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| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 2,400 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 16,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 17,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 2,400 LB |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
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1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1988 - 2000 | GMC C2500 | Excluding with dual exhaust, 10" step bumper or cab & chassis |
The 88-00 GMC C2500 Excluding with dual exhaust, 10" step bumper or cab & chassis 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1041 (Part #HBCW1041) fits 1988-2000 GMC C2500 models. The 2000 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
Yes, the 88-00 GMC C2500 Excluding with dual exhaust, 10" step bumper or cab & chassis 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1041 (Part #HBCW1041) is designed to fit the 1988-2000 GMC C2500.
The 88-00 GMC C2500 Excluding with dual exhaust, 10" step bumper or cab & chassis 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1041 (Part #HBCW1041) fits the following vehicles: 1988-2000 GMC C2500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 88-00 GMC C2500 Excluding with dual exhaust, 10" step bumper or cab & chassis 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW1041 (Part #HBCW1041) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, Curt part number 15325 is designed for 1988–2000 Chevrolet and GMC full-size pickups with long or short bed and old body style. Confirm your truck matches these specifications before purchasing.
The hitch weight is 60 lbs.
Yes. The manual requires you to lower and remove the spare tire for ease of installation. The spare tire is reinstalled after the hitch is fully installed and torqued.
Only if your truck has a factory-installed bumper. If equipped, you must remove the 12mm bumper bracket bolts from both sides before raising the hitch into position. If your truck has no factory bumper, bumper removal is not necessary.
No drilling is required. The manual states "NO DRILLING REQUIRED" and the hitch uses existing frame rail holes and slots for mounting.
You will need: a ratchet, a torque wrench, a 12-inch socket extension, a 3/4-inch socket, and an 18mm socket.
The kit includes: 4× 1/2-13 UNC 1-3/4-inch grade 8 carriage bolts (part 10-10272); 8× 1/2-13 UNC 1-1/2-inch grade 8 carriage bolts (part 10-10287); 2× M12×1.75 50mm class 10.9 hex cap screws (part 10-10458); 12× 1/2-13 grade 8 serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062); 2× M12×1.75 class 10 flange nuts (part 20-00176); 2× 1/2-inch conical toothed washers (part 30-00149); 2× 0.250×1.50×2.00-inch square hole spacers (part CM-SP1); 2× 0.250×1.50×3.00-inch square hole spacers (part CM-SP4); and 2× 0.250×1.50×1.50-inch round hole spacers (part CM-SP22).
Torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all 12mm hardware to 79 ft-lbs. This is the final torque specification applied in the last step of installation after all fasteners are loosely secured.
Method A assembles the center section to side plates A and B first (step 2), then raises the complete assembly into position and secures it to the frame rails. Method B installs the side plates A and B into position first (step 3), then raises and secures the receiver tube assembly to the side plates (step 6). Both methods use the same fasteners and torque specifications. The manual does not specify which method is preferred; choose the one that works best for your installation situation.
This depends on whether your truck has a factory bumper. If equipped with a bumper, align the rearmost holes in the side plates with the holes in the frame rail where the 12mm bumper bracket bolts were removed. If no bumper is installed, align the rearmost holes in the side plates with the rearmost slots in the frame rails. The manual notes to use option "C" for trucks without bumpers.
Place a 1/2-13 UNC 1-3/4-inch carriage bolt along with a CM-SP4 spacer (0.250×1.50×3.00 inch) in the forwardmost hole in each frame rail (one each side). Secure with a 1/2-13 hex flange nut. These are tightened to 110 ft-lbs in the final torque step.
Place a 1/2-13 UNC 1-3/4-inch carriage bolt along with a CM-SP1 spacer (0.250×1.50×2.00 inch) in the center hole in each frame rail (one each side). Secure with a 1/2-13 hex flange nut. These are tightened to 110 ft-lbs in the final torque step.
Use 12mm bolts with conical toothed washers (part 30-00149) and the existing weldnuts in the frame rail. These are loosely secured during the initial positioning step and tightened to 79 ft-lbs in the final torque step.
Use 12mm bolts with conical toothed washers (part 30-00149), 12mm flange nuts (part 20-00176), and CM-SP22 spacers (0.250×1.50×1.50 inch). These are loosely secured during the initial positioning step and tightened to 79 ft-lbs in the final torque step.
All fasteners are initially loosely secured during the positioning steps. They are tightened only in the final step after the hitch is centered on the vehicle: torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all 12mm hardware to 79 ft-lbs.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The manual emphasizes this as a critical safety requirement and does not specify a hitch-specific capacity limit independent of the vehicle.
After installation, reinstall the spare tire. Periodically check the hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. This ongoing maintenance is essential for safe operation.
The manual requires periodic inspection to ensure all fasteners are tight and all structural components are sound. No specific interval is stated; inspect regularly as part of routine vehicle maintenance, especially before towing.
The Curt 15325 fits 1988–2000 Chevrolet and GMC full-size pickups with long or short bed and old body style only.
No, no drilling is required. The hitch uses existing frame rail holes and slots.
You need a ratchet, torque wrench, 12-inch socket extension, 3/4-inch socket, and 18mm socket.
Yes, lower and remove the spare tire before installation. Reinstall it after the hitch is fully torqued.
Torque all 1/2-inch hardware to 110 ft-lbs and all 12mm hardware to 79 ft-lbs in the final installation step.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The hitch capacity table in the manual is incomplete.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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