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| Tongue Weight (TW) | 600 LB |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 6,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution (WD) | 10,000 LB |
| Weight Distribution Tongue Weight (WDTW) | 1,000 LB |
| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| Electrical System Type | 2W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | T3 |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
| Ball Diameter | 2 IN |
| 10282 | Yes |
| Color | Black |
| Drop | 2 IN |
| Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) | 7,500 LB |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Shank Diameter | 2 IN |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 750 LB |
| Truckload Dom Pickup Location | Eau Claire, Wi |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-9494Lifetime
1 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1988 - 1999 | Chevrolet C1500 | With roll pan bumper |
Yes, the 88-99 Chevrolet C1500 With roll pan bumper 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW277 (Part #HBCW277) is designed to fit the 1988-1999 Chevrolet C1500.
The 88-99 Chevrolet C1500 With roll pan bumper 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW277 (Part #HBCW277) fits the following vehicles: 1988-1999 Chevrolet C1500. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 88-99 Chevrolet C1500 With roll pan bumper 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW277 (Part #HBCW277) fits 1988-1999 Chevrolet C1500 models. The 1999 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 88-99 Chevrolet C1500 With roll pan bumper 2 CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW277 (Part #HBCW277) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
Yes, part number 13099 is designed for 1963–1996 Ford Trucks (all full size, old body style only). Your 1985 F-150 is within this range and should be compatible.
Yes, part number 13099 is compatible with 1970–2000 Chevrolet & GMC Pickup (full size with 10" step bumper). Your 1995 C1500 is within this range, provided it has a full-size frame and a 10" step bumper.
No. Part number 13099 is designed only for 1963–1996 Ford Trucks (all full size, old body style only). It is not compatible with Ford trucks manufactured after 1996.
The manual specifies compatibility with 1970–2000 Chevrolet & GMC Pickup (full size with 10" step bumper). If your vehicle does not have a 10" step bumper, compatibility is not confirmed by the manual. Contact Curt Manufacturing or a fitment specialist to verify.
The kit includes: 6× 1/2–13 UNC carriage bolts, 1–3/4" long (part 10-10272); 6× 0.250 × 1.50 × 2.00" square hole spacers (CM-SP1); 6× 1/2–13 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00062); 8× 7/16–14 UNC serrated flange nuts (part 20-00103); and 8× 7/16–14 UNC carriage bolts, 1–1/2" long (part 10-10282).
Yes. Step 1 of the installation instructions requires you to remove the spare tire from the vehicle before beginning installation. Note that the spare tire carrier may need to be relocated and/or modified to retain under-vehicle tire stowage after the hitch is installed. On some Ford Pickup models with a 16" spare tire, the spare tire cradle may also require adjustment.
Yes. Step 2 requires you to measure the vehicle frame width. The bracket orientation depends on frame width: for 34" frames, position the side bracket with mounting flanges pointing inboard; for 38" frames, position the bracket with mounting flanges pointing outboard.
Yes, drilling is required. Step 4 requires you to drill six 17/32" diameter holes in the vehicle frame using the slotted holes in the bracket as a guide. The manual recommends starting with a smaller bit and working up to 17/32". In some cases, it may be possible to use existing holes in the frame instead of drilling new ones.
Drill six 17/32" diameter holes in the vehicle frame. The manual recommends starting with a smaller bit and working up to 17/32" to ensure accuracy. Use the slotted holes in the bracket as a guide for hole placement.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb.-ft. and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb.-ft. These torque values are applied after the crosstube assembly is installed into the side brackets and all fasteners are hand-tightened.
No. Step 5 instructs you to install the side bracket mounting fasteners but explicitly states "Do not tighten at this time." The fasteners are tightened to final torque (110 lb.-ft. for 1/2" fasteners) only after the crosstube assembly is installed and all fasteners are in place (Step 7).
The crosstube assembly is attached using 7/16" × 1–1/2" carriage bolts and 7/16" serrated flange nuts (part 20-00103). Eight of each fastener are included in the kit. These fasteners are torqued to 70 lb.-ft. after installation.
The six 0.250 × 1.50 × 2.00" square hole spacers (part CM-SP1) are installed inside the vehicle frame when mounting the side brackets. They are placed between the frame and the bracket mounting fasteners to ensure proper spacing and load distribution.
Do not exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. The hitch has its own capacity ratings (weight-carrying and weight-distribution modes), but the manual emphasizes that the vehicle's limit takes precedence. Consult your vehicle's owner manual for the maximum towing capacity.
Periodically check the receiver hitch to ensure that all fasteners are tight and that all structural components are sound. The manual does not specify an exact interval, but regular inspection before towing is recommended to maintain safety and warranty coverage.
1963–1996 Ford Trucks (all full size, old body style only) and 1970–2000 Chevrolet & GMC Pickup (full size with 10" step bumper).
Yes. You must drill six 17/32" diameter holes in the vehicle frame. The manual recommends starting with a smaller bit and working up to 17/32". Existing frame holes may be reused if available.
Six 1/2–13 UNC carriage bolts, six square hole spacers, six 1/2–13 UNC flange nuts, eight 7/16–14 UNC flange nuts, and eight 7/16–14 UNC carriage bolts.
Torque all 1/2" fasteners to 110 lb.-ft. and all 7/16" fasteners to 70 lb.-ft.
Periodically check all fasteners to ensure they are tight and inspect all structural components for soundness.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Yes, the Curt 55315 custom wiring harness is designed for Chevrolet C/K 1500 pickup trucks. It is also compatible with Chevrolet C/K 2500/3500, GMC C/K 1500, and GMC C/K 2500/3500 pickup trucks. The harness connects to your vehicle's existing taillight wiring harness connector.
Yes, the Curt 55315 custom wiring harness is compatible with GMC C/K 2500/3500 pickup trucks, as well as GMC C/K 1500 models. The installation process is the same across all listed applications.
The Curt 55315 kit includes a custom wiring harness with a yellow wire connector end, a white ground wire with ring terminal, a provided screw for grounding, cable ties for securing loose wires, and a 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
The manual lists no specific tools as required. However, you will need a drill to create a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw if a suitable existing screw with nut is not available on the vehicle frame. A test light or properly wired trailer is needed to test for proper function after installation.
The manual does not specify whether the battery must be disconnected. Check your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for guidance on electrical work preparation.
Locate your vehicle's taillight wiring harness connector. Separate the connector from the taillight housing carefully, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Insert the custom wiring harness end with the yellow wire between the separated connectors. Push both connectors fully together until the locking tabs are in place and secure.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the taillight connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. The area must be free of rust, dirt and paint. If no suitable point exists, drill a 3/32" pilot hole and use the provided screw. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and the provided screw.
Drilling is required only if a suitable existing screw with nut is not available on the vehicle frame near the taillight connector for grounding. If drilling is necessary, you will drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
When in use, route the 4-flat connector to the center of the vehicle and out of the trunk. When not in use, roll up the connector and store it in a convenient, out-of-the-way location inside the trunk. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Test for proper function by using a test light or connecting a properly wired trailer to the 4-flat connector. All steps must be followed to ensure the wiring harness will function properly. If testing reveals issues, review the installation steps to confirm all connections are secure and the ground wire is properly attached.
Do not exceed the product rating or your tow vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the product rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Refer to your vehicle owner's manual or contact the vehicle manufacturer for your specific lamp load rating.
Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion. This should be done as part of the final installation step after all other components are in place.
No, you do not need to remove the taillight housing. You only need to separate the taillight wiring harness connector from the housing by carefully disconnecting it, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. The custom harness is then inserted between the separated connectors.
Yes, if you have a Chevrolet or GMC C/K 1500, 2500, or 3500 pickup truck. The harness connects to your vehicle's existing taillight connector.
A drill may be needed to create a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw if no suitable existing screw is available on the vehicle frame. A test light or properly wired trailer is required to test the installation.
Drilling is only required if no suitable existing screw with nut is available on the vehicle frame near the taillight connector. If drilling is necessary, drill a 3/32" pilot hole. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Do not exceed the product rating or your vehicle's lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Test for proper function using a test light or by connecting a properly wired trailer to the 4-flat connector.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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