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1987 - 1991 Toyota 4Runner
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| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 1-1/4 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 200 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 2,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | P3,P4 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected and Powered |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1987 - 1991 | Toyota 4Runner | — |
The 87-91 Toyota 4Runner 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2353 (Part #HBCW2353) fits the following vehicles: 1987-1991 Toyota 4Runner. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
Yes, the 87-91 Toyota 4Runner 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2353 (Part #HBCW2353) is designed to fit the 1987-1991 Toyota 4Runner.
The 87-91 Toyota 4Runner 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2353 (Part #HBCW2353) fits 1987-1991 Toyota 4Runner models. The 1991 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 87-91 Toyota 4Runner 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2353 (Part #HBCW2353) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, CURT 11576 fits 2018-present Toyota Camry Sedans. The hitch is designed specifically for this model and is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight of 200 lbs. Always verify your vehicle's year and body style (sedan) matches before purchasing.
Yes, CURT 11576 fits 2019-present Toyota Avalon Sedans. The hitch is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and tongue weight of 200 lbs. Confirm your vehicle year is 2019 or newer and the body style is sedan.
Yes, CURT 11576 fits both Japan-built and USA-built vehicles, but the installation steps differ. Japan-built vehicles have existing M12 weldnuts on the frame and require removal of a tie-down bracket from the passenger side frame rail. USA-built vehicles have existing M8 weldnuts and require removal of the rear exhaust hanger from the driver side frame rail. Dual exhaust USA-built vehicles require removal of rear exhaust hangers from both frame rails.
CURT 11576 is designed for use with ball mount #45521. Euro mount options are also available: #45571 (1 7/8" ball) and #45572 (2" ball). Verify the correct ball mount is selected for your towing application.
CURT 11576 is rated for a maximum trailer weight of 2,000 lbs and a tongue weight of 200 lbs when used as a weight-carrying hitch. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity, which may be lower than the hitch rating.
Non-trailer (wheel-less) loads can be applied to CURT 11576 only if they are supported by CURT 18050 stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support non-trailer loads will void the product warranty. Contact CURT at www.curtmfg.com or 877-287-8634 for information on the 18050 stabilizing straps.
Required tools are: 10mm, 12mm, and 13mm sockets; 17mm and 19mm sockets; ratchet; torque wrench; die grinder with cutoff wheel; rotary tool; masking tape; safety glasses; and tape measure. Using proper tools will greatly improve installation quality and reduce installation time.
CURT 11576 includes: 2× 1/2-13 UNC carriage bolts, 1-1/2" grade 8 (part 10-10287); 2× M12×1.25 hex head cap screws, 45mm class 10.9 (part 10-10331); 4× M8×1.25 flange bolts, 35mm class 10.9 (part 10-10333); 2× 1/2-13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062); 2× 1/2" split-cone washers (part 30-00149); 2× 0.250 × 1.00 × 2.50" square hole spacers (part CM-SP10); and 2× 1/2" fishwires (part 1_2 FISHWIRE).
Two people may be required to ease installation. If you are hesitant to undertake this task on your own, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Installation difficulty is rated as moderate. The installation requires exhaust hanger removal, heat shield and underbody panel trimming, access hole enlargement, and torque specifications. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer.
No drilling is required. However, access hole enlargement is required on both frame rails, and trimming of heat shields and the plastic underbody panel is required. A die grinder with cutoff wheel is needed for these modifications.
Two types of trimming are required: (1) Heat shield trimming using the heat shield trim diagram as reference, with dimensions of 4.25 inches and 2.00 inches marked; (2) Plastic underbody panel trimming using the panel trim diagram as reference, with dimensions of 3.25 inches and 1.00 inches marked. Both heat shields and the underbody panel must be reinstalled after trimming. A die grinder with cutoff wheel is recommended for these cuts.
Step 3 requires enlargement of the existing access hole in both frame rails. The exact dimensions for the enlarged hole are not specified in the manual. After enlargement, a 1/2" fishwire (carriage bolt) and CM-SP10 spacer are inserted into each enlarged access hole. Contact CURT technical support at 877-287-8634 for specific hole size requirements.
You do not need to remove the entire exhaust system, but you must lower it. Remove (2) rubber isolators per muffler and (1) rubber isolator forward of the muffler. On Japan-built vehicles, also remove the tie-down bracket from the passenger side frame rail. On USA-built vehicles, remove the rear exhaust hanger from the driver side frame rail. On dual exhaust vehicles, remove rear exhaust hangers from both frame rails. Support the exhaust to prevent damage during this process. Save all removed parts for reinstallation.
Three different torque specifications apply: M12 hardware (hex head cap screws) must be torqued to 79 ft-lbs; M8 hardware (flange bolts) must be torqued to 23 ft-lbs; 1/2" hardware (carriage bolts) must be torqued to 110 ft-lbs. A torque wrench is required to achieve these specifications.
Follow these steps in order: (1) Lower the exhaust by removing rubber isolators and exhaust hangers as applicable to your vehicle's origin (Japan or USA built) and exhaust configuration (single or dual). Support the exhaust to prevent damage. (2) Remove and trim heat shields and plastic underbody panel using the provided diagrams, then reinstall. (3) Enlarge the access holes in both frame rails and insert the 1/2" fishwire carriage bolts with CM-SP10 spacers. (4) Raise the hitch into position, secure with provided hardware while reinstalling exhaust hangers, apply torque specifications, and reinstall the underbody panel.
Yes. The plastic underbody panel must be removed in step 2 to allow access for trimming using the panel trim diagram as reference. After trimming, the panel is reinstalled. The panel is removed again in step 4 after the hitch is secured and then reinstalled.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times while installing this product. Support the exhaust to prevent damage when lowering it. Before beginning installation, read all instructions thoroughly. If you are hesitant to undertake this task, contact an authorized CURT installer for additional assistance.
Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. CURT 11576 is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight, but your vehicle's manufacturer may specify a lower limit. Check your vehicle's owner manual or manufacturer specifications to determine the safe towing capacity for your specific vehicle.
After installation, periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This maintenance is essential for safe operation and to maintain the product warranty.
The manual states to periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound, but does not specify an exact inspection interval. Regular inspection before towing is recommended as a best practice.
CURT Manufacturing warrants this product to be free of defects in material and/or workmanship at the time of retail purchase by the original purchaser. If the product is found to be defective, CURT may repair or replace the product at their option when returned prepaid with proof of purchase. Alteration to, misuse of, or improper installation voids the warranty. CURT's liability is limited to repair or replacement of defective products and excludes liability for incidental or consequential loss or damage.
Yes, CURT 11576 fits 2018-present Toyota Camry Sedans and 2019-present Toyota Avalon Sedans. Maximum towing capacity is 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight.
Required tools: 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets; ratchet; torque wrench; die grinder with cutoff wheel; rotary tool; masking tape; safety glasses; tape measure.
M12 hardware: 79 ft-lbs; M8 hardware: 23 ft-lbs; 1/2" hardware: 110 ft-lbs. A torque wrench is required.
CURT 11576 is rated for 2,000 lbs trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Periodically check that all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. This maintains the warranty and ensures safe operation.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The CURT 56416 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm it has a 12-volt negative ground system. The product is not compatible with 24-volt systems or positive ground systems. If you are unsure, contact the vehicle manufacturer or CURT customer support with your vehicle's year, make, and model.
The CURT 56416 is a powered converter wiring harness that converts vehicle taillight signals to a 4-flat trailer connector. It includes a converter box that processes left turn (yellow wire), right turn (green wire), brake (red wire), and taillight (brown wire) signals from your vehicle's taillights and outputs them to a standard 4-flat connector for towing.
You will need: ratchet, cutting tool, 10 mm socket, electrical tape, wire crimper, panel trim removal tool, and wire stripper. These tools are required to disconnect the battery, remove interior trim panels, access wiring connectors, and prepare and connect the wiring harness.
The kit includes: a converter box with wiring harness (yellow, green, red, and brown wires), a black power wire with ring terminal, a white ground wire with ring terminal, double-sided tape for mounting the converter, cable ties for securing wires, a 4-flat dust cover, a fuse holder with 10-amp fuse, a screw for the ground connection, and butt connectors. The 4-flat connector itself is part of the harness.
Yes. Step 1 requires you to disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation. Fasten the disconnected wire down and away from the battery. Reconnect it only after all other installation steps are complete and you have verified the harness is functioning.
Open the trunk and remove all trunk floor coverings to expose the spare tire. You will also need to remove the rear scuff panel using a panel trim removal tool to access the taillight wiring connectors on both sides. Take care not to damage the alignment tabs on the back of the scuff panel when removing it.
Locate the taillight wiring connectors behind each taillight housing (driver side first, then passenger side). Separate the connectors from the taillight housing carefully without damaging the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire (driver side) or green wire (passenger side) between the separated connectors. Ensure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side.
Locate a flat, clean, protected surface behind the trunk liner and adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape. Mounting the box in a protected area is critical—failure to do so can cause loss of warranty, product failure, overheating, and potential fire. The box must be kept away from moisture, heat sources, and physical damage.
Between the driver-side taillight housing and the side wall is a factory ground bolt. Use a 10 mm socket to loosen this bolt. Attach the ring terminal of the white ground wire from the converter box to this bolt and re-install the bolt. Ensure that factory grounds have not fallen off the bolt during this process.
Use 12 GA wire or larger for the power lead from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown in the manual, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the provided cable ties.
Yellow wire = Left turn signal; Green wire = Right turn signal; Red wire = Brake signal; Brown wire = Taillight (running lights). These wires connect to the vehicle's taillight connectors. The converter processes these signals and outputs them to the 4-flat trailer connector.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. A fuse holder with a 10-amp fuse is included in the kit. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete. Exceeding the 10-amp rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
Signal circuits (left and right turn): 3.0 amps per side. Tail/Running circuits: 6.0 amps total. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding these ratings can cause loss of warranty, overheating, and potential fire.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll it up and store in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
After connecting the 12-volt power wire to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. The manual states that all steps must be followed to ensure the product functions properly. Once installed, test for proper function before using the converter with a trailer.
Perform periodic inspection of all wires and connections to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections. Check the 4-flat dust cover regularly to ensure it is in place and protecting the connector from corrosion. Secure any loose wires with cable ties as needed.
The installation is rated as Easy. However, you must follow all steps carefully, use proper tools, and ensure the converter box is mounted in a protected area. The manual recommends reading all instructions thoroughly before beginning and notes that proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Before drilling any holes, check for miscellaneous items that may be behind or under any surface to avoid personal injury or property damage. Route the 12 GA power wire to the vehicle battery location, taking care to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components. When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the wire from sharp edges. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before wiring the power wire.
The CURT 56416 is designed for passenger cars with 12-volt negative ground electrical systems. Verify your vehicle has a 12-volt negative ground system in the owner's manual. Contact CURT or the vehicle manufacturer if you are unsure.
Yes. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before beginning installation and reconnect it only after all other steps are complete and the harness has been tested.
A 10-amp maximum fuse is required. The fuse holder and 10-amp fuse are included. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Use 12 GA wire or larger for the power lead from the vehicle battery to the converter. Route it to avoid pinch points and hot or rotating components.
Mount the converter box on a flat, clean, protected surface behind the trunk liner using the provided double-sided tape. A protected location is critical to prevent warranty loss, product failure, overheating, and fire.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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