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1989 - 1994 Subaru Justy
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| Finish | GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT |
| Main Body Shape | Square |
| Material | Carbon Steel |
| Mount Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Receiver Tube Size | 2 IN |
| Side Application Type Description | Not Applicable |
| Tongue Weight (TW) | 350 LBS |
| Warranty | Limited Lifetime Warranty (One-Year Finish, One-Year Parts) |
| Weight Carrying Capacity (WC) | 3,500 LBS |
| Battery-Powered | Yes |
| Converter Type | Circuit Protected, Powered, Potted |
| Electrical System Type | 3W |
| Finish | N/A |
| Material | Blank |
| Mount Type Description | Blank |
| Output Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Side Application Type Description | Blank |
| T-Connector Location | S1,S2 |
| Tail Light Circuits | 3.0 Amps |
| Turn and Brake Circuits | 6.0 Amps |
| Warranty | One-Year Limited Warranty |
Notes:
Notes:
CURT offers a variety of high-quality trailer hitches and accessories for select vehicle models. Find the perfect fit for your towing needs at TowUniverse.
CURT, a Lippert brand, offers a complete line of towing products and is the leading manufacturer of custom-fit trailer hitches. We offer the broadest selection of custom-fit hitches, and each one is designed, welded, and coated in Wisconsin.
CURT is also a leader in flat towing products, as well as 5th wheel, gooseneck, and weight distribution hitches, ball mounts, electrical components, cargo solutions, and other towing accessories.
For everything from passenger cars and vans to full-size pickups and SUVs, CURT is 'The First Name in Towing Products®.'
Experts available to answer your questions
Call 888-634-94941 compatible vehicles
| Year | Make & Model | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1989 - 1994 | Subaru Justy | — |
Yes, the 89-94 Subaru Justy FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2293 (Part #HBCW2293) is designed to fit the 1989-1994 Subaru Justy.
The 89-94 Subaru Justy FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2293 (Part #HBCW2293) fits the following vehicles: 1989-1994 Subaru Justy. Always verify your specific year, make, and model before ordering.
The 89-94 Subaru Justy FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2293 (Part #HBCW2293) fits 1989-1994 Subaru Justy models. The 1994 model year is the last year covered by this part number. For newer models, check for an updated version.
The 89-94 Subaru Justy FLAT CURT Trailer Hitch + Assure Proportional Brake Controller Kit HBCW2293 (Part #HBCW2293) Refer to the included instructions for installation details. Basic hand tools are typically all you need.
The kit includes: one 30 amp auto-resetting circuit breaker, two #10 ring terminals, two 3/8" ring terminals, two 1/2" ring terminals, three 12-10 gauge butt connectors, 10 feet of 10 ga black/white duplex wire, 20 feet of 10 ga blue cross-linked wire, and eight 8.5" cable ties.
Yes, but with a critical difference: these vehicles require the stop signal wire to be spliced to the light green wire on the turn signal harness connector under the dash, not to the brake pedal switch. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur. All other vehicles connect to the brake pedal switch instead.
You will need: a test light, wire stripper/cutter, crimp tool, and 3/8" box end wrench. The test light is used to identify the cold (switched) side of the brake pedal switch.
Yes. The manual cautions to disconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable before installation. Reconnect it only in the final step after all wiring is complete.
Mount the 30 amp circuit breaker near the tow vehicle's positive battery terminal. This keeps the power wire run as short as possible and protects the circuit.
Use 10 gauge (10 ga) black wire from the duplex wire included in the kit. Strip 3/8" of insulation from each end. Crimp a #10 ring terminal to the end that attaches to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'BAT', and a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal (sized to fit your battery terminal) to the end that attaches to the positive battery terminal.
Feed the 10 ga duplex wire from the brake controller in the cockpit through the firewall into the engine compartment toward the battery. Cut to length as needed. At the battery end, crimp a 3/8" or 1/2" ring terminal to the white wire and a #10 ring terminal to the black wire. Attach the black wire to the circuit breaker stud labeled 'AUX' and tighten the nut with a 3/8" box end wrench.
When passing the duplex wire through the firewall into the engine compartment, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to insulate and protect the wire. The same protection applies when passing the blue cross-linked wire through any sheet metal at the rear of the vehicle.
In the cockpit, attach the black duplex wire to the brake controller's battery wire (typically black) and the white duplex wire to the brake controller's ground wire (typically white). Use either one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.
Locate the brake pedal switch on the back side of the vehicle's brake pedal. Use a test light or volt meter to identify the 'cold' or switched side—this terminal will only show power when the brake pedal is depressed. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the cold side of the switch using a wire tap.
Locate the semi-circle turn signal harness connector on the steering column under the dash. It has two rows of wires: a row of four and a row of seven. Attach the stop signal wire (typically red) from the brake controller to the light green wire using a wire tap. Do NOT connect to the red wire with green stripe, as serious damage may occur.
Feed the 10 ga blue cross-linked wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector at the rear of the vehicle, taking up any slack in the wire. When passing through any sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a new grommet, or fill the hole with silicone rubber to protect the wire.
Attach the blue cross-linked wire to the brake controller's electric brake wire (typically blue) using one of the supplied yellow butt connectors or by soldering and insulating with heat shrink tubing. At the rear of the vehicle, trim any loose blue wire and attach it to the trailer connector's electric brake terminal. Refer to the trailer connector's wiring diagram for the correct terminal location.
Secure any loose wires with the cable ties provided. Connect the black power wire from the circuit breaker to the positive side of the battery. Connect the white ground wire from the brake controller to the negative side of the battery. Finally, reconnect the tow vehicle's negative battery cable to the battery.
The circuit breaker is 30 amps and auto-resetting. It must be mounted near the positive battery terminal and connected directly to the positive battery terminal via the included black 10 gauge wire.
Use a 3/8" box end wrench to tighten the nuts on the circuit breaker studs labeled 'BAT' and 'AUX'.
The kit includes 10 feet of 10 gauge black/white duplex wire for the battery and brake controller connections, and 20 feet of 10 gauge blue cross-linked wire for the electric brake signal to the trailer connector.
Black wire connects to the positive battery and circuit breaker. White wire connects to the brake controller ground and negative battery. Red wire is the stop signal wire from the brake controller. Blue wire is the electric brake signal wire. The manual notes these are 'typically' these colours but recommends confirming with your brake controller documentation.
Yes. You can solder the leads together and insulate with heat shrink tubing as an alternative to using the supplied yellow butt connectors. This applies to connections between the duplex wire and the brake controller wires, and between the blue cross-linked wire and the brake controller.
The black power wire must connect directly to the positive battery terminal via the 30 amp circuit breaker. Connecting to the fuse panel or any other accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The circuit breaker protects the circuit and must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness. Serious damage may occur. Connect only to the light green wire. Also, do not connect to the brake pedal switch on these vehicles; use the turn signal harness instead.
The kit is universal but requires an existing trailer connector and brake controller. 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS use a different stop signal connection (turn signal harness instead of brake pedal switch). Consult your brake controller documentation for compatibility.
No drilling is required. The kit connects to existing components: the battery, brake controller, brake pedal switch (or turn signal harness on 1989-1991 Ford E & F-Series with ABS), and trailer connector.
Do NOT connect the stop signal wire to the red wire with green stripe on the turn signal harness—serious damage may occur. Connect to the light green wire instead, and do not use the brake pedal switch.
Connecting to the fuse panel or accessory wiring may damage vehicle wiring and cause trailer brake failure. The 30 amp circuit breaker must be the only protection between the battery and the brake control system.
Part 56444 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. The manual does not specify individual vehicle models or years. Confirm your vehicle has a 12 volt negative ground system before purchasing. Contact Curt Manufacturing or your vehicle manufacturer if you are unsure of your vehicle's electrical system type.
Signal circuits are rated at 6.0 amps per side. Tail and running circuits are rated at 3.0 amps total. The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower, as exceeding the rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire.
Required tools are: ratchet, cutting tool, 10mm socket, wire crimper, socket extension, wire stripper, Phillips screwdriver, trim panel removal tool, and electrical tape. Proper tools will improve the quality of installation and reduce the time required.
Yes. Locate the vehicle's battery in the engine compartment on the driver side and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Fasten this wire down and away from the battery while completing the installation. Reconnect the negative battery terminal after all other installation steps are complete.
The primary wiring locations are S1 (behind driver side taillight housing) and S2 (behind passenger side taillight housing). Additional optional locations include S3–S10 behind rear access panels, bumpers, and under the rear floor panel. The manual provides a diagram showing all ten possible wiring locations on a representative vehicle.
Open the trunk. Using a Phillips screwdriver, loosen and remove the two taillight trim fasteners and remove the trim piece. Using a Phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket, remove the taillight fasteners. Remove the taillight by pulling straight rearward. Locate the vehicle taillight wiring connectors, which will be similar to those on the new converter product. Separate the connectors from the taillight housing, taking care not to damage the locking tabs. Repeat on the other side of the vehicle.
Fishwiring is a method to push or pull an electrical wire through a blind hole. Insert a stiff wire (such as a cut-up wire hanger, rope or string) through the blind hole and locate it on the other side. Use tape to secure the harness to the fish wire and pull back up. If the fish wire or harness gets hung up, you may need to push back down, wiggle it around or twist the wire to loosen it. Make sure the fish wire is long enough to stick out on the other side.
On the driver side, route the fishwire down between the body and bumper cover. From under the vehicle, locate and attach the fishwire to the housing with the yellow wire. Pull the wire back up and attach it to the factory harness. Make sure the connectors are fully inserted with locking tabs in place. Repeat on the passenger side with the green wire.
Locate a suitable grounding point near the connector, such as an existing screw with nut in the vehicle frame. If no suitable existing point is available, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the provided screw. The area should be free of rust, dirt and paint. Secure the white ground wire using the ring terminal and provided screw. Before drilling, check for miscellaneous items that may be hidden behind or under any surface to avoid damage and personal injury.
Route the green wire along the backside of the bumper cover. Use cable ties as needed to secure the routed wiring. Route the black power wire from the vehicle battery as shown on the provided Powered Converter Lead Instruction Sheet. Route the 4-flat to the trailer hitch and mount in an easy-to-access location. Secure any loose wires with the provided cable ties.
Locate a flat spot inside the vehicle near the yellow wire. Adhere the black converter box using the provided double-sided tape.
Use 12 GA wire or larger for the power lead to the vehicle battery. The black wire connects to the positive battery (+) terminal. The white ground wire with a ring terminal connects to the vehicle body using the provided screw (drill a 3/32" hole if necessary). A fuse holder with 10 amp fuse maximum must be installed in the power circuit; install the fuse after all other steps are complete.
Green = Right turn; Red = Brake; Yellow = Left turn; Brown = Taillight. These colors correspond to the standard trailer lighting functions.
When passing the power wire through sheet metal, use an existing grommet, add a grommet, or use silicone to protect the power wire from sharp edges. Secure the power wire to the vehicle chassis using the cable ties provided.
The battery connection must be fuse-protected with a 10-amp maximum fuse. Exceeding this rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Install the fuse after all other installation steps are complete.
Once the 12 volt power wire is connected to the harness, verify that the harness is functioning by attaching the battery and testing with a test light, 4-flat tester, or a functioning trailer. Install the provided 4-flat dust cover to help prevent corrosion.
Periodic inspection of all wires and connections should be performed to ensure there is no visible damage or loose connections.
The Curt 56444 is designed for SUVs and vans with 12 volt negative ground electrical systems. Confirm your vehicle meets these requirements before purchasing.
You will need a ratchet, 10mm socket, socket extension, Phillips screwdriver, trim panel removal tool, wire crimper, wire stripper, cutting tool, and electrical tape.
Drilling is required only if no suitable existing grounding point is available. If needed, drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the ground wire screw. Always check for hidden items before drilling.
Exceeding the product rating or tow vehicle lamp load rating can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. Do not exceed 6.0 amps per signal circuit side or 3.0 amps total for tail and running circuits.
The CURT 13494 is designed for Subaru Outback Wilderness only. The manual does not specify which model years are compatible. Contact CURT product support at 877-287-8634 or check curtmfg.com to confirm your vehicle's model year before purchasing.
The CURT 13494 has a gross trailer weight (GTW) capacity of 3,500 lbs. and a tongue weight (TW) capacity of 350 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Subaru Outback Wilderness only. Confirm your model year with CURT product support at 877-287-8634 before purchasing.
Gross trailer weight: 3,500 lbs. Tongue weight: 350 lbs. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Required tools: 11/16", 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets; socket extension (6"); ratchet; torque wrench; tape measure; masking tape; safety glasses; aviation shears; and fishwire (7/16", 2 qty included). For a full tools reference guide, visit curtmfg.com/trailer-hitch-installation.
You will need 11/16", 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets, plus a 6" socket extension, ratchet, and torque wrench.
The kit includes: 2 carriage bolts (7/16"-14 x 1-1/4", grade 8); 4 hex bolts (M10 x 1.25 – 35); 2 serrated-flange nuts (7/16" – 14); 4 conical-toothed washers (3/8"); and 2 fishwire tools (7/16").
Yes. Installation requires removal of the bumper cover (Step 2) and bumper beam (Step 3). Both are reinstalled after the hitch is mounted and the bumper fascia is trimmed (Steps 5–7). The bumper cover has electrical connectors that must be disconnected during removal.
No drilling is required. However, the installation requires partial removal and trimming of the underbody panel and trimming of the bumper fascia using the trim diagram provided in Step 7.
Yes. Step 7 requires trimming the bumper fascia using the trim diagram provided. The underbody panel also requires partial removal and trimming.
If your vehicle has mud flaps, they must be removed first using an 8mm socket to remove two bolts and a flathead screwdriver to remove two push fasteners. Save them for reinstallation in Step 7.
1. Remove seven plastic fasteners from bumper cover bottom and one from each wheel well (Step 1). 2. Remove bumper cover and disconnect electrical connectors (Step 2). 3. Remove four bolts and two nuts from bumper beam using 17mm and 14mm sockets; save nuts (Step 3). 4. Raise hitch into position, slide tabs into frame rail, and fishwire carriage bolts through side plate and frame rail; secure with serrated-flange nuts (Step 4). 5. Place bumper beam over hitch and secure with saved nuts; loosely install M10 bolts and conical-toothed washers (Step 5). 6. Torque all hardware (Step 6). 7. Trim bumper fascia and reinstall bumper cover (Step 7).
Insert the coiled end of the fishwire through the hitch mounting hole in the vehicle frame rail and out the access hole. Pass the coiled end through the spacer and thread the bolt into the coil. Kink the wire to keep the spacer separate from the bolt. Pull the fishwire, spacer, and bolt through the frame and out the mounting hole. Use the fishwire to guide the hitch during mounting and prevent loss of the bolt or spacer inside the frame rail.
Leave the M10 bolts and conical-toothed washers loose during Step 5. Tighten all hardware to final torque specifications only in Step 6, after the bumper beam is positioned over the hitch.
Torque all M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs and all 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench to ensure proper tightening and prevent damage to the product or vehicle.
M10 hardware: 45 ft-lbs. 7/16" hardware: 59 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench for proper installation.
The conical-toothed washers are installed with the hex bolts on the bumper beam. The diagram on page 2 shows the washer orientation relative to the vehicle frame and hitch side plate. The washers should be positioned between the hex bolt head and the bumper beam surface.
Yes. Save all fasteners removed during installation for reinstallation: the seven plastic fasteners from the bumper cover bottom and one from each wheel well (Step 1), the two nuts from the bumper beam (Step 3), and the two bolts and two push fasteners from mud flaps if present (Step 1 note). All are reinstalled in Step 7.
Wear safety glasses at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity. Proper tools will improve installation quality and reduce time required. Read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.
Safety glasses must be worn at all times during installation. Never exceed your vehicle manufacturer's recommended towing capacity.
Periodic inspection of the trailer hitch should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure. Check that all bolts and nuts are properly torqued to the specified values (M10 hardware to 45 ft-lbs and 7/16" hardware to 59 ft-lbs).
Periodic inspection should be performed to ensure all mounting hardware remains tight and structural components are secure.
The installation difficulty level is Difficult. Installation difficulty levels are based on time and effort involved and may vary depending on the installer's level of expertise, condition of the vehicle, and availability of proper tools and equipment.
Visit www.curtmfg.com for a full-color copy of the installation manual, as well as helpful videos, guides, and more. For product support, call 877-287-8634.
To register your purchase, get copies of product warranties, or provide feedback, visit warranty.curtgroup.com/surveys. CURT stands behind its products with industry-leading warranties.
The 4-way flat electrical adapter converts a vehicle's 4-way flat trailer connector to other trailer connector types (6-way round, 7-way RV blade, or dual 4-way flat). This allows you to tow trailers with different connector styles. Single-output models (57184, 57183, 57185, 57626, 57676) convert to one connector type; dual-output models (57604, 57624, 57672, 57674, 57102) provide two different connector outputs simultaneously.
Yes. Your vehicle must be equipped with a 4-way flat trailer connector. If your vehicle does not have one, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat trailer connector before installing this adapter.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 7-way RV blade. The difference is that 57185 includes a mounting bracket, while 57184 does not.
Both convert a 4-way flat connector to a 6-way round. The difference is that 57626 includes a mounting bracket, while 57183 does not.
Curt offers three dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 7-way RV blade output: part numbers 57672, 57674, and 57102. All three include a mounting bracket.
Curt offers two dual-output models that provide both a 4-way flat and a 6-way round output: part numbers 57604 and 57624. Both include a mounting bracket.
You will need: a 1/8" drill bit, drill, Phillips screwdriver, wire stripper, cutting tool, terminal crimpers, and a test light. The manual also lists three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") as required, though these are not included with the product.
No. The three self-tapping screws (#10 - 1/2") used to attach the mounting bracket are not included and must be purchased separately.
Mount the combination harness in a location on the tow vehicle that is within reach of the trailer's wiring harness and near the center of the vehicle. The mounting bracket (if included) should be attached to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface.
Yes. You must drill two 1/8" holes: one for the grounding point and one (or more) for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface to avoid damage.
No. You must never attach the mounting bracket directly to the hitch by cutting, welding or drilling into the hitch. Mount it to the vehicle's bumper or other suitable surface instead.
The adapter uses four wires: Yellow (auxiliary or back-up lights), Blue (electric brakes), Black (positive power with appropriate inline fuse), and White (ground). All wires except black and white must be connected using 12 gauge (minimum) wire and butt connectors to the appropriate vehicle functions.
The white wire is the ground connection. It must be attached with a ring terminal to a 1/8" hole drilled in a suitable grounding point on the vehicle using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw. This ground connection is required for the harness to work properly. The white wire on the vehicle's 4-way flat connector does not support the ground (-) functions of the combination harness.
Yes. The black wire (positive power) must be connected with an appropriate inline fuse. The manual does not specify the fuse amperage rating.
Use 12 gauge (minimum) wire for all connections. The manual specifies this minimum gauge for the remaining wires (yellow, blue, and black) when connecting to appropriate vehicle functions.
Failing to properly ground the product can cause loss of warranty, overheating and potential fire. The white wire must be securely attached to a clean grounding point using a #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screw in a 1/8" hole. The area must be clean of dirt, debris or undercoating.
Before drilling, you must check for brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and any other components that may be hidden behind or under the surface. Drilling into these components can cause damage and personal injury.
Do not exceed the product rating or the tow vehicle lamp load rating, whichever is lower. Exceeding either rating can cause damage or unsafe operation.
Confirm proper function with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer. This verifies that all connections are working correctly before towing.
Secure any loose wires using cable ties or equivalent product to prevent them from moving, catching on components, or becoming damaged.
Your vehicle must have a 4-way flat trailer connector. If it does not, you will need to install a custom wiring harness or other 4-way flat connector first. Check the part number table to confirm the adapter converts to the connector type you need.
You must purchase three #10 - 1/2" self-tapping screws for the mounting bracket. You will also need an appropriate inline fuse for the black (positive power) wire; the manual does not specify the amperage.
Yes, you must drill two 1/8" holes: one for grounding and one for the mounting bracket. Before drilling, check for brake lines, fuel lines and wiring behind the surface. Never drill into the hitch.
Yellow = auxiliary/back-up lights; Blue = electric brakes; Black = positive power (needs inline fuse); White = ground (must be properly grounded or warranty is void and fire risk exists). Use 12 gauge minimum wire and butt connectors.
Proper grounding of the white wire is critical. Failing to ground it properly can cause loss of warranty, overheating and fire. The grounding point must be clean of dirt, debris and undercoating.
Test with a test light or by using a properly functioning trailer to confirm all connections work. Secure loose wires with cable ties.
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