blind holes.
The kit includes: a black converter box, yellow, green, white, red and brown wires, a 4-flat dust cover, double-sided tape, zip ties, a ground screw, a ring terminal, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, and butt connectors. The manual does not specify the exact quantity of each item.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. The battery must remain disconnected until Step 9, when you reconnect the negative terminal after all other work is complete.
The installation is rated as 'Easy'. However, the manual notes that installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, the condition of the vehicle, and whether proper tools and equipment are available.
Open the rear hatch and locate the taillight fasteners on the driver side. Using a 10mm socket, remove the two bolts in the taillight trim. Then pull the taillight straight back. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors, which will be similar to those on the custom wiring product. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Set the taillight aside in a safe place. Repeat this process on the passenger side.
Fish wiring is a technique to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Make sure the wire is long enough to stick out on the other side. Insert the fish wire through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. Fish wire can be anything from a cut-up wire hanger, stiff wire, rope or string depending on what is needed.
Route a fish wire down between the bumper cover in the further rear opening of the bumper cover and the body of the vehicle. Repeat on the other side. Connect the yellow wire to the fish wire and pull up to the factory harness connector. Insert the custom wiring end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place.
Route the housing with the green wire above the bumper mount and along the back side of the bumper to the passenger side of the vehicle. Zip tie as needed along the bumper.
Not necessarily. On the driver side, locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no suitable existing fastener is available, you may drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to remove rust and paint. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
If you need to drill a ground hole, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. This hole is for securing the white ground wire with the ring terminal using the provided ground screw.
Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. This is a critical safety step to prevent hitting hidden wiring, fuel lines, brake lines or other components.
Signal circuits: 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts in the taillight trim on each side of the vehicle.
Yellow = Left turn, Green = Right turn, Red = Brake, Brown = Taillight. These wires connect to the corresponding circuits in your vehicle's taillight system.
Route a 12-gauge wire or larger to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. Use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges when passing through sheet metal. Connect the black wire to the positive battery terminal (+) using a ring terminal. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Install the fuse after all other steps are complete. Do not lay tools across the positive battery terminal, as this can cause a ground short, resulting in sparks and/or electrical shocks.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the battery to the converter.
Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire to the vehicle body using an existing screw or bolt in the frame, or using the provided ground screw in a 3/32" hole if necessary. The area should be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it.
If using the converter as a powered module for a two-wire system, the red brake wire must be grounded.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The product has the following electrical ratings: Signal circuits 3.0 amps per side, and Tail/Running circuits 6.0 amps total. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
No. The Curt 56479 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
Once the custom harness is installed, verify that it is functioning by attaching the 4-flat connector to any trailer with functioning lights. You can also test for proper function using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer.
Reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected at the beginning, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the 4-flat to any trailer with functioning lights.
Install the 10-amp fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Do not install the fuse until the power wire is fully routed, connected and secured.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
The provided 4-flat dust cover helps prevent corrosion of the connector. Install it after completing the installation.
The Curt 56479 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not provide a specific vehicle compatibility list. Contact Curt Manufacturing or your vehicle manufacturer to confirm fitment.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until Step 9, when you reconnect it after all other work is complete.
Drilling is not always required. You can use an existing screw or bolt in the vehicle frame for the ground connection. If no suitable fastener exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Use 12-gauge wire or larger for the power connection from the battery to the converter.
The Curt 56479 is designed for 12-volt negative ground systems only. It is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems.
Periodically inspect all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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