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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LBS |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Material | THERMOPLASTIC RUBBER |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| T-Connector Location | P1,P2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| 29 | Pin |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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Call 888-634-9494The 84-87 HONDA Hatchback, CRX only FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1339 (Part #HBCW1339) fits the following vehicles: 1984-1987 Honda . Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 84-87 HONDA Hatchback, CRX only FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1339 (Part #HBCW1339) is designed to fit the 1984-1987 Honda .
The 84-87 HONDA Hatchback, CRX only FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1339 (Part #HBCW1339) fits 1984-1987 Honda models. The 1987 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 84-87 HONDA Hatchback, CRX only FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1339 (Part #HBCW1339) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 11591 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 200 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Yes. Installation of the CURT 11591 requires trimming of the rear bumper and fascia panel. You will need to use a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to remove part of the bumper on both ends to avoid interference, and cut a 4" × 2-1/2" opening in the center of the bumper fascia.
Required tools are: torque wrench, tape measure, 12mm socket, 13mm socket, Phillips screwdriver, flathead screwdriver, 6" socket extension, paint marker, 5mm Allen wrench, cut-off wheel, die grinder, and safety glasses. A tools reference guide is available at curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
Installation is rated as Difficult. Difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on installer expertise, vehicle condition, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Yes. You must remove the entire rear bumper, which is secured by eight bolts. The bumper is then repositioned and secured to the hitch using the provided M8 hex bolts and conical-toothed washers. You must also remove the bumper fascia panel before removing the bumper.
Open the trunk and remove two hex screws securing the fascia using a 5mm Allen wrench (one on each side). For 2022 models and newer, remove the taillight finish plate and use a 10mm socket to remove the fastener on each side. Then use Phillips and flathead screwdrivers to remove screws and plastic rivets. Gently pull the fascia up from the rear wheel trim panel, work up to the taillights, and continue along the bottom of the taillights to the trunk bottom. Remove the panel and set it aside.
All M8 hex bolts securing the hitch and bumper must be tightened to 16 lb-ft using a torque wrench and 13mm socket.
The kit includes 8 hex bolts (M8-1.25 × 35mm, CL8.8) and 8 conical-toothed washers (3/8"). These are used to secure the bumper and hitch assembly to the vehicle frame.
The conical-toothed washers must be installed between the hex bolts and the vehicle frame, with the toothed side facing the frame to provide a secure grip.
Cut a 4" × 2-1/2" opening in the center of the bumper fascia. Start in the center of the vehicle and work outward when reinstalling the fascia.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Use a torque wrench to verify that all bolts remain at 16 lb-ft.
The manual does not specify vehicle make, model, or year compatibility. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or visit curtmfg.com to confirm fitment for your vehicle.
No. A die grinder with cut-off wheel is required but not included. You must provide this tool to trim the bumper during installation.
Set your torque wrench to 16 lb-ft. All eight M8 hex bolts must be tightened to this specification using a 13mm socket.
Installation is rated as Difficult and requires bumper removal, trimming, and use of specialized tools including a die grinder. Consider professional installation based on your skill level and available tools.
Gross trailer weight capacity is 2,000 lbs with a 200 lb tongue weight limit. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
The Curt 56508 is designed for passenger cars (sedans and hatchbacks) with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system is 12-volt negative ground. The product accesses wiring through taillight housings in the trunk, so your vehicle must have accessible taillight connectors from the trunk area.
No. The Curt 56508 converter is designed only for 12-volt negative ground systems. It cannot be used on 24-volt systems or positive ground systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm your electrical system voltage and ground type before purchasing.
You will need: ratchet, wire cutter, 10mm socket, crimp tool, large Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, and panel trim removal tool. These tools are required to disconnect the battery, remove taillight fasteners and trim covers, separate connectors, and crimp wire connections.
The manual confirms the product includes: yellow, brown, red, and green wires for taillight circuits; white ground wire with ring terminal; black power wire; converter box; double-sided tape; cable ties; 4-flat connector dust cover; ground screw; and a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse. A separate 'Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet' provides details on the power lead assembly.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to locate the vehicle battery, disconnect the negative battery terminal, and fasten this wire down and away from the battery. The negative battery terminal must remain disconnected until all other installation steps are complete and you are ready to test the system.
No. The installation requires you to remove both taillights to access the factory wiring connectors. Step 3 requires removing the taillight by pulling it out sideways from the vehicle, locating the taillight wiring harness, and separating the connectors from the taillight housing.
The manual specifies using a fish wire technique. Insert the fish wire through the cavity below the taillight housing and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness (yellow, brown, and red wires) to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around, or twist the wire to loosen it. The green wire is routed along the back of the bumper to the passenger side using the same method.
Mount the converter box under the driver side of the vehicle on a flat spot on the body or frame using the provided double-sided tape and/or cable ties. The manual specifies this location in Step 6.
Locate a grounding point such as an existing screw or bolt in the frame of the vehicle. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint—use an abrasive pad or paper to clean it. Secure the white ground wire with its ring terminal on the existing fastener or with the provided ground screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
The wire colors are: Green = Right turn; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn; Brown = Taillight. These wires are routed from the taillight connectors to the converter box. The black power wire connects to the positive battery terminal, and the white ground wire connects to the vehicle frame or body.
Drilling may be required for the ground wire connection. If no existing screw or bolt is available as a grounding point on the vehicle frame, you must drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, you must check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury. The power wire routing may also require drilling if passing through sheet metal without an existing grommet.
Drill a 3/32" pilot hole if no existing screw or bolt is available as a grounding point. The area must be free from rust, dirt, and paint before drilling. Use an abrasive pad or paper to clean the area.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp max fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire. The fuse holder with 10-amp fuse is included and must be installed after all other steps are complete.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter. The manual specifies routing 12 GA wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. This prevents the wire insulation from being damaged by the metal edges.
The signal circuits (left turn, right turn) are rated for 3.0 amps per side. The tail/running circuits are rated for 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed these ratings or the product rating, whichever is lower than the tow vehicle lamp load rating.
The tail/running circuits are rated for 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed this rating or the product rating, whichever is lower than the tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. The manual does not specify a numeric maximum load rating; you must check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for the tow vehicle lamp load rating.
Route the 12 GA power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid any pinch points and hot or rotating components. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect it from sharp edges. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual specifies this verification step before final reconnection of the negative battery terminal.
After installation, reinstall all items removed during installation. If the negative battery terminal was disconnected, reconnect it. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. Test the system with a test light, 4-flat tester, or functioning trailer to verify proper operation. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. This helps maintain proper function and prevent electrical issues.
The Curt 56508 is designed for passenger cars (sedans and hatchbacks) with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system in your owner's manual and that taillight connectors are accessible from the trunk.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and keep it disconnected until all wiring is complete and you are ready to test the system.
The maximum fuse rating is 10 amps. Exceeding this can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Use 12 GA (12-gauge) wire or larger for the power connection from the vehicle battery to the converter.
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1984 - 1987 | Honda | Hatchback, CRX only |
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